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How Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Is Changing the Diamond Game
Last fall, the jewelry designer Kindred Lubeck took an elevator up six floors to a high-end showroom in New York's diamond district. She was buzzed inside a fluorescent-lit vestibule, then waited; the front door had to lock securely behind her before a second could open. On the other side, a man in a gray suit named Chirag Mehta greeted her. Mehta is the president of Sim Gems USA, a diamond dealer that sources investment-worthy stones for discerning billionaires; his customers include Nita Ambani, the wife of the richest man in Asia. Mehta had only recently learned of Lubeck's work. In August, she was revealed as the designer of Taylor Swift's engagement ring, an old-mine brilliant cut set in a yellow-gold band that Lubeck engraved by hand. (Good luck zooming in on the photos.) By October, Lubeck had been tapped by Sotheby's for a closed-bid online auction of three engraved rings; in December, she auctioned two more, including one five-carat, old-mine-cut stone with an obvious resemblance to Swift's. Lubeck, who has aquamarine eyes and long, wavy hair, cuts an ethereal figure, like an elven noble. Her father is a goldsmith, and she spent much of the pandemic in her home town, a coastal community in Florida called Neptune Beach, shadowing him at his shop. She became obsessed with metalsmithing, and started pursuing it full time, honing an antique-inspired aesthetic that quickly gained traction on social media. By the time she moved to New York, in 2024, she had started her own business, Artifex Fine, and she had a loyal following in the indie jewelry world. Swift showed one of Lubeck's Instagram videos to her fiancé, Travis Kelce, a year and a half before their engagement. "When I saw the ring, I was, like, 'I know who made that, I know who made that!'" Swift said in a radio interview. For Lubeck, it was an enormous break; now she has the trust of dealers such as Mehta, who are often willing to loan stones to designers for speculative projects. On Lubeck's visit, Mehta opened a safe the size of a refrigerator and plucked out a fifty-carat-plus natural diamond, "Bezos-level," he said, and set it on a gray fabric tray for her to examine. All Mehta asked was that Lubeck take a photo with him for social media. In the past, enormous gems were typically used in cocktail rings, for special occasions. Engagement rings were meant for everyday wear. But many of today's celebrities prefer to blur the distinction: Lauren Sánchez Bezos's diamond was rumored to weigh in at around thirty carats; the stone that Cristiano Ronaldo gave to his girlfriend, Georgina Rodríguez, whom he met at a Gucci store in 2017, has been estimated to be thirty-five carats. Swift's stone is large, industry experts have estimated anywhere from seven to ten carats, or about the size of a rounded-oval press-on nail. Yet its style diverges significantly from the icy, minimalist chic that has shaped engagement-ring tastes in recent years. (In 2018, Hailey Bieber's ring, an oval-cut diamond on a thin, solitaire band, set the standard.) Swift's diamond is an old-mine cut, a faceting pattern that typically indicates that a gem was cut in a period between the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, when the world's major diamond mines were still in Brazil and India. Lubeck couldn't share the stone's provenance. On social media, the rare-gem dealer Anup Jogani, who supplied Lubeck with the stones for her recent Sotheby's auctions, called it the "ring of the century." In the antique-jewelry scene, the reveal was the equivalent of a Super Bowl victory. "I think I cried," Marion Fasel, the author of "The History of Diamond Engagement Rings," told me. "My vintage-jewelry world was so excited, they lost their minds." Historically, old-mine-cut diamonds have been a niche obsession. Compared with the ubiquitous round-brilliant cut of today (think: diamond emoji), old-miners tend to have large, chunky facets and taller profiles, with thick crowns and long pavilions. Fasel was able to classify Swift's ring as an old-miner because of the small, dark circle, or "open culet," visible at the center, unlike many popular diamond shapes today, which taper to a point, old-miners have flatter bottoms. At the time these stones were fashioned, light was often provided by candlelight or gas lamps and lapidaries, or gem cutters, did everything by hand, meaning that their work was not always perfectly symmetrical. Compared with modern cuts, which are often described as "sharp," "intense," and "quick" for the way that they refract white, or "brilliant" light, old-miners manifest a different kind of romantic fantasy, with a warm glow that calls to mind the sepia of an old Hollywood movie. "I just watch it like it's a TV," Swift said, of her ring. At the Sim Gems USA showroom, Mehta gestured at a table that had been laid out with dozens of shimmering, round, brilliant-cut diamonds worth millions of dollars. "These are regular," he said, shrugging. "People know what this is. But after what happened," he glanced at Lubeck, "people are looking for something different." The natural-diamond industry, which, with the advent of lab-grown gems, has been experiencing a prolonged and costly identity crisis, was thrilled by the ring, too. "What a diamond!" Al Cook, the beleaguered C.E.O. of De Beers Group, wrote in a LinkedIn post, which restrained itself to only one awkwardly interjected Swift lyric. ("Bejeweled!") Cook became C.E.O. in 2023, not long before the business's majority shareholder announced its intention to divest from the company. Later that year, De Beers cut prices across the board by more than ten per cent, a historically large reduction, according to Bloomberg. "Taylor's ring might be extraordinary in its size and rarity," Cook wrote. "But it is a reminder that every natural diamond is a unique and ancient treasure from the Earth." De Beers was formed in the late nineteenth century, when its reviled founder, Cecil Rhodes, consolidated the operations of a network of mines in South Africa, securing near-total control of the market there. Since then, the history of diamonds has essentially been a history of De Beers's marketing campaigns. The company spent the better part of the twentieth century convincing Americans that the most valuable diamonds were heavy, brilliant, colorless, and free from internal flaws or external blemishes. But achieving this sort of purity is precisely what lab-grown diamonds do best. In 2016, according to one industry analyst, a high-quality one-and-a-half-carat lab-grown diamond could sell for about ten thousand dollars, seventeen per cent less than the cost of a similar-quality natural diamond. Today, amid a glut of competition from labs in China and India, the price difference can be as high as ninety per cent. At Walmart, which started selling diamonds in 2022, a one-carat, lab-grown, round-cut solitaire engagement ring might retail for a hundred and fifty dollars. The natural-diamond industry seems to be betting that this price collapse will deter customers who want their rings to cost a meaningful amount of money. (There is still a prevailing belief that a diamond ring ought to cost a man two months of his salary, an idea that came from an old De Beers ad campaign which has taken on a life of its own since.) But Americans love a good deal. A recent survey by the wedding-planning website the Knot found that more than half the engagement rings purchased in the U.S. featured lab-grown diamonds, a forty-per-cent increase from 2019. Last year, when the Natural Diamond Council put up fly posters in midtown Manhattan that featured blown-up photos of identical-looking diamonds labelled natural, "the OG," and lab-grown, "the dupe," it seemed only to underscore that we live in a society in which even wealthy women are buying Wirkins. Swift's engagement ring might have set Kelce back something like a million dollars. But at Vrai, a lab-grown brand favored by Swift, fans can buy their own elongated, cushion-cut diamond for a thousand dollars or so. "In the past, most people bought small, low-quality diamonds to fit in their budget, so there was an imbalance between what you desired and your reality," Jean Dousset, a great-great-grandson of Louis Cartier, told me. After working in the high-jewelry business for decades at well-established houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, he started his own brand in Los Angeles. Diamonds are typically graded based on four criteria: cut, clarity, color, and carat weight; shopping for one can become an exercise in deciding how much imperfection a couple is willing to tolerate in a symbol of their love. Dousset told me that he grew tired of selling couples natural diamonds with yellow coloring and internal flaws that cost tens of thousands of dollars. He didn't feel that the price was worth it, and he saw the stress and tension it caused people. He pivoted entirely to lab-grown diamonds in 2023. ("I haven't heard from my peers since," he said.) Now it's much easier for him to sell people what they want. The industry has "found the cure to enjoying buying diamonds," Dousset said. For some couples, synthetic diamonds have an ethical appeal. In the nineties, ghastly revelations about the mining conditions in countries such as Sierra Leone, shed harsh light on the back end of the business. Leonardo DiCaprio, the star of "Blood Diamond," a blockbuster of dubious quality that nonetheless raised awareness about the issue, told Time that he would "certainly not" let his date wear diamonds to the Oscars, and later invested in Diamond Foundry, the most prominent American producer of lab-grown diamonds. Things have gotten better. In 2003, the United Nations implemented the Kimberley Process, a certification system to deter illegal trade; the program has eighty-six participating countries, and it is widely considered to be a successful intervention. But the taint lingers: bad actors still exist; mined diamonds figure in global money-laundering operations; and whatever its current partnerships De Beers was, after all, a company built on colonial exploitation. The sister of one of my friends, a sustainability adviser, told me last year that she gave her now fiancé explicit instructions that she did not want a "blood diamond." Still, lab-grown diamonds have yet to fully overcome their name. Christine Cheng, a fine-jewelry specialist, put it this way: Would you rather have a diamond formed naturally in the earth, "over millions of years," or one "cooked in a microwave, basically?" She told me that antique diamonds offer a "secret third" option for buyers. "They were mined long ago, so we're not using new resources," she said. "When everyone has access now to a huge diamond that used to be the dream, how do you differentiate? How do you signal your taste? How do you signal your knowledge? It's through connoisseurship of certain cuts, of certain designs from previous eras, and/or personalization. The status comes from a story." Very little about modern life is romantic; we get our thrills where we can. Gabrielle Katz, a publicist in New York who works with bridal businesses, told me that, after going through the indignities of looking for love on the apps, she wanted a ring that anchored her to a different sort of tradition. "I really went through the wringer with dating, so I was getting the real thing, in both a husband and a ring," she said. Her fiancé proposed to her with an old-mine-cut diamond last summer, shortly before news broke of Swift's engagement. "I have to be honest: thank God I had it first," she told me. The supply of antique diamonds is limited, so their audience will likely remain niche. If the status is in the story, then couples who swore off "blood diamonds" might not feel all that inclined to buy into a narrative that elides the conditions in which these gems were discovered; the alluvial diamond mines in, say, eighteenth- and nineteenth-century Brazil were largely run by enslaved laborers. Still, the aesthetic influence of stones like Swift's is transforming the jewelry world. "Judging by the tens of millions of people who are showing their excitement on Instagram, we can now expect a resurgence in old mine cuts and other heritage ring designs," Al Cook, the De Beers C.E.O., wrote. Simone Paasche, the co-founder of Spur Jewelry, a company that adapts heirloom jewels to modern tastes, told me that she's seeing fewer "finance-bro engagement-ring flexes," round, brilliant-cut diamond rings that cost something between twenty and thirty-five thousand dollars. Instead, people are requesting the sort of hand-engraving and antique-cut gems in which Lubeck specializes. There's been an uptick in customers asking for something "ancient," she said. To remain relevant, natural-diamond companies are rewriting narratives about rarity and perfection, even if it means contradicting themselves. Brown diamonds, once considered so worthless that they were sometimes used in drill bits, are seeing a resurgence, as are other stones that have been considered "cloudy," "milky," and "textured." In October, De Beers launched a campaign called Desert Diamonds, touting a collection of earth-toned diamonds that its executives likely would have sniffed at thirty years ago. After a press trip to Namibia, which was sponsored by De Beers, Tariro Makoni, a writer and brand strategist, wrote, "In my book, Cut, Color, Clarity is being replaced by Cut, Color, Clarity, and CHARACTER." After Sim Gems, Lubeck took me around the corner to a gemstones, diamonds, and jewelry wholesaler co-founded by Jay Moncada, whom Lubeck met at the Ethical Gem Fair in Brooklyn in 2023. The business sources stones that are much smaller and less rare than the ones we'd seen earlier that day, priced in the tens of thousands rather than the millions. More "down to earth," Lubeck said. In his office, Moncada, who was wearing jeans and a plaid button-down, pulled out a small Peruzzi-cut diamond. From some angles, it looked green; from others, it looked honey-yellow. "There's so much happening in this one, I'm going a little bit cross-eyed," Lubeck said, placing it in between the crevice of her ring and middle fingers. She passed me the magnifying glass. "Being in the era of A.I., when everything's feeling computerized and automated, [it's exciting] to get a stone where you're, like, 'This doesn't look anything like that,'" she said. "There's no uniformity. It doesn't look machined, there was a human behind it. I think for me, that's a huge draw. And I think I'm not alone in that." I'll admit it: up until that moment, diamonds were not doing it for me. Garish gems seemed to be everywhere I looked. They distracted me during New York Fashion Week, when editors waved them around in the front row. Recently, on the subway, when a woman took her hand out of her pocket to reveal a diamond the size of a peanut M&M's, I found myself blurting out, "Holy shit," and reflexively backing away. Before meeting up with Lubeck, I had read a market analysis by McKinsey & Company that laid out, among other possibilities, a nightmare scenario for the mainstream diamond industry: "assuming consumers cannot tell the difference between natural stones and LGDs," lab-grown diamonds, "all diamonds could simply go out of fashion, lose their appeal, and are no longer seen as a must-have for engagement rings." It didn't seem like such a bad outcome. Jewelers like Lubeck would be fine, and there are plenty of other alluring stones out there, like Montana sapphires. Of all the twentieth-century institutions to tear down, a place such as De Beers didn't seem like the worst candidate. Still, I was transfixed by the honeydew diamond. I thought back to a conversation that I'd had with Ope Omojola, a Brooklyn-based jewelry designer who prefers to work with natural stones. "They look like little terrariums," she told me. "There are all of these geological circumstances that create unusual phenomena. Like, O.K., so you're telling me that because of the circumstances of dripping water, heat, time, and all of these other things, now this piece of quartz has a blob of water trapped inside of it? And that water is tens of millions of years old? That's crazy." I imagined the many hands that the stone had passed through, the multiple marriages it might have seen. There was an appeal to the idea of an engagement ring that carried in it a residue of life. Lubeck asked Moncada for a UV light. Sometimes diamonds undergo an elementary reaction during the crystallization process which produces a fluorescent glow under the UV. "I'm just always looking for weird things," she said, with a shrug. The diamond lit up like a blue glow stick at a rave. This time, I was the one to gasp. "You're telling me that if I wore this to laser tag or a bowling alley everyone else's ring would stay quiet, and mine would," I gestured as though a firework were exploding off my hand. Lubeck nodded and laughed: "Anything for a little attention." submitted by /u/ElliotDriver to r/TaylorSwift [link] [comments]
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reddit.com |
ElliotDriver |
Jan 2, 2026 |
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IamA programmer who writes code for calculating diamond prices. AMA about De Beers, the diamond industry, synthetic diamonds, engagement rings, etc.
I am the CTO of Enchanted Diamonds, an online diamond jewelry retailer. I got into this business when I met a guy whose family had been diamond sellers for generations, and he wanted to turn his family business into a more technology-oriented online company, making custom-designed diamond jewelry more accessible to people who don't necessarily live near where it's manufactured. Anyway, our company works with a large number of international diamond sellers and polishers, as well as jewelry setters and manufacturers. Our offices are in midtown Manhattan, so as to be located near the diamond district in New York City. As CTO, my job involves designing and managing the technology that assists with the logistics of buying and selling diamonds and manufacturing and rendering diamond jewelry, as well as supervising our other software developers. I am exposed to many parts of the jewelry industry, so I could probably answer most questions that anyone would have about diamonds. Proof: https://enchanteddiamonds.com/reddit-ama.html edit: Answers to common questions: Various De Beers Questions: Diamonds have been valuable since antiquity, and have a history of being used in engagement rings by European nobility, but they used to be something that only wealthy people could afford. When huge deposits of them were discovered in Africa, there weren't enough wealthy people to buy them all, so De Beers started marketing them to middle-class people. Back in the 1930s, a couple would start having sex as soon as they got engaged, because it was kind of important to a guy that his wife was only ever with him, but there was no harm in starting early. So a lot of couples would be in sort of lengthy engagements until they were ready for the logistics of being a married couple. However, some guys would ask a girl to marry them, then start having sex, then eventually call off the engagement. This really sucked for the girl, since that'd be a huge scandal for her and her family. So De Beers got the idea to market diamond engagement rings as a sort of insurance against the guy taking off, (hence the "Diamonds are forever" marketing slogan) and it worked really well for them, financially. However, De Beers doesn't control the diamond industry to the extent that they used to. They actually lost a ton of money during the 1990s, trying to keep their monopoly. They're still the biggest player, but they only control 30-40% of the market now. This article explains it better. These days, diamond prices are controlled much more by market forces, and not so much by cartels. However, increased demand for diamonds from Asia, especially India, has caused wholesale prices to increase, while the share of the cost going to middlemen went down. Overall, diamond prices have been fairly stable over the last few decades, although they've become less stable since De Beers lost control of the market. Lab-Created Diamonds: No, lab-created diamonds are not perfectly flawless. They do have characteristic flaws, and they can be distinguished from natural diamonds via a number of techniques like those listed here. However, the presence of certain types of inclusions can often allow a gemologist to quickly rule out certain diamonds from being synthetic, leading some smug Redditors to apparently conclude that the way gemologists know a diamond is synthetic is when it's flawless. That's not true though. CVD (synthetic) diamonds do have inclusions (flaws), it's just that they're only specific types of inclusions, which sends up a red flag if a gemologist suspects that someone is trying to pass off a synthetic diamond as a natural one. When someone sells a diamond now, they also need to have it certified, in order to make sure it's not synthetic or a diamond simulant, and to grade it on various characteristics. Sort of like having a house or a car inspected before you buy it. However, it gets exponentially harder to create synthetic diamonds the larger you make them, and for diamonds larger than 1 carat, it's often cheaper to just buy a natural diamond. The largest synthetic diamond seller is probably Gemesis, and if you look at their larger synthetic diamonds, you'll probably be surprised at how expensive they are. Also, if you had a synthetic diamond and were trying to sell it, there would be very few dealers who would want to buy it. The whole diamond dealing, wholesale diamond selling network trades exclusively in natural diamonds. If you know what you're doing or have connections, it's actually pretty easy to sell diamonds via this network. Diamonds aren't actually worth anything! The thing that determines if something has value is whether it can be exchanged for other things that have value. And in that sense, diamonds are very valuable, at least if they're good quality and properly graded and certified. My business partner's grandparents escaped Germany during the Holocaust, after the Nazis had seized all their property. They were able to bring a few diamonds with them though, and they were able to sell these diamonds in order to get enough money to start a business. This is why diamonds are used as a way of smuggling wealth, since high-quality diamonds are worth far more per unit of weight than gold or platinum is. For this reason, we have to comply with a bunch of strict anti-money-laundering laws, which it wouldn't make sense to impose on us if diamonds weren't worth anything. And believe it or not, a lot of people actually invest in diamonds, the same way someone would invest in gold bullion: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamonds_as_an_investment You're scamming people out of money in order to enslave African kids! Uh, no. Diamonds are a commodity, like gold or silver or platinum or oil or anything else, and lots of people work in those industries. Anything that has value can be acquired and sold to fund people with bad motives. It's just that with diamonds, for some reason people think this is the norm, rather than the exception, when it's not at all. Accusing me of something some asshole warlord did in Africa is like accusing a gas station attendant of being responsible for the war in Iraq because he "sells oil". Blood diamonds used to be much more of a problem than they are now. However, there are diamond mines in Australia, Canada, and Russia as well, and Canada has a program to certify diamonds as coming from Canadian mines. Also, the whole reason blood diamonds used to be a problem is because diamonds do have value. Otherwise, they'd just be valueless rocks. Also, for some reason, a lot of westerners seem to think that Africans working in mines are all slaves or that all African countries are extremely corrupt or something. The largest producer of diamonds in Africa is Botswana, and thanks to their state-owned mining company, Botswanans (sp?) have a standard of living that's actually very good for a landlocked African country. Here's a good explanation of how Botswana's diamond industry has grown and changed over the years, and the effects that it's had on Botswana's economy: http://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/summer-2014-weldon-botswana-scintillating-moment How can I get the best quality diamond for my money? First, buy online, especially if you're in a state that has sales tax. Also, many online retailers will give you a discount if you wire them the money, rather than paying with a credit card. When you pay with a credit card, the retailer doesn't see about 3% of that money, so if you offer to wire money, they might knock 2-3% off of the price. Additionally, we've set up a tool that walks people through the diamond selection process, and explains where you can look for better deals. You can see that here: https://enchanteddiamonds.com/diamonds/search?guided_search=true Also, you can get higher-quality diamonds for less money if you ask about HPHT diamonds. These are natural diamonds that started off lower quality, but have been treated to make them look better. Most jewelers won't sell these unless you specifically ask about them, since it's considered dishonest to sell them to customers that don't know the difference. Of course, since they cost less, they'll also resell for less, and they'll be harder to sell. You can also buy a center stone online, then have a local jeweler set it in a ring for you. edit 2: If you don't want to buy a diamond engagement ring, you don't have to. My company's goal isn't to force people to spend loads of money on diamonds, it's to make the buying process easier and more transparent for people who do want to buy diamonds. But if you want a CZ or moissanite stone instead of a diamond, at least don't get ripped off. CZ costs a few dollars a stone wholesale, tops, and moissanite is maybe $50-$100 a carat, and prices are sure to drop next year, once the patent expires. Check prices on eBay, before some gemstone dealer sells you a stone that's "even better than a diamond" for ten times what it's worth. submitted by /u/virnovus to r/IAmA [link] [comments]
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reddit.com |
virnovus |
Jul 12, 2014 |