Co2 Laser Lens

... supplementary close-up lens of the users choice. ZnSe CO2 laser focus lens are commonly...

Looking at those images, you seriously need to add a macro lens (ebay/Ali ZnSe CO2 Laser lens).

... are disagreeing with the fundamental (Laser) Physics not me! Power is... the scope of CO2 Laser Cutter/Engravers. High end research Laser Optics are not... beam on a 100W Laser entering the final Lens is somewhere around 16-20mm... then goes through a single lens generally to focus it to...

..., 50W CO2. Many years old, bare-bones software (Corel Files for laser marking layouts..., .etc. If you have a Laser Engraver with the following attributes, ... engraving spot on parts? The laser recognizes the part, then "box-targets" ... to part. 3) Laser type and material supported? Our bare bones CO2 won't touch copper... sort of the opposite: The laser module and lens is suspended in a set ...

Hi all. Someone asked for more progress pics so I thought I would post. I’ve gotten 3 laser treatments now (just got my third 6 days ago) and am posting pics from my 2nd treatment. So far I think I got pretty good progress in the temples and it looks a lot smoother. The second laser was in December so it’s been a while. The first pic is from 13 days post 2nd laser and the next 2 are 2.5 months post laser. I tried to get same lighting as best as possible but I think there is improvement. This is all with fractional co2 laser. I’ll also post again pictures of my skin (last 3 photos) of my temples showing how deep they were. This was about 4-5 years ago. It’s the same bedroom I am taking the pictures in. Hope this was helpful submitted by /u/charleslevi67 to r/AcneScars [link] [comments]

Hi all, I have an eyewear manufacturing business and we currently use an xtool P2 to do the majority of our engraving for logos and text. It works well but is much larger than we need and lacks a red dot guide laser so even with the close view camera we run into some placement issues due to the fisheye effect of the lens. So does anybody have any recommendations for a small footprint laser that will easily engrave small text and logos on a material that is similar to acrylic? Accurate, easy, and repeatable placement on a surface that is as small as 6mm tall would be the main thing we are looking for. I'm currently looking at a K40+ or the Beamo but I'm unsure if I'm missing other options that would be better. TIA! submitted by /u/Mediocre_Cut_4120 to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

CO2 laser cuts at an angle to one side along the Y axis. I cleaned the lens on the laser head, cleaned the mirrors, adjusted all the mirrors and the same thing happened again. Also adjusted the tube and the laser head is at a 90 degree angle. What could be the problem? I forgot to mention that when I removed the lens from the laser head to clean it, the lens was with the protruding part facing down. It was the first time I cleaned the lens. When they set it up at the factory in China (it's a Chinese CO2 laser) they set it up like that, facing down. Maybe the lens is damaged? Thanks in advance. Btw although it appears to be along the X axis in the photo, I intentionally photographed the piece that way so that the bevel can be seen, otherwise it is along the Y axis. submitted by /u/unknown_riste to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

Our CO2 laser cutter (60w Chinese red and black) works with reasonable power when we start it up and begin working, but after just 15-20 minutes, it loses significant power. When we start, it will cut 3mm acrylic at 15 mm/s (60-80% power), but this quickly drops to below 5 mm/s (80% power). We have replaced the tube without it solving the problem. There are new mirrors and a new lens in the machine. We can see that the water temperature stays below 20 degrees. We suspect it's the power supply, but what do you think? submitted by /u/Better-Activity-811 to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

Hey guys, I am currently using a Haotian HT-40 CO2 galvo laser with 110mm lens. I am using it to do intricate engraving and cutting on a 300gsm cardstock. Due to the bed size limitation using the 110mm lens, i am wasting alot of time cutting the A4 cardstock into suitable size and and load/unloading it. Ideally i would like to somehow keep the laser dot size, ability to do intricate engraving but somehow upgrade the bigger bed size to something like 300x300mm. My machine already comes with 8x expander and according to the supplier, this setup is the best i will get. I was wondering if it was possible to somehow swap out the scan head/expander/lens in order to achieve this? If not, i'm happy to seek an alternative laser unit that could achieve this. Let me know! Thanks, submitted by /u/Danj9292 to r/Laserengraving [link] [comments]

Hey guys, I am currently using a Haotian HT-40 CO2 galvo laser with 110mm lens. I am using it to do intricate engraving and cutting on a 300gsm cardstock. Due to the bed size limitation using the 110mm lens, i am wasting alot of time cutting the A4 cardstock into suitable size and and load/unloading it. Ideally i would like to somehow keep the laser dot size, ability to do intricate engraving but somehow upgrade the bigger bed size to something like 300x300mm. My machine already comes with 8x expander and according to the supplier, this setup is the best i will get. I was wondering if it was possible to somehow swap out the scan head/expander/lens in order to achieve this? If not, i'm happy to seek an alternative laser unit that could achieve this. Let me know! Thanks, submitted by /u/Danj9292 to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

I have been having issues with cut and engraving quality with my laser. Its only about 5 months old and was purchased from monport themselves. I have not had any issues until now. Im at my Witt’s end with the “tech support” they have not been much help at all. Anyways, my dumbass( and yes i called myself a dumbass) was engraving my bussiness logo on the pack of a batch of wood mosaics( they are about 2 inches in depth i think thats the correct wording… maybe) and i forgot to adjust the bed andgive it more space between the laser and the art work. So my laser head bumped this slightly heavy solid wood piece of art while trying to engrave on it. The gantry was actingall wacky for a bit but i belvive i have that fixed. However i cannot get it the laser to cuts it the same quality on side farthest from the computer screen thing. If its on the side of the computer screen it works beautifully but i need the whole laser bed to be used for some things. Im just wondering if its time for purchase a new lens? Even tho i have thoroughly inspected and cleansed said lens and all of my mirrors as well. I need help in any form at this point before i give up. Ive gone a month without it and the holidays are quickly approaching and The amount of custom acrylic names i have to cut is growing even quicker. I have alligned my laser probably like 3 or 4 times at this point… cleaned mirrors and lenses… twice. submitted by /u/Long-Mix-7333 to r/Laserengraving [link] [comments]

It’s an old Synrad that I picked up for $25. The electronics look cosmetically good, but the output coupler (first two pictures) seems to be damaged. I tried cleaning it with lens tissue and isopropyl alcohol but it made no difference, so I assume the lens itself or the coating on it is damaged. I’m guessing that, assuming the laser otherwise works, turning it on would just cause further damage? It’s a bit unusual compared to similar Synrad models in that all the power and driver electronics are inside the laser, and you just plug it into 120v AC to run it. See attached pictures. If anyone has any thoughts about interesting or useful things that I could do with this hardware then I’d love to read them. I could probably replace the lens on the output coupler, but then I think I’d have to regas the laser and realign the output coupler and I’m not sure if all of that would be worth the effort. I’d also be interested if anyone knows the details of the driving electronics. I think that it’s RF pumped with two identical circuits (power goes down 50% if one of them fails) at about 45 MHz, but I’m not sure what the voltage is. submitted by /u/bregav to r/lasers [link] [comments]

Hi everyone. A few months ago, I bought my first CO2 laser, a 100W from VEVOR. NOW I know it might not have been the best choice, but it does cut, and it could still be useful for my business, though with some reservations... The problem is that right from the start, the cuts were angled (always in the same direction) only along the Y-axis. Three friends of mine (also CO2 laser owners) and I spent way too much time trying to figure out what the problem was. After a lot of tinkering, I ended up repositioning the tube, the first mirror, the second mirror, and even the laser head. Each time, the pulse hit the center of the mirrors perfectly, even at the four corners, and I never had trouble achieving that. I retensioned the belts, leveled the bed by adding spacers here and there, and even replaced the stock lens with a new Cloudray US one because the original was terrible. The only thing left to replace are the mirrors. After countless complaints, VEVOR also sent me a new laser head, since the tube on the stock head was welded at an angle to the left (see picture), exactly the direction of the beam! The replacement part isn’t any better, and the beam still doesn’t fall perfectly perpendicular to the work surface. At this point, I suspect a manufacturing defect in that component. Can anyone help me out or give me some advice? Right now, I can cut 3mm and 5mm materials, but the angled cut is very noticeable on 5mm. What I really want to understand is how to correctly position the tube BEFORE aligning all the mirrors. I’ve watched dozens of videos, but none explain how to calibrate the machine completely from scratch, including the tube and mirror brackets. PS: I even bought a new laser head from Cloudray with the money VEVOR gave me (lol). It’s perfect and high-quality, but it tilts too far forward toward me, so the second mirror can’t hit the center of the lens. I noticed that the second mirror from the same model as the new head is wider, so that might solve the issue, but there’s no way to mount it on my VEVOR’s carriage because the screw spacing is 30mm, while my second mirror’s bracket has 21mm between the screws :\ Thanks to anyone willing to take the time to help me! https://preview.redd.it/365e9bs0rwvf1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be3144e1f0fd42c1cde668430c4c83f0c8508772 submitted by /u/stickyshell to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

Brand new to laser engravers so please cut me a little slack with troubleshooting: Just bought a 2nd hand 50w Co2 laser engraver and the seller did not speak any english so I've had to figure it out on my own. I have hooked up a compressor to the air line and water pump to the water inlet, both appear to be working (definitely air coming from nozzle and water returning to basin). I changed the settings on the engraver to allow 99.9% power and cleaned the mirrors and lens. I've also done a ramp test (several times) and dialed in focal distance (about 16mm from end of nozzle). I go into Lightburn and try cutting out a letter with 100% power at 10mm/s and it will not fully puncture the 1/4" birch I had laying around. Tried again at 2mm/s, almost all the way through but starting to just char the wood. When I press pulse, even just barely, it goes right through. Feels like I'm missing a setting somewhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated. submitted by /u/Spiritual_Emu8697 to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

Hi all, I just purchased and received a brand new 55W CO2 laser the OMTech Polar Lite. I'm trying to dial in the speed and power. Right now just with some ~3mm plywood. I have used the power generator from o2creative ( https://www.o2creative.co.nz/laser/lightburn_basic_generator.php ) to test combinations. My best single-pass result seems to be around 12.5mm/s with 70% power. To me that feels a little high especially considering when looking around the internet in general, and also on OMTech's site ( https://omtech.com/blogs/knowledge/material-settings-for-laser-engravers ) for suggested material settings. The omtech site is claiming for 1/8in (basically 3mm) wood we should be able to do 12mm/s @ 25%. What are y'alls thoughts about 12.5 @ 70% power...does that seem "off" to any of you...or does that seem about right? Edit: Jan 11 2026. A few weeks ago I noticed that the laser wasn't hitting the focal lense right in the middle. So I tinker Ed around with alignment and accuracy (definitely was a pain on the polar kite for sure). I also noticed the focal lens seemed to have a spot on it from the laser and replaced it with a new one. After doing those things I'm cutting fine. I can do 1/8 clear acrylic easily and within the range of speed/power that is suggested. I think I might be using 3-5% more than the suggested power (which I think is 25%). And I can also cut 1/4" clear acrylic as well with more power and slower speed (around the suggested settings). Also cutting the wood is fine now too. submitted by /u/Bag06a to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

I've been using a cheap 20w diode laser for about 18 months now for a micro business. After several 100 customer jobs later and 1000's of items cut, the laser has had almost no trouble and only minimal maintenance. I've not even had to change the lens / cover yet or any of the other parts of the machine. However, I think I've been lucky or just careful as I hear a lot of people having worse situations with the same laser. At some point I'll be moving to a CO2 laser to cut acrylic, engrave metal, more power for faster and thicker cuts, slightly larger bed and other bells and whistles. However, how will maintenance change? Is it more frequent?, more expensive? Not just the laser itself, but chillers and other CO2 specifics. Thanks. submitted by /u/ziplock9000 to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

My Hurricane is having some consistency issues and I cannot figure out what's going on. In the 3rd image, you can see that the line engraving is both really weak (even after multiple passes) and the burn strengths are inconsistent. My settings are in the first image. I ran a successful Materials Test (second image). I've had no problems engraving topography lines and other projects recently, but today the Hurricane is being super temperamental. - I have checked the alignment of all lenses - I cleaned the lenses - I checked to make sure the focusing lens was on the correct way up (lesson learned from last month's fiasco) - I auto focus each time I introduce a new test piece of wood. Would love help please!! This is for a customer order that needs to go out ASAP, and I'm at a loss as to what to troubleshoot next. submitted by /u/WhenAreWeEating to r/Laserengraving [link] [comments]

I'm having a weird issue with my CO2 laser cutter (Ruida 644XS) while engraving using LightBurn. The output doesn't match my design, and the engravings look wobbly/distorted. Straight lines come out shaky, and detailed engravings don’t look as sharp as they should. My Settings Material: Acrylic (5mm) Speed: 200 mm/s (also tested at 500 mm/s, same issue) Power: 1% Lens: Stock focus lens What I've Noticed The design shifts slightly from what I see in LightBurn. When I run the job at higher speeds (500 mm/s), the power output seems lower and the engraving looks faded or weak even though the power is the same. At 200 mm/s, the engraving looks darker and deeper, but it still has the wobbling issue. I engraved two Kali Linux logos, one at 200 mm/s and one at 500 mm/s—I've attached a photo. You can clearly see the difference in engraving depth and quality. submitted by /u/darthvinayak to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

Hello everyone, I have a real problem. Please, I need help. When my 50W laser tube broke on my Vevor machine, there was a short circuit that blew a resistor corresponding to an X sensor on the RUIDA 644XS motherboard. After replacing the tube with the same brand, as well as the resistor that had burned out, I tried to cut. When I manually move the head (to the center, for example) on the machine using the arrows and then command it to return to its origin, it returns to actuating the tube, causing an engraving on my material. This is really not normal. When I start engraving or cutting a test grid or a simple circle, I get the same result: tracing the path of the laser head's movement. In other words, I feel like the laser never really shuts off when the lens moves. Someone told me to access the Lightburn console and type $$ to access all the parameters, then search for the value 32 (if $32 = 0), write $32 = 1. But unfortunately, I can't find this famous value 32 because I can't write in the licensed Lightburn console. The brand tells me that my new tube may be defective and is offering me a replacement. Okay, maybe good, but I have to wait two months now because it's out of stock. What do you think? https://preview.redd.it/p6qyva98i1re1.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=40fa3c148295344860c438f548133c38246b0a3a https://preview.redd.it/702v8b98i1re1.jpg?width=792&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bd9322ec7fe69ba50f3cd4648203471b92ab4740 https://preview.redd.it/6793ga98i1re1.jpg?width=1204&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6dd9c293e0fa18365275a9be8d9b374eb44bc152 https://preview.redd.it/l7aqvb98i1re1.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1f88cacabe7490f6e93ab92f9979c5834c6dced9 Hello everyone, I have a real problem. Please, I need help. When my 50W laser tube broke on my Vevor machine, there was a short circuit that blew a resistor corresponding to an X sensor on the RUIDA 644XS motherboard. After replacing the tube with the same brand, as well as the resistor that had burned out, I tried to cut. When I manually move the head (to the center, for example) on the machine using the arrows and then command it to return to its origin, it returns to actuating the tube, causing an engraving on my material. This is really not normal. When I start engraving or cutting a test grid or a simple circle, I get the same result: tracing the path of the laser head's movement. In other words, I feel like the laser never really shuts off when the lens moves. Someone told me to access the Lightburn console and type $$ to access all the parameters, then search for the value 32 (if $32 = 0), write $32 = 1. But unfortunately, I can't find this famous value 32 because I can't write in the licensed Lightburn console. The brand Vevor tells me that my new tube may be defective and is offering me a replacement. Okay, maybe good, but I have to wait two months now because it's out of stock. What do you think? submitted by /u/Sure_Water8221 to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

I just cleaned my lens for the first time and after putting it all back together and running my first cut (1/4” wood) there are a lot of flames. Any advice? I’ve taken it apart and put it back together several times trying to fix it, but no luck. 155W 2” lens submitted by /u/Amanda4524 to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

Hi you all. I have a Co 2 laser for a while and i can not get it propperly aligned. Please help and advice wanted. I align the first mirror exacly and burn point is spot on. when i align the second mirror wth the X gantry at the lowest point (furthest from laser) i can get it spot on. when i move the X gantry to the highest point (closest to laser tube) it is off by 5-6mm. Picture 3 shows how the gantry is connected to the servo with GT2 timing belts. it shoud not be possible to get that out of aligment because the gt2 pullys are connected with an axle. https://preview.redd.it/3w0zre3kbphe1.png?width=1453&format=png&auto=webp&s=f3a81e6da6fa807376ff7a0b2aea97412ae466c8 https://preview.redd.it/8toxbzokbphe1.png?width=1453&format=png&auto=webp&s=102bb0b37d8c7ec035404c388f83305d666844cb https://preview.redd.it/0ogeljf3dphe1.png?width=1453&format=png&auto=webp&s=e3242990f9447c91e94a5834c548ccd36c300a9e https://preview.redd.it/45na0gt4fphe1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0489f6caf8cd601d202e268a828e6c076dbf6188 submitted by /u/Erik0013443433 to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

For a project I'm working on I need a small 10mm diameter circular lens with a focal length of around 70cm, which luckily happens to be about the same as a pair of 1.5 diopter reading glasses. So I have the lens from a pair of glasses, it's only 1.5mm thick and made of acrylic. I thought it would be pretty easy to cut out a smaller circular lens from its center using a CO2 laser, but the technician who is in charge of the laser cutter I have access to refuses to let me try. He says that it's too risky as the lens could cause the laser beam to refocus or deviate unpredictably, and also that the uneven surface of the lens will prevent the laser from cutting effectively. This lens is only very slightly convex and as it's so thin (see image) that I really can't believe that the 40W laser would have any trouble cutting through it. I also don't think it will cause the beam to 'refocus', at most it will cause the beam to deviate slightly. I am new to laser cutting so I was hoping to get some thoughts on whether you think what I want to do is achievable or if it actually is risky. https://preview.redd.it/qorx6wlm7tce1.png?width=1098&format=png&auto=webp&s=ac8cd85cb5f998c2ff2785e6748ff8ee23a2c1c3 submitted by /u/alexxht to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

Hey eveyryone I'm planning to get my first CO2 laser cutter (90x60cm working area) supplement my current imprint and sublimation e-commerce business and could use some experienced input on power and lens selection. Main Usage: Cutting plywood, MDF and cast acrylic (3-8mm thickness) Engraving fairly detailed designs (floral patterns, mandalas, thin text) No photo engraving or paper/cardboard work Clean edge quality cut is a priority I'm torn between 80W and 100W tubes. My main concern is whether 100W might be overkill or potentially compromise the fine detail work, especially for the intricate patterns. Would love to hear from those who work with similar materials and designs - is it possible to tune the 100W laser to do such work. Regarding optics, the machine comes standard with a 2.5" lens. I'm considering: Switching to only using a 2" lens for better engraving performance (that might affect cutting thicker 8mm material) Keeping the 2.5" for cutting and adding a 1.5" lens + holder for detailed engraving Thanks in advance for your insight and all the best in 2025! submitted by /u/prezzz to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

I know that a typical F-theta lens is composed of multiple lens bundles. However, I found out that the f-theta lens used in CO2 lasers is often composed of only a single yellow (ZnSe?) lens. Is it okay to understand that this is because the DOF (Depth of Field) of CO2 lasers is long, so even if a single lens is used instead of a lens bundle, the processing results at the center and the periphery are not significantly different? submitted by /u/SG_Luncheon to r/Optics [link] [comments]

First post here, I got a used Chinese blue and white CO2 80W laser, and tried to cut 1/8 plywood, I can cut it through with 25% power, 8mm/sec, but not higher speed than that, I tried 10mm/sec, 100% power with no luck. I cleaned mirror and lens seems helped a little bit. Measured current, seems normal, 100% power 27mA, 50% power 15mA, 25% power 7mA Checked output from control board seems normal 0V to 5V. Checked focus is great. Laser beam seems pink and great No other clue what may wrong… any help please? ——————- I found an issue that the lens is installed up side down, the flat side faced up, I reversed it back, and found it improved somehow, I can cut 12mm/s with 50% power now, no where near the numbers in this post but much better. submitted by /u/Broad_Worldliness_53 to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]

80 W CO2 laser, 55% max power, 3 mm/s, had to run the program twice. submitted by /u/TFIta369 to r/lasercutting [link] [comments]