Perfume Oil

... daily use), and NYX large Oil Slick Click (good formula, not... of this mind too. In perfume, something like 5% of the...

... world of fragrances, providing exquisite perfume for women and mens perfumes... for men. We believe that perfume oil is the key ingredient that ... exceptional one. Therefore, we prioritise perfume oil over branding, advertising, and packaging... perfumers to blend the finest perfume oils at high concentrations to... luxury womens perfumes, girls perfume, body mist for women, perfume sets, mens fragrances...

...: Selling a high-quality, pure concentrated perfume oil with the elegant Splendid fragrance... profile. Perfect for direct use, perfume blending, or upgrading your personal... (Premium French quality oil) • Type: 100% Alcohol-Free Pure Perfume Oil • Key Features: Long-lasting...

... experience that celebrates individuality. This perfume, part of Ariana Grande's new.... At the heart of this perfume lies a sophisticated gourmand experience, ... and vibrant, the MOD Vanilla perfume is a luscious blend that ..., Formaldehyde Free, Gluten Free, Mineral Oil Free, Paraben Free, Phthalate Free, ...

... in a society of palm oil business and that's the only.... So today was my palm oil processing day and I had... took my bath, sprayed my perfume and went out to a ...

... again, the scent of her perfume still in the air. Sunday... other uses.” Next came cooking oil, coffee in metal cans, and...

.... The scent of cheap perfume and lamp oil clung to him, masking...

... - <Riala> 8/10 • 38 Perfume Genius - <Put Your Back... - <Syro> 8/10 • 10 Perfume Genius - <Too Bright> 8... Deeper Understanding> 8/10 • 26 Perfume Genius - <No Shape> 8...> 8/10 • 17 SOPHIE - <OIL OF EVERY PEARL'S UN-INSIDES> 8... - <Shields> 8/10 • 132 Perfume Genius - <Too Bright> 8...

... the jar and poured the perfume on His head." - Mark... were everywhere. Used for water, oil, grain, storage. Simple. Replaceable. Easily...

... anointed you, pouring out the oil of joy on you more ... else. Myrrh, aloes, and cassia perfume your robes. In ivory palaces ...

Hi guys! Recently I started looking into perfume oils. My curiosity started after I smelled my MIL beautiful “cleopatra musk” perfume oil. I got obsessed. She said she bought it 10 years ago in some local perfumery shop on her trip to Alabama. Sooo… I can’t get it anywhere. It was made by the ladies in that store. The longevity and sillage is CRAZY. It lasts whole day and you can smell it all day. And the scent is so beautiful, clean, but very feminine. I figured, it must be the fact that it is an oil not a typical spray perfume. I tried ordering some from etsy. one was from Bassette (amazing customer service btw love them!!!) but the scent was not for me (egyptian musk). Do you have any recommendations? ☺️🙏🏻 submitted by /u/FutureCourage674 to r/FemFragLab [link] [comments]

I know i said I was doing a no spend. I lied. After this. Im done lol I HAD to get the rest of the oils. Had to. When i tell you j love them. LOVE. I wish they would make a perfume oils of Coastal Garden and Pacific Nights. Perfume oils are my new thing. submitted by /u/Locked-Luxe-Lox to r/dollartreebeauty [link] [comments]

I got someone elses order after ordering a few things for the Sephora sale. Someone was looking out for me because i not only love the smell of the perfumes, but everything is a good shade for me or something ive wanted to try!! And they are sending me my actual order for free! Pictured: Cosmic Kylie Jenner Eau de Parfum 1.69 oz Cosmic Kylie Jenner and Cosmic Kylie Jenner intense Eau de Parfum duo gift set Rhode pocket blush in the shade tan line Benefit 24 hour brow setter X2 Anastasia Beverly Hills mini clear brow gel Rare Beauty warm wishes soft matte powder bronzer in the shade sun blaze Glossier priming moisturizer balance oil control gel-cream X8 Caudalie premier cru anti aging serum One size until dawn setting spray 3.4 oz submitted by /u/Certain_Bridge_4208 to r/Sephora [link] [comments]

Please help me find another one of this! It's a Body Shop perfume oil. I found this among my mum's collection a while ago, and it's absolutely divine! It's definitely an oil, and has an applicator stick. I'm very much an amateur wrt perfumes, so I'm not able to accurately desribe the scents or notes. It is not quite a sweet smell, but definitely a rich scent. Somewhat like oud or musk, but not exactly the same. It's hard to describe but, it's so distinctive! This is the only perfume that I haven't developed a negative reaction to, so I am desperate to find more bottles of this before it runs out! I almost always develop a negative reaction to alcohol based or synthetic perfumes, so this almost certainly does not have those ingredients. It has 50 embossed on the bottom of the bottle. Please help me find or identify this, I'd be eternally grateful 🤞🏻 submitted by /u/pspskk26 to r/Perfumes [link] [comments]

I never paid much attention to oil perfumes; I always used regular spray perfumes because that’s what everyone around me was using. Spray it on and leave the house — that was it. I used to think oil perfumes were outdated or too strong to apply. One night, I was scrolling aimlessly and found myself browsing random items on alibaba. I came across oil perfumes in small bottles, and people were talking about how long-lasting they were. I became curious, with no high expectations, since my usual perfume never lasted past noon. The first thing I noticed when it arrived was how different it felt. There was no heavy smell of alcohol, and it lingered close to my body rather than filling up the entire room. I started using it before work, and I could still smell it on my wrist at night. It lasted all day without needing to reapply. I now understand why some people prefer oil perfumes. It is more intimate as though you can notice when someone is near rather than when he is across the room. I didn’t expect such a small perfume to alter my lifestyle, but it did. Now, regular spray perfumes feel too loud to me. submitted by /u/sleeping_hobby to r/fragrance [link] [comments]

Hey everyone, Gulf Arab here. I wanted to gently clarify a few common misconceptions about Arab fragrance culture, especially since I see these points come up often. First, something important to clear up: The mass-produced “dupe” brands like Lattafa, Paris Corner, Armaf, etc. are not what we actually wear. These brands are created for international markets, often mimicking popular Western fragrances, and marketed as “Arab perfumes.” While many of them are Dubai-based, they don’t represent traditional or local fragrance preferences in the Gulf. The perfume houses that are genuinely popular and respected locally tend to be brands like Amouage, OmanLuxury, Abdul Samad Al Qurashi, Arabian Oud, and similar heritage houses. The style leans toward richer, deeper, more complex compositions: oud, amber, spices, woods, frankincense, tobacco, saffron, etc. Second, and this part is often overlooked: In Gulf fragrance culture, the spray perfume alone is usually not the whole story. A big part of the scent profile comes from pure oud oil or pure musk oil applied directly to the skin first. The fragrance is layered on top of that, and the routine is often finished with incense (bakhoor) on clothes. So when you notice those sophisticated scents with powerful projection and long-lasting trails on Arabs from the Gulf, it’s the result of very high-quality materials and thoughtful layering (pure oils, perfume, and incense) not just a single $30 dupe bottle. I’m sharing this purely for context and discussion. If anyone is curious about traditional routines, raw materials, or how these scents are actually used locally, I’m happy to explain more. 🫡 submitted by /u/Few_Masterpiece_4380 to r/fragrance [link] [comments]

[r/laundry](r/laundry) is filled with tales of woe - smelly armpits, mystery stains, socks the color of cream of mushroom soup - complete with mysterious embedded dark chunks. I personally love solving these problems (and the reactions when people post the process and results of disaster recovery are extremely popular there). But what of people who just have normal laundry and want a little tune-up? Or have never done their own laundry before? How about some love and guidance for the non-smelly, non-stained, non-crusty? Here's something for them. How I do normal laundry day-to-day. Getting Personal: What people are often surprised to learn is that I really don’t enjoy doing laundry. I don’t think it’s an act of service - I think it’s survival, and I further think expending the minimal amount of time and effort that respects my textiles (and the human and resource inputs that went in to making them) is the best use of my time. It just needs to be done right the first time, every time, so I can watch cat videos on the Internet. There’s no one right way to do laundry, just like there’s no one right way to make a grilled cheese sandwich. Much like slightly-stale sourdough with a skim of dijon mustard inside and a blend of sharp cheddar and either fontina or Monterey Jack, fried in Whirl is my favorite way to do the latter, this is my laundry default method, developed over the years of contending with my messes. 95%+ of the loads I do fall in this rubric. Also note that I’m in North America with water softer than about 75% of households. There are endless corner cases, including silk, wool, down, GoreTex and other waterproof technical fabrics, semi-synthetics like rayon, viscose, “bamboo”, modal, Lyocell and Tencel, silver-infused, FR and anti-static, pillows and stuffed toys, shoes and rugs. I’ll get to those later. This is for: Towels Sheets / Duvet Covers / Pillowcases Clothing (other than Dry Clean Only pieces) Which are at least 95% the following fibers: Cotton Linen Hemp Ramie Polyester / Dacron Nylon / Polyamide Acrylic Lycra / Spandex / Elastane Laundry Apartheid: Separating The Whites And The Colors Please note: I have a problem. I don’t think you absolutely need to do this much to have very good results. You could easily combine the dark and lights in a color family, for example, especially if you use a detergent with anti-redeposition or use color catchers. It’s also likely you could combine neutrals and embellished whites successfully. I have a lot of laundry categories. I also don’t look good in yellow or orange, so I don’t own it. If you do, good for you, and you could aim at the red loads and move the purples to the dark blues and greens. I wear a lot of plum and purple. I have a bunch of IKEA Frakta/Storstomma 80 liter bags hanging up, and stuff gets sorted into them daily. When they’re mostly full, I run the load. Black, charcoal, navy and dark brown Dark blues and greens Dark reds and purples Light blues and greens Light reds and purples Neutrals like khaki, tan, ecru, light grey and taupe Whites with stripes / embellishment Absolute plain white Socks & Underwear (cotton blends, mostly white) Sheets (by color) People Towels (by color) Kitchen & Pet Towels (all white, presoaked with chlorine bleach for sanitizing in my world) The towels and sheets get isolated in this scheme because for me, I need to dry the sheets on Delicate and the towels on High. Your sheets may be more durable or you may be willing to separate them between the wash and dry. They’re both full loads for me, without the need to combine to make a good load. Sorting like this gives me flexibility in the choice of chemistry, and doesn’t require me to take any special precautions to prevent color transfer in anything but the first wash of an item. I also care a lot less about lint, because the lint is largely invisible when it’s between items of like color and intensity. Pretreat: Don’t Make Your Detergent Do Everything I am a pretreater. One of the first laundry tasks I was ever trusted with by my legendarily persnickety mother was identifying stains for pretreating, and eventually I was trusted with her can of old-skool Spray ’n’ Wash with solvents. Detergents and equipment have improved a lot in the years since mumblemumble, but I still pretreat, in exchange for not having to check every garment for lingering stains between wash and dry. The Usual: Stains from Food, Plants and Animals Including Myself This is the most common cause of stains on my laundry. It’s like I never learned to use cutlery as a toddler. It’s also the most common cause of spots on most textiles for most people. My not-so-secret weapon against these stains? Enzyme pretreater. They’re safe on the listed fabrics regardless of color, they’re not smelly or environmentally sketchy, they work extremely well and there are many to choose from. There’s a list on the spreadsheet linked at The Lipase List on the Pretreater tab. Pick whichever one sounds good - they all work about the same because their formulae are about the same. ​I've got a stockpile of old-formula Tide Rescue that I'm emotionally attached to in a less-than-healthy way, but I've also been happy with Whole Foods and Open Nature. I'll pick up a bottle of the President's Choice next time I'm in Canada. Spritz or squirt the stains at least a half-hour before laundering, up to about a week. These removers are working so long as they’re damp, and once they’ve worked, the stain washes out with detergent - so don’t be discouraged if the stain still appears to be there before washing. The Not Uncommon: Mineral Oils I work on cars and do motorsports. I get automotive grease on me. Enzyme pretreaters are nothing special on this kind of oily soil. What works is nonionic surfactant, the active ingredient in many heavy-duty liquid detergents. Anything can work here. I usually have some Tide or Persil around for this purpose. If you get these spots, hit them with some liquid detergent at least fifteen minutes before washing. Penetration is improved if you dilute 1:1 with tap water. Tamping the mixture in with a brush or spoon can help improve first-wash removal. This is also a solid pretreater for waterproof/water resistant makeup stains. The Woes Of Living With Someone Who Takes Notes In Ink Ink merits special consideration. While many inks and markers and crayons will come out with standard wash, many will not. If I see an ink mark on something, I pretreat it with a specialist product, either Amodex or Carbona Stain Devil 3, Ink, Marker & Crayon, following the label directions carefully. These three categories cover 99% of my laundry woes. Ask [r/laundry](r/laundry) or DM me for advice if you have something else on your textiles. Don’t dump v1negar on it as a default. Check. Your. Pockets. I argue that it’s the responsibility of whoever wore the garment to check the pockets before things go in the hamper, barring some debility or being too young to understand the risks of not doing so (which in my case could rise to capital punishment). But it behooves the launderer to give a final check. The launderer is entitled to keep anything they find that they want, including cash, jewelry, electronics and snacks. Consider it a tip. Load The Machine: I have a 4.5 ft^3 LG front loader. Truly middle of the pack. If I’m using powders in the wash cycle, they go in the back of the drum now. We’ll come back to that topic. I add enough textiles to reach at least 75% of the way up the opening but not so many there isn’t a fist worth of space open at the top of the drum. Loading this full optimizes the mechanical action of the wash. I check the door seal drains for lint or hair or debris before shutting the door. If something has straps narrower than about 2” or is of delicate construction that could be prone to stretching (a sweater like a knit cotton cardigan, not a sweatshirt), it goes in a mesh delicates bag, alone. If it has screen printed graphics or is denim, it gets turned inside out to protect the surface appearance. If you want your jeans to exhibit more character at friction points, wash right side out. Zippers are zipped. Buttons and snaps are unfastened. Velcro is adjusted so no scratchy part is exposed. Hoodie strings are tied. When I still use a conventional top loader, like on vacation,I loosely load it dry to the water fill line that you can usually see on the agitator. I would then adjust the water fill level so, after a couple minutes of agitation, the textiles have between 3/4 and two inches of water above them. 1.5 is perfect. Chemistry: I’m a sweaty greasy mess who drops food. So obviously I use an enzyme detergent. I maintain a list at The Lipase List where you can find something you like that works with your water. I don’t care about the presence or absence of fragrance one way or the other, but if the product is fragranced it has to be unobtrusive. From an olfactory perspective, I really don’t want $5 of my perfume overpowered by $0.02 worth of laundry fragrance. As of this writing, I’m doing 85+% of my loads with 2 oz / 60ml of liquid 365 Sport Detergent from Whole Foods because it has an uncommon enzyme, DNase, that gets my clothes cleaner than my previous regimen. I’ve discussed why DNase matters elsewhere. I add 1-2 fluid oz (2-4T / about 20-40g) or so of an oxygen bleach. If a load is cotton-rich and lighter in color than “light navy”, it’s more likely to get Biz just because I like the effect of optical brightener. If the load is darker, it doesn’t get Biz - it gets an oxi without optical brightener, like Kirkland Signature (which I hate the smell of and am working through to use it up), Target’s Up and Up, OxiClean Free or 365 Oxygen Whitener. When I get to the bottom of this pile of oxi bleaches, I’ll switch to Febu to get all the goodies aside from optical brightener. ​The other 15% of these animal-fiber-free loads get 4.5T / 70ml ofTide with Bleach powder. It’s purely vibes and color that define which gets which when. Only things qualifying as lights or lighter get the TwB. I also use TwB on kitchen towels because they don’t get a lot of benefit from DNase - might as well save a little cash. Automotive loads get 3 oz / 90ml of Tide/Persil liquid and a cup/ 250mL of ammonia. You can’t beat the cleaning of a high-performance conventional-surfactant liquid on petrochemical soils. Ammonia helps the grease removal. I am a massive fan of citric acid rinsing. It leaves my cottons cottonier, my polyesters slicker and my animal fibers softer and smoother. I use a shade over 2 tsp / 10g citric acid crystals right in the softener dispenser. My machine likes the dry just fine and I don’t get residual crunchies after the wash. YMMV. Details of the Why of citric rinsing here ​Wash (Finally): TL;DR - warm water, Normal cycle, extra rinses, adjusting soil level as appropriate with just enough detergent to do the job, citric acid in the rinse. Wash Action: I generally wash on Normal because these items are Normal. I usually set the soil level to the maximum - this extends the agitation to get maximum cleaning with no downside except a time penalty. Temperature: I usually select a warm wash for clothing and a hot wash for socks/underwear, towels and sheets. The exception to this is clothing with automotive soils - it gets much cleaner on hot wash because of the nature of the soils. My warm wash is about 102F/39C. Barely over body temperature, slightly cooler than I like my bathwater or shower, completely appropriate for bathing an infant. Using water of this temperature lets me use half the agitation time as I would at 82F/28C to get the same cleaning results, and one fourth the agitation time as would be required at 62F/17C. Rinses are always cold on my machine. Rinse: Yes, please. All of them. As many as the machine will let me select. Even with perfectly dosed detergent, you’re going to get some carryover from wash to rinse, and at the end of the first rinse, my clothes are still of higher pH than my tap water. That’s a definitive indication that there is still wash chemistry in there. pH is easy to measure on finished fabrics (just touch pH paper to the damp textiles and see for yourself) and it’s therefore the best proxy for rinse thoroughness. Three gallons of extra water for each rinse cycle is pocket lint compared to the other ways we use water in the US, and it’s respectful to your skin and the textiles to get them throughly rinsed. My machine dispenses the softener cup in the last selected rinse, so my final pH is lower than tap water thanks to the citric acid. Spin Speed: Send it. Unless an item is stuffed or of extremely delicate construction (like a $500 bra), spin speed is a synonym for “how much detergent-infused water would you like to get rid of?” I’d like to maximize that. High speed spin it is. I then go off and ignore the machine for 2:07. It’s laboring. I don’t need to. I come here and talk about laundry. How (Not) Dry I Am: For as much time as I want my clothes to spend in the washer, and my longstanding enthusiasm for warmer wash temperatures, my feelings about the dryer go the other way. The dryer is where clothes (especially natural and semisynthetic fibers) go to die. Hot dry air is lethal to clothing. Overdrying is so much worse than any notional “overwashing”. Unless it’s a towel, if it’s going in the dryer, it’s going on Delicate, Sensor Dry, set to “less dry”, and all the “wrinkle guard”/cool down my 1987 Kenmore can muster. This leaves most cotton-rich fabrics barely damp to the touch, slightly damper at the seams. At the end of the cycle, they are room temperature and that trace of dampness ensures they never got too hot during the cycle to come up to “damaged fiber”. As a result, my lint screen has barely the faintest trace of lint from clothing loads (although, admittedly, we don’t wear a ton of fleece). Shirts and pants get hung out of the dryer, other clothing gets piled loosely in an open basket to acclimate / finish drying at ambient. Sheets get dried all the way to dry on delicate (a tiny fraction closer to the “dry” setting than the “less dry” and sometimes they need an hour laid out on the bed before they’re completely dry. Towels get dried sensor dry hot as a final microbial kill step and come out hot to the touch. If the item is more than about 75% synthetic content, it’s getting hung to dry right out of the washer. My laundry room is warm and dry and these fibers dry so quickly. Limiting exposure to heat is especially important for blends with Lycra/spandex/elastane. It’s like the fountain of youth for elastics to avoid dry heat. That’s it. That’s how I do laundry. Products mentioned here are mentioned because I like them; I haven’t been paid to mention any of them. Trademarks are those of the trademark holders. The work is my original work and I retain copyright. My financial disclosure information and how I get paid for this work can be found at https://www.kismai.com/about-kismai/Money submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

Sorry if this post isn't on topic, but I feel that this should be talked about, and I know many people don't want their money going to brands that use AI I recently got this email from the eternal oils mailing list, and "Velvet Sin" and "Gourmand Thrill" are spelled wrong which makes me think they're using AI to create content and being sloppy about it at that, not even checking and caring whether it presents well. I have recently bought some oils from this brand (and really only enjoyed 1 of them) but I'm thinking I'll unsubscribe from their mailing list and not buy anymore. Has anyone else noticed stuff like this recently with other brands? submitted by /u/icedchai111 to r/FemFragLab [link] [comments]

I got my hand on a fragrance oil roll on for the first time ( Malin + Goetz Leather) and had really enjoyed the longevity and ease of application for a low fuss, fairly subtle every day scent. It’s coming to the end of the bottle now and I’m looking to see what else is out there, what are y’all wearing these days? submitted by /u/Jim_Lennon to r/fragrance [link] [comments]

23F, little sister is 13F. I live back & forth between my mum’s and my dad’s house. All of my siblings are half-siblings on my dad’s side. I love my little sister but lately I've been getting annoyed about certain boundaries she crosses. She’s obsessed with face cream, hand cream, body spray, perfume, any hair products that smell good, lip gloss/balm - she has a very big collection of all these things. I once sat and counted how many lip stuff she has accumulated over the years and I counted 37. Despite having TONS of her own, she always asks to borrow mine and often ends up using up the entire thing (one of my perfumes was almost completely used up because she would spray it at least 20 times every time she used it) She gets upset if I don’t share my stuff with her. For example, I got a body mist from Bath & Body Works recently because I loved the smell. I decided to leave it at my mum’s house. My sister saw it in the background during a facetime and said “oh that looks like it smells good, can you bring it the next time you come here?!” and I jokingly said something along the lines of “I think we’ve got more than enough perfumes at dads”, and she was visibly upset. I’m quite a patient person so I brush all of this off bc she’s my lil sister and that's just what siblings do, right? But this recent situation has really upset me and I don’t know if I’m overreacting or not. So: It was my birthday on Tuesday. I went to my dad’s to celebrate after work. When I sat down to open presents I noticed that all of them were intact except one, of which the packaging had been ripped open and the contents removed. Hm, weird, so I asked my little sister what happened and she told me that it was one of my brother’s gifts to me (a set that included hand cream, a nail file, a nail/cuticle oil, and a little nail clipper) and she “really wanted to try it” and couldn’t wait for me to open it so she decided to go ahead and open it herself and try everything out. Half the hand cream had been squeezed out of the tube, the nail file was used because it had those tell tale scratches on it, and the small nail/cuticle oil bottle wasn’t closed properly so it was also opened. I understand that, in the grand scheme of things, this isn’t a big deal, but it made me sad that she had just gone and opened my gift like that without even thinking to consult me first. I said to her, verbatim, “You need to stop thinking all of my things are automatically yours too.” Her mum taught her that everything that belongs to your siblings also belongs to you. Her philosophy: siblings share everything. So, setting a boundary is very difficult; My sister got mad because I “never share” my things with her anymore and am “purposely” leaving some of my stuff at my mum’s place to avoid her using them. Her mum called me “quite selfish” for belittling my own sister for wanting to be “closer to me” by borrowing my things. AITA? WIBTA if I continued to be harsh about these boundaries? submitted by /u/lalaokoklalaokok to r/AmItheAsshole [link] [comments]

I ordered $320 worth of product during the sale, 3 travel size Killian perfumes, big size necessaire body lotion, body oil, and their new lippie, K18 volume spray, and Kérastase hair leave in. I received my box today (after having a HORRIBLE day) and was so excited to open it. Ripped it open and it has ONE item in it, the lotion. Rechecked my app and it says everything shipped together. Package 1 of 1, package weight approx 4 pounds on the label. The lotion in the box weighed 1.5 pounds. This is how I received it (pictured). Got on chat, was told there was nothing they could do. Called, was told there’s nothing they can do. Talked to a supervisor, told there’s nothing they can do and that they will not escalate further. For some backstory here, I’ve never even returned anything to Sephora, never had a single issue with anything in shipping that could cause me to look like a red flag, and I’ve been rouge every year for the last 10+ years. I am infuriated by this entire situation and the supervisor even acted like I was lying because “they checked the fed ex label and it said it weighed as if everything was in it”. Sephora will never get another penny from me. UPDATE: https://www.reddit.com/r/Sephora/comments/1nki1vf/update_my_last_dollars_spent_here_ever/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button submitted by /u/shesnotsadshesrad to r/Sephora [link] [comments]

You’ve been referred here because you’ve got persistent stains, underarm buildup or a funky smell in your laundry due to oils not being removed thoroughly. This post was last modified 12/11/2025 - it now emphasizes the How of Spa Day instead of including the Why And When. You're Not Alone r/Laundry gets many posts a day about strange odors and persistent greasy stains. Many people recommend this technique or a variation thereof to get textiles suffering from these extremely common problems back to a clean fresh state. What In The Hell Is Spa Day? Spa Day is an intensive enzymatic reset process for textiles that have developed specific stubborn problems related to oily buildup, that won’t wash out in one or two typical washes with optimal product and program selection. It uses concentrated solutions of specific components to degrade oily soils, detach them from fibers and rinse them away. First the items are soaked in the Spa Day soak and then they are washed in the washer in a Rehab Wash to remove the things the Spa Day soak loosened up. There’s an entire post about What, Why & Why Not at What Is Spa Day? How To Spa Day What Do You Need? Container and Chemistry Holding It Together - You need a suitable container. Stainless steel, ceramic, glass or plastic containers large enough to hold the affected textiles but small enough to require a modest quantity of water are best. I am partial to beer coolers, as they hold heat for a long time and often have a drain spigot. If you’re using fragranced products and are concerned about your cooler retaining the perfumes or odor from the textiles, line it with a heavy garbage bag before adding the solution. Front Loading washing machines, even with soak cycles, are not amenable to Spa Day as you can’t keep the items submerged. If your Top Loading washing machine can do high volume soaking (with everything not just damp, but completely submerged) for 8-12 hours, that's a fine option as well, but you're using 20 gallons of water to do it and 5 cups of detergent is expensive. The smallest practical container that will completely submerge the items is the better, more economical answer. Please Don’t Use The Bathtub! - It’s much harder to keep the items submerged in a bathtub and they cool off much faster than in a container with less exposed surface area. The heat helps the chemistry work overnight. You don’t need any room for the items or solution to circulate. You just need the items saturated and submerged. If You Want To Keep The Bath Heated - sous vide circulators or a warming plate or similar gentle heat maintenance can improve Spa Day results if you’re not using a cooler or similar insulated container. Set your bath temperature to maintain 120F/50C - do not exceed 150F/65C as it damages the enzymes before they are exhausted. Chemistry - It’s As Easy As LOAD (formerly A,B,C,L)! Broadly you need four chemistry components; this can take two or three different products, depending on your personal preferences: Lipase - an enzyme that biologically cuts oils from animal or vegetable sources into four smaller pieces that detergent can more easily remove Oxygen - color-safe oxygen bleach lightens stains and rips up odor molecules Ammonia - a gas-in-water booster to improve oily soil removal and help surfactants remove oils from fibers Detergency - surfactants to attach degraded oil to water and rinse it away from the fibers The catch is, no one product can contain all four letters. They’re incompatible for storage, so it takes either two or three products to tick all the boxes. Give Me An A! - Ammonia No matter what other chemistry decisions you make, you will need a source of A - Ammonia, any 2-25% solution of ammonium hydroxide will work. Clear, sudsy or lemon doesn’t matter - it’s the ammonia that counts, not the additives. In the US and Canada it’s typically sold in large plastic jugs in the cleaning products aisle with window and hard surface cleaners, usually on the bottom shelf. It’s also available at home improvement and hardware stores. Outside the US and Canada it may be more easily found in hardware stores than grocers and hypermarkets. The most common brand available in the US is Walmart’s Great Value Clear Ammonia, found on the bottom shelf, under the window and floor cleaners. You will use 2 cups of 2% solution, 1 cup of 5% solution, 1/2 cup of 10% solution or 3T of 25% solution. A Note About Ammonia and Bleach: I’m frequently asked about the hazards of mixing ammonia and bleach. These are real. For chlorine bleach liquids or tablets, the risks of mixing with ammonia are injury and death. That’s what the dire warnings about mixing ammonia and bleach are about - chlorine bleaches, like Clorox or Cloralen. Mixing chlorine bleach and ammonia forms chloramine, a hazardous compound that can injure lung tissue with relatively minor exposure. Don't do that. Ever. You shouldn’t mix full-strength liquid ammonia with dry oxygen booster either, especially in a sealed container, as it will burst as it releases ammonia gas. This is why the instructions for Rehab Wash are very careful to minimize contact between dry powders containing oxygen bleach and the ammonia liquid. The risk from mixing ammonia and oxygen bleaches diluted in water, as used in this method, are limited to getting it on your hair and waiting 45 minutes to an hour, at which point you will be a brassy blonde. Or blond, if you’re a dude. Ammonia + peroxide is the secret of bottle blondes everywhere. It’s perfectly safe. I’m not out here trying to kill people. Follow the method directions below carefully. L, O & D - You Have Choices This has historically been the source of the most questions about the process. Hence why each of the four options has been split out into a separate linked document. Choose an approach before proceeding. Measurements for each component in both stages are in the linked document, along with regional example products. Option 1 - Complete Powder/Tablet in the Spa Day Soak, Complete Powder/Tablet + Liquid Ammonia In Rehab Wash Option 2 - Complete Booster Powders for Spa Day Soak, Complete Booster Powder + Any Detergent + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Option 3 - Lipase Detergent + Added Oxygen Booster in Spa Day Soak, Lipase Detergent + Added Oxygen Booster + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Option 4 - *NEW* Enzyme Booster + Any Detergent In Spa Day Soak, Enzyme Booster + Any Detergent + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Next Stop, Canyon Ranch - It's Time For Your Clothes To Have A Spa Day - The Soak Step S1 - Prepare The Textiles - Sort the affected textiles generally by color - it’s best practice to use separate soaks and washes for at least darks, colors, and whites + neutrals. Red cottons are notorious for bleeding color throughout their lives, so consider soaking them entirely separately. Step S2 - Prepare The Spa Day Solution - dissolve the Spa Day Soak components in hottest possible tap water (up to 140F/60C) and stir until completely dissolved using a wood, plastic or stainless steel implement. You must ensure that all of the granules of the powder are completely dissolved before adding the fabrics. Failure to do so can result in permanent discoloration of items. If you’re unsure if your powder components have fully dissolved, wait five minutes and stir again. The single biggest source of textile damage from Spa Day occurs when product is not completely dissolved and the wet particles settle on clothing causing focal bleaching. This is most common with Vanish/Resolve/Napisan powders in Option 2 chemistry, but all products with TAED are at risk of this side effect. Be especially careful to stir any foam back down into the bath if you're using Vanish/Resolve/Napisan , as fine particles can be suspended in the foam. You will not add any liquid ammonia in this step, regardless of which chemistry option you choose. Step S3 - Add The Textiles - submerge the textiles completely in the Spa Day solution, squeezing and pressing to ensure complete saturation. Textiles need to be completely underwater for the duration of the Spa Day soak. A ceramic plate or mug, or white cotton towels are an excellent way to keep items submerged. Covering the container to keep the heat in longer improves results. Step S4 - Relax And Enjoy Better Things For Better Living Through The Miracle Of Science- Soak 8-12 hours. Just let the process work. No need to stir. Watch cat videos or something. Step S5 - Drain - Drain the textiles. Don’t wring or twist or particularly try to dewater the textiles. Send Those Dirty, Dirty Textiles Straight To Rehab To Clean Up Their Acts! - The Rehab Wash(es) Now it’s time to wash off what the Spa Day soak has loosened up. Enter the Rehab Wash. Step W1 - Load Dry Powders & Liquid Detergent In The Machine - using the dosages and products described in Options 1-4 above, place any liquid detergent components in the dispenser of your machine (if so equipped) and place any powders either in the dispenser configured for powder (if only using powders) or in the bottom of the wash basket. Do not combine liquid and powder ingredients in the dispenser. If you have no detergent dispensers, place the powders and any liquid detergent in different sections of the wash basket so they don’t form clumps. Step W2 - Load Drained Textiles In The Machine - Place a load worth of damp, drained textiles in the machine. For front loaders, this is typically about 75% of the way up the glass when damp. For top-load machines, use as many pieces as you would typically wash, accounting that they will take up less space while sodden. Step W3 - Add The Ammonia - Pour the dose of the A - Ammonia liquid directly on the textiles - the amount ranges from 3T to 2 cups depending on concentration. Most household ammonia in the US and Canada is around 4-5%, so you’ll use 1 cup/250 mL. Do not pour the A - Ammonia in the washer first, nor pour it directly on any powdered products. If you're using a top-load washer, and you're concerned about ammonia odors, allow the washer to fill completely and then pour the ammonia directly into the water. Step W4 - Wash - It's important to start the wash quickly after the textiles are loaded - the powder they're touching is water-activated, and you don't want damp concentrated powder on the items for very long. Wash with a heavy duty cycle, warm or hot water as appropriate for the fabrics, and set the soil level as high as possible to extend the wash process if possible. Choose as many extra rinses as available to reduce any residue left behind. Do not add fabric softener, scent beads, chlorine bleach, borax, washing soda, v1negar, live animals or your hopes and dreams to the wash process. You may add citric acid or v1negar to the softener dispenser to reduce the final pH of the clothing. Please note: Rehab Wash may produce ammonia odors, especially in conventional top-loading machines - in fact, it may smell like the Windex factory exploded. Don’t worry - these fumes will disappear when the fabric is dry. Ammonia is a gas in water; it will evaporate completely leaving nothing behind. You may want to crack a window, turn on a vent fan or avoid the area while washing. People vary substantially in their tolerance of ammonia fumes. Step W5 - Dry - If you’re treating stains or visible underarm buildup, hang to dry when the cycle completes. If you’re treating odors, you may tumble dry on delicate/low heat until mostly dry, but hang to finish, just in case there is a lingering odor. It’s MUCH more effective to rewash when the lingering bits haven’t been baked in with thorough high-temperature drying. Step W6 - Evaluate - If visible stains or perceptible odor remain, you may need to repeat the rehab washes. Start from Step W1 of Rehab Wash If the stains or odors aren’t removed within three rehab washes, they may be permanent and they may not be oil stains at all. Please see Polyquat Spots for details on a common cause of oily-looking stains that can’t be removed by conventional methods. Step W7 - Bask In Your Success - Your textiles should now be clean to touch, feel and smell. Nice work! Keeping It Clean - Maintenance washes: Regular use of any laundry product with lipase (see The Lipase List for a link to a spreadsheet with a maintained list of products) will remove oily stains and prevent buildup and odors. All oily soil removal is improved by using at least a warm / 40C cycle and residue removal is improved by using an acidic rinse product like Downy Rinse Out Odor, Gain Rinse & Renew, Tide Boost, citric acid or v1negar. Citric Rinsing has details on residue-removal rinsing. Pretreating spots and stains with a pretreater or liquid detergent with lipase can virtually guarantee first-wash removal - see the pretreater tab on the sheet linked from The Lipase List ). A Note About Authorship: This work, like all other original-content posts on Reddit, is the property of the original poster, and commercial reuse of the work requires permission from the author, not just attribution. If you’d like to request permission, drop me a chat or email me - [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

I'm noticing a lot of new "perfume" brands popping up that are just fragrance oils bottled with alcohol. I don't mind if that's what people are wanting and hey, YOU DO YOU and buy whatever you want.... but I'm personally not wanting to spend that money on upcharged candle oils. I have tried a bunch of brands that I am pretty sure just rebottle Doop fragrance oils..Just look up "FLUFF" on their website. Some of these brands don't even change the description or fragrance notes, so it's pretty obvious. But you know what, get that bag~! I'm just personally tired of spending money on these bottles and realizing afterwards, so if you know of any other brands like this, can you share with me?? Some are more obvious...like any brands that have more than 20+ scents available....and FOR SURE the ones with dupes. I can almost guarantee these are all just premixed blends. Here are some of my finds...for legal reasons, this is just my personal opinion...but which other brands should I look out for? Let me know if you feel the same way about any of these brands in case I got it wrong? What The Fluff by Aspiring Aromas Parfums by Cherie Coco & Rose Scents by Arri Heaven Scent by Shannon Hey Sugar Fragrance Pixie Spell Essentials CJ Scents Andromeda's Moon DUA Prty Grl Beauty Sugar Milk Co EDIT: My "proof" is in the comments but it's downvoted LOL so it's hidden...but yeah...do your own research and just google it. I'm not finna tryna hold everyone's hand and go thru every scent from every brand with yall. And all yall cult followers....stay mad!!! but hey get that bag for getting influencer codes from these brands LOL :P submitted by /u/whitelotusboba to r/FemFragLab [link] [comments]

Hey everyone. I need a HUUUUUGE favor, if you could help me with this. I've been through the wiki, I'm kind of looking for personal opinion about your trusted and favorite place to buy perfume oils from In terms of Concentration Accuracy of the fragrance Pocket friendly Shipping costs/time or any other reason why it's better, basically. I would be sooooooo grateful submitted by /u/Comfortable-Mouse737 to r/PerfumeOils [link] [comments]

https://preview.redd.it/3ghzxuxakihd1.jpg?width=3375&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d6c3b2e74ef0b20f05049eb6e0d4bab4ce1485db submitted by /u/Mayjayjade to r/FemFragLab [link] [comments]

So one thing I’ve realized with my perfume oil journey is that no one can smell me!!! My friend was like oh you should smell good all the time but I don’t think anyone smells anything with the oils I put on which I guess is okay because it’s supposed to be for you but I feel like I buy too much perfume to never get the “oh you smell good” impact. I’ve tried a lot of your tips with placement and it’s still pretty faint. Is it the houses? The way I’m doing it? Or do I just need to focus on sprays? submitted by /u/Dependent_Answer2603 to r/Indiemakeupandmore [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/thekrouz to r/Indiemakeupandmore [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Comfortable-Good8623 to r/DIYfragrance [link] [comments]

I bought this perfume oil from my local hair shop for only £2 and ever since I’ve been wearing it, I received so many compliments (which rarely happens to me 😅). It’s a sweet, floral that’s a little bit soapy and lasts for a long time! Don’t sleep on oils, they can project and last just as long as regular perfumes and they’re so cheap! submitted by /u/queenshans to r/FemFragLab [link] [comments]

I'm a moderate participant in the world of "indie" (small batch, usually single maker, usually natural or naturally-based) perfumes. For perfume lovers, the world of indie fragrances can often be a major revelation---highly unusual scents, custom scents, and fandom scents--usually at very affordable prices compared to niche designer fragrances. There are a few older major players such as Nocturnal Alchemy and Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, but every few months or so, a fresh "house" enters the scene usually through etsy and Instagram. Generally the routine follows a well-trodden path: a launch announcement with giveaways, small fanfare, and samples. A few people test it out, then come back with glowing reviews. Then more and more people hop on the bandwagon and start the hype train. Soon the "resale" market is established with people looking for rare or limited edition scents. Soon the new house is everywhere and everyone is trying them out. For a house with established business best practices and/or marketing experience + no personal challenges this is the best case scenario. But about half the time, there's a spectacular flame out that results in TONS of drama. (and that usually follows a well-trodden path too---flailing, blaming emergencies, a well-timed distraction, cross-accusations, and then a tearful retreat/flounce. This is all conducted under an absolute hail of back and forth from skeptics/the 'I told you so' crowd and rabid fans) This is one of those second kind of stories. Alphamusk launches September 2019. Shoppers are immediately taken by the maker's deft hand with scent blends. Alphamusk gets tons of positive attention in the form of gushing reviews on specific subReddits [that I won't link to as to avoid brigading] that cover these things. Alphamusk starts pumping out collections with dozens of options. She also offers a complicated custom fragrance option with what turns out to be, mathematically, hundreds/thousands of options. By July of the next year, close to 300 perfumes were being offered for sale. One key aspect of the popularity of this house is the super-approachable price point. The owner was offering 5ML for like $8 or similar. Most indie fragrances are about $25 per 5ML plus $8 or so for shipping. A combination of "dollar sign eyes" and FOMO and hype meant an absolute feeding frenzy started occurring on the etsy page. An important note here is that for most indie sellers of hand-blended perfumes, the perfumes are made to order. So it's not like there's a big jug of "Strawberry Madness" or whatever laying around and they just pour it into a 5ML amber vial and go. Blending the master jug takes 2-4 hours generally once the formula has been developed. I will say that I checked out the house around this time on etsy. I recall being put off by the owner's very casual use of celebrity or entertainer's intellectual property (such as using their name, image, or likeness) for profit and that turned me off the house completely. I decided I had enough stinkies in my collection and moved on. I foolishly did not draw this to anyone's attention, because it felt like crappy pearl-clutching and me being a prude and a hall monitor. I now wish I had because it was (to me) a pretty clear indication that the maker on at least one level, believed the rules of business engagement did not apply to her. Meanwhile, the house was starting to have serious rumbles of concern from buyers that were seeing huge turnaround times (TAT as it's called) and delayed shipments. In January the owner quietly admitted in a few forums that she was overwhelmed with orders and struggling. The owner feinted towards putting the shop on hiatus in July 2020 but the proposed hiatus start date came and went with no hiatus. Meanwhile hundreds of orders were pouring in. About 3 months ago, the maker announced that she would make a spin-off page that offered "ready to ship" pre-made scents. At that time, the owner claimed they were still conceptualizing and making new scents, despite disquieting rumors that they were absolutely buried in orders. About 60 days ago, concerning reports started tricking into the subReddit. "Is the etsy page down?" "Has anyone else been waiting 5 months?" "At what point do you ask for your money back through a dispute?" "Are these scents really worth this 4-month wait?" Cue the fireworks. About half the crowd was initially extremely sympathetic to the maker. To her credit at the time, she explained she was having a family emergency and closed and reopened the shop on etsy a few times to catch up. The buyers who had gotten purchases rallied on her side. Another set of buyers still waiting for their treasured scents decides to just wait it out, after all...she's a single maker, she's a small house, etc. It felt like at this time the very beginnings of a...cult-like worship and defense of the maker was congealing. Just about a month ago, the fireworks landed on a gasoline factory when a fairly new to the scene indie maker of his own perfume line joined the fray with some hard, cold math and numbers. (He also used the phrase "horse-puckey" which made me biased towards him in the positive). Owners of indie perfumes are welcome in the subReddit and often post ask me anything, new launches, or explainers, as well as popping in to comment as owners. He pointed out in a scathing comment that got both many awards and the eternal hatred of super-fans: "According to the Alpha Musk Etsy shop which was also opened in 2019, and has been closed since September 12, 2020 "TO CATCH UP ON ORDER BACKLOG", the Alpha Musk Etsy shop has made 7560 sales. This thread [in the hobby subReddit] features an Instagram post in order to crosspost the update about order fulfillment for those who do not have Instagram; that post announces that this previous WEEK Alpha Musk processed orders that "contain a total of just over 600ml of perfume, or over 20 ounces)." This was for 23 orders, a fact based on the order numbers posted in the pictures and referenced to in the body text. So, let's look at this two ways: Let's say that 7560 SALES equals 7560 ORDERS. At a rate of 23 orders per week, it would take 328 weeks, or 6.32 years, to fulfill all those orders. Let's instead say that 7560 SALES equals 7560 5ml items. If process throughput per week is around 600ml, or 120 x 5ml units, 7560 sales as 5ml items equals 63 weeks, or 1.2 years to process all that merchandise. Again, I'm speaking up as a brand owner because: these kinds of activities are improper; they are characteristic of Ponzi schemes (making future sales to fulfill previous transactions when the inventory never existed to begin with); and, for those here who are at risk of losing their right to make claims for refund, these snowballing promises are potentially, greatly damaging to the goodwill and trust of the community at-large — especially for newbies — as well as on the precipice of financial loss for many." Someone pointed out that etsy counts each item in the order as an order in a confusing system to count "order" so the "math guy" re-calculated: "7,560 sales is the figure on AM's shop page for the entire time it's been operational, but a sale isn't the same thing as an order for Etsy's accounting purposes and this does not reflect the total number of orders. Based on this seller's explanation of the system, an order with 20 items in it can be counted as anywhere from 1-20 sales depending on the number of shop listings that were in each order. That means the sales figure vastly overestimates the number of orders she has had since opening and what she would have had at closing, but may undercount how many items were ordered. It also means that the six year time estimate given for all of her orders since opening to be fulfilled is likely much too high. If we assume that the 600mL figure from Friday corresponds to 23 orders completed (in a week's time as implied), that's about 26mL per order or 5 standard bottles and a sample so let's call it 5-6 sales for simplicity. 7560 sales ÷ ~5-6 sales/order = ~1260-1512 orders since opening. That tracks decently well with the 967 orders AM says were outstanding at closing time, since she obviously filled many (but not enough) orders since opening, but that her rate of order filling was truly bad before making changes and closing shop: (~1260 - 967) orders filled ÷ 43 weeks being open = just under 7 orders filled week. 1260 orders at that rate is a workload of a bit over 3.5 years of orders to fill in less than a year of being open. If we use the higher order count estimate, that's closer to 13 orders/week and about 2 years and four months of workload she was handling alone. Both of these estimates still indicate a huge problem for her business pre-changes, but definitely less of one." Cue the meltdown. The comment section exploded and set off many other "I'm new to the party, WHAT just happened?!" threads for a few weeks afterwards. The hobby was divided between people who argued that another indie perfume seller had no right (and in fact it was sus as hell) to drill into someone's business like that and quibbled with the numbers repeatedly, and the other half who expressed relief that someone had called the Emperor on their lack of clothing, so to speak, and pointed out that there was no possible way people were getting their smellies from that maker and strongly encouraged buyers to make a PayPal, etsy, or credit card claim if they still could. One very concerning aspect of this is that once you cross a certain time threshold, usually about 90 days, from purchase, credit card, etsy, and PayPal claims become very difficult to make and prove. So the owner asking for people to wait for 4-5-6 months TAT felt to some like a way to evade the credit card chargeback window or etsy claim window. The owner tried to mitigate some of the damage just prior to that explosion by bringing customer service helpers called "gnomes" to answer emails and handle other admin tasks while the owner concentrated on filling her huge volume of orders. Heartening IG posts went out with batch lists of what orders the maker was working on at that time. In late August there were 600 outstanding orders in queue. About 30-60 days later, the gnomes left, and the owner was on social media directly blaming critical comments for making them leave. From that point forward, it was a battle between the owner and critics, with the owner apparently lurking or otherwise seeing the subReddit comments and directly responding and referencing them in IG rants and veiled threats/meltdowns. Another brand owner came on a "what's going on with Alphamusk?" thread and sympathetically but firmly explained their own process that takes tons of time and pointed out that the pandemic was causing huge delays in product sourcing and shipping, but ultimately conceded that sweeping changes to Alphamusk's business model were needed to stay afloat. About 25 days ago, the etsy shop closed with no clear indication of a plan on how the owner would be fulfilling the huge backlog of orders. The owner's IG page went to private amidst somewhat-baseless legal threats and the subReddit removed most comments that included screenshots, just to be on the safe side. *There was also a really ugly muck-raking incident involving the "math" shop owner but I don't want to open that all up again so I'll just reference that it happened as part of this huge drama and leave it at that. Finally the mods from the subReddit came on with an ominous (but necessary) PSA "Your rights as a consumer" at the top of every thread that revolved around the shop. The subReddit had to update their rules around arguing and targeting those critical of the shop. (Which started it's own little fireworks show, naturally). It's been a RIDE y'all! If you have a weird feeling about an etsy shop or indie seller for any reason, trust your gut, y'all! There are many established makers and transparent, honest, and trustworthy makers. It's a shame that a few bad apples cast a bruise on the industry at large. submitted by /u/Chazzyphant to r/HobbyDrama [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Impatient_Optimist to r/todayilearned [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/TwoTheVictor to r/todayilearned [link] [comments]