Battery Charger Review

... SD slot. Headphone jack 65Wh battery Great Condition, some light scratches... some scaling like most APUs. Battery still has good life to... told. Comes with box and charger £450 RMSD Excuse the bit... from my ad there. A review An idea of its performance ...

... SD slot. Headphone jack 65Wh battery Great Condition, some light scratches... some scaling like most APUs. Battery still has good life to... told. Comes with box and charger £450 RMSD Excuse the bit... from my ad there. A review An idea of its performance ...

... of NICD ever again. The charger is for NiCD. Nope not... in a very well done review. Beat by Milwaukee but theirs... nimh and use the original charger. Works fine. The tools I... them and make a replacement battery. I know the safetycrats will...

...a great value. In our review, Travis Northup had this to... a 9/10 in our review, offering fantastic lumbar support, ... all been improved. The 30-hour battery life and fast charging feature... a 2.5W Apple Watch charger. All of this comes in...on Amazon. In our RE7 review, Chloi Rad found it “a...even got a chance to review the Samsung P9, and gave... in our Alan Wake 2 review, Tristan Ogilvie found it, "delivers...

... first part is just a review of what the Battery Sensor Module and the BSM...) when using a charger the negative lead of the charger cable must be connected to chassis ground and not directly to the negative battery post. Otherwise you... problem. And 2) If the battery was replaced or charged out ..., when someone installs a new battery, themselves or even at the ... I just had a new battery put in my car at ...

...Body & F210 Tips Compatibility. Review: ## 1. Design and Build...screen that shows real-time temperature, battery status, and set points. Build... 65W–100W depending on the charger/cable used). ## 3. Practicality ...not in use to preserve battery life and prevent accidents. ## ... that require massive thermal mass. Battery Life: For long bench sessions (...the gap between weak "AA battery" irons of the past and ...

I wanted to test the Grading function on a couple of my old LiIon and on an AAA Eneloop Pro that has very low output. I found the operation of the charger very easy to figure out. It detects battery chemistry automatically, and sets the charge rate automatically, both of which work very well. The charger came with a USB A to C cable, as well as a power block with a USB C port. I used a C to C cable that I already had. I like that the VX2 Pro offers a Refresh function for NiMh, as well as a Grading function that measures mAh capacity of LiIon batteries. In addition to basic charge and discharge functions, it also has a storage function for LiIon. It is a very full featured package. Recommended. Im very grateful to Xtar for sending me this charger for review. I loaded a old unbranded 14500, and an old Lumintop 16340 w Mini USB port into the charger, set to the Grading mode. The two separate battery slots operate independently and can be loaded with different battery chemistries, set to different functions such as Grading for LiIon and Refresh for Nimh: I noted that the Internal Resistance (IR) of the blue 14500 was 51 mΩ, much lower than the IR of the old 16340, whose resistance showed 216 mΩ. I found it useful to see the difference in IR of the two batteries as I suspected for some time that the 16340 was getting past its useful life. Take IR numbers as an approximation, as the results will vary each time the same battery is inserted into the charging slot. After the charger finished its grading cycle, it indicated that the blue 14500 rated as 850 mAh on the label, now has a capacity of 731 mAh, just 14% lower, and an IR of 51 mΩ. Based on the capacity and IR, the charger confirmed that this battery does not need to be recycled yet. It is still useful to me, especially at the relatively low outputs, that I use, primarily indoors. The charger indicated that the 16340 has a capacity of 498 mAh, and an IR of 216 mΩ. Its original rated capacity was 700 mAh, so it has lost almost 30% of its capacity. Based on the IR, the charger confirmed that this battery is getting old. However, Im going to keep it a little longer, until it is no longer useful at the relatively low outputs I use indoors. I then removed the 16340 and used that slot to test the Refresh function on an old AAA Eneloop Pro. The VX2 Pro at first proceeded to do a Charge cycle on the old Eneloop, it got up to 1.56V and then switched to a Discharge cycle. After which it recharged and then reached the Done stage. The IR indicated 236 mΩ. I removed the battery and tested it in a Thrunite Ti3. The old Eneloop Pro only produced a maximum output of 14 lumens. The Ti3 with a new AAA 1.5V LiIon gives 92 lumens. The old Eneloop Pro had the same limited 14 lumen output before using the Refresh function in the VX2 Pro. The charger was not able to increase the output of the old AAA Eneloop Pro. I reserve the tired old battery for use at low output indoors. I really like the versatility of this Xtar VX2 Pro charger (unaffiliated Amazon link), as it works with all of my battery chemistries. I also like that it gives approximate IR for them, and that it estimates the capacity of my LiIon batteries. It is a very convenient full featured package. submitted by /u/jonslider to r/flashlight [link] [comments]

Hi everyone, I done some simpler PCBs before, but this is my first review request and complexest project yet. I tried to design a LiPo balance charging board which is capable to charge 1s to 7s (well, i only got use for 3s to 6s LiPo and LiHV right now), it is powered over USB PD and can be used up to 3 in a row. Main components are: STM32G0B1RCT6 - main controller, handles overall communication of charging/balancing ICs, external components and USB PD. BQ76907- battery monitor and balancing IC. The single cells are connected over 10k resistors for use of different cell counts. I read from the technical reference that normally the cells have to be connected in a defined way to the IC, so this is a workaround to overcome that (well, it was suggested from AI but for me it seemed plausible and i did not see another way). There is a ISO1540 I2C isolator in case the battery is disconnected from the main circuit as protection with Q2/Q3 BQ25690 - charging buck/boost controller AP63203 - 3V3 switching buck converter with high input voltage support My plan is to use up to 3 of these in a row, for that are the 3 connectors (CN4 to CN6) and additional main power pads. The STM32 got 3 I2C Controller, one for every pair/board and is only soldered on one board. The others will only get the balance and charging IC (no USB port and no 3V3 buck) soldered. I don't plan to use more than 60W as this is the maximum rating of the USB-C port. The charging-power will be set according to the available input-power over the STM32. I got some DRC at the USB-C port on the VCC ports but I figured its not problematic (last picture)? The additional header are for debugging and adding a screen later on to control the "charger" (using an esp32 or something like that with (touch)-screen) Thanks in advance for any input! submitted by /u/_shexplorer to r/PCB [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Relative_Total_7726 to r/golfcarts [link] [comments]

I sent this email to Deka customer service: I bought two batteries last year (2025) in May, both being Lead Acid batteries: Deka Ultimate 34/78 800 CCA Deka Gold 59R 600 CCA When I bought these batteries, from day one, I've used a NOCO GENIUS 2 charger on each of them (2 identical chargers). The 34/78 is on the charger 24/7 when I'm not driving it. I rarely drive the car, except for once a week to go grocery shopping. The rest of the time it sits on the charger. The 59R battery is placed on the charger every weekend, with the car being driven about 5 or 6 day of the week for short, 10 minute drives every day. I've been testing these batteries from day 1 by measuring the voltage drop when the car is started, to put some load on it. I use the MIN/MAX feature on my multi-meter to test this. The 34/78 battery initially tested at a strong MIN voltage of 11.06V during start, and about 10 months later is only testing at a MIN voltage of 10.63V at start. Each test was completed after fully charging the battery the night before, and letting the voltage rest overnight. The 59R battery initially tested at a strong MIN voltage of 10.97V at start, and about 10 months later is only testing at a MIN voltage of 10.75V at start. Same test conditions as the other battery. Based on my understanding, if the MIN voltage when starting the car dips below 10.5V, it's a sign that the battery is getting weak and it may be time to start thinking about a replacement battery sooner than later, especially if the cold winter is soon ahead. We can get down to maybe -20F in my area. So a few of my thoughts: Both batteries seem to be degrading faster than I anticipated. The 34/78 has dropped from 11.06 to 10.63 volts (0.43V drop) in just 10 months, and the 59R dropped from 10.97 to 10.75 (0.22V drop) in the same 10 months. Is this to be expected? The battery that sits on the NOCO Genius 2 trickle charger 24/7 when not being driven has performed the worst in testing. It almost seems that it would be better if I didn't keep it on the charger. --- Deka customer service replied back with this: Amazon reviews and various message boards suggest NOCO products may have some inconsistencies. I have no first hand experience with NOCO. They look good on paper. The typical use of a charger is to take a discharged battery, too low to start the engine due to a mistake, and restore it to use so it can start the engine and subsequently be maintained by the alternator. A maintainer may charge 24/7/365 at a lower voltage or it may employ some other strategy. It is not clear what the strategy is here: “BEYOND MAINTENANCE CHARGING: Say goodbye to trickle chargers and welcome the most advanced battery maintenance charger ever. It's completely automatic, reconditions every 24-hours, and never overcharges.” The manual does not explain the algorithm further. A typical car runs almost every day, about an hour a day. Consequently, the battery charges at about 14 volts for about 7 hours per week. Some modern charging systems may charge even less while the car is running for fuel economy. The typical car starting battery is not worked to death. The typical car starting battery fails as a result of positive grid corrosion which is a function of temperature profile (climate plus temperature elevation while operating). “Climate” is affected by parking location such as in a garage. Warmer climate, shorter calendar life. Parked for a short trip to the grocery store once every 7 days, the parasitic loads would be draining the battery with a relatively short (no specified) period of charging by the alternator. 50 mA (estimated) * 168 hours = 8.4 ampere-hours per week. That would be about 13% depth of discharge for either battery. If not for that weekly trip, after 4-5 weeks of no use, you could be at risk for no-starts. Certain lead acid batteries will benefit from continuous charging at what is called a “float” voltage. It minimizes positive grid aging. Flooded starting battery separator on the other hand would prefer not to be float charged 24/7/365. “Reconditioning every 24-hours” sounds more aggressive than a continuous float charging maintenance strategy. Without a complete understanding of the NOCO GENIUS 2 maintenance algorithm, I don’t know if your batteries are already at risk of premature failure. If it is going to happen, you are not quite there yet. I don’t know your exact parasitic loads, but 4 hours per week should be ample charging beyond a trip to the store. Consider a 7-day timer charging only 4 hours per week split between 1 to 4 events. Any damage already done can’t be reversed, we can only attempt to slow further damage. It is not possible to restore electrolyte levels in this battery if excessive charging has occurred. As to the “59R”, if it is not connected to any load, charging once per month or even less would be ample. I would not expect any significant damage has occurred by charging once per week for 10 months if the charger is working properly. We have a 59 but not 59R and it is not quite rated 600 CCA. A 696RMF at 600CCA would be proper battery for a number of Focus years and models. Healthy battery terminal voltage during cold engine cranking may drop to 7.2 volts or even further. Voltage without knowing the current is meaningless. The state of charge (very good in your case) and the core temperature (ambient if steady for a long period) are other factors calling for a higher voltage in this case. The standard load test for evaluating a battery in service is a constant rate of ½ the CCA rating. The voltage must be 9.6 or higher at 15 seconds assuming room temperature and an adequate initial charge level. There is a sliding scale of voltage limits for lower and higher core battery temperatures applicable to this specific load. Many auto parts stores will test a battery for free with conductance. It is best to have a high state of charge and be resting at least 4 hours. It is best to not be connected in the vehicle you just drove there to run the test. --- My Thoughts Besides going to get an actual load test, it seems to me that Deka may be blaming the continuous float charging for my battery tests showing poor results after 10 months. I did a lot of research before buying the NOCO's and I was under the impression that Lead Acid batteries preferred to remain at full charge when not in use, hence I'm keeping my mostly non-driven car on the charger whenever possible. Could someone please help me understand what Deka is saying so that I know the proper way to maintain my batteries, if what I'm doing is not proper? submitted by /u/keepit-simple to r/batteries [link] [comments]

I’ve been putting my OnePlus Nord 6 through its paces, and the battery life is actually insane. I just finished a cycle where I went almost a full 24 hours (23h 10m) without touching a charger. 100% to 16%: Still had plenty left in the tank. Screen On Time (SOT): A massive 9 hours and 55 minutes. Background Usage: On top of the SOT, I had 7- 8 hours of background playback (yt premium) for music and podcasts throughout the day. I played wuthering waves , bgmi , clash royale and dragon ball legends as well. I’m honestly impressed with how well this thing handles a mix of heavy active use and constant background streaming. For a mid-range flagship, the optimization is definitely on point. submitted by /u/TickleYoAss to r/oneplusnord [link] [comments]

This laptop charger was delivered in a brown cardboard box, which did not make for an aesthetically pleasing unboxing, but it was well-packed. It was encased in a loose bag of bubble wrap and each wire was bound with a black twist-tie. I bought this laptop charger as a backup for my Dell Inspiron. It arrived and it indeed works with the laptop I intended it to work with. I tried but it will not charge my Ring batteries, dog's GPS collar, and it will not power my kitchen vacuum sealer, so just be aware it is not a one-size-fits all piece of equipment. It doesn't get warm when it's charging, which is comforting because that always makes me nervous. My great-uncle was killed by an overheating laptop charger so that's always on my mind. The cord on this charger is a total of 62" long, including the prongs. It weighs precisely 6.24 oz according to my Mettler Toledo XPE, which I keep on hand for product review purposes. It fits into a three-prong US outlet. It's an attractive black matte color. I plan to use this laptop charger as a back up that I can keep at the office so I do not have to haul my only laptop charger back and forth from home to work. If I had to name this charger, I would name him James. Sturdy. Dependable. Slightly aloof, but with a dry wit. James is there when you need him, doesn't complain about the workload, and doesn't need a lot of reassurance. His ego doesn't need your patronizing feel-good drivel. In case you can't see in the listing photos, the underside of the AC adapter on the laptop charger says PA-12 Family 19.5V 3.34A 65.0W LPS; Input 100-240V ~1.6A 50-60Hz Model LA65NS2-01. The charger is labeled "Made in China". submitted by /u/CupImpossible to r/AmazonVine [link] [comments]