Washing Detergent Sheets

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... 99-Oz Gain Plus Liquid Laundry Detergent w/ Odor Defense + OXI (.... Product Details: Gain Plus liquid detergent offers an enhanced laundry solution...to Gain Classic Gain liquid detergent is a fragrance of rich... Softener, Gain Rinse, & Gain Sheets - Mix, Match, More Happy... break throughout your day, Gain washing soap delivers up to all...Oxi, Gain Plus liquid laundry detergent tackles tough and musty odors...

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... item Make washing easy with ultra-lightweight and eco-friendly laundry detergent sheets that fully... with radiant freshness even when washing at low temperatures (20°C... laundry. No mess or overdosing. Washing has never been easier!

Have you used laundry detergent sheets or bars for handwashing in sinks? What brands do you like? Any that you would avoid? Other suggestions for washing along the way?

... determined it was my new washing machine causing the problem. SO... ACTIVE PSORIASIS PLEASE CHECK YOUR WASHING MACHINES FOR THIS!! If you... a tablespoon,,,, YES TABLESPOON of detergent in your clothes. Then when... a "totally free scent" detergent and dryer sheets. You say your washer is... clothes. Also, I highly recommend washing your clothes totally separate from ...

... your wife was using for washing clothes - looked like it... Prime shipping ...   Pack some laundry sheets, we had paracords & magnetic ... dry ... ran low on detergent/out of laundry sheets)  Edited 16 hours ago by...

... guest laundromat ?  Some of the washing machines we had were pretty ... per week.  I bought some detergent sheets and brought dryer sheets from home, so not...

... husband will help with cleanup (washing dishes, loading and unloading DW... (for cutting boards and cookie sheets); a 12” 3 drawer base..., a dishpan, and the DW detergent. This would leave space for...

... I purchased online, Clean People sheets, for home use. Wow, I... loads and I believe the sheets are meant for regular size... washer, they will provide the detergent. If I'm "sink washing", I either use some... little packets of detergent I was gifted or...

... MADE EASIER - Our laundry detergent sheets deliver a powerful clean in...cold washes. This ultra-concentrated laundry detergent dissolves fully with zero residue...- Lightweight, pre-measured laundry sheets make washing effortless with no spills or... overdosing. This space saving laundry detergent...A more eco friendly laundry detergent with plastic-free packaging. A ...

... cocktail. Borax + washing soda + Tide powder detergent in a 1:1...cup Borax, 1/4 cup washing soda, 1/2 cup ...the tap, then dump your sheets (or towels or other ...as normal. The Borax and washing soda are detergent boosters: they make hard... and increase the effectiveness of detergent. It's very, very strong. ...it once per set of sheets I own, and I'm not ... I had a set of sheets that had yellow blobs in ...

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... your Medallion. They also sell detergent etc but I bring my... out of those traveling laundry sheets for the wash basin to... laundry ... will probably do minimal washing of underwears & socks only...

... goes in warm. I have sheets and towels which go in... uses. I switched to liquid detergent years ago after thinking whatever... used any softeners or scent sheets etc, the only additive I’ve... is insistent on using “enough” detergent but I usually skimp. Indeed... a white vinegar solution before washing them. That seemed to knock...

... filters (round kind) and dish washing liquid. Many units have storage... of liquid detergent is provided as well as dryer sheets. Having in-unit...

... Stain Remover, 10 x Laundry Detergent Sheets Bio, 12 x Scent Booster..., 12 x Fabric Conditioner Sheets, 6 x Stain Pen Express..., 4 x Service-it Deep Clean Washing Machine Cleaner, Service-it Deep Clean... & Wipe, 4 x Service-it Washing Machine Cleaner – Ocean Fresh, 6...

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I am, and I was just wondering if I am alone or if my fellow EdmontonIan’s are joining me? I don’t buy everything Canadian, but I do boycott the USA. I have switched over to only made in Canada… -razors (hensons safety razors) -face cream (Rocky Mountain soap company, attitude makes some too) -water filter (santevia) -plastic cling wrap (I use abeego now) - facial tissue (Kleenex) ( royale) -deodorant ( jack 59, attitud, Rocky Mountain Soap Company) -chapstick (the real bomb, Rocky Mountain soap compan.) - toilet bowl cleaner ( Nature clean,) -sunscreen (attitude, Rocky mountsin soap company, Matter company) -soap ( nature bee, caprina, etc) -toothbrush (nada) - canned air (enzone) -shampoo/conditioner (jack 59, attitude) -body wash ( nature clean, attitude) - dish soap (nature’s, nature clean) -laundry detergent (Nellie’s) - stain remover (buncha farmers) - all purpose cleaner (Myni, nature clean) - phone case (pela) -chocolate (Purdys) -dishwasher detergent (Nellie’s, nature clean) -waffle cones ( I just buy them at the local ice cream shop where they make them homemad.) -granola bars (made good) - leafy greens (I have switched to micro greens.) - menstrual products (diva cup) I want to switch to Canadian made toothpaste, and dental floss. * talking to some lovely Americans on here who said they don’t appreciate my business anyways made me bite the bullett and order Canadian toothpaste. You don’t want my business? That’s fine. I’ll give it to someone who does. Win win. *edit people keep asking me for brands. These are the ones I use, but there are so many more.) i stopped buying Oreos, popsicles, orange juice, pringles, hersheys chocolate bars/chocolate chips, any pillsbury, breakfast cereals, campbells soups, (only Canadian chips), freezer bags or glad bags (I reuse the ones I have, or I reuse the resealable unavoidable bags i get at the grocery store, disposable toothbrushes, anything from Gillette, shower curtain liners (I use 2 heavy duty cloth ones online) fake syrup, a lot of pop, canned Parmesan, American chain restaurants, lot of American candy, processed foods, and I don’t buy from Amazon. i don’t buy much American produce anymore, I get it from Mexico (and honestly it’s better.) I have alway bought Canadian meat, oats, sugar, flour, hemp hearts, maple syrup, bread, eggs, dairy products, honey, alcohol pet treats, winter boots, toilet paper, paper towels, quilts , pillows, sheets, and my winter coat. i would get pet food made here but I don’t have pets. If I had kids I would get cloth diapers made here and use those. If I did need disposables some of the time, I would buy royale. i buy most of my clothes used, but on the rare occasion I buy new, I want to shop Canadian. I have used dishes, kitchen knives, pots and pans, utensils, towels, most of my furniture, all of my smaller kitchen appliances, some electronics, most of my clothes. Honestly I probably save money because I buy less, and I’m healthier too. stuff I can’t seem to not stop buying from there lemon juice, canned pumpkin, lemons, limes, lime juice, onions, soup stalk, shoes, bell peppers, leeks, appliances, streaming services (I should cancel my Netflix. Yikes.) submitted by /u/Crispycrackwhore to r/Edmonton [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/BlondeBrillo to r/laundry [link] [comments]

I wash these sheets weekly but the stains just would not budge. So I figured I'd give them a soak in the tub with dishwasher detergent and YUCK!!!! Now, I think my weekend will consist of soaking everything I own. submitted by /u/MadamStrawberry14 to r/CleaningTips [link] [comments]

Last night I was reading comments on Kismai’s citric acid post and he mentioned washing towels in hot water with just 1/2 cup of citric acid (no detergent). I had some time this morning so I thought I’d give it a try, as my towels haven’t been feeling as soft as I’d like. I’ve been using tide and citric acid, hot wash, extra rinse for several months. My washer is 6 weeks old, Speed Queen top loader. Previous to finding this sub I was using Arm and Hammer liquid and maybe v1negar in the rinse. No softener or dryer sheets. We have hard well water, but we have a whole house softener. I checked on the towels during the wash and holy suds!! Even after the 2nd rinse they felt sudsy, so I started another wash without anything added to the wash cycle, just hot water and a citric acid rinse. These pics are from the wash part of the 2nd wash. I had to leave for work before the wash was finished, so I’m not sure how they feel now, but with this much suds, I can’t imagine they’re good to go yet. What should my next step be? Another citric acid wash? Spa day? submitted by /u/marslp to r/laundry [link] [comments]

[r/laundry](r/laundry) is filled with tales of woe - smelly armpits, mystery stains, socks the color of cream of mushroom soup - complete with mysterious embedded dark chunks. I personally love solving these problems (and the reactions when people post the process and results of disaster recovery are extremely popular there). But what of people who just have normal laundry and want a little tune-up? Or have never done their own laundry before? How about some love and guidance for the non-smelly, non-stained, non-crusty? Here's something for them. How I do normal laundry day-to-day. Getting Personal: What people are often surprised to learn is that I really don’t enjoy doing laundry. I don’t think it’s an act of service - I think it’s survival, and I further think expending the minimal amount of time and effort that respects my textiles (and the human and resource inputs that went in to making them) is the best use of my time. It just needs to be done right the first time, every time, so I can watch cat videos on the Internet. There’s no one right way to do laundry, just like there’s no one right way to make a grilled cheese sandwich. Much like slightly-stale sourdough with a skim of dijon mustard inside and a blend of sharp cheddar and either fontina or Monterey Jack, fried in Whirl is my favorite way to do the latter, this is my laundry default method, developed over the years of contending with my messes. 95%+ of the loads I do fall in this rubric. Also note that I’m in North America with water softer than about 75% of households. There are endless corner cases, including silk, wool, down, GoreTex and other waterproof technical fabrics, semi-synthetics like rayon, viscose, “bamboo”, modal, Lyocell and Tencel, silver-infused, FR and anti-static, pillows and stuffed toys, shoes and rugs. I’ll get to those later. This is for: Towels Sheets / Duvet Covers / Pillowcases Clothing (other than Dry Clean Only pieces) Which are at least 95% the following fibers: Cotton Linen Hemp Ramie Polyester / Dacron Nylon / Polyamide Acrylic Lycra / Spandex / Elastane Laundry Apartheid: Separating The Whites And The Colors Please note: I have a problem. I don’t think you absolutely need to do this much to have very good results. You could easily combine the dark and lights in a color family, for example, especially if you use a detergent with anti-redeposition or use color catchers. It’s also likely you could combine neutrals and embellished whites successfully. I have a lot of laundry categories. I also don’t look good in yellow or orange, so I don’t own it. If you do, good for you, and you could aim at the red loads and move the purples to the dark blues and greens. I wear a lot of plum and purple. I have a bunch of IKEA Frakta/Storstomma 80 liter bags hanging up, and stuff gets sorted into them daily. When they’re mostly full, I run the load. Black, charcoal, navy and dark brown Dark blues and greens Dark reds and purples Light blues and greens Light reds and purples Neutrals like khaki, tan, ecru, light grey and taupe Whites with stripes / embellishment Absolute plain white Socks & Underwear (cotton blends, mostly white) Sheets (by color) People Towels (by color) Kitchen & Pet Towels (all white, presoaked with chlorine bleach for sanitizing in my world) The towels and sheets get isolated in this scheme because for me, I need to dry the sheets on Delicate and the towels on High. Your sheets may be more durable or you may be willing to separate them between the wash and dry. They’re both full loads for me, without the need to combine to make a good load. Sorting like this gives me flexibility in the choice of chemistry, and doesn’t require me to take any special precautions to prevent color transfer in anything but the first wash of an item. I also care a lot less about lint, because the lint is largely invisible when it’s between items of like color and intensity. Pretreat: Don’t Make Your Detergent Do Everything I am a pretreater. One of the first laundry tasks I was ever trusted with by my legendarily persnickety mother was identifying stains for pretreating, and eventually I was trusted with her can of old-skool Spray ’n’ Wash with solvents. Detergents and equipment have improved a lot in the years since mumblemumble, but I still pretreat, in exchange for not having to check every garment for lingering stains between wash and dry. The Usual: Stains from Food, Plants and Animals Including Myself This is the most common cause of stains on my laundry. It’s like I never learned to use cutlery as a toddler. It’s also the most common cause of spots on most textiles for most people. My not-so-secret weapon against these stains? Enzyme pretreater. They’re safe on the listed fabrics regardless of color, they’re not smelly or environmentally sketchy, they work extremely well and there are many to choose from. There’s a list on the spreadsheet linked at The Lipase List on the Pretreater tab. Pick whichever one sounds good - they all work about the same because their formulae are about the same. ​I've got a stockpile of old-formula Tide Rescue that I'm emotionally attached to in a less-than-healthy way, but I've also been happy with Whole Foods and Open Nature. I'll pick up a bottle of the President's Choice next time I'm in Canada. Spritz or squirt the stains at least a half-hour before laundering, up to about a week. These removers are working so long as they’re damp, and once they’ve worked, the stain washes out with detergent - so don’t be discouraged if the stain still appears to be there before washing. The Not Uncommon: Mineral Oils I work on cars and do motorsports. I get automotive grease on me. Enzyme pretreaters are nothing special on this kind of oily soil. What works is nonionic surfactant, the active ingredient in many heavy-duty liquid detergents. Anything can work here. I usually have some Tide or Persil around for this purpose. If you get these spots, hit them with some liquid detergent at least fifteen minutes before washing. Penetration is improved if you dilute 1:1 with tap water. Tamping the mixture in with a brush or spoon can help improve first-wash removal. This is also a solid pretreater for waterproof/water resistant makeup stains. The Woes Of Living With Someone Who Takes Notes In Ink Ink merits special consideration. While many inks and markers and crayons will come out with standard wash, many will not. If I see an ink mark on something, I pretreat it with a specialist product, either Amodex or Carbona Stain Devil 3, Ink, Marker & Crayon, following the label directions carefully. These three categories cover 99% of my laundry woes. Ask [r/laundry](r/laundry) or DM me for advice if you have something else on your textiles. Don’t dump v1negar on it as a default. Check. Your. Pockets. I argue that it’s the responsibility of whoever wore the garment to check the pockets before things go in the hamper, barring some debility or being too young to understand the risks of not doing so (which in my case could rise to capital punishment). But it behooves the launderer to give a final check. The launderer is entitled to keep anything they find that they want, including cash, jewelry, electronics and snacks. Consider it a tip. Load The Machine: I have a 4.5 ft^3 LG front loader. Truly middle of the pack. If I’m using powders in the wash cycle, they go in the back of the drum now. We’ll come back to that topic. I add enough textiles to reach at least 75% of the way up the opening but not so many there isn’t a fist worth of space open at the top of the drum. Loading this full optimizes the mechanical action of the wash. I check the door seal drains for lint or hair or debris before shutting the door. If something has straps narrower than about 2” or is of delicate construction that could be prone to stretching (a sweater like a knit cotton cardigan, not a sweatshirt), it goes in a mesh delicates bag, alone. If it has screen printed graphics or is denim, it gets turned inside out to protect the surface appearance. If you want your jeans to exhibit more character at friction points, wash right side out. Zippers are zipped. Buttons and snaps are unfastened. Velcro is adjusted so no scratchy part is exposed. Hoodie strings are tied. When I still use a conventional top loader, like on vacation,I loosely load it dry to the water fill line that you can usually see on the agitator. I would then adjust the water fill level so, after a couple minutes of agitation, the textiles have between 3/4 and two inches of water above them. 1.5 is perfect. Chemistry: I’m a sweaty greasy mess who drops food. So obviously I use an enzyme detergent. I maintain a list at The Lipase List where you can find something you like that works with your water. I don’t care about the presence or absence of fragrance one way or the other, but if the product is fragranced it has to be unobtrusive. From an olfactory perspective, I really don’t want $5 of my perfume overpowered by $0.02 worth of laundry fragrance. As of this writing, I’m doing 85+% of my loads with 2 oz / 60ml of liquid 365 Sport Detergent from Whole Foods because it has an uncommon enzyme, DNase, that gets my clothes cleaner than my previous regimen. I’ve discussed why DNase matters elsewhere. I add 1-2 fluid oz (2-4T / about 20-40g) or so of an oxygen bleach. If a load is cotton-rich and lighter in color than “light navy”, it’s more likely to get Biz just because I like the effect of optical brightener. If the load is darker, it doesn’t get Biz - it gets an oxi without optical brightener, like Kirkland Signature (which I hate the smell of and am working through to use it up), Target’s Up and Up, OxiClean Free or 365 Oxygen Whitener. When I get to the bottom of this pile of oxi bleaches, I’ll switch to Febu to get all the goodies aside from optical brightener. ​The other 15% of these animal-fiber-free loads get 4.5T / 70ml ofTide with Bleach powder. It’s purely vibes and color that define which gets which when. Only things qualifying as lights or lighter get the TwB. I also use TwB on kitchen towels because they don’t get a lot of benefit from DNase - might as well save a little cash. Automotive loads get 3 oz / 90ml of Tide/Persil liquid and a cup/ 250mL of ammonia. You can’t beat the cleaning of a high-performance conventional-surfactant liquid on petrochemical soils. Ammonia helps the grease removal. I am a massive fan of citric acid rinsing. It leaves my cottons cottonier, my polyesters slicker and my animal fibers softer and smoother. I use a shade over 2 tsp / 10g citric acid crystals right in the softener dispenser. My machine likes the dry just fine and I don’t get residual crunchies after the wash. YMMV. Details of the Why of citric rinsing here ​Wash (Finally): TL;DR - warm water, Normal cycle, extra rinses, adjusting soil level as appropriate with just enough detergent to do the job, citric acid in the rinse. Wash Action: I generally wash on Normal because these items are Normal. I usually set the soil level to the maximum - this extends the agitation to get maximum cleaning with no downside except a time penalty. Temperature: I usually select a warm wash for clothing and a hot wash for socks/underwear, towels and sheets. The exception to this is clothing with automotive soils - it gets much cleaner on hot wash because of the nature of the soils. My warm wash is about 102F/39C. Barely over body temperature, slightly cooler than I like my bathwater or shower, completely appropriate for bathing an infant. Using water of this temperature lets me use half the agitation time as I would at 82F/28C to get the same cleaning results, and one fourth the agitation time as would be required at 62F/17C. Rinses are always cold on my machine. Rinse: Yes, please. All of them. As many as the machine will let me select. Even with perfectly dosed detergent, you’re going to get some carryover from wash to rinse, and at the end of the first rinse, my clothes are still of higher pH than my tap water. That’s a definitive indication that there is still wash chemistry in there. pH is easy to measure on finished fabrics (just touch pH paper to the damp textiles and see for yourself) and it’s therefore the best proxy for rinse thoroughness. Three gallons of extra water for each rinse cycle is pocket lint compared to the other ways we use water in the US, and it’s respectful to your skin and the textiles to get them throughly rinsed. My machine dispenses the softener cup in the last selected rinse, so my final pH is lower than tap water thanks to the citric acid. Spin Speed: Send it. Unless an item is stuffed or of extremely delicate construction (like a $500 bra), spin speed is a synonym for “how much detergent-infused water would you like to get rid of?” I’d like to maximize that. High speed spin it is. I then go off and ignore the machine for 2:07. It’s laboring. I don’t need to. I come here and talk about laundry. How (Not) Dry I Am: For as much time as I want my clothes to spend in the washer, and my longstanding enthusiasm for warmer wash temperatures, my feelings about the dryer go the other way. The dryer is where clothes (especially natural and semisynthetic fibers) go to die. Hot dry air is lethal to clothing. Overdrying is so much worse than any notional “overwashing”. Unless it’s a towel, if it’s going in the dryer, it’s going on Delicate, Sensor Dry, set to “less dry”, and all the “wrinkle guard”/cool down my 1987 Kenmore can muster. This leaves most cotton-rich fabrics barely damp to the touch, slightly damper at the seams. At the end of the cycle, they are room temperature and that trace of dampness ensures they never got too hot during the cycle to come up to “damaged fiber”. As a result, my lint screen has barely the faintest trace of lint from clothing loads (although, admittedly, we don’t wear a ton of fleece). Shirts and pants get hung out of the dryer, other clothing gets piled loosely in an open basket to acclimate / finish drying at ambient. Sheets get dried all the way to dry on delicate (a tiny fraction closer to the “dry” setting than the “less dry” and sometimes they need an hour laid out on the bed before they’re completely dry. Towels get dried sensor dry hot as a final microbial kill step and come out hot to the touch. If the item is more than about 75% synthetic content, it’s getting hung to dry right out of the washer. My laundry room is warm and dry and these fibers dry so quickly. Limiting exposure to heat is especially important for blends with Lycra/spandex/elastane. It’s like the fountain of youth for elastics to avoid dry heat. That’s it. That’s how I do laundry. Products mentioned here are mentioned because I like them; I haven’t been paid to mention any of them. Trademarks are those of the trademark holders. The work is my original work and I retain copyright. My financial disclosure information and how I get paid for this work can be found at https://www.kismai.com/about-kismai/Money submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

Description from traderjoes.com: No matter how much we may procrastinate, and try as we might to avoid it, there’s simply no getting around it—sooner or later, the laundry must get done. That’s why we’re doing our part to ameliorate this inevitability with a selection of laundry solutions, including our Free & Clear Liquid Laundry Detergent, and now, our totally non-liquid Trader Joe’s Free & Clear Laundry Detergent Sheets. Made with a mix of stain-fighting protease enzymes, these water-soluble Detergent Sheets act just like laundry pods—just place one in your washer before adding a load of laundry—and also happen to be totally free of dyes, fragrances, optical brighteners, phthalates, or phosphates. Suitable for use in both regular and high-efficiency (HE) washing machines, each box of Trader Joe’s Free & Clear Laundry Detergent Sheets contains 32 individual Sheets, making it a convenient and cost-effective way to get your clothes clean—especially considering that smaller and less-soiled loads can be done with half a Sheet. We also like the fact that a box takes up considerably less room than a container of liquid detergent or laundry pods. Because if the laundry indeed must get done, we’re in favor of any thing that might make it a little easier. https://www.traderjoes.com/home/products/pdp/laundry-detergent-sheets-free-clear-078145 submitted by /u/CookieButterLovers to r/traderjoes [link] [comments]

This is a general introduction to Spa Day for people new to the process or who have been introduced to the method from outside r/Laundry . The document was last revised on 12/01/2025. What In The Hell Is Spa Day? Spa Day is an intensive enzymatic reset process for textiles that have developed specific stubborn problems related to oily residues from plants, animals and things animals should eat, that don’t wash out in one or two typical washes with optimal product and program selection. It uses concentrated solutions of specific components to degrade these oily soils, detach them from fibers and rinse them away. Isn’t This Just Laundry Stripping? No. Laundry stripping as popularized during the Lockdowns is using high-pH salt-based chemistry to remove dust, particulate soil and failing dye from textiles. It’s often done in a bathtub and there are as many ways to do it as TikTokers who crave views more than they crave oxygen. Why Is It Called Spa Day? Because it’s giving your clothes (and you) some time off for pampering. They sit in a nice warm bath of concentrated healing elixir, and you fuck off and watch cat videos on the internet while the chemistry does the hard work. Take A LOAD Off, Annie Spa Day relies on four carefully-chosen components to remove unwanted oily gunk from textiles: Lipase - an enzyme that biologically cuts oils from animal or vegetable sources into four smaller pieces that detergent can more easily remove Oxygen - color-safe oxygen bleach lightens stains and rips up odor molecules Ammonia - a gas-in-water booster to improve oily soil removal and help surfactants remove oils from fibers Detergency - surfactants to attach degraded oil to water and rinse it away from the fibers LOAD components get applied in different combinations and concentrations in two phases: the Spa Day soak that loosens the contaminants from the fiber overnight, and the subsequent Rehab Wash that removes these loosened soils and washes them down the drain. How Do I Do Spa Day? Everything you want to know about How is at r/laundry/s/uCiv9rbmO8 Not Everything Needs Spa Day This is for problem textiles - where you would consider throwing them out or otherwise replacing them due to severe obvious defects. Most textiles don’t need Spa Day - when I developed the process, I had to go out to thrift stores to buy items dirty enough to test on. Things that have been getting optimal care (86-107F / 30-40C washes, an enzyme detergent (preferably with lipase or DNase), regular cycles (as opposed to improper use of Delicates or Speed Wash cycles)? They’re probably clean enough. A couple normal washes with optimal chemistry will get them right. Spa Day is a speedrun to replace 6-8 optimal washes in one glorious pass. What Problems Is Spa Day Intended To Solve? Odor Problems Odors That Persist Through The Wash - often of a biological origin, but can be from other sources such as applied perfumes and product fragrances, which are being retained by oily residue on textiles. “Thrift Store” smell would be a common issue Odor Rebloom - textiles that smell good out of the wash but develop an unpleasant odor after tumble drying or wear. Storage Odors - crayon/waxy, rancid or “musty” odors on textiles stored in dry conditions. “Grandma’s House” - odors held by older textiles stored with exposure to aerosolized fats from cooking and infrequent laundering Restaurant / Foodservice Textiles - napery, linen and clothing exposed to kitchen environments Visible Problems: Underarm Stains - especially those with a stiff or waxy texture or yellow, brown or grey color. Removing white antiperspirant deposits can require a follow-on treatment to address mineral salts from sweat and antiperspirant. Spa Day removes oily or waxy deodorant and body oil components. Yellow/Orange/Brown Greasy Human Soils - often found on pillowcases, sheets, collars, cuffs and waistbands - this is an accumulation of sebum / skin oil not removed well in previous laundry processes Oily Stains - from animal or plant sources including cooking oils, and fats and pet contact. Automotive and petroleum-based oily stains need different treatment. Texture Problems: Slick- or Waxy-Feeling Textiles - often found on linens and throw blankets as well as clothing in direct skin contact Fabric Softener Buildup - caused by use of liquid softener or dryer sheets Poor Absorbency / Moisture Wicking - cottons that won’t soak up water, synthetic performance fibers that seem to retain moisture or hold sweat on skin Matting Of Synthetic Fleece / Fur - fine fibers that won’t separate and stay fluffy What Spa Day Isn’t Intended To Solve: Mold / Mildew stains and odors Rust / Metal Oxide stains Urine Stains / Odors - although the soaking in a concentrated detergent solution works quite well because almost all lipase-containing detergents also contain proteases that target urine odor and the method includes oxygen bleach to target odor directly - you don’t need to add the ammonia in the subsequent wash for urine removal. Mystery Stains from petroleum-oil or other sources How Did My Textiles Get To This State? Oils build up on or stain laundry for a variety of reasons and most of them aren’t your fault: Underdosed Detergent - which is usually the result of hard water eating your detergent. Ineffective Laundry Product Ingredients Such As Hard Soaps and Saponified Oils - these ingredients don’t effectively remove oil from fibers to be rinsed away, and can themselves build up in some water situations Low wash temperature - without a corresponding increase in wash cycle time. North American machines set to Cold can need four times longer agitation than the same machine running at Warm for equal cleaning performance. Synthetic fibers - that preferentially attract and hold oil because they’re designed to repel / wick water, as in athletic / performance fibers. In general, that which repels water attracts oil. Overuse of Express Wash Cycles - insufficient time and mechanical action to completely dislodge soils. And the single most common reason in North America: Detergents without lipase or DNase/nuclease/phosphodiesterase - top tier detergents have removed lipase to cut costs and make formulation easier, and it's at the expense of your textiles. Shame on Big Laundry! While it’s absolutely possible to get textiles clean without lipase, it requires better control of the rest of the wash process and chemistry. Lipase is a cheat code that helps ensure first-wash removal even when the rest of the wash isn’t perfect. On What Kind Of Textiles Can I Use Spa Day? The process is generally suitable for colorfast cotton, polyester, spandex/Lycra/elastane, nylon, acrylic, polypropylene, aramid, UHMWPE, linen, ramie and hemp and blended fabrics of these fibers. It does not generally disrupt commercially printed or sublimated graphics or most printed patterns except those where white or light colored background vinyl or DTF resin is overprinted with sublimation or DTG inks. This is common on black graphic tees with multi-color continuous tone graphics. It’s typically safe for embroidered embellishments. If you aren't sure if a garment of these materials is colorfast, mix a teaspoon of the powdered ingredient you choose in cup of hot tap water. Apply a few drops of this solution to a hidden area of the garment, wait an hour, rinse and hang to dry. If the color doesn't change, you're good to go. FR/AR clothing that is rated for home laundering under ASTM standard F2757 is fine with this process so long as the Detergent component of the soak or wash does not contain soapy ingredients. If you’re unsure, check The Lipase List for confirmation. On What Textiles Should I Be Cautious About Using Spa Day? Spa Day is somewhat poorly suited to rayon, acetate/triacetate, viscose, Tencel/Lyocell, “bamboo”, modal and similar semi-synthetic cellulosic fabrics because of the substantial variations in manufacturing chemistry and process in these particular fibers. Extended soaking time and relatively high wash pH leaves them potentially vulnerable to mechanical damage in the wash process. If you want to try this on these fabrics, I highly suggest using a delicates mesh bag for both steps, so that the fabrics aren't being stretched or jostled as much in their vulnerable wet and weak state. Launderer beware. You have been warned. On What Textiles Shouldn’t I Ever Perform Spa Day? It’s not suitable at all for silk, wool, cashmere, Angora, alpaca, vicuña, leather, suede or fur or blends thereof - anything of animal origin - because of the protein-destroying enzymes, high temperatures, long wash motion and high pH. Items with ferrous metal buttons, buckles, fasteners or decoration may discolor in the soak cycle. This discoloration may affect adjacent fabric and can be removed with a rust remover product if necessary. Sequins, beading and spangles as well as metallic threads such as Lurex or lamé should not be exposed to this process. Leather or suede trim is notorious for running in long soaks. Fabrics with metallic silver odor prevention or pathogen control treatments such as X-Static, Silvadur, Ionic+, SilverWorks, Silver+ or SIlverescent should never be treated with oxygen bleaches. These are often found on athletic and athleisure clothing as well as scrubs for clinical wear. Slip In To Something Dry.... The good news is, conventional solvent dry cleaning with perc, DF-2000, K4, Supercritical CO2 or D5 silicone/ Green Earth processes can very effectively remove the same defects from all of these challenging textiles above. A professional dry cleaner is your best ally here. You need to tell them if odors are a particular problem to flag the garment for special handling. A Note About Authorship: This work, like all other original-content posts on Reddit, is the property of the original poster, and commercial reuse of the work requires permission from the author, not just attribution. If you’d like to request permission, drop me a chat or email me - [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

It’s Time To Talk About An Unpleasant Subject: Scrud Scrud is a colloquial term for the residue that can build up in washing machines. While HE machines are most susceptible to Scrud, any machine is capable of developing it. It’s a combination of mineral, detergent, soap and fabric softener residues, along with fugitive dye, lint and soils. Scrud is not generally harmful to human health, but it’s disgusting AF and it can smell - both due to the contents and because Scrud supports bacterial growth including biofilms. Scrud often has a waxy, flaky texture that “feathers” when compressed. Other forms can include granules or sheets. Warning: Sensitive Readers May Be Terminally Grossed Out: Here are some images of Scrud posted here in r/Laundry by other Redditors. You may first notice Scrud on your textiles: lighter colored scrub on colored knits darker Scrud on white cotton blend Scrud on jersey knit Or in the wash basket: Scrud in rinse water Scrud wiped out of drum Particularly appalling Scrud from abused machine. Or around things like the tumble vanes: Scrud in tub Scrud behind impeller. What Causes Scrud? The biggest contributor to Scrud is naturally-occurring minerals in tap water. The higher the calcium and total alkalinity of wash water, the more Scrud forming potential. When minerals start to build up, it’s usually not in isolation, though, especially in North American machines without boost heaters. There’s usually a soap or detergent component. Soaps (made from alkali-treated fats and oils) are especially notorious for causing Scrud, and soaps are now found in many mainstream washing products such as All Free & Clear as well as “green” products and boutique fragranced products. Fabric softener can also contribute to Scrud formation. As the Scrud forms, it traps dye, soils and lint in the layers, and any oils or fats can turn rancid. Bacteria can feed on these trapped soils and oils. What Can I Do To Prevent Scrud? Wash on hot periodically. Scrud is more soluble in high wash temperatures. Avoid soapy products and ingredients - anything with cocoate/oleate/palmate/sunflowerate ingredients = bad news if you have water prone to Scrud formation. Same with liquid castile soaps. This rule especially pertains to homemade “detergent” hacks that use hard soaps like Fels-Naptha, Zote or Ivory - these are fine as spot treaters, but don’t rinse away in automatic laundry machines. Don’t use liquid fabric softener you can’t see through or scent beads that promise to soften Consider a citric acid rinse product as discussed at r/laundry/comments/1nhdr0r/ - these work to remove the minerals that are required for Scrud formation and help rinse away excess detergent. They also make your laundry feel and smell great. How to get rid of Scrud: Citric acid is the best way to clean Scrud from your machine, and various companies sell it to do just that, at a premium price. One has the audacity to tell you not to use citric acid for machine cleaning and descaling, and then literally has a link on the same page to sell you their $15/dose descaling product. Which is 85% citric acid. The brass ones on some marketing departments. 1/2 cup / 125 mL of cheap citric acid powder right in the drum, and either the machine clean cycle (preferred) or the hottest / longest possible wash cycle (with “Sanitize” enabled, if your machine has it) will get your machine clean and Scrud-free by dissolving mineral and soap/detergent buildup. If you have a top loader without a machine clean cycle, use a high-fill hot wash setting, and once agitation starts, pause the machine for an hour to allow the citrate to do the work, then allow the cycle to finish. Follow your machine’s instructions for filters and strainers that may need cleaning after this treatment. Check the drum for chunks after the clean cycle and wipe them out before repeating if they’re present. No sense trying to dissolve something you can wipe away. Machines that haven’t been cleaned regularly, have been exposed to the bullshit that is “homemade detergent” or have had other soap-containing products used in them may have a severe layer of Scrud buildup. The telltale sign is that they will foam during a cleaning cycle with citric acid. I cannot be emphatic enough - citric acid does not foam. You can shake and shake and shake a citric acid solution, and the bubbles disappear instantly. If there’s foam in the machine at any point in the cleaning cycle, there’s still retained Scrud getting removed. The absolute worst machines can take 8-12 cleaning cycles to get completely clean and suds-free. Be patient. The anti-Scrud chemistry works as inevitably as Jennifer Lopez ruins a feature film. Once your machine has achieved a clean, suds-free state, a final cleaning cycle with just household chlorine bleach, in the dose recommended by your machine’s manual will provide some additional disinfection coverage to those shiny clean parts. It’s a bonus round, but worthwhile. Starting from a new or cleaned machine, you should run a citric acid cleaning cycle somewhere between every 30-75 cycles, depending on your water hardness (harder, towards the more frequent softer to the less-frequent) There's more information about sourcing citric acid and discussion of the various price and purity options at r/laundry/comments/1nhdr0r/ submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

Edit: Here's the Canva template link (https://www.canva.com/design/DAG1Z_u6vJw/hPwkSQa6NpHj7Q-JVTq3dQ/view?utm_content=DAG1Z_u6vJw&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link&utm_source=publishsharelink&mode=preview). The labels are 3 1/3" x 4". They work with the Avery 6464. I recommend getting waterproof labels though. I just had these on hand from another project. Thank you to this group for giving me the tools to do laundry correctly! I created labels & instructions for my husband to follow for our different types of laundry. I wonder if he’s tired of my shenanigans yet… P.S. I don’t claim my instructions to be 100% correct, but they are cycles are mostly preset on the app and easy for my husband to follow. Most of the time he just needs to pick a cycle and the temp, deep rinse, extra rinse, and soaks are already set. We don’t separate laundry by color mostly because we don’t own any white clothing really. Like, I have maybe 2 dresses and my husband has undershirts that he never uses anymore since we’ve been WFH. All our whites are towels and those are washed in hot all together. submitted by /u/AeroNoob333 to r/laundry [link] [comments]

Revised 9/15/2025 Why Add Something To The Rinse? There’s a Goldilocks point of how much detergent a particular load needs. Not enough, the soils in clothing don’t get removed. Too much, and you’re not only wasting detergent, but you can get buildup in the textiles due to modern laundry equipment being really good at washing and sort of crap at rinsing, as well as buildup in the machine because there are nooks and crannies that don’t regularly get exposed to much more than a splash of water. In a perfectly-dosed load of laundry, the detergent all rinses away and the final rinse water is indistinguishable from tap. Nobody’s load of laundry is perfectly dosed. We either tolerate some residual detergent or we don’t have clean clothes. Further, alkali residues in laundry contribute to skin irritation and texture problems in fabrics. You could rinse and rinse and rinse, but that’s a waste of drinking water. There’s a better answer than dilution: neutralization. Souring On pH Imbalances Commercial laundries have known about the importance of wash and rinse pH since the dawn of automatic laundry. They use extremely alkaline processes to get off oily soils and then they use automatically dosed acids called “laundry sours” to neutralize the alkali. That’s why hotel towels get so white and so fluffy - they blast the dirt and oil off at ph 12+, neutralize it to slightly acidic (pH 6 is optimal) and dry. High pH also helps dry cleaners get starched shirts free of things like that floozy from accounting’s lipstick on the collar of a shirt that is very much not her husband’s. The problem with these highly acidic and alkaline commercial chemistries is that they’re incredibly corrosive to skin and machines if splashed or overdosed. Commercial users monitor the pH of the final rinse water and subtly adjust the dose of these acids to get it right, and humans never touch the raw material. Home launderers do not have that luxury. Acid, In MY HOUSE? -It’s Not Just A Problem Faced By Concerned Mothers Of Teenagers In The 1960s! Big Laundry has figured out that they can get in this game for home launderers with acidic products that neutralize overdosed detergent, improve texture, and optionally add a final hit of fragrance. Selling you another thirty to fifty cents of product is good for their bottom lines, and keeps you from trying to dial down the detergent they’re selling you to the bare minimum to avoid residue. Win/Win. There’s a bunch of these products out there. P&G was the innovator with Downy Rinse Out Odor (née Rinse & Refresh) / Tide Clean Boost / Gain Rinse & Renew. They’re all identical save the fragrance package - mixtures of citric acid, sodium citrate, a glycol to give it some thickness / reduce splashing, and some preservatives so it lasts forever on the shelf. The concentration is designed so that a fabric softener dispenser holds the right amount for a given machine’s capacity, and the pH is buffered so that it’s more friendly to skin and eyes if it’s splashed on full-strength and won’t be particularly harmful if swallowed. Downy Rinse Out Odor, née Rinse & Refresh I can’t overstate how much of a laundry advance these products are: they’re probably the biggest thing to hit home laundry since Liquid Tide in 1985. They are remarkably effective at neutralizing detergent and alkaline residues in laundry. They’re safe to handle, they smell nice if you want them to, and they very much improve laundry texture and fragrance. They incidentally keep machines cleaner and reduce the risk of hard water residue on textiles, even with perfectly dosed detergent. If you like the fragrance and don’t mind the money, use them. The store brand and dollar store knockoffs work about as well - you may need to adjust dosing a little. Martha Stewart Meets Mister Wizard If you don’t care about April Fresh fragrance or the 401(k)s of P&G execs, you can just replace the active ingredient in these water-clear rinse products, citric acid. Because it comes in a convenient powdered form, you can make it fresh for every load of laundry and save some money. There’s no worry about spills because it’s a dry powder. Citric acid powders or crystals are available where home food canning or soap making supplies are sold, in Middle Eastern and Eastern European speciality food markets or online. If you’re buying it by the ton, buy technical grade and save 10%, but food grade is fine in this application and is generally cheaper in small quantities - more competition. It has an indefinite shelf life as a dry product, and if it clumps up due to atmospheric moisture, a whack of the bag will separate it again. Literally any brand is fine - $5/pound or so, delivered, is a reasonable price. One pound should do approximately 90 loads of laundry in a front loader or HE top-loader, 40 or so in a conventional top-loader. This happened to be the cheapest 2# bag of citric acid on Amazon with fast delivery the last time I needed a new one. They're all the same. You don’t need much. It’s pretty much a factor of your washer’s water use. Most HE machines need about 6-8 grams - which is about 1.5 -2 measuring teaspoons. I sort of eyeball it with a fat heaped teaspoonful right in the softener drawer of my LG washer, dry. Most top loaders need at least double - somewhere between a level and heaping Tablespoon - 15-20 grams would be a good starting point. If your water is known to be hard, use more. Increase by about 50% of the base dose for every 100ppm of hardness past 150 in your tap water. Your machine adds the water if it’s an HE machine with a drawer or compartment-type dispenser. You add the water to the fill line if it’s a conventional top-loader with an agitator-top dispenser or if you use The Downy Ball because you don’t have a dispenser. Most HE machines tolerate the dry powder in the dispenser just fine. If you find residue in yours, just top off the dispenser with tap water after adding the acid. How To Tell It's Working: You’ll feel the difference in the first wash. Whether homemade or prerolled, this is not a subtle difference. Towels are fluffier, cotton knits are drape-ier, sheets are smoother. It's not the greasy slick feel of liquid softener or dryer sheets - rather, a cottony-soft slightly fluffy feel. Synthetics have a slicker smoother feel without any hint of greasiness. Liquid Assets: If you have a dispensing system that takes an entire jug of softener at a time, or don’t have a water source close by, and want to use a DIY liquid form, you can just dissolve the right amount of citric acid in water in advance. It’s VERY unlikely you’ll get microbial growth in a pH 3.5 solution like this (in fact, citric acid solutions are an EPA-registered limited disinfectant against many microorganisms) , but it still behooves you to not mix up more than you’ll use in a month or two. Use room temperature tap water and dissolve the citric acid in the water (always add acid to water, not water to acid!), and store in a labeled glass or plastic container out of the reach of children. The question becomes “how much”? And that’s left as an exercise to the reader. It’s easier for conventional top-loader / Downy Ball users: measure how much liquid the dispenser holds to the fill line. Put that much water time how many doses you want to make in the glass or plastic container. Now add enough acid for each dose times the number of doses. An example: if your top-loader agitator-top dispenser holds 4 fl oz / 125 mL to the fill line, and you’re making 32 doses, fill up a gallon jug with 120 oz of water, add 512 grams of powder, and top off with water until the jug is full. Use 4 oz in each load and you’ll get 16 grams of acid in each load, no measuring required. Sorry for mixing metric and freedom units. Die mad about it. For drawer type dispensers, measure how much water it takes to the fill line, multiply that by how many doses you want to make, and add six to eight grams of powder to the water. For a fancy tank dispenser, Read The Fine Manual and see how much it expects to dose in each load. Six to eight grams of acid per load times the dispensed volume in water per load, multiplied by the number of doses the tank holds . If you want to add some fragrance to these liquids, you can. Essential oils generally tolerate some acid well, but maybe make a little up and see how it smells after it sits awhile. You’ll also want to shake the jug well before each use as the oils will tend to behave as oils do and float on top of the watery component. Congratulations: you’ve done what took P&G an approximate eternity to figure out, for a fraction of the money. Get yourself a little sweet treat as a reward. V1negar Is For Salads The Salad Dressing Mafia dumps white v1negar into the rinse cycle to neutralize the detergent. And it works for that. But it smells like an Italian sub sandwich while it’s wet and it takes a lot of mass to do a good job because household distilled white v1negar is only 5% acid. Moreover, acetic acid neutralizes one hydroxide ion for every molecule of acid. So one cup of v1inegar can neutralize about a teaspoon of a strong alkali. Readers, know that your laundry is generally much more alkaline than that. One teaspoon of citric acid powder neutralizes more alkali than that same cup of v1negar, without the weight, the smell or the endless plastic jugs. But What About The Seals? There's a persistent belief that citric acid is bad for the seals. I don't know what aquatic mammals have to do with laundry aside from being cute on the bag of Foca detergent. But know that this chemistry doesn't actually leave the machine or the rinse water strongly acidic. It leaves it within the range of normal tap water instead of strongly alkaline like unneutralized detergent residues do. Cautions: Last One In Is A Rotten Egg: If your water has sulfur in it, the lowered pH can cause a faint rotten egg smell. This will usually flash off when the textiles are dried. You may want to use a commercial product with fragrance in it if this is a sustained issue. Bummer about your water. It’s A Laundry Product, Not A Beverage or Eyewash: This is slightly more acidic than lime juice, but if it gets on your skin, or in your eyes, rinse thoroughly with tap water. If swallowed, contact poison control for guidance. Counteroffers: Don’t let the liquid or powder remain on stone or concrete countertops or floors. Citric acid dissolves calcium. Stone and concrete surfaces contain calcium. Rinse promptly. Financial/AI Disclosures: None of the links are affiliate links. Nobody is paying me to write these posts. I don't make a dime from any of this. This is all 100% produced by a semi-sentient actual human. submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

My adult son swears that modern laundry detergents are now formulated to erase the dreaded colour running fiasco. He says you can now mix colours, lights and darks with no fear of anything turning grey. "greige" or pink, and that this has been a thing for over a decade. I think its codswallop, and Ive told him he can mix his own clothes if he likes, but please leave mine alone. If such a detergent exists why are there colour- run absorbing sheets in all the supermarket? Who is right about this? submitted by /u/SunMoonMuse to r/laundry [link] [comments]

You’ve been referred here because you’ve got persistent stains, underarm buildup or a funky smell in your laundry due to oils not being removed thoroughly. This post was last modified 12/11/2025 - it now emphasizes the How of Spa Day instead of including the Why And When. You're Not Alone r/Laundry gets many posts a day about strange odors and persistent greasy stains. Many people recommend this technique or a variation thereof to get textiles suffering from these extremely common problems back to a clean fresh state. What In The Hell Is Spa Day? Spa Day is an intensive enzymatic reset process for textiles that have developed specific stubborn problems related to oily buildup, that won’t wash out in one or two typical washes with optimal product and program selection. It uses concentrated solutions of specific components to degrade oily soils, detach them from fibers and rinse them away. First the items are soaked in the Spa Day soak and then they are washed in the washer in a Rehab Wash to remove the things the Spa Day soak loosened up. There’s an entire post about What, Why & Why Not at What Is Spa Day? How To Spa Day What Do You Need? Container and Chemistry Holding It Together - You need a suitable container. Stainless steel, ceramic, glass or plastic containers large enough to hold the affected textiles but small enough to require a modest quantity of water are best. I am partial to beer coolers, as they hold heat for a long time and often have a drain spigot. If you’re using fragranced products and are concerned about your cooler retaining the perfumes or odor from the textiles, line it with a heavy garbage bag before adding the solution. Front Loading washing machines, even with soak cycles, are not amenable to Spa Day as you can’t keep the items submerged. If your Top Loading washing machine can do high volume soaking (with everything not just damp, but completely submerged) for 8-12 hours, that's a fine option as well, but you're using 20 gallons of water to do it and 5 cups of detergent is expensive. The smallest practical container that will completely submerge the items is the better, more economical answer. Please Don’t Use The Bathtub! - It’s much harder to keep the items submerged in a bathtub and they cool off much faster than in a container with less exposed surface area. The heat helps the chemistry work overnight. You don’t need any room for the items or solution to circulate. You just need the items saturated and submerged. If You Want To Keep The Bath Heated - sous vide circulators or a warming plate or similar gentle heat maintenance can improve Spa Day results if you’re not using a cooler or similar insulated container. Set your bath temperature to maintain 120F/50C - do not exceed 150F/65C as it damages the enzymes before they are exhausted. Chemistry - It’s As Easy As LOAD (formerly A,B,C,L)! Broadly you need four chemistry components; this can take two or three different products, depending on your personal preferences: Lipase - an enzyme that biologically cuts oils from animal or vegetable sources into four smaller pieces that detergent can more easily remove Oxygen - color-safe oxygen bleach lightens stains and rips up odor molecules Ammonia - a gas-in-water booster to improve oily soil removal and help surfactants remove oils from fibers Detergency - surfactants to attach degraded oil to water and rinse it away from the fibers The catch is, no one product can contain all four letters. They’re incompatible for storage, so it takes either two or three products to tick all the boxes. Give Me An A! - Ammonia No matter what other chemistry decisions you make, you will need a source of A - Ammonia, any 2-25% solution of ammonium hydroxide will work. Clear, sudsy or lemon doesn’t matter - it’s the ammonia that counts, not the additives. In the US and Canada it’s typically sold in large plastic jugs in the cleaning products aisle with window and hard surface cleaners, usually on the bottom shelf. It’s also available at home improvement and hardware stores. Outside the US and Canada it may be more easily found in hardware stores than grocers and hypermarkets. The most common brand available in the US is Walmart’s Great Value Clear Ammonia, found on the bottom shelf, under the window and floor cleaners. You will use 2 cups of 2% solution, 1 cup of 5% solution, 1/2 cup of 10% solution or 3T of 25% solution. A Note About Ammonia and Bleach: I’m frequently asked about the hazards of mixing ammonia and bleach. These are real. For chlorine bleach liquids or tablets, the risks of mixing with ammonia are injury and death. That’s what the dire warnings about mixing ammonia and bleach are about - chlorine bleaches, like Clorox or Cloralen. Mixing chlorine bleach and ammonia forms chloramine, a hazardous compound that can injure lung tissue with relatively minor exposure. Don't do that. Ever. You shouldn’t mix full-strength liquid ammonia with dry oxygen booster either, especially in a sealed container, as it will burst as it releases ammonia gas. This is why the instructions for Rehab Wash are very careful to minimize contact between dry powders containing oxygen bleach and the ammonia liquid. The risk from mixing ammonia and oxygen bleaches diluted in water, as used in this method, are limited to getting it on your hair and waiting 45 minutes to an hour, at which point you will be a brassy blonde. Or blond, if you’re a dude. Ammonia + peroxide is the secret of bottle blondes everywhere. It’s perfectly safe. I’m not out here trying to kill people. Follow the method directions below carefully. L, O & D - You Have Choices This has historically been the source of the most questions about the process. Hence why each of the four options has been split out into a separate linked document. Choose an approach before proceeding. Measurements for each component in both stages are in the linked document, along with regional example products. Option 1 - Complete Powder/Tablet in the Spa Day Soak, Complete Powder/Tablet + Liquid Ammonia In Rehab Wash Option 2 - Complete Booster Powders for Spa Day Soak, Complete Booster Powder + Any Detergent + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Option 3 - Lipase Detergent + Added Oxygen Booster in Spa Day Soak, Lipase Detergent + Added Oxygen Booster + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Option 4 - *NEW* Enzyme Booster + Any Detergent In Spa Day Soak, Enzyme Booster + Any Detergent + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Next Stop, Canyon Ranch - It's Time For Your Clothes To Have A Spa Day - The Soak Step S1 - Prepare The Textiles - Sort the affected textiles generally by color - it’s best practice to use separate soaks and washes for at least darks, colors, and whites + neutrals. Red cottons are notorious for bleeding color throughout their lives, so consider soaking them entirely separately. Step S2 - Prepare The Spa Day Solution - dissolve the Spa Day Soak components in hottest possible tap water (up to 140F/60C) and stir until completely dissolved using a wood, plastic or stainless steel implement. You must ensure that all of the granules of the powder are completely dissolved before adding the fabrics. Failure to do so can result in permanent discoloration of items. If you’re unsure if your powder components have fully dissolved, wait five minutes and stir again. The single biggest source of textile damage from Spa Day occurs when product is not completely dissolved and the wet particles settle on clothing causing focal bleaching. This is most common with Vanish/Resolve/Napisan powders in Option 2 chemistry, but all products with TAED are at risk of this side effect. Be especially careful to stir any foam back down into the bath if you're using Vanish/Resolve/Napisan , as fine particles can be suspended in the foam. You will not add any liquid ammonia in this step, regardless of which chemistry option you choose. Step S3 - Add The Textiles - submerge the textiles completely in the Spa Day solution, squeezing and pressing to ensure complete saturation. Textiles need to be completely underwater for the duration of the Spa Day soak. A ceramic plate or mug, or white cotton towels are an excellent way to keep items submerged. Covering the container to keep the heat in longer improves results. Step S4 - Relax And Enjoy Better Things For Better Living Through The Miracle Of Science- Soak 8-12 hours. Just let the process work. No need to stir. Watch cat videos or something. Step S5 - Drain - Drain the textiles. Don’t wring or twist or particularly try to dewater the textiles. Send Those Dirty, Dirty Textiles Straight To Rehab To Clean Up Their Acts! - The Rehab Wash(es) Now it’s time to wash off what the Spa Day soak has loosened up. Enter the Rehab Wash. Step W1 - Load Dry Powders & Liquid Detergent In The Machine - using the dosages and products described in Options 1-4 above, place any liquid detergent components in the dispenser of your machine (if so equipped) and place any powders either in the dispenser configured for powder (if only using powders) or in the bottom of the wash basket. Do not combine liquid and powder ingredients in the dispenser. If you have no detergent dispensers, place the powders and any liquid detergent in different sections of the wash basket so they don’t form clumps. Step W2 - Load Drained Textiles In The Machine - Place a load worth of damp, drained textiles in the machine. For front loaders, this is typically about 75% of the way up the glass when damp. For top-load machines, use as many pieces as you would typically wash, accounting that they will take up less space while sodden. Step W3 - Add The Ammonia - Pour the dose of the A - Ammonia liquid directly on the textiles - the amount ranges from 3T to 2 cups depending on concentration. Most household ammonia in the US and Canada is around 4-5%, so you’ll use 1 cup/250 mL. Do not pour the A - Ammonia in the washer first, nor pour it directly on any powdered products. If you're using a top-load washer, and you're concerned about ammonia odors, allow the washer to fill completely and then pour the ammonia directly into the water. Step W4 - Wash - It's important to start the wash quickly after the textiles are loaded - the powder they're touching is water-activated, and you don't want damp concentrated powder on the items for very long. Wash with a heavy duty cycle, warm or hot water as appropriate for the fabrics, and set the soil level as high as possible to extend the wash process if possible. Choose as many extra rinses as available to reduce any residue left behind. Do not add fabric softener, scent beads, chlorine bleach, borax, washing soda, v1negar, live animals or your hopes and dreams to the wash process. You may add citric acid or v1negar to the softener dispenser to reduce the final pH of the clothing. Please note: Rehab Wash may produce ammonia odors, especially in conventional top-loading machines - in fact, it may smell like the Windex factory exploded. Don’t worry - these fumes will disappear when the fabric is dry. Ammonia is a gas in water; it will evaporate completely leaving nothing behind. You may want to crack a window, turn on a vent fan or avoid the area while washing. People vary substantially in their tolerance of ammonia fumes. Step W5 - Dry - If you’re treating stains or visible underarm buildup, hang to dry when the cycle completes. If you’re treating odors, you may tumble dry on delicate/low heat until mostly dry, but hang to finish, just in case there is a lingering odor. It’s MUCH more effective to rewash when the lingering bits haven’t been baked in with thorough high-temperature drying. Step W6 - Evaluate - If visible stains or perceptible odor remain, you may need to repeat the rehab washes. Start from Step W1 of Rehab Wash If the stains or odors aren’t removed within three rehab washes, they may be permanent and they may not be oil stains at all. Please see Polyquat Spots for details on a common cause of oily-looking stains that can’t be removed by conventional methods. Step W7 - Bask In Your Success - Your textiles should now be clean to touch, feel and smell. Nice work! Keeping It Clean - Maintenance washes: Regular use of any laundry product with lipase (see The Lipase List for a link to a spreadsheet with a maintained list of products) will remove oily stains and prevent buildup and odors. All oily soil removal is improved by using at least a warm / 40C cycle and residue removal is improved by using an acidic rinse product like Downy Rinse Out Odor, Gain Rinse & Renew, Tide Boost, citric acid or v1negar. Citric Rinsing has details on residue-removal rinsing. Pretreating spots and stains with a pretreater or liquid detergent with lipase can virtually guarantee first-wash removal - see the pretreater tab on the sheet linked from The Lipase List ). A Note About Authorship: This work, like all other original-content posts on Reddit, is the property of the original poster, and commercial reuse of the work requires permission from the author, not just attribution. If you’d like to request permission, drop me a chat or email me - [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

Our bed sheets have this slightly musty smell to them that I can’t get out. They’ve been washed a ton of times and it’s just like permanent. It will smell ok right out of the dryer but I’ll put them away and then take them out a few weeks later to put them on the bed and the smell is back. I use liquid Tide Hygenic Clean (unscented version) and I only ever fill it up to the 1 line because I’m afraid of too much detergent in our HE front loader machine. I add Borax powder to the laundry drum and vinegar to the softening dish (I don’t use fabric softener). Any advice? I’m at the point of wondering if I should just throw them out, but it’s happened to two sets so I think I need to solve this (admittedly the sets are duplicates so it could be something with the fabric but either way they were expensive and soooo comfortable so I’m hoping to resolve it). Thanks! ETA: It doesn’t seem to be coming from where it’s stored. I started noticing this about a year ago and since then I changed where I stored them twice, eventually into an open-air basket (plus nothing else stored in those drawers smelled). I always run them through the dryer twice so there’s lingering no moisture. I just added this note because I see a lot of folks suggesting this, and that’s what I thought initially too but seem to have eliminated this possibility submitted by /u/tallulahQ to r/laundry [link] [comments]

I’ve been seeing these little holes come up in multiple shirts, anyone know what could be causing this? I hardly ever wear a belt and we don’t see any signs of moths. We use detergent sheets, always wash on delicate and tumble dry low. submitted by /u/MrBubbles7 to r/laundry [link] [comments]

I am NOT the Original Poster. That is mioraa. She posted in r/CleaningTips Thanks to u/wickedcherub, u/WeWereAngels and the anonymous person who recommended this to me! Do NOT comment on Original Posts. Latest update is 7 days old. Trigger Warning: infidelity Mood Spoiler: things take a turn but OOP is ok Original Post: December 29, 2024 everything in my house is turning green… at first it was just my cat, and then it became my bedsheets, my feet (which then stained my shoes and socks), my couch, my phone charger, and now my wall. idk what it is. i have no idea where to post this but im wondering if anyone knows how to get rid of it or what it is?? at first i thought mold but now im thinking maybe my laundry detergent pods which are green. but i did a test wash and dry and it didn’t stain my clothes until i wore them for a few hours around the house before it turned green Image 1: OOP's cats- the one with the most white fur is tinged a greenish-blue color Image 2: White pillow, also tinged Image 3: White blanket, tinged with (you guessed it) that greenish-blue Image 4: OOP's wall with that same color streak Some of OOP's Comments: Commenter: Or possibly just buy some new jeans from Old Navy?? lol they stain everything OOP: hahah me and my husband are not jean-wearers! Commenter: Imagine this is how you discover he’s having an affair with some Old Navy wearing woman, from the cat turning green! OOP: me seeing if old navy shows up on his bank statements 👀 Commenter: Why just one cat vs. Both? I feel like that has to be some kind of clue… does one have something/go somewhere the other doesn’t, that would differentiate what the source might be? OOP: they all have access to the same things! both indoor as well Commenter: Maybe only one of them rubs up against the source of the green? OOP: i gotta find out what it is 😭 Later to a different commenter: no windows are open bc it’s way too cold and i wonder if this one cat is green and not the others because her fur is “oily” due to her breed so it clings on more? my other cat recently started getting a little green on his legs just within the last two days Commenter: Not sure about the cats, but pics 2-4 look like dye stains/leakage from jeans or another dark fabric. OOP: the wall pictured is where my bed leans against in which my pillows began staining the same color. the other pic is my blanket. i’m so confused what is staining it since i live in a very boring beige house Commenter: Are your cats rolling about on freshly mown grass by any chance? Just a thought? OOP: sadly in the desert i live in, we have no grass 😂 but they’re also indoor only! thanks for the suggestion tho ! Commenter: Ahh ok!! Amazing. Could your water have a high copper content? OOP: i’m wondering this too after someone commented that! i’m going to check Commenter: Long shot but maybe check under your bed (if you have box springs) or under any furniture, sometimes the material used under furniture will degrade and break up over time and dye things, I had it happen with a chair once and it took me a while to figure out that’s where the color was coming from OOP: thanks !! flipping my bed now because i noticed most of the green things are in my bedroom and not at all in my spare bedroom Commenter: It wasn’t on the floor right? I am assuming this is dye of some sort from its shade, but mattresses on the floor can have mold issues OOP: not on the floor! it’s on a bed frame that kind of looks like a box frame but it has velvet Commenter: How long have you lived there, what kind of floors do you have, and what brushes against that wall? OOP: we’ve lived here since may of this year and it’s a new build. the issue started happening about a month ago. we have carpet in the bedrooms and i think it’s limestone tile in the kitchen/living/hallway. the wall that’s green is where my bed was against, which is also turning green. the blanket was turning green as well. it wasn’t green when we put it on the bed and started using it but over the last two weeks, it’s turned green on the edges, as shown in one of the pictures. so it wasn’t the washer or dryer that made it green (i think). Commenter: Weird but any chance you or anyone in the house is pregnant? I turned things a shade of blue/green when pregnant with my first (toilet seat, office chair, counter by barstool). OOP: oh my gosh! is that a real thing?? i don’t think i was pregnant or am pregnant now, but i took out my IUD two months ago and should be expecting my period in the next week. i did have my period last month so unless i am very very early pregnant now, no pregnancies in this house so far! Commenter: It’s not pregnancy-specific necessarily. It can be caused by hormonal imbalances. I have PCOS and dye things blue if my hormones are super out of whack. OOP: oh i see! pcos was one of the things my pcp was suspecting of earlier this year but my images came out normal despite some other symptoms i had (irregular periods, facial hair, acne, issues with weight) Commenter: This happened in my aunt's apartment from a lack of ductwork cleaning/air filters being neglected. It was so annoying and ruined her white carpet. OOP: i just checked the filters of my air purifiers and they were green! More cat tax: Cat bath Later that night: haha so far i’ve mopped my entire floor, gave my kitty a bath (which took out most of the green) and changed my bedsheet back to my old beige ones. i got someone coming in to check the water and AC on tuesday but im at least eliminating the factor that something may have been tracked onto the floor or that my bedsheets may have caused some bleeding. i will continue to monitor my cats greenness 😂 Another comment later: i did an extreme deep clean but i couldn’t find anything. i did notice that my guest bedroom doesn’t have any staining, but most of the staining is in this bedroom which includes my charger. but the edge of my couch cushions turned green, but i’m assuming it’s because our skin turned green and we sat on the couch. so i do suspect the source is from my room. nevertheless i cleaned my floors and counters and washed my couch covers and bedsheets and replaced them all with my old ones before everything turned green to see if maybe it was my new bedsheets! Intermission Post: December 31, 2024 (2 days later) Title: remove greenish transfer dye from couch? my couch got some transfer dye onto three of the cushions and i stupidly threw them in the washer dryer only to make it spread more. luckily the covers are removable for cleaning but how do i get this greenish tint out? image 1: Comparison of the non-green cushion to the green one Image 2: an up close look Update Post: January 15, 2025 (17 days from OG post) hi! so i don’t know if this is allowed but i wanted to post an update to my original post because many many people asked for one! i honestly don’t know how to work reddit all that well on mobile and couldn’t figure out how to edit my original post. heck i don’t even know how to link my original post properly. but here’s the update: i had my water and AC checked and both were fine. the technician said my water hardness was a bit hard but he didn’t think that would affect the green stains i’ve been seeing. i also got rid of the red bed sheets i had in the pic and put back on my boring corporate beige ones the day i posted the original post. then i waited. it’s funny because i was trying to determine if the green stains were going away based on if my cat was turning green. any time i saw she was becoming greener, i determined that whatever i changed wasn’t the cause. well, i got my water softened and with my new bedsheets, my cat was still turning green but a lot slower, so maybe it was just from the residual green that was now stained on my couch and velvet bed frame. then we had another person inspect for mold which was also a negative. some other commenters had mentioned they had bought the same bedsheets on amazon and had a similar problem so i think it is that. on another note, someone also commented asking if my husband was cheating on me with someone who wears old navy jeans. i won’t lie, when that comment came up, i nervously laughed. i quickly checked our joint bank account for any old navy purchases. while there weren’t any, i couldn’t shake this strange feelings. although the commenter did not know me or my husband, coincidentally, i’ve already had suspicions on a possible affair from the multiple last minute overtime shifts and just overall changes in behavior. also, my husband has cheated before so i’ve always been a bit anxious.. so when i saw the comment joking abt if my husbands affair partner wears old navy jeans, i spiraled. and then i admit i did the bad thing and looked thru my husbands phone and there it was. some sexy instagram DMs from a woman who wears jeans (cannot confirm if they’re old navy). so anyway i’ve spent the last week at my parents with my cat. tdlr - i can’t confirm that the cause of the staining was because of the bedsheets although my cat did turn green much more slowly when i changed them out + other people complained of the same staining issue that purchased the same sheets as me. found out my husband was cheating on me with a woman in jeans Some of OOP's Comments: Commenter: Oh no!! I did not expect this to be the answer!! OP, far out!! Are you okay? That's nuts. Xoxoxo OOP: weirdly enough i think i’m okay. i don’t think i was ever really fully emotionally checked back in since the last time so i think this time hurt a bit less. sorry i couldn’t figure out the source of the green! but my cat is definitely a lot whiter now that we’ve spent time at my parents haha Commenter: Wow, the twist I did not expect! On the cleaning sub no less! I am so sorry for your situation OP, but also, this is an insane update. The drama of it all! OOP: i know 😭 i honestly feel bad for bringing the drama on the cleaning sub Commenter: No, don't feel bad! You didn't owe us this update at all but you posted it and I hope writing it out is a step towards healing for you, truly! It also provided entertainment to us, so there's value there too. I hope you and your kitty are never greened again! OOP: i’m in the process of moving back into the home but i haven’t slept there yet or brought my kitty with me. i hope that when we do move back, we can determine its the bedsheets that did it! or maybe even the jeans that hopefully won’t ever be in contact in my home again. i can’t believe my cat turning green turned out to be this crazy story Commenter: I do not like green eggs and ham, or your husband. I hope you and your possibly radioactive cat are doing okay! OOP: we’re doing just fine! (my radioactive cat and me - not my husband. he’s doing horribly 🤭) Commenter: Aww, I’m so sorry, friend. At least now you know and you can stop wasting your life with this clown. OOP: thank you!! the worst part is honestly the legal battle now 😅 i think i’ve driven myself so insane over the suspicions that this whole thing has been more of a relief, but who knows, maybe once i get back to my home that’ll be half empty, ill have the moment to let it all crash on me and that’s okay too OOP responds back to the OG commenter that said: "Imagine this is how you discover he’s having an affair with some Old Navy wearing woman, from the cat turning green!" OOP: haha i hate to break it to you but… you were a lil right on the nose w this comment 😅 Commenter: hang in there, OP. sorry you’re goin through all of this. hugs. 🥺🩷 return those sheets if you can. if not, trash them or maybe donate them somewhere but with a note saying you’re not sure if they were turning stuff in your house green via dye transfer so someone else doesn’t go crazy if the sheets were the culprit. with jeans… the darker the wash, the more likely this can be to happen. it’s not limited just to old navy jeans (although they might be particularly known for doing this). imagine cheating with someone who wears jeans. shudder what kind of monster even wears real pants these days? (clearly I’m not actually insulting people who wear pants, just trying to crack a joke to make OP laugh.) OP, my brain works in weird ways at times. I apologize if my joke comes across insensitive. simply wanted to take the opportunity to make you laugh for a second if possible. 🥺🩷 OOP: oh! i’m going to return them to amazon (thank goodness for the extended holiday return dates) and i mentioned it possibly turned my house green - though i can’t confirm fully that it was the cause. i didn’t really like those bed sheets anyway! they were much too bold for me and my beige house 😂 it was actually quite impressive how many photos she had of herself in jeans. dark denim, light denim, ripped, skinny, flared, mom jeans! you name it. i don’t think i’ve worn jeans since i was 12 and that was because it was a christmas present from an aunt i see once a year lol. no matter how cold it is, i couldn’t ever think about trapping my legs in jeans lol i don’t mind the jokes! i’m having a grand time. in fact, i apologize for seeming totally okay after all this. i’ll admit that i was a mess the first time around so i guess this time, i was more just disappointed but i think i wasn’t ever the same after the first time. maybe less in love so there wasn’t much to lose this time. i do expect there will be a day where i might fall apart and maybe that’s when ill sleep in my house again but maybe it’ll also feel great because now ill actually have room to spread my legs since i used to share the bed with my husband and my many cats. anyway thanks for reading all of this! i know both the og post, the update, and this reply is super long but thank you anyway for keeping my in your thoughts :) Commenter: So did you dump him or you took a break? OOP: he has been served papers ! The future: i’m doing ok! i’m supposed to come back to my house this coming monday and he should be either fully or mostly moved out. everything’s been smooth so far. he did not deny the affair nor said mean things or gaslight. he didn’t beg for another chance either. he just asked me what i wanted and i said i wanted him to go back to his parents house and we’ll talk about the legal stuff in the near future. i feel a bit numb i suppose. i strangely feel a bit guilty for not having as much heartbreak or a betrayed feeling. some days i convinced myself that i had some fault in our broken marriage because maybe i wasn’t emotionally there as well but i know that i have no responsibility for his choices What caused the green: to be fair, the answer to the question was actually my bedsheets with the possibility of the jeans as well. however it wasn’t even me that brought up the possibility of an affair but several others. the topic being brought up was what got me to dig around. hope that helps !! i think you have to had been there during my first post To another commenter: haha i’m sure it was actually the bedsheets but jeans were a huge topic on my original post! Editor's note: OOP added after this post: ah yes i forgot to include in my update that i did take a preg test to confirm im not pregnant! but i wouldn’t say this is very sad. what’s more sad is if i stayed in this relationship or if i kept continuing on without knowing. it should be a good thing that this ends now :) submitted by /u/LucyAriaRose to r/BestofRedditorUpdates [link] [comments]

My husband has good hygiene, but he is just an oily person, and after awhile (like, two or three years) his pillowcases and his side of the sheets get this waxy coating on them. I've tried so many things to deep clean them, without much luck: vinegar, vinegar and baking soda, washing soda, extra detergent, stain remover. Nothing really seems to penetrate and strip out the waxiness. Suggestions? It's really grossing me out. submitted by /u/SnowEnvironmental861 to r/hygiene [link] [comments]

For the last two years, I’ve been living in a place with awful water, a grimy old machine, and roommates that used way too much detergent. I washed my sheets weekly, sometimes more, and they just became more and more disgusting. I was seriously considering throwing them out because the pillowcases had the consistency of waxed fabric and I could not get the smell out of them. Well, I am now living in a place with a tub and excellent water, so as a last ditch effort, I tried stripping them. I knew these were gross, I knew there was a lot of buildup, I knew they were going to look and feel different, but I was not aware of the extent of those. I did about six hours in the tub, doing a thorough hand wash every hour, wrung ‘em, washed ‘em, dried ‘em, and I’m glad they’re clean but I’m also absolutely disgusted by it. I have slept on these nasty sheets for two years. They look and feel brand new. I’m glad that I don’t have to spend a bunch on new sheets, but I am always going to think of how they were. I am also now very aware of the grime on the rest of the bedding. I’m gonna be doing that a couple more times. First tub pic is actually after an hour. The water was pure white at first. I started referring to it as laundry soup when it started getting bad. submitted by /u/mishyfishy135 to r/CleaningTips [link] [comments]

With ample coverage of the bedbug plague in Paris and word of it spreading out to other countries, a lot of people are saying that it is only a matter of time before it arrives in London (and if Rentokills statistics are anything to go by, it's already begun over here). Having personally heard of a few recent cases of Londoners getting bedbugs after staying in student accomodation, AirBnB's or cheap hotels like Travelodge, I thought it might be handy to do a thread on bedbug signs to look out for and how to avoid them. Size: Adult bedbugs are typically 5-7mm long (which is about the same size as an apple seed) but start off life only 1mm long, which is the same size as their small, white eggs. Appearance: Bedbugs change in both size, shape and colour not just over the course of their lives but also depending on whether they had fed recently, a while ago or a very long time ago. This image https://www.pestworld.org/media/562756/bed-bugs-on-quarter.jpg shows the changes over their lives (plus fed VS unfed) and this image https://citybugs.tamu.edu/files/2010/12/bed-bug-feeding-Whitney-Cranshawb.jpg shows how much a bedbug can change in shape and overall appearance over the course of a single feed. Signs of bedbugs: Gaps: Bedbugs are primarily nocturnal animals and during the day they will retreat into tiny cracks and crevices (which is where they also lay their eggs in), living in colonies, meaning that you don't typically see them scuttling around during the day. Favourite bedbug hiding spots often include seams in mattresses (classic example: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/af/0a/46/af0a46df679d7b121ecaca7053997ff1.jpg ), in-between the joins in bedframes or other furniture and inside splits or holes in wood (classic example: https://u2y4v6x2.rocketcdn.me/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Can-Bed-Bugs-Live-In-Wood-Furniture.jpg ). Patches: Bedbugs diet of blood causes their faeces to stain soft & hard furnishings with small black or dark brown splotches. Because bedbugs are very good at hiding, their existence is more often evidenced by these markings than by the actual bugs themselves, here is a classic example of bedbug faecal splotches on wood https://anchorpestcontrol.net/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/How-to-Get-Rid-of-Bed-Bugs-and-Keep-Them-Out-2.png and here is an example of what their markings look like on a mattress https://www.planetnatural.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/early-signs-of-bed-bugs.png Smells: Bedbugs and their infestations are also associated with certain smells because the animals signal to each other via pheromones which to the human nose often either smell like coriander or raspberries, so much so that in olden times bedbugs used to be called the "Coriander Bug". When a full-blown bedbug infestation is in swing you will often smell either a strange musty berry-like sweet smell emanating from the room, a smell of coriander or an acrid almond-like smell (they can also make rooms smell like old bed linen in general). Skins: Bedbugs repeatedly shed their old skins as they grow larger and develop into adults. Finding evidence of light brown, translucent skins like these https://njaes.rutgers.edu/bed-bug/images/Shed-skins-big.jpg is another common sign that a place has an infestation. Blood: Bedbugs typically only feed on people at night while they are asleep and then retreat before sunrise. They go for any exposed skin they can find and if you have been so unfortunate to sleep in a bed that has bugs then you might see small specks or splotches of red or dried blood on the sheets the next day like this: https://bonaccordpestcontrol.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Signs-of-bed-bugs-red-bloodstains-on-sheets-1.jpg Bite Marks: Bedbugs will typically bite in close patterns like this: https://health.clevelandclinic.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2016/04/bedbugBites-656515070-770x553-2.jpg ) and the bites often display as larger than mosquito bites but unlike mosquito bites they don't always itch (and sometimes present as hive-like markings these: https://cdn-prod.medicalnewstoday.com/content/images/articles/318/318083/line-of-bedbug-bites-on-a-woman-s-back.jpg ). Other signs of infestation: Fumigation chemical smells: We are experiencing bedbug problems because years of laws that reduced the arsenal of highly toxic (but also highly effective) pesticide chemicals meant that over time bedbug treatments became less effective and as bedbugs began to survive treatments, they evolved greater resistance to chemicals. This also means that if a place has been recently fumigated it might not be bedbug-free yet (in fact sometimes places are taking up to 2-3 treatments before they are completely free). Although Sulfuryl Fluoride (the main ingredient in fumigation chemicals) is odorless, Chloropicrin (which smells sweet and is very acrid & harsh to inhale) is added to fumigation mixes to help warn people from entering places that have been recently fumigated. If you suspect that you smell any lingering fumigation smells or see a place being fumigated, it is wise to avoid the whole site as treatments are not always proving effective against bedbug infestations. How bedbugs transmit: Luggage: Unlike headlice or bodylice, bedbugs do not live on people's bodies. Instead, the most common way they get from one place to another is by hiding in the seams or gaps in or on people's luggage. Clothing: Bedbugs can also hide inbetween stacks of clothing inside people's luggage. So, to round up, your plan of action when staying anywhere unfamiliar should be: Smell: Before you put your luggage down, smell the room: Does it smell like coriander, chemicals, old bed linen, musty raspberries or acrid almonds? If so, there could be bedbugs. Mattress: Check the mattress by lifting up the bed sheets and checking along the seams of the mattress for signs of bedbugs and their distinctive faecal patches. Bedrame: Check the bedframe by looking along the joins of the bedframe, behind the headboard and inside any cracks or splits in the wood for signs of bedbugs and their distinctive faecal patches. Luggage: Keep your luggage closed at night and ideally opt for hard-cased luggage bags over soft luggage bags. Clothes: Keep your clothes inside of re-sealable plastic bags. Torch: Pack a small flashlight in your luggage to make checking your room for bedbugs easier. Floor: Don't store your luggage on a carpeted floor, instead opt to store it on a smooth, flat raised surface. Checks: Before you leave your stay, take your luggage into the bathroom (where it is bright & light), shake it out in the bath or shower area and inspect things like the pockets & straps to make sure that no critters have hitched a ride. If you have access to a vacuum hoover, give the luggage a quick going over before you take it with you. Ineffective: Over-the-counter insect repellant sprays and insect killer sprays like Raid are all ineffective in strength against bedbugs and so inadvisable to spray on your luggage, self or clothes, which will unnecessarily expose you to toxic chemicals. Home: Once you get home, keep all your holiday clothes sealed in bags until they have all been washed & laundered with detergents and vacuum hoover the luggage cases. Scents: Bedbugs are reported to not like the smells emitted by natural lavendar, citris fruits, cinnamon & mint, so some people believe that if you make your luggage smell of these scents then it might help to deter bedbugs from hitching a ride on it. If you suspect even the slightest bit that your room might have bedbugs in it, inform the manager straightaway and demand a new room; a hotel has absolutely no right to force you to sleep in or pay for any rooms which have bedbugs in them. The strange behaviours of Paris's bedbugs: Unusual places: Bedbugs always used to be associated with bedrooms and luggage but in recent years there have been increasing reports of people seeing bedbugs in places such as cinema's and on public transport like the Metro systems carriage seats https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPjbn7DuWGY No longer strictly nocturnal: There have also been increasing reports of people witnessing bedbugs actively scuttling around during the daytime. So it is advisable to not just exercise caution when staying in places like AirBnB's, hotels, student accomodation and hostels, but also in other public places that have soft furnishings such as seats on buses, trains, cinema's and tube carriages. Edit: spelling ​ submitted by /u/Creative_Recover to r/london [link] [comments]

I’ve been stripping towels, sheets, undergarments, everything! Thank you to this sub for sharing how to laundry strip! This has completely saved my bath towels and they look brand new! The photo is 2 king bed sheets being stripped with laundry detergent, borax and washing soda. It’s going on 4 hours. So gross but so satisfying! Hopefully this restores my white one to almost new. ✨ submitted by /u/Steel_City835 to r/CleaningTips [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/EJ_Filho to r/WhatsWrongWithYourDog [link] [comments]

My (30M) fiancé (25F) and I have been together for three years, living together for the last year. My fiancé has extremely sensitive skin. She has to be crazy careful with fabrics and detergents, otherwise she’ll break out into hives. It’s miserable for her. We’ve found detergent that doesn’t cause her to have a reaction, and our sheets at home are linen. We visit my mother (60s F) a couple times a year. My mother is the type of person who goes all out with decor- meaning the bedding in the guest bedroom gets changed with the holidays/seasons. Currently the bedding is still winter holiday themed. She has nearly 10 bedding sets for the guest bed, and I hate to sound elitist but as such, none of them are of great quality. My fiancé would always have a reaction when we’ve stayed with my mother in the past. She’s a trooper though, she never complains. We had the idea of just taking a set of our own sheets for when we visit my mother so she wouldn’t have to suffer through another reaction. For reference it’s not like we bring all of our bedding, just two top sheets that my fiancé can sleep between and a pillow case. We also bring a small bottle of our own detergent from home in case we have to wash anything. I never thought this would be an issue, but a few weekends ago we found out apparently it is. We were staying with my mother and exchanging some gifts. My mother gifted my fiancé a sweater and was pushing my fiancé to try it on so she “could make sure it fit right”. I could tell my fiancé was about to do so in order to just please my mother, but I didn’t want her to have a reaction and suffer the rest of the night, so I told my mom to drop it. Basically it turned into this huge deal where my mother said something along the lines of “are my rags not good enough for you princess? (I distinctly remember the princess part) Is that why you have to bring your own fancy sheets and detergent?” My mother then proceeded to insinuate that my fiancé was a gold-digger. When we explained the situation with my fiancé’s skin my mother just brushed it off as her faking. Which, if anybody knows how to fake hives let me know. It ended with me telling my mother that she was way out of line, us leaving that night and my fiancé feeling awful and crying most of the way home. My mother has texted and told me my fiancé and I are being dramatic. My fiancé wants to apologize but I’m currently refusing to. AITA? submitted by /u/Ok-Rate-3667 to r/AmItheAsshole [link] [comments]

I've been seeing a lot of ads for laundry sheet detergents, especially earth breeze. It's all over Facebook. There are many brands that sell laundry sheet detergents for around $20 for 60 loads. Ok, we all get it. Liquid detergents are bad, come in huge wasteful plastic containers and it takes up a ton of water to actually manufacture these liquid detergents. The same reason why we should switch to bar soap, toothpaste tabs etc because we want to safe water during the production process of these products. ​ But I grew up in a household where we use powder detergents. I guess it's an American thing to use the liquid. The powder laundry detergent usually comes in cardboard boxes, only costs you about $8, and lasts probably 6 months. I really don't see why you should spend $20 on these trending laundry sheets which you need to refill every few months. ​ Don't overspend! submitted by /u/Timbo2510 to r/ZeroWaste [link] [comments]