L Shaped Desk Ikea

Hi all! I am moving soon and my job gave me some money for new office equipment! I am looking for an L-Shaped desk with a dark wood look. My current set up is a super long desk tabletop from IKEA with my work laptop and a cheap monitor on the left, and my dual monitor set up for my personal PC on the right hand side. Would love any recommendations under $500, right now I am looking at Feszibo and FlexiSpot. I like the sturdiness of FlexiSpot but I don't like the material offered for the E7L. On the other hand, I like the table top design and color (dark walnut) for the Fezibo basic L shape desk but it's only available in the 1 motor configration and not the 3 motor. My main concern is that I need 3 motors for my current set up but I am pretty sure my set up is not super heavy. submitted by /u/Azrael-Azzy to r/StandingDesk [link] [comments]

Move-out sale – furniture available (Manikonda) Hey guys, I’m moving out and looking to sell a few things I’ve been using. It is in really good condition and has been used carefully. L-shape desk Price - ₹6500 Spacious and sturdy. Good for a proper work setup (I used it for dual screen). Additional i am also willing to sell Ikea lamp (with light- can be connected to Alexa and wiz- and you can change colors) Ikea table clock 2000 (this is non negotiable) All items are well maintained and slightly negotiable. 📍 Location: Manikonda DM if you’re interested or want more pics/details 🙂 submitted by /u/Patient-Bison4239 to r/HyderabadBuySell [link] [comments]

Hello :) I’m planning to do a DIY desk with IKEA Alex drawer I have a ~295x220 space So I have 2 options for the countertops: 295 and 160 235 and 220 What’s better in terms of stability, sagging or is there no difference ? There’s images for reference and are those 3 adils ikea legs enough for support ? I’m also planing to add an anti-sag bar on the longer part of the desk Thanks for your help submitted by /u/ReferenceFabulous139 to r/ikeaPCstations [link] [comments]

TLDR: Need my work checked. And probably some advice/correcting I think you might be able to get it all from the pictures but I tried to go into as much detail on my plan as possible. L shaped desk with monitor riser. Context: I originally had plans to make a simple floating desk with some plywood and wall brackets. I won’t go into all of it but just trust once I got into it, some of the stuff going on behind the wall in the apartment and what’s required stuff to mount the desk, it just isn’t a viable option now. I still want to do an L desk that’s pretty simple, but I hadn’t expected to construct an actual desk. I have experience with a little DIY and handyman adjacent stuff around the house but this would be the biggest thing I’ve tackled. I designed two options that I think are doable and aren’t super high level. But that’s why I wanted to post, in case I’m completely off base. I would love some eyeballs to confirm this is all sound and won’t just immediately fall apart. I also have some questions and would love any advice, corrections/tweaks, suggestions and/or to know if there is anything I haven’t thought of. (I have tried to do my research online, but it’s either DIY type stuff where you just copy the template or info isn’t specific enough. Since I’m making it up in my head, I don’t know how to calculate exactly what I need for it to be sturdy and supported properly) The trickiest - I’m assuming - part is that I am building a monitor lift into the “main”/ larger portion of the desk. I am not sure how that affects the stability and integrity of the other parts of the desk and what I might need to do, if anything to compensate. Attached are pictures of the sketches I did, all labeled in as much detail as I could. For clarity, I labeled the left side A, the corner B, and the end of the turn C. Also, the blue arrows are questions/calculations I need to figure out, any answers would be appreciated. (I also included a quick “vision board” as it were to maybe demonstrate what I’m discussing below and on the drawings) The “main” side of the desk will be 63” long (the length of the wall ) and the left side (A) will be supported by a drawer unit I already have (Ikea Alex, bc I’m a basic bitch. Lol). I will have to build legs of some kind for the corner end (B) as well as the turn (C). I have sketched up two versions. The second (fig 2) has a “waterfall” edge, but not really, I just don’t know how to express it otherwise. I’m just going to butt joint it. It’s just to make it look nice, but the drawer unit is still doing the heavy lifting, as it were. My hope is to still do just a plywood top and keep it simple. I went on Sagulator and calculated the span from the right edge of the drawer unit to where the corner leg will be (about 50”) using a couple different thicknesses between 3/4” and 1 1/4”). I wasn’t sure about the load, so I kept it at 30 per foot. (If I need to calculate it some way please let me know how to do that). Supposedly its all in an acceptable range. I didn’t plan on making an apron (I think that’s what the little frame is called) but do I need to? If so, what’s the best way? I came up with some ideas (Fig 3) Thanks for both reading this wall of text as well as any advice. submitted by /u/carriealamode to r/BeginnerWoodWorking [link] [comments]

I’m having a hard time finding pictures or setups with someone using the Alex desk hack with the option for standing. I’m looking to surprise my fiancée with redoing her office next week, but I’d like to have a reference to build from. Has anyone used the Alex drawers to make an L shaped desk that also had the standing desk built in? If so, how did you handle cabinet placement and what supports did you use? submitted by /u/BookSmoker to r/ikeaPCstations [link] [comments]

TL;DR for the scrollers A month ago I posted here asking if sawing my TONSTAD was the only way to fit a monitor arm on a 10.5cm thick edge. Turns out — no sawing needed. I bolted the monitor arm plates to the back side of the desk frame (shoutout to u/HuckleberryAny1063 for that idea). Combined with a strap-based under-desk PC mount and a laptop arm, the 120×47cm (47×18.5") TONSTAD now feels way more spacious than it has any right to. Everything that used to live on the desk now floats above it or hangs below it. Scroll down for the full breakdown of every choice, what worked, what didn't, and what I'd do differently. Why this build exists This desk serves double duty: home PC + work laptop in a hybrid work setup. The TONSTAD at 120×47cm is not a big desk — it's basically a console table that I'm asking to be a full workstation. So every decision here was about maximizing usable surface area on a table that has almost none. My original plan was to have the home monitor centered, then swing it out of the way when I needed to pivot the laptop into the center for work mode. I tested this with the Deltaco arms in a very jerry-rigged setup and quickly realized: nope. Moving gas-spring arms back and forth multiple times a day is a hassle, not a workflow. The friction of resetting everything would absolutely ruin a Monday morning, especially when a colleague pings you for an unplanned call and your screen is mid-swing somewhere. So I dropped the "pivot" concept and went with a more classic layout — monitor on the left as primary, laptop on the right as a secondary screen. No switching, no frustration. It's less clever, but it actually works every day, and that matters more. The monitor arm problem (and solution) If you have a TONSTAD, you already know: the desk edge is 10.5cm thick. Most monitor arm clamps max out at ~8.5cm. I covered this in my previous post — go check the comments there for all the options people suggested (StarTech wide-clamp arms, freestanding mounts, grommet mounts, wall mounts, horizontal notch cuts, etc.). What I ended up doing was inspired by u/HuckleberryAny1063's suggestion: remove the L-bracket clamp part from the monitor arm and bolt the mounting plate directly into the back rail of the desk frame. How the side-bolt mount works on a TONSTAD The TONSTAD's back isn't flush — there's a lip where the tabletop overhangs the frame. So you can't just screw the plate flat against the back. Here's what I had to deal with: The spacer problem: There's roughly a 1cm gap between the frame's back surface and the underside of the tabletop overhang. The arm plate needs something to bridge that gap. I ended up sawing off pieces of baseboard trim to use as spacers between the plate and the frame. Not elegant, but it works. The plate shift problem: Fair warning — my craftsmanship was not top-notch here. While drilling and screwing the plates in from the side, they shifted upward slightly, so there's now a small gap between the top surface of the desk and the top of the arm plate. It's not visible from normal viewing angles, but it's there, and it bugs me a little. If you attempt this, I'd recommend clamping the plate in position first before drilling, or having someone hold it steady. Placement choice: I deliberately did not center the arm mounts on the back of the desk. The entrance to my room is on the right side, so that's the angle people (and I) see the desk from most often. I shifted both arm attachment points toward the left so the right side of the desk looks clean and uncluttered from the doorway. Small detail, but it makes the setup look more intentional. The result: two drill holes per arm in a spot that's completely invisible from the top and front. If I ever resell this desk, you'd barely know anything was attached. Arms used: 2× Deltaco ARM-0350 Good arms. Solid build, smooth gas spring. I'd recommend them. Just know they're not designed for side-bolting — you're repurposing the clamp hardware, so some improvisation is required. The laptop arm situation I'm using a LogiLink BP0203 Laptop Arm Mount to hold my 15-inch HP work laptop. Genuinely surprised by the quality of this thing for the price. The thinking here: on a 47cm deep desk, a regular laptop stand would eat up surface area that doesn't exist. A laptop arm keeps the laptop floating above the desk and frees up the surface below. For a table this small, getting things off the surface is the whole strategy. Honest note on the limitations This combo isn't perfect. The Deltaco arm's vertical tilt maxes out at 45 degrees, and with a 15-inch laptop on the LogiLink mount, the laptop physically bumps into the arm at certain angles. I can't position the laptop as low or as close as I'd ideally want. If you have a smaller 13-inch laptop, you'd probably have more flexibility here. That said — the unintended upside is that the laptop screen sits higher than it would on a traditional stand. I don't have to tilt my head down to see it, which is actually better for posture. Happy accident. Under-desk PC mount I have a Cooler Master NR200 mini-ITX case. Love this case, but it was sitting on the floor before, collecting dust. And with a 120×47cm desk surface, putting it on the desk was never an option. I looked at a lot of under-desk PC mounts. The metal/rigid ones were either ugly, poor quality, or didn't fit the minimal clearance under this desk (the space between the drawer section and the side panel is very tight). I ended up going with the BONTEC Adjustable PC Holder, which uses straps instead of a rigid cradle. Why straps actually work here The strap-based mount lets me hang the NR200 without it being fully pushed up against the underside of the desk. Since the gap between the drawer and the side panel is too narrow for the case to sit flush, the straps let the PC hang at a slightly lower position — which is actually perfect because the NR200 has ports on top, and I need access to them. The NR200's little rubber feet act as natural stoppers that prevent the straps from slipping over the case. It's secure for normal use. Honest caveat: This is not baby-proof. A curious toddler could probably pull it loose. Given that this room will eventually become a baby room, I'll need to DIY some kind of reinforcement down the line. Desk mat: Orbitkey Desk Mat Slim — Stone After the monitor stand was gone and the surface was finally open, I needed a desk mat that would work with the dark wood of the TONSTAD. The previous setup had a lighter mat that didn't create enough contrast. The shopping process for this was... something. My wife vetoed every design with art, Japanese characters, gradients, or abstract patterns — anything that "attracts too much attention." So the brief became: understated, clean, and living-room-appropriate (since this desk will eventually move there). The Orbitkey Slim in Stone (off-white) hits that mark. It's on the pricier side for a desk mat, but the vegan leather feels genuinely premium, and the off-white creates a really nice contrast against the dark TONSTAD wood. My hope is that the vegan leather surface will be easy to wipe down, because I have a feeling a light-colored mat is going to show every coffee ring and crumb. Size-wise, the Slim version is ideal for this desk. With monitor arms freeing up the surface, there's just enough room. A full-size desk mat wouldn't fit here. Cable management Nothing fancy, but it makes a difference: Extension cord glued to the underside of the desk on the right side using heavy-duty double-sided tape Generic Amazon adhesive cable clips along the underside to route everything neatly Can't see any cables from the front or sides. The under-desk area went from a spaghetti situation to basically invisible. What's next Mouse upgrade: Waiting on an ATK Z1 v2 to replace my Logitech Lift. The Lift has given me pinky pain, and I've now owned two units where the clicks just don't register consistently. Can't recommend it. The Z1 v2 is supposedly inspired by the Zowie EC1 ergonomic shape, which should be a better fit. Monitor lamp: Looking into options. Open to suggestions. Desk shelf / monitor riser: Something to add a little layering and a place for small items. Also open to suggestions. The clock problem: My wife gave me a cool clock that used to sit on the desk. It currently has no home. Need to figure that out. Full gear list ItemNotesDeskIKEA TONSTAD 120×47cm (47×18.5")MonitorLG 27UL500-W (27" 4K — solid budget used monitor)LaptopHP work laptop (15")PCCooler Master NR200 mini-ITXKeyboardLogitech MX Keys Mini (it's alright, nothing special)MouseLogitech Lift → soon ATK Z1 v2 (don't recommend the Lift — click registration issues on 2 units)Desk MatOrbitkey Desk Mat Slim — Stone (premium feel, great contrast, pricey but vibes)Monitor Arms2× Deltaco ARM-0350 (side-bolted, recommended)PC MountBONTEC Adjustable PC Holder — strap style (cheap, simple, works)Laptop ArmLogiLink BP0203 (surprisingly good quality for the price) Previous post for context: Is sawing my new table the only way to fit a monitor arm? This room will eventually become a baby room, so this whole setup needs to be wife-approved and eventually relocatable to the living room. Every choice was made with that in mind. TL;DR for the scrollers A month ago I posted here asking if sawing my TONSTAD was the only way to fit a monitor arm on a 10.5cm thick edge. Turns out — no sawing needed. I bolted the monitor arm plates to the back side of the desk frame (shoutout to u/HuckleberryAny1063 for that idea). Combined with a strap-based under-desk PC mount and a laptop arm, the 120×47cm (47×18.5") TONSTAD now feels way more spacious than it has any right to. Everything that used to live on the desk now floats above it or hangs below it. Scroll down for the full breakdown of every choice, what worked, what didn't, and what I'd do differently. Why this build exists This desk serves double duty: home PC + work laptop in a hybrid work setup. The TONSTAD at 120×47cm is not a big desk — it's basically a console table that I'm asking to be a full workstation. So every decision here was about maximizing usable surface area on a table that has almost none. My original plan was to have the home monitor centered, then swing it out of the way when I needed to pivot the laptop into the center for work mode. I tested this with the Deltaco arms in a very jerry-rigged setup and quickly realized: nope. Moving gas-spring arms back and forth multiple times a day is a hassle, not a workflow. The friction of resetting everything would absolutely ruin a Monday morning, especially when a colleague pings you for an unplanned call and your screen is mid-swing somewhere. So I dropped the "pivot" concept and went with a more classic layout — monitor on the left as primary, laptop on the right as a secondary screen. No switching, no frustration. It's less clever, but it actually works every day, and that matters more. The monitor arm problem (and solution) If you have a TONSTAD, you already know: the desk edge is 10.5cm thick. Most monitor arm clamps max out at ~8.5cm. I covered this in my previous post — go check the comments there for all the options people suggested (StarTech wide-clamp arms, freestanding mounts, grommet mounts, wall mounts, horizontal notch cuts, etc.). What I ended up doing was inspired by u/HuckleberryAny1063's suggestion: remove the L-bracket clamp part from the monitor arm and bolt the mounting plate directly into the back rail of the desk frame. How the side-bolt mount works on a TONSTAD The TONSTAD's back isn't flush — there's a lip where the tabletop overhangs the frame. So you can't just screw the plate flat against the back. Here's what I had to deal with: The spacer problem: There's roughly a 1cm gap between the frame's back surface and the underside of the tabletop overhang. The arm plate needs something to bridge that gap. I ended up sawing off pieces of baseboard trim to use as spacers between the plate and the frame. Not elegant, but it works. The plate shift problem: Fair warning — my craftsmanship was not top-notch here. While drilling and screwing the plates in from the side, they shifted upward slightly, so there's now a small gap between the top surface of the desk and the top of the arm plate. It's not visible from normal viewing angles, but it's there, and it bugs me a little. If you attempt this, I'd recommend clamping the plate in position first before drilling, or having someone hold it steady. Placement choice: I deliberately did not center the arm mounts on the back of the desk. The entrance to my room is on the right side, so that's the angle people (and I) see the desk from most often. I shifted both arm attachment points toward the left so the right side of the desk looks clean and uncluttered from the doorway. Small detail, but it makes the setup look more intentional. The result: two drill holes per arm in a spot that's completely invisible from the top and front. If I ever resell this desk, you'd barely know anything was attached. Arms used: 2× Deltaco ARM-0350 Good arms. Solid build, smooth gas spring. I'd recommend them. Just know they're not designed for side-bolting — you're repurposing the clamp hardware, so some improvisation is required. The laptop arm situation I'm using a LogiLink BP0203 Laptop Arm Mount to hold my 15-inch HP work laptop. Genuinely surprised by the quality of this thing for the price. The thinking here: on a 47cm deep desk, a regular laptop stand would eat up surface area that doesn't exist. A laptop arm keeps the laptop floating above the desk and frees up the surface below. For a table this small, getting things off the surface is the whole strategy. Honest note on the limitations This combo isn't perfect. The Deltaco arm's vertical tilt maxes out at 45 degrees, and with a 15-inch laptop on the LogiLink mount, the laptop physically bumps into the arm at certain angles. I can't position the laptop as low or as close as I'd ideally want. If you have a smaller 13-inch laptop, you'd probably have more flexibility here. That said — the unintended upside is that the laptop screen sits higher than it would on a traditional stand. I don't have to tilt my head down to see it, which is actually better for posture. Happy accident. Under-desk PC mount I have a Cooler Master NR200 mini-ITX case. Love this case, but it was sitting on the floor before, collecting dust. And with a 120×47cm desk surface, putting it on the desk was never an option. I looked at a lot of under-desk PC mounts. The metal/rigid ones were either ugly, poor quality, or didn't fit the minimal clearance under this desk (the space between the drawer section and the side panel is very tight). I ended up going with the BONTEC Adjustable PC Holder, which uses straps instead of a rigid cradle. Why straps actually work here The strap-based mount lets me hang the NR200 without it being fully pushed up against the underside of the desk. Since the gap between the drawer and the side panel is too narrow for the case to sit flush, the straps let the PC hang at a slightly lower position — which is actually perfect because the NR200 has ports on top, and I need access to them. The NR200's little rubber feet act as natural stoppers that prevent the straps from slipping over the case. It's secure for normal use. Honest caveat: This is not baby-proof. A curious toddler could probably pull it loose. Given that this room will eventually become a baby room, I'll need to DIY some kind of reinforcement down the line. Desk mat: Orbitkey Desk Mat Slim — Stone After the monitor stand was gone and the surface was finally open, I needed a desk mat that would work with the dark wood of the TONSTAD. The previous setup had a lighter color table so the black desk mat worked nice on it. Not on the new TONSTAD. The shopping process for this was... something. My wife vetoed every design with art, Japanese characters, gradients, or abstract patterns — anything that "attracts too much attention." So the brief became: understated, clean, and living-room-appropriate (since this desk will eventually move there). The Orbitkey Slim in Stone (off-white) hits that mark. It's on the pricier side for a desk mat, but the vegan leather feels genuinely premium, and the off-white creates a really nice contrast against the dark TONSTAD wood. My hope is that the vegan leather surface will be easy to wipe down, because I have a feeling a light-colored mat is going to show every coffee ring and crumb. Size-wise, the Slim version is ideal for this desk. With monitor arms freeing up the surface, there's just enough room. A full-size desk mat wouldn't fit here. Cable management Nothing fancy, but it makes a difference: Extension cord glued to the underside of the desk on the right side using heavy-duty double-sided tape Generic Amazon adhesive cable clips along the underside to route everything neatly Can't see any cables from the front or sides. The under-desk area went from a spaghetti situation to basically invisible. What's next Mouse upgrade: Waiting on an ATK Z1 v2 to replace my Logitech Lift. The Lift has given me pinky pain, and I've now owned two units where the clicks just don't register consistently. Can't recommend it. The Z1 v2 is supposedly inspired by the Zowie EC1 ergonomic shape, which should be a better fit. Monitor lamp: Looking into options. Open to suggestions. Desk shelf / monitor riser: Something to add a little layering and a place for small items. Also open to suggestions. The clock problem: My wife gave me a cool clock that used to sit on the desk. It currently has no home. Need to figure that out. Full gear list Item Notes Desk IKEA TONSTAD 120×47cm (47×18.5") Monitor LG 27UL500-W (27" 4K — solid budget used monitor) Laptop HP work laptop (15") PC Cooler Master NR200 mini-ITX Keyboard Logitech MX Keys Mini (it's alright, nothing special) Mouse Logitech Lift → soon ATK Z1 v2 (don't recommend the Lift — click registration issues on 2 units) Desk Mat Orbitkey Desk Mat Slim — Stone (premium feel, great contrast, pricey but vibes) Monitor Arms 2× Deltaco ARM-0350 (side-bolted, recommended) PC Mount BONTEC Adjustable PC Holder — strap style (cheap, simple, works) Laptop Arm LogiLink BP0203 (surprisingly good quality for the price) Check my previous post for context. This room will eventually become a baby room, so this whole setup needs to be wife-approved and eventually relocatable to the living room. Every choice was made with that in mind. submitted by /u/Individual_Reality_6 to r/desksetup [link] [comments]