Grommet Tool Kit

...TR9110 shock? And which nitrogen kit you bought off ebay? ...I inserted a small rubber grommet between the nut and the...similar instead of a grommet, or buy a different needle tool. You should see pressure... nitrogen, I bought this kit in Australia. It’s a disposable ...size gas regulator fitting. The kit is simpler. This regulator controls ...I bought an Ohlins 1860-01 tool to remove/insert the compression ...

... story!) Having sold the Exocet kit that I build and then..., which use a tubular plastic tool to extract them before then... work to extract. Thankfully the tool is readily available - and ... front ARB bushes, or the grommet where the steering rack goes ...), and fitted the Hurricane induction kit that I had picked up ...

...) crowbar Coolant refill and purge kit (funnel and correct adapter for... the fan. Use a pick tool to open the clip. Push... it fits into a rubber grommet below. Connect back a coolant... coolant with the coolant replacement kit funnel as well as fill...

... fab work on the battery/tool box which will sit in... build, this fifty dollar Amazon kit was the best: Installing it... me dead (like needing a grommet or connector that I don’t ...

... lot of wires behind the grommet and it’s tight. I used... tin snips to cut the grommet followed by a fish tape. ... 20’ 4 gauge amp wiring kit - $45 Ferrules, various terminals ... removal tools, Dremel, Oscillating Power tool, Circuit tester, Multimeter, Tin snips, ...

... have a metal trim removal tool in addition to knowing you're... toilet snake but the snake tool was too big and kept... using a long flexible grab tool and taped over the grab... plastic cup in the 2 grommet holes first (and there is... entirety with a replacement mounting kit that came with my Wolfbox...

....html You will need one grommet for every flipper mechanism. ----------... the switch contacts. Replace the grommet, replace the red peg. When... you replaced the grommet, you'll have changed the 'rest' .... Preferably use a switch adjustment tool for leaf switch adjustments, if ... haven't done a flipper rebuild kit on this flipper when the ...

... cable using a heavy-duty crimping tool. A proper crimp is required... connection. If a suitable crimping tool is not available, one should... firewall using an existing rubber grommet to prevent chafing. Continue routing... one that came with the kit or purchase an aftermarket plastic...

... up properly. The trim removal tool that they give you is... bigger more proper trim removal tool or a set off Amazon... that comes standard with the kit to go to the front... or your own trim panel tool you can tuck that wire... is via the included hardwire kit that will take you down... area, simply locate the large grommet at the firewall and make ... Easy installation process Trim removal tool is more of a wire...

... included walking back to the tool box a couple times. You ... a new addition to the kit. There wasn't anything in the ... more and then get a grommet for it. This is the ... line that comes with the kit is 36". I think I'm ...

Got the time this weekend to install a set of Baja Design Squadrons on the truck, as well as an Auxbeam controller mounted on a BulletPoint Mount system. Overall not a bad install, took about a day with little to no wiring experience. A little bit of extra drilling to make it as neat as possible, but aside from some touchups, it’s pretty much finished and working nicely. I listed below all the parts and tools that I used for this in case anyone is interested in going the same route. PARTS: Lights: BAJA DESIGNS - Squadron Sport - Amber (Driving Combo) Controller: AUXBEAM - RA60 (Extra 3ft cable is not needed, you can just purchase the basic set) Dash Mount: BULLETPOINT MOUNTING SOLUTIONS - Rubigrid base with 1 Amp ball for ‘22-24 Frontier (2025+ is different) - Auxbeam 6 Gang Switch Panel w/ 1cm arm TOOLS: - Drill with bits capable of drilling into at least plastic, but preferably metal as well (Will need to widen hole in Rubigrid to pull Auxbeam cable through) - Fiberglass Wire Running Kit ($10 at Harborfreight, saves a lot of time & effort, was more effective than a clothes hanger) - Heavy Duty Velcro (For mounting Auxbeam onto fuse panel covers in engine bay) -A basic socket set, 15MM wrench, and a torx bit for the Squadrons. - Electrical Tape - Multipurpose Wire Stripper/Crimper/Cutter Plenty of YouTube videos out there detailing how to install each thing. For the Auxbeam, the main difference I see in most videos was the firewall approach, and the fuse used to power the Auxbeam. I ended up tapping the Right side clearance light fuse, so the Auxbeam is powered on anytime the lights are on. This website offers pretty good diagrams of the fuses on our vehicles. In terms of clearing the firewall, I went through the driver side grommet, and still had plenty of cable left without using an extension. Hope this helps someone! submitted by /u/captaineddboi to r/nissanfrontier [link] [comments]

Does anyone know where I can buy good grommets for corsets? I bought a kit already with a good tool and the grommets it comes with are perfect. They're silver though and I want to buy some in gold. I looked on amazon and a lot of the reviews for gold grommets are terrible. I also dont want to buy a whole new kit with a new tool since I already have one. Any suggestions? submitted by /u/Novel-Giraffe-48893 to r/sewing [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Electrical-Aspect-13 to r/interestingasfuck [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Deep-Computer-6928 to r/StrangeYetUseful [link] [comments]

Hi, I'm wanting to drill some holes in my laminate-coated MDF desk to install some cable ducts/grommets. Just wondering which type of holesaw will be best for the job. A reputable local (New Zealand) brand, Sutton, sells a 3-tooth TCT "General purpose" holesaw as well as a bi-metal one, which they seem to market as being primarily for metals (see the two pictures in this post for pictures of them). They advertise the 3-tooth TCT one as being 5x faster for cutting into wood. I'm partly making this post because I emailed Sutton for their opinion and the representative said the bi-metal one "will be just fine". I also made a post in r/diynz and someone recommended the bi-metal one as, they said, it would be less likely to cause chipping (and of course, if you ever need to cut metal, it's handy in that sense). This advice, which seems to contradict Sutton's own marketing, also concerns me for another reason: I was cutting some holes into a 9mm piece of laminate-coated MDF the other day with a holesaw I had lying around and it was genuinely horrible. It took incredibly long, and I had to put an immense amount of pressure on it. I think I bought the holesaw with a door installation kit a while ago, likely a budget one - it had no branding and had lots of teeth (like bi-metal ones do). So, it could well just be a quality related issue with that particular holesaw, but it's made me worried that other ones with the high teeth count design could also give me trouble (my desk is 21mm thick). Sutton Bi-metal ($28.80 NZD): https://www.bunnings.co.nz/sutton-60mm-viper-bimetal-cobalt-holesaw_p0588927 Sutton 3-tooth TCT ($38 NZD): https://www.bunnings.co.nz/sutton-tools-60mm-tct-multi-purpose-holesaw_p0147066 Thanks for any advice. submitted by /u/Hentrox to r/Tools [link] [comments]

INTRO: I am writing this up to hopefully assist others in their journey for better quality audio. I LOVE my Trailsport but did not find a 3-4k price increase just for some extra cameras, sub-par Bose system, and ventilated seats. SO, I took that money and will be building out my own audio setup. (Ill try adding a video for a visual) That being said, I will outline what I did on mine, the parts I used, and hopefully assist in issues along the way. I am NOT a professional installer, but ide like to think im pretty handy. So work with me here a bit :) PARTS LIST: Door panel removal tool kit Seal tape Kicker KS 6.5 component speakers Backstrap metal brackets (for custom mount of tweeter since factory locations arent direct mount) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005V9V0K4/?coliid=ILT77JGS7LETQ&colid=328LGXBCMXNA3&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it As for the polarity, I tested each speaker using speaker wire and a battery (use speaker wire and touch the terminals for a moment. If the cone moves outward, then you have the correct polarity and the battery + is connected to the + terminal). Rear left Green = + Rear right Green = + Font right Red = + Front left Pink = + FRONT DOOR SEAL: Running a clean install is important and I wanted my tweeter wires to go through the grommet and into the pillar. So please note that there is an open spot to feed the wire through the harness connect. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE HARNESS OR DRILL A HOLE!!! Just pull the rubber piece, feed your speaker wire through, and re-seat the rubber back over the harness so that it is weather tight. WARNING: this is a pain in the ass but it helps to use a pick set in the process since it’s a tight space. REAR DOOR TWEETER: If you are running the kicker KS speakers, there are TONS of adapters. I simply popped out the plastic cover, pushed the tweeter through, and used the back threaded ring to tighten it down. It barely, and I mean BARELY covered the cloth, but turned out looking so clean. No cutting or dremel required. SPEAKER BRACKET: These adapters are for a 2006-2012 Honda cars but DOES fit the 2026 Honda passport without issue. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C86HEV2/?coliid=I13K8H7ICJRWQB&colid=328LGXBCMXNA3&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it_im NOTE: you will need to pickup seal tape from home depot and tape around the outer edge to ensure a tight seal and prevent wiggle. Double check the width and specific size. I cant remember which I used. I brought the speaker adapter into home depot to size it up. https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-0-75-in-x-10-ft-Gray-Foam-Window-Seal-for-Ex-Large-Gaps-Weatherstrip-Roll-02311/100166566 CONCLUSION: I am VERY happy with the way it turned out and the sound from the tweeters and speakers are not even close to OEM. I can only imagine how much better it will be once the kicker key amp is installed and tuned. Hope this all helps! CHEERS ALL! Happy trails in your trailsport! -Jaymes submitted by /u/Head-Influence-671 to r/hondapassport [link] [comments]

Has anyone purchased a tool/press/pliers for repairing boot eyelets? I lost one this season and I know a few guys that have lost one here or there. I thought it would be a good investment. I've searched Amazon but can't seem to find what would work best for a skate boot. submitted by /u/AdamAtNight to r/InlineHockey [link] [comments]

Good Morning! New to this stuff but I plan on building my own 9’x10’ enclosure with 5’ of depth. Standing 11’ to 12’ away while hitting. Projector will be mounted above, 5’ away on top of the enclosure. Foam and artificial turf for floor with a hitting mat. put together a list of what I plan to use. I want to get cost down but also want quality as well. If you guys have any tips or items you guys use that may be a better fit feel free to suggest! Thank you in advance! 1. 36- 24”x24” 3/4 Foam Blocks $220 https://wfathleticsupply.com/cart.php 12x12 Artificial Turf $420 https://www.homedepot.com/p/LITA-GOLF-Putting-Green-12-ft-W-x-Cut-To-Length-Green-Artificial-Grass-Turf-LT-12G-12FT/326740675 6- F3 Carl’s Place Conduit Fittings $84 3- C Carl’s Place Conduit Fittings $24 2- L Carl’s Place Conduit Fittings $20 70’- 1” EMT Conduit $140 1- 9’x10’ Carl’s Place Preferred Impact Screen $400 8’x30’ Thick Black Fabric for sides $200 Grommet Tool Kit for fabric $50 30’ HDMI Cord (Amazon) $32 Garmin Approach R10 $600 BenQ TH671ST Projector $950 Homemade Projector arm $100 Total Cost $3,240 ◦ submitted by /u/ImperfectGravity to r/Golfsimulator [link] [comments]

Hello all, I figured I would write this review to hopefully help others as I had a lot of questions when I went into the project. It's going to be long. Over the weekend I installed the Alpine full plug and play S-series coax audio system from trail seven. My bronco is a 2022 2-door Base non B&O standard transmission(this is important later). I also did the soundskins full dampening system. The plug and play bundle came with everything, 2 dash, 2 kicker, 2 upgraded 6.5 pods/trails seven pods, 12"sub with tailgate mount, amp and lc5i. To give you perspective, I am a YouTube mechanic, it took me 2 days to do the full install but I took my time and was in the middle of a winter storm. For the soundsskins you will have to rip out all of the interior. So that's where I will start. Soundskins- This was all pre-cut with every bolt hole perfectly matched up. Install was very time consuming but overall worth it. The hard part is removing the center console, which is the only extra I wouldn't have had to remover if I was just doing the audio system. This stuff definitely improved road noise and keeps the new system very contain. A friend said the sound coming out of the car was very minimal from the outside. It's very thick though and getting some of the panels back on was a little more difficult because of the space it takes up. Not a show stopper but something you will likely run into. The backing is also very hard to get off especially when it's cold. Highly recommend you warm it up to get the backing off. Also clean your panels before applying. Very dummy proof though. On to the audio system. Dash and Kick panel speakers- Alpine S40 4" Coax Alpine S65 6.5" Coax Straight forward install, if you watch the YouTube video it makes it very easy. Only recommendation would be to watch your wire management. These came pre wired with the connector but you do have to move some wires around to get them to sit properly. I have seen where the speaker grille kick panel did not fit because of the tweeter, this was not the case and if it doesn't fit, you likely need to make some adjustments to the panel. Rear pods- Alpine S65 6.5" Coax TrailSeven Enclosure These came ready to go including the sound dampening. The only thing I will state is loosen the whole bracket to help maneuver while installing. Sub and box Alpine S2-W12D4 TrailSeven Tailgate mount box This thing bumps. I listen to mostly hard rock and metal but it works well especially in the break downs. Like the others you will have all the wires already set. These are not harness plugs though so you will have to put the wires in the connector, not difficult. The hard part is the rivet nuts which you most certainly need a tool for. I tried the nut/blot trick and was not successful. After I got the tool. They went right on. You will also need zip ties or tape to run the wires with the tailgate wires. Trailseven already sound skins the inside of the box and provides you with some for the tailgate. I will say this was not a well precut as the other which I got from extreme terrain. I had to modify it a bit. Nothing crazy. The kit also came with a sub volume knob which I replaced with the alpine brand because I purchased it not knowing it came with one. This currently does not work and I'm still unsure why, likely plugged into the incorrect port but waiting on TrailSeven support to see what they say. Which now would be a good time to stop and say TrailSeven support is next level. They will answer any question and they sent me the wrong grille for the sub, no questions asked shipped me the correct one. Highly commend their customer service. Amp and LC5i- Alpine A55 I know nothing about this stuff and that's one of the biggest reasons I went with this kit. I knew the stock system sucks and I wanted something better. This system came with all the wires and setting preset. The only thing I had to do was adjust the gain. I honestly don't know if I did it correctly or not but it sounds great to me. The bracket is heavy duty and the fact that it's hidden and safe behind the side panel makes it that much better. Don't ask me about the LC5i, I couldn't even tell you what it does, but it's there and works. The only thing I would change is the fact that in the 2 door you must remove the seatbelt to mount the amp and the adjustments are on the side. Meaning I have to remove a panel, seatbelt and the entire sub to make any adjustments, so try to get it right the first time. When it warms up, I may make adjustments but for now it's pretty perfect. Another thing I found was the bracket doesn't come with a bolt to mount, you are supposed to use the factory bolt but my setup didn't have one because I didn't have the fake sub/amp setup. Easily fixed with a nut/bolt/washer. The last thing I will say, if you have the cubby hole instead of the flat panel, you will need to burrow out the plastic rivets and removed the cubby. TrailSeven makes a nice looking replacement panel. On to wiring which I did run into an issue with, hence the transmission is important. Like I said before, all wiring is hooked up, you are just doing cable management, which can be a task. In the two door, you need to run the wires under the carpet and be sure that it's not in the way when replacing panel. Luckily for me, I had everything out because of the soundskins. Starting with the harness, this thing is bulky but it will fit behind the has panels. They are fragile though, I managed to get through the entire install with only breaking one clip. You will need to push the harness in while you replace the panels. As for the power cable, you are supposed to cut into a grommet in the firewall. Unfortunately for me, this is the same place the clutch goes so it cannot be used. I ended up using the main harness grommet but be careful as you don't want to cut any of these wires and the plastic is thick. Find a spot and poke a pick through it, then cut your cross section. You will also need zip ties to make sure the harness line is secure and not in the way under the drive side panel. The instructions for dialing in the amp are pretty straight forward, you are basically adjusting the gains and verifying all the setting are in the right spot. All of which are mark by trail seven on the lc5i. I couldn't tell you if I did this correctly because I'm not exactly sure what I'm listening for but it sounds good to me. I will say when I turn them on for the first time, I noticed there was a lot of base, the vocals were very clear, but the instruments sounded lower volume and more high pitched. This could be due to my ignorance but I think I have it fixed now with forscan. Forscan-Normal disclaimer, don't mess with stuff unless you are confident and willing to take the risk. TrailSeven states this isn't necessary, again could be my ignorance and it could be placebo but they sound a lot better after these changes so here's what I did. Capital X represents the value you need to change. EQ-flat - found in the ACM as built 727-01-02 xxXX-xxxx-xxxx change XX to 00 You may notice your system acting funny for a minute but it will return to normal, mine set the volume to 18 and anytime I would try to put it down, it would pop up 18 again. It restarts and works fine, notices a lot more clarity when I did this. Pod changes- found in ACM as built 727-01-01 There is two number you need to change in this to make the pods full range(I believe that's the term) xxxx-XXxx-xxxx Change to 2 and 8 respectively This changes the pods from tweeter only to speaker tweeter. I believe this made a significant change but again I don't know if it actually did or it's in my head. There are a tone of videos on this. The video I found helpful is below. https://youtu.be/gdGYIiM3Lvs So to wrap it up, this system is awesome and for the convenance and customer service you receive from TrailSeven totally justify the price to me. The S-series is significant enough quality upgrade for me even though I went into a spiral trying to figure out which speakers to get. I'm glad I went with these entry level, they did not disappoint and the price was good compared to the higher quality speakers like the R-series and hertz, I'm sure they are better but for the normal person these are perfect. I'm sure I missed something but hope this helps everyone! submitted by /u/fender12 to r/FordBronco [link] [comments]

I'm setting up a basic kit, and starting with some of the bare essentials on which I'll definitely need to spend money, I'd really like some recommendations on where to start looking. Brands that have done right by you, perhaps specific pieces of gear. I've got my tools set out already, knives, a hatchet, a saw, so this is about some of the other fundamentals. This inquiry came mostly from looking at tarps. A lightweight synthetic tarp is probably an easy thing to upsell a crappy version of. They're lightweight, and so won't be the most durable thing in the world by nature, but I'm guessing there are some brands whose products stand out. I just want a reliable, lightweight 12x12 or 10x10 tarp which packs small and has grommets along the perimeter. Most of what I'm seeing has all these superfluous, unnecessary loops sewn in around the mass of the tarp, which I can only imagine becoming a point of failure. So what would y'all recommend for a basic, lightweight, grommeted tarp? Since I'm here asking about a tarp, I'll inquire about some other items. Here, I know what I'm looking for, and am mostly asking for company recommendations. I prefer small, family owned companies or companies you happen to know make a stellar product. This list includes, but is not limited to; Oil canvas tarp, also preferably 12x12, but 10x10 works, too. Basic perimer grommets. I could make this myself, but I'd have to buy some extra tools for grommeting. Wool blanket, probably 85-15 wool-synthetic, maybe 90-10? Paracord. I'm kind of treating this like pizza, even bad pizza is good, but great pizza is phenomenal, so if you happen to have found any particularly spectacular paracord in your time, I'd love to hear about it. Otherwise, it's paracord, whatever I buy, it'll probably do its job. Sleeping mats? Pine boughs are plentiful in my neck of the woods, but if y'all have any good recommendations for a mat to add to the bedroll, please speak up! The earth has its own core temperature. If it's not too cumbersome, I don't mind an extra layer to keep the earth from stealing my core temperature, too. My list is probably missing some things, so please feel free to share any kind of tried and true, old-trusty type gear recommendations. Backpacks, bags, water/cooking containers, collapsible stoves, socks, whatever. Thanks in advance! submitted by /u/holyfire001202 to r/Bushcraft [link] [comments]

This is the Kelly Anorak from Closet Core Patterns. They label this as an Advanced pattern and I absolutely agree with that assessment. The pattern called for a lot of different techniques and putting in all the closures like the snaps and grommets takes a careful eye to make sure everything is lined up and doesn't bunch. However, while advanced, the instructions are easy to follow and there are wonderful sew along videos on their website to help if you get stuck on a step. This took me approximately 20 hours to make, spread out over evenings through a couple of weeks. The main fabric is a heavyweight twill I purchased from our local fabric mercantile, and the lining is the Wildwood Enchantments viscose twill in navy that was a Mood afabrics exclusive. If you decide to make this pattern I absolutely suggest purchasing the hardware kit from Closet Core Patterns. It has all the closures you need including the zipper, snaps, grommets, drawstring, and more. If you don't also have the tools to insert the closures, you'll want to pick up the setting kits for the snaps and grommets. I actually made this jacket a few years ago, but never got around to posting it. However I recently made and posted a Christmas dress that I had used leftover lining fabric from this project to line the bodice. People really responded to the lining fabric on that post and encouraged me to post this original project, so here ya go! submitted by /u/dextrouskat to r/sewing [link] [comments]

Hello all, I’ve been doing some research on leather crafting and would like to seriously get into it. I have started archery, which is why I am here - I am planning to make my husband and I arrow quivers for when we go out and shoot at the range. I am starting with mine, so I can practice and make tweaks before making his. I don’t want to attempt putting an outside pocket on the quiver, I don’t think I have the skill to shape and mold a rounded pocket piece. The quiver itself will be pretty basic, no stamping or other decorative elements, as I would become too obsessed with lining up the stamping perfectly. However, if there is a tool for hand tooling designs into leather I could totally do that, I love drawing. The hang straps will have grommets and buckles to adjust the length, and will be attached to the quiver via D ring tabs on the quiver itself. Right now, I am thinking I will place an order with Springfield Leather for the leather, hardware, and tools I will need. Here is my list of what’s in my cart currently: 5sq ft 5-6oz chrome tan leather Matching waxed thread 20 1/2” grommets 10 Chicago screws 1/2” round punch (for the 1/2” grommets 3/16” round punch (for Chicago screws) 3 buckles (two for the hanger straps, one for belt) 2 D rings I have a mediocre grommet installation kit from Joann’s, and leather sewing needles already. I have a few questions - will 5sq ft of leather be enough for a quiver, hang tabs/straps, and a belt? Do I need to invest in a better grommet installation kit? If yes, recommendations? Will I need to soak the leather to make it pliable to shape into the quiver shape? If yes, I can look up YouTube videos on this…. Is there any tool or technique I should know/do to finish the seams/edges of this project? I wasn’t planning on it but if there is something I need to do, I am open to it. I am an experienced garment sewist and have a really good brain for picturing what shapes turn into finished objects. I am also excellent at hand sewing so no worries on the tedium of hand sewing the whole thing. I just want to make sure I have all the materials I need in one order. submitted by /u/swimbikesewknit to r/Leathercraft [link] [comments]

I am new to making grommets. What hand held grommet tool I need to get to put tiny grommets with inner diameter 2 mm? I need to put grommets in fabric belt I am making. Are hand held grommet tools come in different sizes depending how large the grommet? Any good tools, not too cheaply/flimsy ? Thx! submitted by /u/WorthSecurity2299 to r/sewing [link] [comments]

I’m in the process of installing a new LED light kit on my Hampton Bay ceiling fan, but it seems I need to retain the old bracket that previously held the 3 screw-in bulbs. I’m trying to figure out the easiest way to remove the… grommets (?!) that hold the light bulb sockets in place. My first thought was a rotary tool, but I’m open to any suggestion that leaves the larger plate/bracket intact with a minimum of effort. submitted by /u/darkmattr to r/DIY [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/BroMandi to r/HomeShopping [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/BroMandi to r/Deals_HomeImprovement [link] [comments]

Question aimed at other stringers. After 20 years stringing tennis and squash rackets, mostly for self, family and friends but also fellow club members, I think I need a better way of replacing broken grommets than the ad hoc technique I've used until now. I don't do loads, maybe a handful a month at most. Need recommendations for a value for money tool to remove broken grommets. Plus a good place to buy packs of replacement grommets. Thanks in advance you legends! submitted by /u/scorzon to r/squash [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/kamala14 to r/SacramentoBuyNothing [link] [comments]

Edit3: Sunroof drain leak info overhaul. Thanks u/p3dal. Edit2: Update to v2. Fixed formatting. Updates include difficulty level, service intervals, electric steering lock issue. Edit1: Format fixes Hello everyone! I figured I'd compile this thread for anyone thinking of buying a g37 or anyone that already has one and wants to know more about their car. If anyone has any input or catches any typos please let me know! Technicals Service Bulletins (TSBs) Refer to this pdf for a list of TSBs. If you're having an issue, you may just find it here. https://infinitig37.com/Infiniti-G37-Technical-Support-Bullitins.html Service Intervals Please refer to the Infiniti Service and Maintenance Guide and Factory Service Manual (FSM). I'll drop my recommendations here, which fall between the severe service schedule and the less severe service schedule. Every 5000 miles/8000 Km or 6 months Engine Oil(5w30) and Engine Oil Filter 10,000-15,000 miles/16,000-25,000 Km or yearly Cabin Air Filter Engine Air Filters 30,000-40,000 miles/48,000-64,000 Km or 3 years Manual transmission(GL4 75w85) 5 speed auto(matic J or matic S ONLY) Brake/Clutch fluid(DOT 3 is the minimum but I would use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 especially for the clutch. Do not use DOT 5) Differential(GL5 75w90 or GL5 80w90. SAE 90 can be used in temps above 32 degrees) 50,000-60,000 miles/80,000-96,000 Km or 5 years Transfer case fluid(matic J or matic S ONLY) Coolant Replace Radiator Cap Serpentine Belt and inspect tensioner and idler pulleys and idler pulley bearings. I found my tensioner went around 100k miles. Idler pulley bearings are still good though at 120k. 7 speed auto(matic J or matic S ONLY and note this is "lifetime fill" and a bit of a pain to do at home) Power Steering(DEXRON VI) 80,000 miles/130,000 Km Replace Spark Plugs(Denso FXE24HR11 or NGK DILKAR7B11) Common Issues Priority Levels: High: will leave you stranded Medium: will eventually leave you stranded Low: will not leave you stranded Repair Difficulty Levels(note this is completely subjective): 0-1: You can do this job easily with basic hand tools and the car on the ground 2-3: This job may take a little bit longer and you most likely will need to lift the car. No specialized tools needed. 4-5: This job is a pain and I recommend a shop. Still accomplishable in your garage but may need better tools than you have and you'll want a lift Slave cylinder failure(manual transmission only) Priority Level: High Difficulty: 4(alot has to come off and the transmission is quite heavy) What? - The slave cylinder for the 6mt G37 and 370z is a concentric slave cylinder(CSC) meaning the release bearing and slave cylinder are the same part and located inside the bell housing. This part has a plastic housing that leaves it susceptible to failure leading to sudden loss of clutch pressure. When? - Failure tends to happen rather suddenly, usually somewhere at or past 80,000 miles/130,000 Km, but not unheard of as early as 40,000 miles/64,000 Km. How do I check? - If clutch fluid is being lost, the CSC is likely to blame. If clutch fluid is excessively dirty(it should be light, transparent yellow in color) expect problems sooner rather than later. If the reservoir is empty and there is no leak from the master cylinder(which would likely show up as clutch fluid on the driver side carpet), the CSC has likely failed. Preventative Maintenance - Regular clutch fluid changes. - RJM's clutch pedal claims to help. Upgrade Options - ZSpeed's CMAK is the best conversion kit on the market that moves the slave cylinder outside the transmission into a slave cylinder, fork and release bearing setup. Z1 makes a similar kit but it requires frequent adjustments and is overall inferior. - Pretty much every Nissan performance storefront sells an upgraded CSC including but probably not limited to Z1, Zspeed, and ConceptZPerformance. I have no experience with these and overall recommend the CMAK. Important Notes - If the slave cylinder fails it's likely to take your clutch disc with it. - If the slave cylinder is changed, the master cylinder should be changed as well. Differential(Diff) stud bushing failure Priority Level: Low Difficulty: 3(quite a bit has to come off, getting the bushing out is tough) What? - The differential bushing for the G37 and 370z is a partially fluid filled bushing. While this is exceptional for preventing NVH(Noise, Vibration, and Harshness), it has a tendency to pop and allow excess movement of the differential. When? - Incredibly early, as early as 20,000 miles/32,000 Km. Tends to blow out quicker on vehicles with the manual transmission How do I check? - Brownish-Black fluid leaking form the bushing, on the diff, on your exhaust. It's pretty messy. Alternatively, jack the car up by the diff and if the diff moves freely up and and back down, the bushing is blown Preventative maintenance - Not much you can do other than drive like a grandma. A differential brace could help, see notes. Upgrade options - The OEM does not sell an individual replacement, though you could buy the whole rear subframe with the bushing pressed in. This is not recommended. - Poly bushings from whiteline, z1, energy suspension, gktech, superpro, etc. - Solid bushings from SPL, z1, gktech, etc. - It's possible to refill the bushing with silicone. While this maybe isn't the best route to go, it's been proven to work just fine by motorvate(video) and is probably the best option if you're looking to be as close as possible to OEM NVH. Important Notes - A diff brace will keep the diff still but shouldn't be fully relied on. They may help prevent bushing failure too. Multiple options from z1, Bell, or gktech. Heater hose connector/splice/coupler failure Priority Level: High Difficulty: 2(requires tools, small space) What? - A plastic hose splice is used to connect to the heater core on the G37 and 370z, it is located close to the firewall on the passenger side. With age, this plastic coupler can fall apart and leak significant amounts of coolant. When? - Sometime around or after 100,000 miles/161,000 Km is most likely. Most G37s sold today should probably have this replaced right away. How do I check? - Check for low coolant level in reservoir, look for crusty coolant at the coupler(Green or blue). Look at this coupler first if you've lost most of your coolant or you're smelling coolant(sickly sweet smell) Preventative Maintenance - replace with upgrade. Upgrade Options - Any 3/4" ID(inner diameter) hose splice/coupler should work just fine. I recommend switching to a metal one like this or if you want to pay out the nose the Z1 option. - OEM plastic part(not recommended) Important Notes - If you're replacing this, you should do the hoses too. This hose and this hose. Z1 does offer nice silicone hoses for this application. Rear Timing Cover Oil Gallery Gasket Failure(Pre 2012 models) Priority Level: Medium Difficulty: 5(you'll need drain the A/C, getting the crank pulley off may require an air tool, may have to reset timing) What? - Behind the timing chains on the 370z and G37 there are two oil galleries that have gaskets poorly torqued from the factory. This causes the gaskets to blow out and instead of oil going where it should it will seep back into the oil pan. When? - It's been a really mixed bag. Mine blew sometime before 80,000 miles/130,000 Km. Most of what I've read is the problem will reach high priority by about 125,000 miles/200,000 Km. How do I check? - Check oil pressure: At warm idle, oil pressure should be greater than 14 PSI; At warm 2000 RPMs, oil pressure should be greater than 43 PSI. Engine Codes # P0011/P0021 usually point to gallery gasket failure. Finally, gasket material in the oil pan is a certain failure. Preventative Maintenance - It probably helps to keep revs down when oil is cold as pressure is highest when oil is cold, but really there's not a ton you can do. Upgrade options - Replace with OEM(Check this myG37 thread for more info) - EPS has a kit that I've heard has the best fasteners of the bunch. z1 has a kit but I've heard mixed things about the fasteners. ConceptZPerformance has a kit that looks about the same as z1s - Important Notes - This job needs a bunch of seals to do right. z1 and conceptzperformance have kits that bundle the OEM seals. - Replace water pump and inspect timing chains/tensioners are part of this job as well. Sunroof Drain Leak Priority Level: LowVery High Difficulty: 0(no tools required)2-3(depends on action taken) What? - Sometimes the sunroof drains on the G37 will get clogged, or the plug leading out of the car will leak from it's gasket. This will cause damp floor mats/carpet or pillars/headliner and can seriously damage electrical components such as the fuses box and the BCM When? - No specific mileage, heavily dependent on when you drive and where you park. How do I check? - On either side of the vehicle, if you pull the vents out you can see the hoses and plugs that lead out of the car, check for dampness. Additionally, if clogged, it's possible the leak comes directly from the sunroof because the hose pops off. If anything smells or looks wet take action immediately Preventative Maintenance - Park in garage, blow out sunroof drains, check occasionally for dampness. Upgrade Options - Add clamps to upper sunroof hoses(they are not clamped to sunroof barbs from the factory). - Replace [firewall] plugs](https://parts.infinitiusa.com/p/INFINITI__/Plug-Side~-Trim/89790203/74816-JU40B.html) if the gaskets are worn and leaking. Important Notes - If left unattended this issue could cause serious water damage to the floor plan as well as, more importantly, soaking the BCM or driver side fuse box.; Per u/p3dal; I don't agree on this one. The priority is pretty high, as left unattended it can result in mold, or damage to the engine computer (passenger side) or fuse box (driver's side) , which the sunroof drain frequently drips on when it is clogged or leaking. The damp floor mats are the right symptom, but they're not what you should be concerned about. By the time your floor mats are damp, you might have 2" of water in a channel/compartment under the passenger side floor carpet. Also, there are two popular solutions to fixing it, which are not the same as above. The firewall drain plug is defective by design, and replacing it will often result in the same issue showing up again a few years later. Replacing the sunroof drain firewall plug is extremely difficult and often requires removing either the dash or the windshield. I've heard dealerships charge $800-$1200 to replace this $4 part. Though some people can pull it out with 16" plyers, plenty more cannot reach it at all. These alternative fixes are much better solutions: This solution involves extending the drain to drip on the other side of the firewall. I've not tried this solution, but some people seem to like it: https://www.reddit.com/r/G37/comments/teej1l/fixed_my_damn_sunroof_leak_finally/ In my opinion, the sunroof drain bypass is the better fix, and removes the firewall, grommet, and plug from the equation entirely. https://www.myg37.com/forums/body-interior-exterior-lighting/280987-passenger-side-dashboard-leak-4.html However, I've only done this on the passenger side, and I'm concerned the driver's side drain might not be as simple. Option 1 might be better for the driver's side. Reminder, I will always make my best effort to ensure the accuracy of this post so please comment about anything you disagree with or have better suggestions for Dirty throttle bodies Priority Level: Low Difficulty: 1(requires tools) What? - This is more of a tune-up item but G37s and 370zs seem particularly sensitive to dirty throttle bodies. This often presents by allowing the car to start then immediately shutting off. When? - The general consensus around the forums seems to be at around 30,000 miles/50,000 Km How do I check? - If you're having idle issues or the engine shuts off right after starting when warm, it may be the throttle bodies Preventative Maintenance - Clean the throttle bodies of carbon every once and a while and perform an idle relearn. Upgrade Options - catch cans with filter media should help but legality varies by location Electric Steering Lock(applies primarily to 2009/2010 models) Priority Level: Medium Difficulty: 2(may need tools you don't have) What? - The electric steering wheel locks on G37s and 370zs can lock up and not let go, making the car unable to start. Specific TSB here under NHTSA Reference #10051829 When? - No specific mileage How do I check? - Your car randomly will not start but otherwise was just fine before Preventative Maintenance - See upgrade options Upgrade Options - Replace with OEM part - Replace with Dorman 601-037 , which is supposed to fix this entirely. - Pull fuse to ESCL - Bypass wire to ESCL Important Notes - If your car is actively having this issue, you probably can get it to start by wailing on the bottom of the part with a mallet and getting the car started. Immediately bypass when car is started. Other issues worth mentioning The rear end links break relatively quickly if you're dropped or run stiffer sway bars, or both. Adjustable end links are available from whiteline and SPL. HOWEVER, online discussions appear to point to white lines being lower quality than OE and susceptible to failure. With what we know now, I would truly only recommend SPL or OEM. The rack and pinions tend to seep a bit earlier than other cars in my experience. Also worth noting, the rack preload bolt WILL usually be a bit leaky. This is normal. Seeping does NOT mean replace, refer to the TSB on the rack and pinions if you are not sure. Stay on top of fluid. Replace ONLY with OEM/Hitachi or reputable rebuild (such as having yours rebuilt). Most remans are junk. The wire bundle going between the trunk and trunk lid gets fatigued after a while and wires will eventually fray and break. Multiple nissans have issues with the fuel tank senders. It isn't a big deal but your fuel level on the dash won't be accurate. Can also give you check engine lights for fuel level issues. Unfortunately, our cars have a level sender in both the driver side and fuel pump on the passenger side. You can test the resistance with a multimeter and sweeping the fuel arm but it's pretty moot and may be hard to see. Cleaning the contacts of the wiper can fix it and is worth a shot if you can't afford parts. submitted by /u/SubParPercussionist to r/G37 [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/ChadRickTheSane to r/harborfreight [link] [comments]

2000 BMW Z3 2.8 with a 5-speed - pictures So I sold my last sports car 15 years ago when I had two kids and started a job that required me to drive a truck to work. I had given up on owning another sports car despite watching an hour/day of car-related youtube content. I realized that when it comes down to it, I just want a fun weekend car where I can put the top down and enjoy driving and the BMW Z3 might work for that. This one is a 2000, 2.8 with a 5-speed and 105K miles. Mechanically everything seems to work great, but there are a bunch of cosmetic things I’d like to take care of. So far I’ve detailed it and added bushings to keep the seats from moving around. I’ve ordered all of the parts to replace the coolant system. I’ve ordered a ZHP style shift knob, steering wheel cover, floor mats, clutch stop, SRS reset tool, door handle gaskets, touchup paint kit and antenna grommet. It needs a new top, front bumper re-spray, door ding taken care of, seat leather repairs and a car cover after that. Thanks for reading. If you have any suggestions, just let me know. submitted by /u/haole1 to r/cars [link] [comments]

Multiple size capability (1/4" and 1/2") would be great, if that's a thing. A common complaint I'm reading about in reviews is that the punch that comes with the kits is usually not very sharp. I'm willing to make my own "kit" if you guys have individual pieces that you like that you acquired piecemeal. submitted by /u/heychooney to r/myog [link] [comments]