Downy Fabric Softener

... Original Scent, 42 Count - Downy Free & Gentle Rinse Laundry... OZ - Downy RINSE & REFRESH Laundry Odor Remover and Fabric Softener, Fresh Lavender...

..., Water_Baby_ said: I can't find Downy Wrinkle Release in the stores... water, rubbing alcohol and fabric softener. The other uses fabric softener, water, and vinegar. Have...

... spokesman and commercial stooge for Downy fabric softener.

Amazon [amazon.com] has 4 × Downy Liquid Fabric Softener, April Fresh Scent, 140 fl...

[Removed by moderator] I got email saying delivered June 8 2026 at 11:40 AM I did not get the liquid downy wrinkle guard pack of 2 at all The Seller is Simples Mart Shop. The UPS 1Z41W81030950117 Ipaid by credit card I do want the liquid Downy Wrinkle Guard fabric softener pack of 2. [Removed by moderator]

... of my top bow in Downy fabric softener for three days. After that...

Quote from ballershanelle : Do u or anyone know a few very cheap p abd g products to get the amount over $50 spent for the rebate? I'm like a under a buck short??? This looks like the cheapest Downy Soft, 2 in 1 Soft and Fresh Liquid Fabric Softener $4.97 [amazon.com]

Amazon [amazon.com] has 56-Oz Downy Ultra Soft Fabric Softener Liquid (Calm, Lavender and...

... of harmful substances? AI Overview Fabric softener without 'junk' (synthetic substances, microplastics... is what I use Downy Free and Gentle Fabric Softener. It is not...

... items: TP, bar soap, and fabric softener. Pretty basic stuff, and all ... inches of it. Next up: Downy fabric softener. The “leading brand” stuff your... might cost (ref Dial and Downy) a lot less or slightly ...

I have always used fabric softener. I use about half of what they recommend. Downy, my son did not like the smell so I switched to Downy Free n Gentle, then he stop complaining. I heard that dryer sheets are not good for the dryer. Something about something in them builds up in your dryer and affects the dryer parts. I do not really know but I do not use them.

It's getting to the point where I have to return 90% of what I buy from Amazon, Target, Costco or Walmart because everything smells so strongly of tide and downy (or Gain!). I am so sick of Downy Butt contaminating everything from vitamins to new clothes. P&G changed all their detergents and fabric softeners in 2025 to make the scents much stronger, and now everything their laundry products are stored near just plain stinks. I'm home bound, so have to use these major retailers. I can't shop elsewhere for everything, these are my main or only choices. CVS and Walgreens have also become problematic, everything from there smells and tastes like laundry products. It's so gross! No way is this safe. We are not supposed to eat laundry detergent, and I don't want to eat food that tastes like laundry detergent either. The fragrance contamination doesn't wash out of brand new fabrics, even after weeks of trying everything. We are fragrance free because we all have asthma... One in twelve people does too. Plus tons of people have allergies, MCS, autism, Lyme, and other medical conditions and disabilities that cause severe fragrance intolerance are affected. These are not small groups of people. It's crazy that we can't get anything from any of these major retailers now because of these intense laundry smells, and they don't go away or air out, even with time. We are getting asthma attacks when we open most amazon (or target, walmart, even costco) packages, the smell is so strong and doesn't air out. I wish all these major retailers would refuse to sell tide, downy, and gain because those products now make everything stored near them stink and taste like chemicals. Nothing gets these smells out now! Costco used to be safest, but now they sell so many of these laundry scent beads and scented laundry products that everything really reeks. It's not fair to have new things arrive already smelling contaminated like Downy Butt. Nasty! submitted by /u/TopazCoracle to r/Asthma [link] [comments]

It's getting to the point where I have to return 90% of what I buy from Amazon because everything smells so strongly of tide and downy. P&G changed all their detergents and fabric softeners in 2025, and now everything their laundry products are stored near stinks. Food tastes like detergent and fabric softener, and it doesn't wash out of brand new fabric. My house is fragrance free because we all have asthma... One in twelve people has asthma, we’re not a minority. It's crazy that we can't get anything from amazon now because of these intense laundry smells, and they don't go away even with time. We are getting asthma attacks when we open most amazon packages, the smell is so strong and doesn't air out. I wish all these major retailers would refuse to sell tide, downy, and gain because those products now make everything stored near them stink and taste like chemical cleaners--forever. Nothing gets these smells out now! Amazon, please do better! submitted by /u/TopazCoracle to r/amazonprime [link] [comments]

Not looking for the "they bother my nose!" commentary, or anecdotal perfume headaches. I appreciate these are 100% legitimate issues for some people, but that's not the question I'm asking here. I'm asking about the *actual science* behind the ingredients that scent beads (like Downy Unstoppables) are made from. For *years* I've heard nothing but how terrible they are for your clothes and washing machine. People say the wax melts and coats your clothes in oily residue - just like fabric softener - and it degrades your fabrics, shortening their life span. People also say the wax builds up and clogs critical components of your washing machine. A quick search of the sub brings up dozens of posts about this exact thing, with hundreds of highly upvoted comments stating these exact claims. But now, seemingly outta the blue, the last week or so I've seen several posts and comment threads singing the praises of scent beads. People saying they *do not* coat your clothes and appliances in oily residues, and they dissolve fully and completely in water. People talking about the beads having ingredients similar to miralax (of all things), and that they are 100% safe to use on your linens, clothes, and pose zero threat to the intricate components of washing machines... And now *those* are the comments with all the upvotes. Someone will inevitably comment, repeating the previously pushed propaganda of the evil of scent beads, and now *they're* the ones getting downvoted into oblivion. I'm just confused as hell at this point. Were people simply parroting incorrect information on all those posts 6 months ago? Has the formulation of scent beads drastically changed in the last 6 months? They used to be made from the devil's sweat, but now they're made from water-soluble innocence? Did the sub just have a recent influx of pro-scent-beaders who are just sadly misinformed, and they're the ones upvoting each other? Has Big Laundry infiltrated the sub solely to stir up civil unrest? submitted by /u/BrieBelle00 to r/laundry [link] [comments]

I have used in both for a while and wondering if Is could be concerned. I don’t have any allergies to it obviously. submitted by /u/senseigorilla to r/laundry [link] [comments]

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submitted by /u/jantoxdetox to r/dailyChismisPh [link] [comments]

It doesn't seem like it. Is there an after-market dispenser cup I can add? I'm trying to add citric acid to my rinse, and I don't really trust that the Downy Ball would release it magically at the right moment? How? You can also just tell me to trust the Downy Ball. This top-loader Amana washer is new to me and it is wearing out my clothes already after just a few washes; I at least want to be able to soften them up with citric acid, as I used to do in my beloved LG front loader. Thank you for reading! submitted by /u/PrimrosePathos to r/laundry [link] [comments]

I have been filling water to just below max line, then adding 2t citric acid and stirring best I can in the tiny space. For detergent I have been using 365 powder. Water Hardness about 150. Washing temp used is warm and hot. 1 Extra rinse. Today I noticed a layer of crust in the drawer. I poured water on it and broke it up with a fork, thinking it would dissolve (but it didn’t). I took a picture of this I attached - basically like rocks in water. So I pulled the whole drawer out, removed the cover, wiped it all out, and reassembled. While the drawer was apart, I noticed that there isn’t really any drainage hole in that bin. I am not sure how anything ever gets out of there. After cleaning it all out, I pre-dissolved new citric acid a separate cup and poured that into the compartment, and I will do that in the future. Else I guess Downy R/R might be another option. I thought I’d post in case others notice anything similar. TL, DR: citric acid needs to be completely dissolved before adding to LG drawer submitted by /u/Radi8or to r/laundry [link] [comments]

Revised 9/15/2025 Why Add Something To The Rinse? There’s a Goldilocks point of how much detergent a particular load needs. Not enough, the soils in clothing don’t get removed. Too much, and you’re not only wasting detergent, but you can get buildup in the textiles due to modern laundry equipment being really good at washing and sort of crap at rinsing, as well as buildup in the machine because there are nooks and crannies that don’t regularly get exposed to much more than a splash of water. In a perfectly-dosed load of laundry, the detergent all rinses away and the final rinse water is indistinguishable from tap. Nobody’s load of laundry is perfectly dosed. We either tolerate some residual detergent or we don’t have clean clothes. Further, alkali residues in laundry contribute to skin irritation and texture problems in fabrics. You could rinse and rinse and rinse, but that’s a waste of drinking water. There’s a better answer than dilution: neutralization. Souring On pH Imbalances Commercial laundries have known about the importance of wash and rinse pH since the dawn of automatic laundry. They use extremely alkaline processes to get off oily soils and then they use automatically dosed acids called “laundry sours” to neutralize the alkali. That’s why hotel towels get so white and so fluffy - they blast the dirt and oil off at ph 12+, neutralize it to slightly acidic (pH 6 is optimal) and dry. High pH also helps dry cleaners get starched shirts free of things like that floozy from accounting’s lipstick on the collar of a shirt that is very much not her husband’s. The problem with these highly acidic and alkaline commercial chemistries is that they’re incredibly corrosive to skin and machines if splashed or overdosed. Commercial users monitor the pH of the final rinse water and subtly adjust the dose of these acids to get it right, and humans never touch the raw material. Home launderers do not have that luxury. Acid, In MY HOUSE? -It’s Not Just A Problem Faced By Concerned Mothers Of Teenagers In The 1960s! Big Laundry has figured out that they can get in this game for home launderers with acidic products that neutralize overdosed detergent, improve texture, and optionally add a final hit of fragrance. Selling you another thirty to fifty cents of product is good for their bottom lines, and keeps you from trying to dial down the detergent they’re selling you to the bare minimum to avoid residue. Win/Win. There’s a bunch of these products out there. P&G was the innovator with Downy Rinse Out Odor (née Rinse & Refresh) / Tide Clean Boost / Gain Rinse & Renew. They’re all identical save the fragrance package - mixtures of citric acid, sodium citrate, a glycol to give it some thickness / reduce splashing, and some preservatives so it lasts forever on the shelf. The concentration is designed so that a fabric softener dispenser holds the right amount for a given machine’s capacity, and the pH is buffered so that it’s more friendly to skin and eyes if it’s splashed on full-strength and won’t be particularly harmful if swallowed. Downy Rinse Out Odor, née Rinse & Refresh I can’t overstate how much of a laundry advance these products are: they’re probably the biggest thing to hit home laundry since Liquid Tide in 1985. They are remarkably effective at neutralizing detergent and alkaline residues in laundry. They’re safe to handle, they smell nice if you want them to, and they very much improve laundry texture and fragrance. They incidentally keep machines cleaner and reduce the risk of hard water residue on textiles, even with perfectly dosed detergent. If you like the fragrance and don’t mind the money, use them. The store brand and dollar store knockoffs work about as well - you may need to adjust dosing a little. Martha Stewart Meets Mister Wizard If you don’t care about April Fresh fragrance or the 401(k)s of P&G execs, you can just replace the active ingredient in these water-clear rinse products, citric acid. Because it comes in a convenient powdered form, you can make it fresh for every load of laundry and save some money. There’s no worry about spills because it’s a dry powder. Citric acid powders or crystals are available where home food canning or soap making supplies are sold, in Middle Eastern and Eastern European speciality food markets or online. If you’re buying it by the ton, buy technical grade and save 10%, but food grade is fine in this application and is generally cheaper in small quantities - more competition. It has an indefinite shelf life as a dry product, and if it clumps up due to atmospheric moisture, a whack of the bag will separate it again. Literally any brand is fine - $5/pound or so, delivered, is a reasonable price. One pound should do approximately 90 loads of laundry in a front loader or HE top-loader, 40 or so in a conventional top-loader. This happened to be the cheapest 2# bag of citric acid on Amazon with fast delivery the last time I needed a new one. They're all the same. You don’t need much. It’s pretty much a factor of your washer’s water use. Most HE machines need about 6-8 grams - which is about 1.5 -2 measuring teaspoons. I sort of eyeball it with a fat heaped teaspoonful right in the softener drawer of my LG washer, dry. Most top loaders need at least double - somewhere between a level and heaping Tablespoon - 15-20 grams would be a good starting point. If your water is known to be hard, use more. Increase by about 50% of the base dose for every 100ppm of hardness past 150 in your tap water. Your machine adds the water if it’s an HE machine with a drawer or compartment-type dispenser. You add the water to the fill line if it’s a conventional top-loader with an agitator-top dispenser or if you use The Downy Ball because you don’t have a dispenser. Most HE machines tolerate the dry powder in the dispenser just fine. If you find residue in yours, just top off the dispenser with tap water after adding the acid. How To Tell It's Working: You’ll feel the difference in the first wash. Whether homemade or prerolled, this is not a subtle difference. Towels are fluffier, cotton knits are drape-ier, sheets are smoother. It's not the greasy slick feel of liquid softener or dryer sheets - rather, a cottony-soft slightly fluffy feel. Synthetics have a slicker smoother feel without any hint of greasiness. Liquid Assets: If you have a dispensing system that takes an entire jug of softener at a time, or don’t have a water source close by, and want to use a DIY liquid form, you can just dissolve the right amount of citric acid in water in advance. It’s VERY unlikely you’ll get microbial growth in a pH 3.5 solution like this (in fact, citric acid solutions are an EPA-registered limited disinfectant against many microorganisms) , but it still behooves you to not mix up more than you’ll use in a month or two. Use room temperature tap water and dissolve the citric acid in the water (always add acid to water, not water to acid!), and store in a labeled glass or plastic container out of the reach of children. The question becomes “how much”? And that’s left as an exercise to the reader. It’s easier for conventional top-loader / Downy Ball users: measure how much liquid the dispenser holds to the fill line. Put that much water time how many doses you want to make in the glass or plastic container. Now add enough acid for each dose times the number of doses. An example: if your top-loader agitator-top dispenser holds 4 fl oz / 125 mL to the fill line, and you’re making 32 doses, fill up a gallon jug with 120 oz of water, add 512 grams of powder, and top off with water until the jug is full. Use 4 oz in each load and you’ll get 16 grams of acid in each load, no measuring required. Sorry for mixing metric and freedom units. Die mad about it. For drawer type dispensers, measure how much water it takes to the fill line, multiply that by how many doses you want to make, and add six to eight grams of powder to the water. For a fancy tank dispenser, Read The Fine Manual and see how much it expects to dose in each load. Six to eight grams of acid per load times the dispensed volume in water per load, multiplied by the number of doses the tank holds . If you want to add some fragrance to these liquids, you can. Essential oils generally tolerate some acid well, but maybe make a little up and see how it smells after it sits awhile. You’ll also want to shake the jug well before each use as the oils will tend to behave as oils do and float on top of the watery component. Congratulations: you’ve done what took P&G an approximate eternity to figure out, for a fraction of the money. Get yourself a little sweet treat as a reward. V1negar Is For Salads The Salad Dressing Mafia dumps white v1negar into the rinse cycle to neutralize the detergent. And it works for that. But it smells like an Italian sub sandwich while it’s wet and it takes a lot of mass to do a good job because household distilled white v1negar is only 5% acid. Moreover, acetic acid neutralizes one hydroxide ion for every molecule of acid. So one cup of v1inegar can neutralize about a teaspoon of a strong alkali. Readers, know that your laundry is generally much more alkaline than that. One teaspoon of citric acid powder neutralizes more alkali than that same cup of v1negar, without the weight, the smell or the endless plastic jugs. But What About The Seals? There's a persistent belief that citric acid is bad for the seals. I don't know what aquatic mammals have to do with laundry aside from being cute on the bag of Foca detergent. But know that this chemistry doesn't actually leave the machine or the rinse water strongly acidic. It leaves it within the range of normal tap water instead of strongly alkaline like unneutralized detergent residues do. Cautions: Last One In Is A Rotten Egg: If your water has sulfur in it, the lowered pH can cause a faint rotten egg smell. This will usually flash off when the textiles are dried. You may want to use a commercial product with fragrance in it if this is a sustained issue. Bummer about your water. It’s A Laundry Product, Not A Beverage or Eyewash: This is slightly more acidic than lime juice, but if it gets on your skin, or in your eyes, rinse thoroughly with tap water. If swallowed, contact poison control for guidance. Counteroffers: Don’t let the liquid or powder remain on stone or concrete countertops or floors. Citric acid dissolves calcium. Stone and concrete surfaces contain calcium. Rinse promptly. Financial/AI Disclosures: None of the links are affiliate links. Nobody is paying me to write these posts. I don't make a dime from any of this. This is all 100% produced by a semi-sentient actual human. submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

You’ve been referred here because you’ve got persistent stains, underarm buildup or a funky smell in your laundry due to oils not being removed thoroughly. This post was last modified 12/11/2025 - it now emphasizes the How of Spa Day instead of including the Why And When. You're Not Alone r/Laundry gets many posts a day about strange odors and persistent greasy stains. Many people recommend this technique or a variation thereof to get textiles suffering from these extremely common problems back to a clean fresh state. What In The Hell Is Spa Day? Spa Day is an intensive enzymatic reset process for textiles that have developed specific stubborn problems related to oily buildup, that won’t wash out in one or two typical washes with optimal product and program selection. It uses concentrated solutions of specific components to degrade oily soils, detach them from fibers and rinse them away. First the items are soaked in the Spa Day soak and then they are washed in the washer in a Rehab Wash to remove the things the Spa Day soak loosened up. There’s an entire post about What, Why & Why Not at What Is Spa Day? How To Spa Day What Do You Need? Container and Chemistry Holding It Together - You need a suitable container. Stainless steel, ceramic, glass or plastic containers large enough to hold the affected textiles but small enough to require a modest quantity of water are best. I am partial to beer coolers, as they hold heat for a long time and often have a drain spigot. If you’re using fragranced products and are concerned about your cooler retaining the perfumes or odor from the textiles, line it with a heavy garbage bag before adding the solution. Front Loading washing machines, even with soak cycles, are not amenable to Spa Day as you can’t keep the items submerged. If your Top Loading washing machine can do high volume soaking (with everything not just damp, but completely submerged) for 8-12 hours, that's a fine option as well, but you're using 20 gallons of water to do it and 5 cups of detergent is expensive. The smallest practical container that will completely submerge the items is the better, more economical answer. Please Don’t Use The Bathtub! - It’s much harder to keep the items submerged in a bathtub and they cool off much faster than in a container with less exposed surface area. The heat helps the chemistry work overnight. You don’t need any room for the items or solution to circulate. You just need the items saturated and submerged. If You Want To Keep The Bath Heated - sous vide circulators or a warming plate or similar gentle heat maintenance can improve Spa Day results if you’re not using a cooler or similar insulated container. Set your bath temperature to maintain 120F/50C - do not exceed 150F/65C as it damages the enzymes before they are exhausted. Chemistry - It’s As Easy As LOAD (formerly A,B,C,L)! Broadly you need four chemistry components; this can take two or three different products, depending on your personal preferences: Lipase - an enzyme that biologically cuts oils from animal or vegetable sources into four smaller pieces that detergent can more easily remove Oxygen - color-safe oxygen bleach lightens stains and rips up odor molecules Ammonia - a gas-in-water booster to improve oily soil removal and help surfactants remove oils from fibers Detergency - surfactants to attach degraded oil to water and rinse it away from the fibers The catch is, no one product can contain all four letters. They’re incompatible for storage, so it takes either two or three products to tick all the boxes. Give Me An A! - Ammonia No matter what other chemistry decisions you make, you will need a source of A - Ammonia, any 2-25% solution of ammonium hydroxide will work. Clear, sudsy or lemon doesn’t matter - it’s the ammonia that counts, not the additives. In the US and Canada it’s typically sold in large plastic jugs in the cleaning products aisle with window and hard surface cleaners, usually on the bottom shelf. It’s also available at home improvement and hardware stores. Outside the US and Canada it may be more easily found in hardware stores than grocers and hypermarkets. The most common brand available in the US is Walmart’s Great Value Clear Ammonia, found on the bottom shelf, under the window and floor cleaners. You will use 2 cups of 2% solution, 1 cup of 5% solution, 1/2 cup of 10% solution or 3T of 25% solution. A Note About Ammonia and Bleach: I’m frequently asked about the hazards of mixing ammonia and bleach. These are real. For chlorine bleach liquids or tablets, the risks of mixing with ammonia are injury and death. That’s what the dire warnings about mixing ammonia and bleach are about - chlorine bleaches, like Clorox or Cloralen. Mixing chlorine bleach and ammonia forms chloramine, a hazardous compound that can injure lung tissue with relatively minor exposure. Don't do that. Ever. You shouldn’t mix full-strength liquid ammonia with dry oxygen booster either, especially in a sealed container, as it will burst as it releases ammonia gas. This is why the instructions for Rehab Wash are very careful to minimize contact between dry powders containing oxygen bleach and the ammonia liquid. The risk from mixing ammonia and oxygen bleaches diluted in water, as used in this method, are limited to getting it on your hair and waiting 45 minutes to an hour, at which point you will be a brassy blonde. Or blond, if you’re a dude. Ammonia + peroxide is the secret of bottle blondes everywhere. It’s perfectly safe. I’m not out here trying to kill people. Follow the method directions below carefully. L, O & D - You Have Choices This has historically been the source of the most questions about the process. Hence why each of the four options has been split out into a separate linked document. Choose an approach before proceeding. Measurements for each component in both stages are in the linked document, along with regional example products. Option 1 - Complete Powder/Tablet in the Spa Day Soak, Complete Powder/Tablet + Liquid Ammonia In Rehab Wash Option 2 - Complete Booster Powders for Spa Day Soak, Complete Booster Powder + Any Detergent + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Option 3 - Lipase Detergent + Added Oxygen Booster in Spa Day Soak, Lipase Detergent + Added Oxygen Booster + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Option 4 - *NEW* Enzyme Booster + Any Detergent In Spa Day Soak, Enzyme Booster + Any Detergent + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Next Stop, Canyon Ranch - It's Time For Your Clothes To Have A Spa Day - The Soak Step S1 - Prepare The Textiles - Sort the affected textiles generally by color - it’s best practice to use separate soaks and washes for at least darks, colors, and whites + neutrals. Red cottons are notorious for bleeding color throughout their lives, so consider soaking them entirely separately. Step S2 - Prepare The Spa Day Solution - dissolve the Spa Day Soak components in hottest possible tap water (up to 140F/60C) and stir until completely dissolved using a wood, plastic or stainless steel implement. You must ensure that all of the granules of the powder are completely dissolved before adding the fabrics. Failure to do so can result in permanent discoloration of items. If you’re unsure if your powder components have fully dissolved, wait five minutes and stir again. The single biggest source of textile damage from Spa Day occurs when product is not completely dissolved and the wet particles settle on clothing causing focal bleaching. This is most common with Vanish/Resolve/Napisan powders in Option 2 chemistry, but all products with TAED are at risk of this side effect. Be especially careful to stir any foam back down into the bath if you're using Vanish/Resolve/Napisan , as fine particles can be suspended in the foam. You will not add any liquid ammonia in this step, regardless of which chemistry option you choose. Step S3 - Add The Textiles - submerge the textiles completely in the Spa Day solution, squeezing and pressing to ensure complete saturation. Textiles need to be completely underwater for the duration of the Spa Day soak. A ceramic plate or mug, or white cotton towels are an excellent way to keep items submerged. Covering the container to keep the heat in longer improves results. Step S4 - Relax And Enjoy Better Things For Better Living Through The Miracle Of Science- Soak 8-12 hours. Just let the process work. No need to stir. Watch cat videos or something. Step S5 - Drain - Drain the textiles. Don’t wring or twist or particularly try to dewater the textiles. Send Those Dirty, Dirty Textiles Straight To Rehab To Clean Up Their Acts! - The Rehab Wash(es) Now it’s time to wash off what the Spa Day soak has loosened up. Enter the Rehab Wash. Step W1 - Load Dry Powders & Liquid Detergent In The Machine - using the dosages and products described in Options 1-4 above, place any liquid detergent components in the dispenser of your machine (if so equipped) and place any powders either in the dispenser configured for powder (if only using powders) or in the bottom of the wash basket. Do not combine liquid and powder ingredients in the dispenser. If you have no detergent dispensers, place the powders and any liquid detergent in different sections of the wash basket so they don’t form clumps. Step W2 - Load Drained Textiles In The Machine - Place a load worth of damp, drained textiles in the machine. For front loaders, this is typically about 75% of the way up the glass when damp. For top-load machines, use as many pieces as you would typically wash, accounting that they will take up less space while sodden. Step W3 - Add The Ammonia - Pour the dose of the A - Ammonia liquid directly on the textiles - the amount ranges from 3T to 2 cups depending on concentration. Most household ammonia in the US and Canada is around 4-5%, so you’ll use 1 cup/250 mL. Do not pour the A - Ammonia in the washer first, nor pour it directly on any powdered products. If you're using a top-load washer, and you're concerned about ammonia odors, allow the washer to fill completely and then pour the ammonia directly into the water. Step W4 - Wash - It's important to start the wash quickly after the textiles are loaded - the powder they're touching is water-activated, and you don't want damp concentrated powder on the items for very long. Wash with a heavy duty cycle, warm or hot water as appropriate for the fabrics, and set the soil level as high as possible to extend the wash process if possible. Choose as many extra rinses as available to reduce any residue left behind. Do not add fabric softener, scent beads, chlorine bleach, borax, washing soda, v1negar, live animals or your hopes and dreams to the wash process. You may add citric acid or v1negar to the softener dispenser to reduce the final pH of the clothing. Please note: Rehab Wash may produce ammonia odors, especially in conventional top-loading machines - in fact, it may smell like the Windex factory exploded. Don’t worry - these fumes will disappear when the fabric is dry. Ammonia is a gas in water; it will evaporate completely leaving nothing behind. You may want to crack a window, turn on a vent fan or avoid the area while washing. People vary substantially in their tolerance of ammonia fumes. Step W5 - Dry - If you’re treating stains or visible underarm buildup, hang to dry when the cycle completes. If you’re treating odors, you may tumble dry on delicate/low heat until mostly dry, but hang to finish, just in case there is a lingering odor. It’s MUCH more effective to rewash when the lingering bits haven’t been baked in with thorough high-temperature drying. Step W6 - Evaluate - If visible stains or perceptible odor remain, you may need to repeat the rehab washes. Start from Step W1 of Rehab Wash If the stains or odors aren’t removed within three rehab washes, they may be permanent and they may not be oil stains at all. Please see Polyquat Spots for details on a common cause of oily-looking stains that can’t be removed by conventional methods. Step W7 - Bask In Your Success - Your textiles should now be clean to touch, feel and smell. Nice work! Keeping It Clean - Maintenance washes: Regular use of any laundry product with lipase (see The Lipase List for a link to a spreadsheet with a maintained list of products) will remove oily stains and prevent buildup and odors. All oily soil removal is improved by using at least a warm / 40C cycle and residue removal is improved by using an acidic rinse product like Downy Rinse Out Odor, Gain Rinse & Renew, Tide Boost, citric acid or v1negar. Citric Rinsing has details on residue-removal rinsing. Pretreating spots and stains with a pretreater or liquid detergent with lipase can virtually guarantee first-wash removal - see the pretreater tab on the sheet linked from The Lipase List ). A Note About Authorship: This work, like all other original-content posts on Reddit, is the property of the original poster, and commercial reuse of the work requires permission from the author, not just attribution. If you’d like to request permission, drop me a chat or email me - [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

Today I removed my fabric softner dispenser and look at the build up. Mind you I probably have used downy maybe 10 times submitted by /u/Various-Entry8021 to r/CleaningTips [link] [comments]

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This woman has relegated their poster to the laundry room. I guess it’s a paycheck. submitted by /u/HolyToast666 to r/CommercialsIHate [link] [comments]

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submitted by /u/InspiraSean86 to r/Millennials [link] [comments]

So if you’re part of this sub-Reddit you probably also know just how bad fabric softener is; not only for your appliance but for your clothes! Fabric softener ruins machines with tons of build up overtime, it can create huge mold and mildew problems in front loaders, and almost all the fabric softeners on the market are made with some type of synthetic wax/fat or animal fat. And… it’s not even good or beneficial to any type of fabric! Some people argue that they have hard water so they need to use fabric softener. But there are plenty of alternatives available versus fabric spftener. Downy even makes a fabric softener alternative “Rinse and Refresh” that’s basically a fabric softener without the nasty residue (Although I also believe it’s a waste of money since it’s mostly just fragrance) or just use regular vinegar! submitted by /u/zachty22 to r/CleaningTips [link] [comments]

There’s a lot of convo on here about laundry best practices and one of my takeaways is don’t use fabric softener. ever. Are these just as bad for laundry or are they different / ok? I love how they smell! submitted by /u/OTRLauren to r/CleaningTips [link] [comments]

I've been doing most, or at least half of the laundry since we moved, we've been here for about 2 years now. Every time I do the laundry I notice that there's a blue residue in the fabric softener tank in the laundry machine, and it seems to continue to build up. I telling myself I should mention to my gf that she should stop putting laundry soap into the wrong cup, but I keep forgetting. This morning I finally remembered and I somewhat sarcastically asked her why she feels the need to keep putting laundry detergent into the wrong part of the laundry machine. She's initially confused until I tell her that it's blue and that the soap is blue. She realizes the mistake faster than I do. Turns out I've been washing our clothes with Downy instead of laundry soap for the past couple of years. But hey, at least I've been making our laundry smell clean, right? TL;DR: For the past few years, I've been washing our clothes with fabric softener instead of detergent. submitted by /u/Smooth_McDouglette to r/tifu [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Hopeful-Place-3044 to r/gardening [link] [comments]

I made a comment about using vinegar in your laundry, and got a few comments asking for more details, so I decided to make another post. I use vinegar in place of fabric softener in my laundry. Not only does it soften clothes, but it also a natural deodorizer. And it's CHEAP, compared to fabric softener. 1 gallon will do 32 loads. At US$2.50 a gallon, you're looking at less than US 8¢ per load. I think the average cost per load of even store brand fabric softener is going to be around US 30¢ per load. And vinegar is all-natural™, softens and deodorizes, and will remove hard water deposits in your washing machine. You can usually buy a small bottle in the grocery store for less than a dollar, if you want to just try it out. EDIT: You should add this to your fabric softener dispenser in your washing machine. If you don't have one, then a Downy fabric softener dispenser may work. WARNING: DO NOT MIX VINEGAR AND CHLORINE BLEACH OR COLOR SAFE BLEACH EVER!!!! THIS CANNOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH! VINEGAR AND CHLORINE BLEACH WILL PRODUCE CHLORINE GAS. YOU WILL BURN THE INSIDE OF YOUR LUNGS AND MAY NOT SURVIVE THE EXPERIENCE. HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (USUALLY FOUND IN COLOR SAFE BLEACH) AND VINEGAR WILL MAKE PERACETIC ACID. THOUGH NOT AS DANGEROUS, IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THESE CHEMICALS NOT BE MIXED. If you are unable to dispense vinegar using a fabric softener dispenser, best not to use it. submitted by /u/plazman30 to r/lifehacks [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/agentblack000 to r/mildlyinfuriating [link] [comments]