Portable Power Bank

I’ve gone through a few power banks over the last year, and honestly… every single one of them started dying after like 2 months. Battery wouldn’t hold charge, slow charging, or just completely useless. So now I’m trying to find a power bank that’s actually BIFL quality. I need something that can charge multiple devices at the same time mainly my iPhone and my laptop when I’m traveling or working outside. A lot of the “top rated” ones claim to be the best power bank, but they struggle even with basic use. What I’m really looking for is a best portable power bank that’s reliable long-term. Something that can work as a best power bank for iPhone, but also strong enough to charge a laptop without draining instantly. Basically a best power bank charger that actually lasts more than a couple months. If anyone here has found a power bank that truly lasts, I’d love to hear recommendations. 🙏 submitted by /u/OdranedGame to r/BuyItForLife [link] [comments]

Just got this a while again Is it perfectly fine , overkill Or has anyone had issues with product submitted by /u/Delscorchx to r/SteamDeck [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Aniyettinger to r/NeverKnewINeededThat [link] [comments]

Hello r/arduino! In this post, I want to share my project that I've been working on in the past few months. It's a custom-designed power bank that I engineered specifically to satisfy my requirements for a truly versatile portable power source. Here are the key features: 4S8P 18650 battery configuration (up to 414 Wh with 3500 mAh cells) Compact 290x175x45 mm form factor and weighs 2.4 kg Arduino control and automation with ESP32-C3 microcontroller Informative 1.3” OLED display with intuitive 3-way navigation button Customisable APO (auto power off) function STA and AP Wi-Fi function for OTA firmware flashing Programmable bidirectional DC port (up to 20V 6A) based on SC8812A chip Constant voltage and constant current regulation in output mode Adaptive charging current in input mode or automatic tracking in MPPT mode 100W bidirectional USB-C port based on IP2368 chip Quad 36W USB-C output port based on XPM52C chip 150W AC mains output 400W+ (30A) direct battery access over XT60 Thermal optimised design with temperature monitoring and active cooling Overload and overcurrent protections on all outputs with redundancy I made this power bank mainly for extended outdoor uses, including camping, picnic, and FPV field charging. I've been using the power bank for those cases in the last few weeks without any issues, so I'm ready to share this project. All resources are available on my Github repository: https://github.com/Luq1308/Omnibus4X8 Build documentation is available on my YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhzdnEUCXjU I'd love to hear your thoughts on this project. Or maybe you have some questions in mind. Let us know and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you. submitted by /u/Luq1308 to r/arduino [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Delicious_Maize9656 to r/Switch [link] [comments]

This just got verified by Guinness World Records as the smallest mini PC capable of running a 100B parameter model locally. The Hardware Specs (Slide 2): RAM: 80 GB LPDDR5X (This is the bottleneck breaker for local LLMs). Compute: 160 TOPS dNPU + 30 TOPS iNPU. Power: ~30W TDP. Size: 142mm x 80mm (Basically the size of a large power bank). Performance Claims: Runs GPT-OSS 120B locally. Decoding Speed: 20+ tokens/s. First Token Latency: 0.5s. Secret Sauce: They aren't just brute-forcing it. They are using a new architecture called "TurboSparse" (dual-level sparsity) combined with "PowerInfer" to accelerate inference on heterogeneous devices. It effectively makes the model 4x sparser than a standard MoE (Mixture of Experts) to fit on the portable SoC. We are finally seeing hardware specifically designed for inference rather than just gaming GPUs. 80GB of RAM in a handheld form factor suggests we are getting closer to "AGI in a pocket." submitted by /u/BuildwithVignesh to r/singularity [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/The_Duc_Lord to r/australia [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/sloppyrock to r/QantasAirways [link] [comments]

I am going to be camping in the back of my 4Runner next weekend and I am looking to buy a power bank that can last 2 days without being charged. I'm going to be using a heated blanket and charging my phone mainly. Heated bank would be used just to say warm at night and charge my on when I really need to. Now I found this. Is this over kill? Or would this last the weekend camping trip? submitted by /u/MrBiscuits93 to r/camping [link] [comments]

Okay, so I just picked up the new iPhone Air MagSafe battery and… wow. I’ve owned my fair share of portable chargers, but this thing feels totally different. Let me break it down: What I love: The ridiculous thinness: It’s only 3,000mAh, so yeah, it makes sense, but this is hands down the thinnest portable battery I’ve ever held. It feels less like a chunky power bank and more like slipping a slim wallet or card holder into your pocket. With bigger packs I usually debate whether to even bring them, but this one? I just throw it in my pocket without thinking. The soft-touch material: the attaching side isn’t rough or plasticky—it’s smooth, almost luxurious. Actually feels good against your hand/skin. It charges AirPods wirelessly: Didn’t expect it to work, but it does. Super handy. The design details:The charging light hides behind translucent plastic, so it glows subtle and clean instead of screaming “cheap blinking LED.” Legit one of the nicest-looking power banks I’ve ever seen. Size vs. a regular pack: Put it next to my 10,000mAh Anker brick and the difference is insane—this thing is dramatically slimmer and way easier to carry. The cons: $100 for 3,000mAh is… yeah, steep. You can grab 25,000mAh bricks for the same price. No wireless recharge for the battery itself (no MagSafe puck support). USB-C only. No real battery indicator—just orange when dying, green when charged. No idea how much is left unless you guess. Pretty much exclusive to the iPhone Air. Doesn’t really fit other devices. At 3,000mAh it’s not a heavy-use solution. If you’re traveling or powering multiple devices, you’ll still want a bigger 10,000mAh+ pack. Overall: If you’re an iPhone Air user who likes to travel light, this thing is perfect. Apple clearly leaned into slimness with the phone, and this accessory nails the same vibe -tiny boost, premium feel, disappears in your pocket. I’ll still pack my bigger brick for long trips, but for daily carry? This one’s staying with me. submitted by /u/DanburyHer to r/apple [link] [comments]

TL:DR I made an offline, off-grid, self-powered, locally-hosted AI server using Google AI Edge Gallery, with Gemma3:4b running on an XREAL Beam Pro. It’s powered by a $50 MQOUNY solar / hand crank / USB power bank. I used heavy duty 3M Velcro-like picture hanging strips to hold it all together. I’m storing it all in a Faraday Cage Bag in case of EMPs (hope those never happen). I created a GitHub repo with the full parts list and DIY instructions here: https://github.com/porespellar/SERVE-AI-VAL-Box Ok, ok, so “built” is maybe too strong a word for this. It was really more just combining some hardware and software products together. I’m not a “doomsday prepper” but I recognize the need for having access to a Local LLM in emergency off-grid situations where you have no power and no network connectivity, Maybe you need access to medical, or survival knowledge, or whatever, and perhaps a local LLM could provide relevant information. So that’s why I took on this project. That, and I just like tinkering around with fun tech stuff like this. My goal was to build a portable AI-in-a-box that: Is capable of running at least one LLM or multiple LLMs at an acceptable generation speed (preferably 2+ tk/ps) Requires absolutely no connectivity (after initial provisioning of course) Is handheld, extremely portable, and ruggedized if possible Accepts multiple power sources (Solar, hand-crank, AC/DC, etc.) and provides multiple power output types Has a camera, microphone, speaker, and touch screen for input Doesn’t require any separate cords or power adapters that aren’t already attached / included in the box itself Those were the basic requirements I made before I began my research. Originally, I wanted to do the whole thing using a Raspberry Pi device with an AI accelerator, but the more I thought about it, I realized that an android-mini tablet or a budget unlocked android phone would probably be the best and easiest option. It’s really the perfect form factor and can readily run LLMs, so why reinvent the wheel when I could just get a cheap mini android tablet (XREAL Beam Pro - see my repo for full hardware details). The second part of the solution was I wanted multiple power sources with a small form factor that closely matched the tablet / phone form factor. After a pretty exhaustive search, I found a Lithium battery power bank that had some really unique features. It had a solar panel, and a hand crank for charging, it included 3 built-in cords for power output, 2 USB types for power input, it even had a bonus flashlight, and was ruggedized and waterproof. I’ve created a GitHub repository where I’ve posted the full part needed list, pictures, instructions for assembly, how to set up all the software needed, etc. Here’s my GitHub: https://github.com/porespellar/SERVE-AI-VAL-Box I know it’s not super complex or fancy, but I had fun building it and thought it was worth sharing in case anyone else was considering something similar. If you have any questions about it. Please feel free to ask. submitted by /u/Porespellar to r/LocalLLaMA [link] [comments]

Need help submitted by /u/yaarwhy to r/IndiaTech [link] [comments]

Haters gonna hate but you can portable any gaming console now. Not necessarily this setup I have. But for the price of a PS5 Pro, before the price hike, you can buy 1 Series S (buy used to cut on cost) 1 Portable Power station (decent option for

submitted by /u/lIlI1lII1Il1Il to r/savedyouaclick [link] [comments]

Now, while I'm new to this subreddit, one thing I have noticed is the question of portability of the Wii U, and while I knew that something like this is completely feasible with using an appropriate power bank, I had no idea it would be this easy until another user was asking about using a USB C cable they bought. To give you a little background on the wonders of USB C power supplies, many of them have the ability to put out anywhere from 5 Volts DC to a little over 20 Volts DC, which is important as the Wii U Console requires 15 Volts DC to operate. They are able to do this because there is a small electrical circuit in the device that tells the power supply what voltage it needs to deliver. This is known as Power Delivery and one of the things you'll want to look for when using a USB C Power Supply or Power Bank. The default output for these power supplies and banks if they don't get that signal is 5 Volts. Now, a Wii U Console doesn't have that circuit in it so the only two ways I thought this would be achievable would be either to mod the Console to have a USB C port that has a fixed 15 volt or adjustable voltage Power Delivery Circuit, or incorporate one of those circuits into a cable. But it turns out there are cables already out there such as the "Mcbazel 2 Meters Type C Power Chager Cable Charging Cord for Wii U Only" that'll plug into the Wii U Console and trigger the 15 volt output, but before I hooked this thing up to my console, I wanted to make sure it was putting out 15 Volts, and sure enough it does (4th picture, please excuse the setup as I misplaced my good multimeter). Once I confirmed the voltage was correct, I hooked this up to my Anker 737 Power Bank and as you can see in the photos it fired up with no problems. One thing I noticed while playing Wind Waker is that the Console was hovering around 25 Watts regardless if I was playing on the TV or just on the GamePad, and if I unplugged the HDMI cable from the TV it had no impact on the Wattage usage. Additionally on my Console that has an external hard drive and Y cable it was closer to 28 Watts, and using the vWii and a disk it was running in the low 30 Watts. As you can see from the output on the Anker, which is able to store 24,000 mAh of energy and deliver it at 140 Watts, I could run Zelda the Wind Waker for over 2 1/2 hours. Now, if you do this there are a couple of things to consider when selecting a power supply and/or power bank. The first is that the power device has USB C with Power Delivery, because as I mentioned before if it does not have that capability the default is only 5 Volts. The other is that it has enough Amperage/Wattage output. The original power supply for the Wii U Console lists that it has the ability to put out 15 Volts DC at 5 Amps and using the Watt Calculation P(watts) = V(volts) * I(amps) we get 75W = 15V * 5A, so you'll want to find a Power Supply/Power Bank that can output a minimum of 75 Watts to match what the original power supply can. Odds are low that you'll max it out, even if you were to play the most graphics intense game on the Wii U using a disk, but it's better to be safe and have enough output because not good things can happen to electronics when you don't give them enough power. I would also suggest buying one from a better known brand. Some other things to consider if you do this is you don't just want to grab your console and throw it into a bag and start playing away. The console has a fan and requires ventilation and if you have the vents restricted it can overheat. Likewise I would highly advise against playing any games that require disks while you're on the move, the drives weren't designed for that. If you do want to use this in a car and get one of the power adapters that plug into a cigarette lighter socket, I would pair it with a power bank which could then be used as a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) in case the adapter comes lose in the socket or the car is turned off as many cars these days don't leave those sockets powered on all the time. submitted by /u/RulerOfTheRest to r/wiiu [link] [comments]

I bought a magsafe magnet from amazon and added a magesafe anker 5000mah pwer bank. Works wonders! submitted by /u/salz93 to r/SteamDeck [link] [comments]

So far the system has been working well. I have a dc cig plug that charges the power bank when the vans running/idling. I'm experimenting with charging off the van when the engine is off in between stops. (So far half hour has worked) when the suns shining and I'm parked I bust the panels out if needed. The iceco freezer is working well and maintaining fridge temps without running much due to no aux heater (yet) currently it's holding 60lbs of deer meat at the perfect aging temp. I figure I can fit 3-4 full size critters in there once I process the meat down. submitted by /u/GoneOffTheGrid365 to r/vandwellers [link] [comments]

UPDATE 4/2026: Veektomx has recalled the exact model mentioned in this post (VT103) sold on Amazon between January and September 2024. If you bought this power bank you should stop using it and order a free replacement. My current recommendation is the INIU P50-E1. It weighs 5.6 oz, outputs up to 45W, inputs 20W so it charges in ~2 hours, has a percentage display and three USB ports, and costs $30. It has slightly lower capacity than the Veektomx, but is otherwise superior. UPDATE 7/2024: I have tested this new Anker power bank which charges with a built-in plug at 30W with passthrough charging. It only has a built in USB C cable and one USB C port, but it is otherwise superior to the Anker reviewed in this post. It's 2oz heavier and less versatile than a standalone system, so judge whether that's worth it for faster charging. I'm getting back on the PCT in a few weeks, so I decided to spend a couple days looking at what's out there right now. This spreadsheet has become outdated, with many of the options no longer available, and Nitecore not an option for me. If you love Nitecore, great, I'm happy for you. I've seen too many reliability issues on trail, it only has 2 ports, no display, and it's ridiculously expensive for what you get. A note about price and reliability: none of these power banks are meant to take the abuse we put them through on a thru hike, so I can't fault any of them for failing in the field. However, when they do, you don't have time for a warranty replacement, you need a new power bank immediately and affordably. Preferably, it needs to be at your next town stop in a couple days via Amazon Prime and cost no more than $30ish. The next most popular recommendation as of late is the Anker Nano. It charges at 30W, and will take about 1.5 hours to fully charge. It also has a built-in cable and two ports so you can charge up to 3 devices at once. Cost is currently $35 and weight is 7.7 oz. However, you need to buy a 30W wall plug and any extra cables you need. It's also the clunkiest size; small and thick. This is...okay, but the major issue for me is that it doesn't do pass through charging. So I can't just hook everything up and forget about it; I need to charge it first and then charge my devices or use a multi-port plug or multiple plugs. This is a huge hassle, added weight, and cost. This is the option for you if you prioritize faster charge times and value a reliable brand name, but I don't know if it's worth the drawbacks. Next, I looked at the Veektomx, the overall best power bank out there right now in terms of price, size, weight, and technology according to this recent video. The Veektomx is currently $22 and weighs 6 oz. That's only slightly heavier than the Nitecore, except it also has a percentage display and an extra port. It'll fully charge in ~3 hours and it does have passthrough charging. I was able to charge from USB C at 19W and (oddly) the micro USB port between 10-15W depending on if I had anything else connected. You do have to carry a wall plug and extra cables, bringing the weight around the same as the other two options and no built-in cables means you can charge at most 2 devices. This is the most viable option if you want the best combination of weight, size, price, and charge time at the cost of fiddlyness with having to switch out more devices to charge everything. And that's it! I looked at literally hundreds of other options, including a lot of higher capacity power banks with better features, but none were worth pursuing due to price, weight, availability, feature set, etc. More pics for comparison. submitted by /u/AceTracer to r/Ultralight [link] [comments]

tl;dr: I've spent over 2,000 miles and almost a decade looking at optimizing solar setups for backpacking. The recent Nitecore 5000 mAh battery release has finally pushed solar ahead of using larger power banks in the American West. Important Update: I can no longer recommend the Nitecore NL2150RX. I have had it catastrophically fail on me. I haven't seen the same, rapid failure for the VapCells, but I am shifting away from my recommendation to use these cells. I'm leaning back toward 18650/other small powerbanks with independent, dedicated discharge and charge ports (~ 3.5 oz). The current one I bought which works acceptably, and comes in at 8oz total. Background I first started using solar in 2014 on a thru-hike of the Colorado Trail. I had a 4,000 mAh power bank built into a plastic case with solar that weighed a whopping 13 oz. It seemed to work well enough for me then, but keep in mind Guthooks didn't exist and I was still using paper maps. Before hiking the PCT in 2018, I spent several months and dozens of hours optimizing my phone and battery setup. This allowed me to entirely avoid larger power banks, and I moved to an optimized, for-purpose 3.4 oz battery solution. I still have not been able to beat this setup for power, which I used for 8,000-ish miles of hiking. My phone has since changed (now on a Samsung Galaxy S20 FE that I hate), making that optimized setup impossible. After changing phones, I moved over to an NB10000 and have around 5,000 miles worth of backpacking with that. In 2020, due to COVID, I decided to re-hike the Colorado trail. I opted for using solar to avoid the amount of time I would need to spend in town, where I would potentially expose myself or others to COVID. After doing dozens of hours of research and testing, I ended up settling on the "10W" Lixada panel (~3.6 oz), and a RAVPower 3500 mAh battery (~2.5 oz). I was amazed by how amazingly this setup worked. I was running a Moto Z4, and I had more power than I knew how to use. I loved never needing to spend time in town charging, and I could listen to audio books all day and film endless video if I felt compelled. It was crazily liberating compared to the NB10000 or Moto PowerPack I had been using previously. I loved that setup so much, that I tried to use the same setup on the CDT. I made it a few hundred miles before the RAVPower's micro-usb port catastrophically failed, and I had to overnight a power bank to my next resupply. Before I move to the new setup I've optimized, let's talk solar pros and cons: Traditional Solar Setup Pros and Cons What's Good About Solar What's Bad About Solar If you're in the American west, you can typically get more energy than you'll be able to use If you hit several days of significant cloud coverage, you may need to modify usage patterns You don't need to spend time in towns waiting for batteries to recharge Setup can be heavier than some power bank configurations (shorter trips) You don't need to be very conservative with battery use between resupplies Solar setups are more finicky than power banks Durability may not be adequate for the use-case I've tried to make solar work for me over a couple thousand miles. The single biggest issue I've had when using solar has taken the form of numerous durability issues and various strain failure points. When running solar, you attach the setup to the outside of your pack. It's a little finicky to get it on there (definitely easier to stow a power bank inside your pack). More importantly, it means the solar setup is directly exposed to the elements, and will literally take a beating. Every time you get something from inside your pack, you'll need to remove the solar setup from the top. When you do that, it ends up casually hanging out on the ground (you could baby it more, but omg.) Things break on the ground. Every time you unplug or plug your power bank in, you add stress on the power bank socket. The stress of connection points and jostling can wreak havoc on delicate USB sockets. On the CT in 2020, I had a USB cable fail (bend stress), and had to purchase a new one in copper mountain. 300 miles into the CDT, the the RAVpower micro-usb socket failed on me, and it could no longer be charged. The panel was fine, but I needed a new power bank, and sent the solar home. Recently on the AZT, I tried to optimize some different cable setups, and the new adapter added strain to the Lixada panel, creating too much torque and ultimately damaging the USB-A output plug ~50 miles in. I taped it and had a very finicky panel for the next 650 miles before abandoning it at the Grand Canyon. Given these experiences, I've done a lot of work optimizing the weight and setup configuration to actually address the durability concern. u/liveslight has a great video of various setups, but the durability concern is not given adequate attention. It's not as large of a concern for shorter hikes. My Optimized Setup Photos can be found here Lixada-equivalent panel. Handle cutoff + CCF (3.6 oz) Nitecore NL2150RX (2.65 oz) (Edit June 2024: I now recommend the VapCell P2150A) 2.5mm Shock Cord and Locks (0.30 oz) USB-C Cable and angle adapters (0.65 oz) Total: ~7.2 oz (can be lowered/raised a bit with different Lixada tolerances, USB-C cables/adapters, and shock cord/locks) There is allegedly a 18650 (NL1835RX) USB-C cell that Nitecore has. I can't find it for purchase except on Alibaba/questionable sites. I estimate this cell, if it really exists, weighs around 1.82 oz, reducing the total weight to 6.37 oz, significantly beating the competition. (Edit June 2024: This 18650 cell does not exist.) The competition: NB10000 Power Bank + equivalent USB-C Cable (5.7 oz) Anker Nano 511 (1.4 oz) Total: ~7.1 oz (Note*: I actually end up using a much longer cord with the NB10000 setup, weighing around 1.5 oz, so that I can use my phone while I charge it in towns. This is an additional 1.15 oz hit over the cord I otherwise feel comfortable using with the solar setup alone. I have not included this larger cord in the 7.1 oz weight listed above*) Feature Discussion and "hacks" The Lixada panel*:* it is a very durable, reliable panel. It does not put out power at 10 watts, but you can anticipate reliable wattage in the 2-4 watt range in the American West. The Nitcore 5000 mAh power bank is an 18 Wh cell, which means it will take about 5-9 hours to fully charge the power bank using the solar panel. That means that after one day of hiking in the American west you will typically have significantly more power available for your needs than if you running the NB10000 (one 5000 mAh cycle + 1 charge). There is some variability in the Lixada panels due to shipments coming from different manufacturers in China. I recently bought a new one from Aliexpress that ended up being slightly heavier than my old panel (3.75 oz vs 3.54 oz). After cutting off the handle with a skillsaw, it came to 3.6-ish oz. I have another panel coming from a different Aliexpress shipper that I expect to be around 3.4 oz (less plastic), further reducing the setup's weight compared to NB10000. The Nitecore NL2150RX: This is the new piece of kit that really brings everything together. You no longer need a 21700/18650 cell charger, and the NL-RX "power bank" is close to the most minimalist "power bank" you can find, being little more than a cell. Because it's now running USB-C, you no longer will need to unplug/re-plug the USB-C cable into the battery to charge your phone. You can just unplug the USB-C cable from the panel, and plug it directly into your phone (why I've used a slightly longer USB-C cable). Shock Cord and Locks: I purchased 2.5 mm shock cord and barrel locks from ropeandcord.com -- this is just about the smallest gauge cord that will reliably hold the battery in place, and keep the panel pretty stable on your pack without needing to worry about things. USB-C Cable and angle adapters: This is key. You need to reduce strain points for the solar panel setup to reduce failure risks. To reduce strain at the USB-C socket on the NL2150RX, I got a right-angle adapter. This adapter enhances durability substantially, as there will be no plug sticking out orthogonally to the body of the battery. It can now lay flat, and there is a much smaller lever arm (torque is reduced) at the USB-C socket. Similarly, I got a 180-degree, U adapter that goes from USB-A to USB-C. I think a better adapter can be found compared to the ones I bought. This adapter I think is less necessary if you use one of the Lixada-like panels, that has the red-LED indicator, as that USB socket is moved in from the edge of the panel quite a bit. Other odds and ends: You'll notice in the pictures that there is some blue CCF on the back of the Lixada panel. When you mount the battery on the back of the panel, it is exposed to sunlight. The panel shades it fairly well, but the heat will transfer through the panel, increasing the likelihood that battery overheating mechanisms will kick-in, disabling charging. I've added CCF to insulate the battery from the solar panel. It seems to be working. Using the cut-off handle from the panel, I cut a few pieces of the remaining plastic and superglued these pieces to the back of the panel at the height that the USB-C cable comes off of the U-bend. This will decrease the lever arm acting on the adapter port, reducing the strain and possible failure of the USB-C port. Similarly, I added a sliver to the USB-C 90-degree adapter I have on the NL2150RX battery. This also acts to reduce the lever arm, further decreasing the risk of damage from impact. Additionally, I folded over about an inch of yellow electric tape and wedged it into the USB-A plug on the panel, between the white plastic housing and the metal USB-A adapter. The panels have poor tolerance in manufacturing, and it seems the USB-A plug can have a tendency to jostle loose, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Tightening the fit seems to have fixed this issue. I also carry electric tape with me in my kit, typically to tape blisters. Other Power Optimizations I think there is significantly more optimization that can and should occur with phone setups. My current Samsung Galaxy S20 FE is an abysmal piece of shit. I got it because it supposedly had "legendary" battery life, but it seems to burn through battery much more quickly than any of the Motorola Phones I've had (a lot). With that said, it seems to have similar battery drain compared to many others' phones (25%-35% a day with reasonable usage in Airplane mode with extended power saving enabled, I need to charge it every night in default life, typically it's at 15% by midnight). With that said, I brought only the NL2150RX on a recent 3 day backpacking trip. My phone was at 25% when I started (car charging cable disconnected) and I ended up getting back to the car with only 15% battery life remaining and a drained 5000 mAh cell (didn't take the solar panel). This is absolutely abysmal, and I will be looking at better phones for backpacking purposes this fall. (Edit for June 2024: I've since moved to the Galaxy S23 and love it compared to the S20 FE. The battery life is significantly better. Also much better than The Pixel 8 I tried before buying this. I'm pretty happy with the S23). Concluding Thoughts A Lixada solar panel along with the NL2150RX or NL1835RX offers significant improvement over an NB10000 power bank + Anker Nano 511 charger for approximately the same or better weight. Improvements from using this solar setup include: significantly more power capacity when hiking in the American West, and less time spent needing to wait for things to charge in town (e.g. 4 hours for the NB10000 to recharge). I have made some optimizations and refinements to this solar setup to substantially improve the durability to a point where I think it can be reliably trusted for long-distance backpacking and multi-month thru-hikes. With that said, I do not yet have enough miles with this new setup to personally feel confident that I should forego throwing an Anker Nano 511 into my backpacking kit. While I believe I have significantly improved the durability to a point where I do not anticipate components being damaged over thousands of miles, I also don't mind the 1.4 oz hit an Anker Nano 511 costs me for buying a lot of peace-of-mind. After I accrue another 1000+ miles of use with this setup, I will probably abandon the Anker Nano. Quick aside on Anker Nanos: There are several different Anker Nano models: Anker Nano 711 (1.15 oz) Anker Nano 511 (1.4 oz, also cool colors) The Anker Nano 511 features folding plug connectors. The Anker 711 has fixed plug connectors. I have now damaged some of my gear with the 711 because the plug connectors do not fold. I have decided that the 0.25 oz hit for using the 511 is worth it for the reduced risk of damaging gear that I pack alongside it. Edit Updated Information as of February 2025 I've moved over to a panel like this for my default panel. When ordering from AliExpress, results are variable, but the main thing for this one is the light indicator on the solar panel (better for troubleshooting), and that the plug-in is further away from the outside edge (better for durability). It measures at 290x144 mm. I used a mitersaw to cutoff extra plastic, and drilled a couple 1/8" holes for shock cord to drop the weight down. Current Setup VapCell 5000 mAh USB-C Protected Battery "10 Watt" panel with light indicator (actually 4-5 W). Also add a bead of adhesive around charging port to increase durability. PVC Heat Shrink (protect the cell) Terminal Insulators USB-A to USB-C Plugs (2x) USB-C 12" cords, durable (3x) 90-degree adaptor for VapCell 2.5mm Shock Cord and Dual-hole Toggle Cord Locks for holding the battery to the diagonal shockcord. (I've removed the blue foam, but mainly due to how my backpack now works with the panel + shock cord, where the roll-top creates a decent insulation buffer. (~7.3 to 8.1 oz with cord redundancy) After another couple hundred miles of using the panel setup, I'm reconsidering the use of the 21700 cells, mainly because the single port appears to sometimes back-flow, shorting out or destroying electronic components in the chain (e.g. charging cords). I've purchased a 5000 mAh powerbank from Amazon that's a little over 3.5 oz, which I plan to use for longer-trips where durability is a higher priority. This has a dedicated port for charging and a dedicated port for discharging, and there is no back-flow from the USB-C port to the solar panel (like I've had with other small powerbanks from amazon/ali) submitted by /u/Peaches_offtrail to r/Ultralight [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/mailodude27 to r/SteamDeck [link] [comments]

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submitted by /u/xxbiohazrdxx to r/DIY [link] [comments]