Saris M2 Smart Trainer Setup

A few days ago, I shared Anima TrainFlow — a zero-tab, simple LoRA trainer for Anima. The feedback was great, so I decided to take it a step further and complete the entire pipeline. Now, it doesn’t just train; it handles full dataset preparation, letting you go from raw images to training in exactly 3 clicks. For beginners, figuring out aspect ratios, bucketing, and tagging is a massive barrier to entry. For experienced users, jumping between different tools to crop and tag images just wastes time. I’ve integrated two dataset preparation features directly into the single-page UI to drop the entry barrier to absolute zero and save hours of prep time for pros. Now, the workflow looks like this: Dump 20-100 raw images into a folder ➔ Click 2 buttons to prep ➔ Hit Start. GitHub: https://github.com/ThetaCursed/Anima-TrainFlow The New Features: 1. Smart Object-Aware Cropping & Bucketing (Powered by U^2-Net) Just feed in your raw images, and the script handles the rest. It performs dynamic resizing and rescaling to distribute your images into optimal training buckets. If an image’s aspect ratio doesn’t fit a bucket, the local U^2-Net AI kicks in to detect the main subject and performs a smart crop to ensure no heads or important details are cut off. It resizes everything flawlessly and automatically backs up your original files. 2. Built-in Auto-Captioning (Powered by WD14 Tagger) No need to boot up external tools just to tag your dataset. With one click, the script uses the wd-eva02-large-tagger-v3 model - the current gold standard for accurate tagging(danbooru). It runs fast locally via ONNX, analyzing your dataset to generate precise .txt captions instantly. You can fine-tune the tag thresholds directly from the main screen. Why use it? Zero-Tab UI: Dataset prep, tagging, and training controls - everything you need is on one single screen. All-in-One Pipeline [NEW]: Smartly crop, bucket, and auto-caption your raw images without leaving the app. Truly Portable: Pre-configured environment - just extract and run (no complex Python setups). Low VRAM Friendly: Optimized for 6GB+ NVIDIA GPUs. Live Previews: Built-in gallery that updates in real-time as samples are generated during training. Prodigy Native: Pre-configured for intelligent learning rate handling. Previous Discussion & Logic If you want to dive deeper into the technical logic of the trainer or see the previous Q&A where I answered many common questions, check out my original post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/StableDiffusion/comments/1tcxhoq/anima_trainflow_simple_onepage_lora_trainer_for/ I'd love to hear your feedback! Let me know if these new automation tools help speed up your workflow or make the process easier. submitted by /u/ThetaCursed to r/StableDiffusion [link] [comments]

Hi everyone! I'm wrapping up a DIY Smart Filament Sensor project that's going fully open-source soon. It catches nozzle clogs, filament slips, and runouts with high precision, costing under $10 to build! 🛠️ Bill of Materials (BOM): Category Component Name Qty Description / Technical Details Electronics ESP32-C3 Super Mini 1 Main microcontroller (WiFi/BLE enabled, ultra-compact form factor) Electronics AS5600 Magnetic Encoder Module 1 Contactless filament movement tracking (Must include a diametric magnet) Electronics WS2812B Neopixel 5050 RGB LED 1 Status indicator (Single round PCB format) Mechanical Grooved Bearing (U604ZZ) 2 OD: 13mm, ID: 4mm (The pulley/bearing the filament rides on) Mechanical Dowel Pin (3mm x 15mm) 1 Smooth steel pin used as the central axle/shaft for the bearing mechanism Mechanical O-Ring / Seal Ring 1 OD: ~11mm (Stretched over the bearing to grip the filament and provide friction) Hardware PC4-M6 Pneumatic Fitting 2 6mm thread, used as entry/exit guides for the PTFE tubing Hardware Compression Spring 1 Pen-style spring to apply tension on the bearing Hardware M3 Screws As needed For main housing assembly and structural mounting Hardware M2 Self-Tapping Screws As needed For securing the ESP32, AS5600, and Neopixel PCBs 🚀 Key Features: USB-Only Klipper Integration: Plugs directly into your Raspberry Pi/host via USB. No motherboard wiring needed! Zero Cumulative Drift: Uses a differential sliding window algorithm. It matches commanded extrusion vs. actual movement, resetting drift automatically to prevent false-positive print pauses. Custom Setup App: A sleek React/Electron companion app for 1-click calibration, live measurement, and adjusting noise/sensitivity settings over serial. Smart RGB LEDs: Smooth status breathing/pulsing states via FastLED. I am finalizing the enclosure STLs and polishing the code to release it all on GitHub soon. I’d love to hear your thoughts and suggestions! submitted by /u/ozncshn to r/VORONDesign [link] [comments]

Hey r/IndoorCycling, I'm Olivier — physics researcher (15 years at CNRS) and triathlete. I got frustrated that the only way to measure CdA seriously was a wind tunnel trip costing thousands of euros. So I built AeroX. The image shows a real session: same rider (myself. ;-), almost same power output, different position. +4.1 km/h (+2.5 mph) just from optimizing the aero position. What AeroX does: Uses a standard webcam to detect your frontal area in real time Connects to your smart trainer via BLE Calculates your CdA live as you ride and change position Lets you compare positions instantly — no guesswork Setup: camera on a tripod in front of your trainer, two clicks to calibrate, under 2 minutes. Tested this with 10 triathletes from my local club — the position changes some of them made after a single session genuinely surprised me. Curious what the indoor cycling community thinks: Do you ever think about your aero position on the trainer, or is it purely a fitness tool for you? Any features you'd want from something like this? Still in beta. Happy to geek out on the aero science, the computer vision side, or anything else. AMA. 👉 aeroxbefaster.com submitted by /u/aerox-befaster to r/IndoorCycling [link] [comments]

Hello fellow cyclists! [Mods please delete if this is against the rules] It's winter up here in the northern hemisphere and for many of us that means indoor cycling! I'm looking for people to test their indoor cycling setup with a game-style indoor bike simulator that I've been building for the past year and a bit. It's called Weasel Wes's Cycling Simulator, and it's available for PCs only on Steam. It has a free demo, so there's no need to buy it in order to try it out! It has: Bluetooth & ANT+ connectivity Workout mode (trainer is set to a specific # of Watts and you need to output that) Freeride mode (adjusts the resistance according to the gradient) Unlockable Jumps Unlockable bike frames and wheelsets Upload to Strava - (Strava account required) Free demo One time purchase (No subscriptions!) So far it's been tested with: Elite Suito Wahoo Kickr Core Tacx Neo It partially works with Saris Hammer H3 Saris M2 I just pushed a change that should help with the Saris's resistance control, but I don't have a trainer to try it out with. If you do try it, please let me know what indoor smart trainer you used and if it worked. Also just speed sensors should work as well, so if you have a non-smart trainer & a speed sensor that should work. submitted by /u/weaselwescyclingsim to r/cycling [link] [comments]

Hey everyone! I have been doing a ton of research and checking out different things, however I am having trouble understanding some stuff and unsure if I am findings the cheapest, but quality, equipment! I have a bike (trek road bike) that ive been outdoor riding, but getting colder and icy and not trying to eat shit and freeze. I currently have nothing for indorro training outside of a matt. I have been looking at something eitjer a normal trainer like 30 bucks or a smart trainer like the Saris M2 Trainer (199$) which is quite pricey imo. I am essentially trying to get a setup from scratch to have the following functions: watt output, speed anf cadence sensors Stable bike trainer (i do need clip in shoes and pedals but thats less important regarding tje indoor setup) If anybody has any good recommendations, I would reslly appreciate it, but budget is somewhere from 50-150, willing to POSSIBLY go to 200-300 if its quality gear! Thank you!!! submitted by /u/GimmeSomeFinNoggin to r/triathlon [link] [comments]

Hi all, I got some money for a recent birthday and went ahead and ordered a Saris M2 so that I could ride when the weather outside is nasty. I specifically wanted a smart trainer so I could hook up to an app like Zwift and MyWhoosh. I have gotten the M2 setup, calibrated it, connected it to multiple apps (like Zwift and MyWhoosh and even the Saris app itself), and it will send data for a split second but then either stop or send very little data over Bluetooth. I've tried recalibrating, I've tried resetting the apps, but nothing has helped. Any suggestions? submitted by /u/littlewing52 to r/gravelcycling [link] [comments]

Hi all, I got some money for a recent birthday and went ahead and ordered a Saris M2 so that I could ride when the weather outside is nasty. I specifically wanted a smart trainer so I could hook up to an app like Zwift and MyWhoosh. I have gotten the M2 setup, calibrated it, connected it to multiple apps like zwift and MyWhoosh and even the Saris app itself, and it will send data for a split second but then either stop or send very little data over Bluetooth. I've tried recalibrating, I've tried resetting the apps, but nothing has helped. Any suggestions? submitted by /u/littlewing52 to r/cycling [link] [comments]

I just set up my Saris M2 Smart Trainer and downloaded MyWhoosh. My first question is, does the bike need to be in a specific gear when attached to the smart trainer? The instructions were lacking in my opinion. I have also noticed that no matter how hard I am pedalling, the animation of the rider on screen is going about as fast as a sloth. Is this normal or would it have something to do with my setup? Any help or guidance would be useful. My understanding when speaking with the associates at the bike shop was that this trainer would be so easy to use. submitted by /u/bravowhiskeygolf to r/mywhoosh [link] [comments]

Hi, As in the title, I am new to biking. I bought last year a used Rc100 just to try and see whether I liked to cycle. I enjoyed it a lot, even though the bike is pretty shitty. I also have a smart indoor trainer (saris M2 got used for 120 euros) to ride in the long winter time. Now, I want something better. I am in two minds between buying a used cervelo S3 2018 Ultegra that I found for 1100. It's a bit a shame to use it indoor the entire time, and at that point I would also need to upgrade my saris M2 to a proper indoor trainer that does not consume the tires. So it would be in total an expensive setup (also buying shoes etc). The point is that also upgrading RC100 would cost me around 300 euros for a used sora drivetrain. It would work for sure, and the indoor riding would be probably nice. But I am not sure that the expenditure is justified. I could get some Chinese group set just to use it indoor, but usually those cheap compromise lead to more expenditure in the long run What are your options? Money is not strictly speaking a huge problem, but it's a waste to throw money away . Should I settle for something intermediate? Any suggestions? submitted by /u/AmbroLandau to r/cycling [link] [comments]

I'm looking to upgrade my old bike trainer to a smart one for the winter. I had previously gotten two Garmin Speed Sensor 2s (one only ever worked outside and neither worked inside) and last week I bought a Wahoo Blue SC which just plain doesn't turn on or sync with my devices. Before anyone asks, yes I cleared my cache, uninstalled and reinstalled the apps and reconnected the devices. Unsynced all Bluetooth devices other than the Sensors and none of this worked. The company Customer Support hasn't been able to assist. I'm looking at sending the Wahoo Blue SC back, and getting the Saris M2 trainer at the current sale price of $219 on Amazon, but I am absolutely paranoid about wasting another 2 hundo on an electronic. I understand the smart trainer is usually $450, so my paranoia is worsened by the thought "why is there a 51% off sale if the product is good?" So Saris M2 lovers and haters: is it good? Is it bad? Is the setup easy? Does it connect to Android or iOS devices easier? I imagine the noise is easier to deal with than my cheap trainer. Does it take forever to sync, or can I see my stats on Strava within 24 hours? (My Garmin would randomly update my rides between 5 minutes after a ride was done, or 24 hours later and only captured up to .2miles of a 30 minute ride). Thanks for your patience, I just really want to spend my money smartly before the holiday season. I don't anticipate a better sale than 51% off so I want to buy asap. As for my current gear/experience: I can be considered a beginner cyclist. I have a trek mountain bike that was $350 new and it had a previous owner who barely took it out. I don't need a massively expensive/techy piece of gear, I just want something that works and can get my speed/mileage on Strava. If it can connect to DustlandRider, neat. If not, oh well. submitted by /u/IAmBabs to r/cycling [link] [comments]

I have just bought a turbo trainer and I am dealing with a thru axel for the first time. I have Saris M2 Wheel On Smart Turbo and a Saris thru axel adapter. I have a Specialized Tarmac Sl7. I have put the whole thing together, and it is working but I would love to hear from people with a similar setup because I have two questions. The axel is long enough that I can keep it from touching the carbon on the non drive side if I don't use spacers. I have used spacers on the drive side and the special spacer to keep the axel tight to the frame (the one that had an angled side to seat nicely). Do I need to add a spacer on the non drive side or should it be fine to ride? How tight should I make everything. I need to tighten the axel to the bike but I don't want to damage it, should I use a torque wrench and the recommendation for a normal axel or should it be something else because it is on the Turbo now. Thanks for your help. submitted by /u/oliverwblackwood to r/cycling [link] [comments]

I'm new (1 year) to cycling but am a very experienced endurance athlete and have found myself diving into the competitive end of things rather quickly. I know the importance of following a training plan and am trying to give myself the best chance of executing correctly. My current setup INDOORS is a smart trainer (Saris M2) with a dedicated bike and TV screen. It does the job and I'm not sure what else I could possibly want. However, when I take a workout outdoors, I've got a 7 year old Garmin Forerunner or an iphone. I don't have a power meter, HRM, or head unit. I want to dive into a mid volume plan but am held back by the idea of doing half the workouts outdoors, by feel with no feedback, while the workout details wash away from the sweat on my forearm. What would be your upgrade path to a better outdoor workout setup? I'm not a data nerd but I appreciate some amount of confirmation that I am/have done the workout correctly. Also, If the correct answer is "save for a carbon wheelset and just use a stopwatch", I'm okay with that too. submitted by /u/Low-Emu9984 to r/trainerroad [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Kinix_jp to r/IndieGaming [link] [comments]

As the title says, I am currently using an Apple Watch Series 5 as my HRM. And, my current setup is the following: mid-2014 MacBook Pro (with Intel Iris Graphics) Saris M2 Smart Trainer (connected by ANT+ to computer) iPhone XS Max (running Companion App) In October, I purchased a Wahoo Tickr, thinking that a proper Chest Strap HR would solve my connectivity issues as previously, my Apple Watch would drop-out (but re-connect within a second), so when looking on Strava, the graph was not a pretty sight (with so many signal drop-outs) . However, I must have been one of the unlucky ones as the Tickr had even worse connectivity, and was eventually replaced by Wahoo for being defective. The new strap worked fine, up until Zwift pushed through an update in December. This seemed to have borked the Tickr, as the signal would drop out and was unable to re-connect, until I restarted my iPhone, laptop and smart trainer. Back to the Apple Watch, which seemed to be doing better, until today. I only had one signal drop-out for my entire ride, but when I finished the ride (saved and closed on my laptop), the Companion App was still running on my watch. So, I attempted the following steps: Force quitting the Companion App on the watch (after doing that, the companion app would re-launch itself in the background) Force restarting both the Apple Watch and iPhone (this time, it showed that there was no workout in progress, but the Companion app was back in my "open apps" screen on the watch, and the battery was draining as if a workout was still in progress). Turning off Bluetooth on both my iPhone and Apple Watch, and then shutting both off, waiting a few minutes, and then turning both back on again (this time, the Companion App seems to no longer be visible, but my battery life was still draining quite quickly, and my ride data was not syncing from my iPhone to watch). Unpairing the watch from my phone, and then re-pairing (so far, it seems to have fixed the situation, but battery charging is going quite slowly). Is anyone else running into this issue? And, is there a better method to resolving this problem than un-pairing and re-pairing the watch? submitted by /u/thediamondguest to r/Zwift [link] [comments]

Hi all, I just got my Saris M2 Smart Trainer and have completed the setup to the point of the rear skewer. My bike doesn't have a quick release rear skewer, and instead a nutted Axel. I read that they sell an adapter (currently out of stock) that will work for this situation, but who knows when that will be back in stock. I actually went and put the bike up on the trainer and surprisingly it fits very well and secure with the existing nuts, which leads me to my question: am I good just using the trainer or as is or is there a danger in using the existing rear Axel and threaded nuts as opposed to getting a rounded cap one? Thanks for the help! Joe submitted by /u/koldby1919 to r/cycling [link] [comments]

Hi all, Background: I am interested in purchasing an indoor bike trainer for an affordable apartment Zwift setup. I currently have a left crank 4iiii power meter for my bike. I also have a Garmin Edge 530 unit. From what I understand, it seems as though I could purchase a "dumb" indoor bike trainer and use my power meter, or purchase a "smart" trainer with the option to use my power meter. Options I am currently considering: Saris Fluid2 - Currently $350 and with an upcoming sale it would be $280. Garmin TACX - Currently $349 on Amazon, uncertain about future sales. Kurt Kinetic Road Machine - Currently $349 online. Kickr SNAP - Currently $499, and with an upcoming sale it will be $400. Saris M2 - Currently $499 online, uncertain about future sales. What route do you think I should go? I am leaning towards the Kickr SNAP if I am able to get it for $400. Thanks, Jake submitted by /u/mthiel21 to r/cycling [link] [comments]

As the title says, I am noticing that when I'm in a workout on Swift, my cadence is all over the place, even though I'm producing the same effort. For example, the program will want me to hit a target of 95 rpm, but, as I'm pedaling, the cadence will be all over the place--either below 90 rpm or above 100 rpm. And, if I start to pedal faster if I'm below 90 rpm, it will show my cadence as falling, until it jumps back up to 100+ rpm. Yet, when I'm in normal ride mode, my cadence will follow my pedaling effort, and not change so wildly. My setup is: Saris/Cycleops M2 Smart Trainer (firmware version 31.063) 2003 Specialized Expedition Hybrid Bike Continental HomeTrainer 26x1.75 tire 13" MacBook Pro running MacOS 10.13.6 (drives a TV via HDMI cable) iPhone XS Max running iOS 14.2 (build 18B92) (the smart trainer is running through Zwift Companion as well as my HRM) As it stands right now, I'm unable to pair the smart trainer with my MBP as the Bluetooth in MacOS cannot see the trainer (even if it is right next to it). Should I consider switching to ANT+ instead to Bluetooth for the trainer, or, is it just an issue with Zwift and that version of smart trainer? submitted by /u/thediamondguest to r/Zwift [link] [comments]

Title pretty much explains it all. I got a refurbished road bike earlier this summer and got really into cycling. Once winter hits Colorado, I don't think I can do much cycling outside (please let me know If I'm wrong here) and I also want to start measuring and training to improve my performance. If the goal is an enjoyable online ride with the ability to track wattage/speed, should I get a smart trainer or should I attach a power meter to my bike and use a cheap trainer? Craigslist is looking pretty dry right now and I'm thinking of the Saris M2 for the trainer because REI sells it and I can always return it if I don't like it after 90 days. I would greatly appreciate any recommendations for specific trainers/meters or general build plans! submitted by /u/3rd_normal_form to r/Zwift [link] [comments]

I have a Spot Ajax with a Shimano Alfine 7 internal hub. All the posts I've seen are old/outdated/minimal answers. I'm looking for a compatible smart trainer for an indoor setup. I'm a relative noob to cycling and have never used a trainer. I'm a 5'3.5 136lb woman and would like to workout with some level of grade, but am not a pro, riding with the beastly guys (and gals).. Just heading into cold Colorado fall and winter and needing to keep more active. Other posts mentioned tacx vortex and flow, and saris m2.. Seems like the 4iiii fliiiight might work.. Or Kinetic rock and roll or road machine with control unit. Any recommendations that will work with an internal gear hub much appreciated! I'm trying to keep the budget in the medium 300-700 range. Bonus if it'll swap to a standard quick release bike easily as that's what my hubs rides. 😜 submitted by /u/Jackie_B42 to r/cycling [link] [comments]

So first and foremost I’d like to say there’s probably nothing I’ve done right on my zwift setup but it was all on purchased on a whim without much research. Currently I’ve got a Sportneer Fluid Trainer, a Wahoo Speed Sensor, and a Nishiki Anazi Hybrid that has 700x40C tires. I’m relatively new to biking and where as I enjoy riding outside my schedule and personal life don’t make it easy to get out before the sunsets. Hence the trainer setup. When I ride outside Strava clocks me roughly 10-11mph. I just gave it my all for 30 minutes and I averaged 7mph on the trainer. I definitely was spinning harder than I do outside. I ran into some issues on setup. First my tire isn’t supported in the setup. I went with the 700x35c. Secondly the Sportneer isn’t supported either and I chose unsupported. Did I make a mistake with any of my setup? Should I make any changes? I’m still within my return policy for the trainer and wahoo speed sensor. I looked and I like the idea of smart trainers but the most I could afford would be the Saris M2. Would I notice any difference there? Not sure how much variance my tire would play as well. Sorry for the multitude of questions. Appreciate the help in advance. submitted by /u/jharris1984 to r/Zwift [link] [comments]

With REI's winter sale going on I'm looking at the Wahoo Kickr Snap and the Saris M2 Smart Trainer. After sale coupons they are within $25 dollars of each other so price isn't really the issue, just want whichever one is better. Wahoo seems to be more popular, the Saris actually has a higher incline level. Looking for any suggestions. Also, just to save the comments, skipping the direct drive one because the wife and I's bikes have different gear setups, so I don't want to have to change rear cassettes all the time. Thanks for any advice. submitted by /u/tharpy22 to r/cycling [link] [comments]

Seeing as there's a lot of people that don't quite know the extent of the issues and that there's no real compilation of the problems, I feel like everyone needs a list with info and sources of each and every current problem with the games, it's a long list but I've tried to put it all together, it's not just dexit people.I will post everything that is 100% confirmed and known so far, there's potentially other problems, but this is made as a somewhat "quick" digest with info that has been 100% proven, for anyone out of the loop that wants to know exactly what's happening with these games. The number of usable Pokemon has been cut, only less than half are now usable, known as Dexit, it means that you won't be able to use these pokemon in the new games, you won't be able to transfer them in, and you won't be able to do anything with them sans sticking them in home for the foreseeable future (Home will probably be a paid only subscription based service just like its predecessor), for all intents and purposes, these Pokemon are basically removed from the main games franchise and they will take probably years to come back, if ever.An image with the cut/not cut pokemon can be found here, pokemon in green are confirmed to be in, pokemon in purple have galar forms, pokemon in yellow are in the data, but there's nothing for them, they could be leftover data like the items and other things, could be giveaway/event only, could only come from other games, etc, there's no way to know what's the plans for them at the moment, if any, pokemon in red are cut.The excuse GF used for this culling was that it let's them work on delivering better animations and a more carefully crafted game, since they don't have to put more time and effort into redoing the models.This is complete BS as the game polish is worse than ever, and the models seem to just be somewhat edited XY models. Just like the Pokemon cut, about 144 moves were removed, 99 moves excluding the let's go and other outlier moves, this includes extremely important and used mainstay moves like Hidden Power, return/frustration and Pursuit, on top of extremely old moves that have been there since gen 1, some of these moves were important for the viability of several Pokemon, which may cause them to be way less effective if not way worse when it comes to battles, on top of this, it also removed some SIGNATURE MOVES of certain Pokemon.The full list for deleted mainstay pokemon moves can be found hereAttempts at transferring Pokemon with these moves will apparently get this message: "This move can’t be used. It’s recommended that this move is forgotten. Once forgotten, this move can’t be remembered." Short game, the first streamer beat the champion at around the 14 hour mark, while he did this by skipping a fair amount of trainer battles, other streamers are clocking in about 16-20 hours, seems like the average will be about 18 hours to beat the game.Here's one of the many streamers, he's right before champion and clocking in at 14:34. The graphics are extremely mediocre, it constantly looks worse and less polished than LGPE, the textures are often inexcusable.Examples of the bad graphics seen here123456A comparison with LGPE can be seen here and hereHere's a game recently released for switch, another picture found here, the difference is unreal. There's constant graphical issues, not just low quality graphics, pop in is present at all points of the game due to bad coding, this is explained below, trainer models will also disappear mid battle when an attack with a high number of particles is used, this also happened in SM, however, SM moved the camera away to avoid people seeing it, they didn't even try this time.This means it's either a carry over from SM and they just copy pasted most of the code, or they somehow have to remove the trainers to avoid a switch from somehow getting fps drops.The pop-ins can be evidenced here, here and hereTrainers disappearing mid battle can be evidenced here Since a lot of people feel like the pop in section needs to be extended, pop ins are used to not overload the console, once the camera/player enters certain area, the models are loaded, otherwise the game would be loading everything at all times. Different games deal with this in many different ways, witcher 3 for example makes anything that's not in the "main" area of the camera to be extremely blurry, with basically no details, however, they still somewhat retain their shape, so if you look at them in the background they still look like humans.n64/ps1 games used the good old fog, games like Silent Hill went the extra mile and used this fog to create a horror like effect, when you use fog, you use it to spawn the models INSIDE the fog as the player gets close, so by the time the player sees them, the models would already be loaded, there's no extremely apparent pop in. Game Freak basically decided to not do any of these and the dozens upon dozens of other techniques, not only is the switch powerful enough to not need to do this in such a close distance for a 30 fps locked game, not using any technique to make it look better is an absolute disgrace, it shows a heavy lack of effort and commitment.Since the switch shouldn't need to remove/pop in the models, it falls down to a classic example of GF bad coding and bad decisions. There's many examples of this, some of the most famous are the red/blue/yellow/green bugs, the almost scrapped gold/silver because they couldn't fit the data, every game carrying over tons of data from past games for no reason (things like items from hoenn still being in the code for gen 5) and the 140 or so lillie models in SM because they didn't knew how to load 1-3 models for specific scenarios, they just put a lillie in every single map that had an interaction with her and called that model, remember those massive slowdowns in SM? It's a long standing issue within the series. Animations, one of the main reasons why GF cut pokemon, at least in the interviews, are as shoddy as ever.There's extremely lazy animation all over the game, from normal attacks to key moments in the game, such as the encounter with the box legendaries. Most of the animations are also completely copy pasted from older games, one example seen here with Hau(the entire character of hop is basically a copy paste of hau.) Most of the animations for the camp are also copy pasted from xy amie, evidenced here Pokemon battle animations are just as bad as before, if not worse, pictured here is a pokemon headbutting with its feet.Another example found here, THE MAIN BOX ART POKEMON CINEMATIC, THIS IS THE GAME CLIMAX, another example on the other version found here In fact, it could be considered way worse if compared to the last gen, example of upscaled USUM cutscenes. (Notice the graphical change isn't that big, the only difference here is increasing the resolution) Cutscenes and restrictions, like previous Pokemon games the cutscene and story forcing and restrictions are insane this time around, seems to be even more intrusive and in your face than before at times, while keeping the same level of cutscene intrusion than past gen. The video for this point was taken down, but if you wish to see this you should be able to find it by searching the gameplay clips/streams online 8. The difficulty, just like the cut scene problem, this carries over from earlier games and it's even worse.There were constant heals, to the point where in the first routes you're not able to go beyond 3 trainer fights without getting a full heal. The first streamer avoided fights and didn't train at all, it still was one shotting gym leader dynamaxed ace pokemon.This can be seen here. Post-Game is almost non-existant, as usual since masuda-Ohmori started directing, there's no frontier, there's also no frontier like facility. The post game consists of battle tower and a very short sequence of missions where you beat some dynamax pokemon for your rival to catch the other legendary Not only this, but the battle tower is also an inferior version of past towers, it doesn't have super single nor super double battles, it has no triple battles and there's no "tower bosses", it's just random trainer npcs after another. Problems with game design and behavior, beyond difficulty and progression, there's other problems in the overall game design. Examples of this is not being able to catch Pokemon in the wild areas until you got a badge allowing you to do so, which usually covers your current level. Meaning if you find a level 31 shiny or a level 31 pokemon you really want, you won't be able to catch it until you go and beat the next gym.For shiny hunters, this one is gonna be really important, you cannot see if your Pokemon is gonna be shiny or not in the overworld, this means that on top of the badge limit, you also got this potential problem. Evidenced here. Removed past features with virtually no new additions, seems like this is a mainstay in Pokemon, removing older features so they become one of a time gimmicks, but unlike earlier titles this new game doesn't adds anything new except dynamaxing, which is limited to gyms only. This particular gen removes Mega Evolutions and Z moves, mega evolutions in particular were a huge deal and seeing them suddenly removed means that there's little reason to get involved with any new addition, no matter how mainstay or how much GF forces it when it will very soon be gone. A list of these removed features can be found here. 12. No scaling whatsoever, models are the same sizes of XY (giving more plausibility to them not really redoing the models). Any argument against this is thrown out of the window when dynamaxing exists, since the models seem to be edited XY models then the problem remains.Here's the non scaled model in sword and shield. Here's an scaled model, released in a game that came out 15 years ago for a the Nintendo Gamecube, something way less powerful than the switch. No GTS, retera thread on the discovery found here, the only strings that refer to the GTS are leftovers from Let's Go code, as seen here and here. This is most likely due to Home(this means that you will have to pay for switch online+home for services older games already included)Thanks to /u/c_will for pointing this one out and gathering the info. A 20 dollar price increase for less content than earlier 3DS games, with subpar graphics and removal of features, an overall shoddy release for a higher price point. Performance, game is locked to 30 fps, and while that's not a big issue by itself, this is coupled with slowdown at certain moments such as dynamaxing, it can drop fps to the floor and turn the game into a slideshow for a while.A game with shoddy graphics, running at 30 fps tops, should NOT be experiencing these issues.Evidenced here. Massive slowdown also seen at the end of [this clip] (https://twitter.com/BesuBaru/status/1194055399630163968), the clip also does a good job of pointing out the graphical problems. Game-breaking bugs, there's now reports of the game freezing and crashing.Evidence shown here, this is captured through a switch, not emulated.16. The overall lack of quality, polish and effort put into the game, this is all the minor/somewhat minor but still very telling problems with the game.This is apparent in many ways all throughout the game, things like the wrong backgrounds or just voids for pokemon battles.Two example of the wrong backgrounds seen here and [here] (https://clips.twitch.tv/FriendlyCleanOstrichArsonNoSexy) One example of the void background seen here (these happen on indoor fights and some non indoor but scripted battles)Examples of backgrounds on indoor and everywhere else in both LGPE and colosseum, seen here and here.Then there's complete lack of music in the game story most important moments, seen here.Starters are also shiny locked.The entire world freezes when using certain objects, as seen here.To this, you add up the emptiness of the wild area and the badly implemented weather changes that don't make much sense, both seen hereNo animation for flying, no elite 4, no victory road, etc, this is added to all the other problems that show the lack of effort put into them. This franchise deserves better. You deserve better. These games are not only a huge step down from earlier titles, but it goes beyond what used to be already barely tolerable standards to way below standards, keep in mind this is the biggest, most profitable franchise on earth. This is the first time a pokemon main game is released on console, people were excited for game freak to finally do whatever they wanted and it's been done with the most minimal of efforts, all the money you've spent on Pokemon didn't went on making this a better game, it went straight into the pockets of the people in charge, those that made sure this was made with the most minimum effort and those that cut corners. Companies that made games decades ago on hardware less powerful than the switch shouldn't be doing a better job than game freak, and companies doing work in the switch have completely obliterated game freak when it comes to developing a video game. Keep in mind that your purchase of these games causes this: Continue the yearly release cycle that makes the games rushed and forces the devs to insane crunch time, creating the low morale problem Tells them that you're ok with these problems, and they will keep lowering the bar and cutting corners on development Your money will continue going into the pockets of those responsible for these problems I implore you to be a smart consumer, I've played Pokemon since I red, ever since I was a child, I can no longer support this franchise, I probably won't buy a Pokemon product ever again if this is gonna be how they're gonna treat the games and its fans. Thank you u/Restinpeacesquirtle for helping me with extra footage and proof. submitted by /u/Terotu to r/pokemon [link] [comments]