Usb C Adapter

... einen Vorschlag für einen guten Adapter, oder tut es da jeder... OBD Kabel und Adapter Rj45 auf Smartphone Stecker USB C. Beide Kabel etwas...

....0 VGA UVC WebCam type: USB driver: uvcvideo bus-ID: 1-5:4... Atheros QCA9565 / AR9565 Wireless Network Adapter vendor: AzureWave driver: ath9k v...> Bluetooth: Device-1: IMC Networks type: USB driver: btusb v: 0.8...: cpu: 6280.4 C mobo: 56.0 C Fan Speeds (RPM): cpu...

... Remove any recently added hardware (USB devices, external drives, new internal... Ensure the system drive (usually C:) has at least 10–15..., ensure the battery and power adapter are functioning correctly. If Event...

... devices at lightning speed (USB C1 140W+ USB C2 65W). MacBook Pro... 30Mins. With 3 USB ports (2 USB C and 1 USB A), this USB C power bank can... hours by a 65W power adapter, 5 times faster than ordinary ...

Charge 4 Devices Without Compromise: Enjoy consistent and convenient charging for all your gear thanks to 2 USB-C ports and 2 USB-A ports. Dual-Port Fast Charging with 50W Max Output: Even with both ports used, USB-C1 maintains full 30W output and USB-C2 charges at 20W. Compact and travel-ready: slips easily into your bag or pocket for effortless power on the go. Stay Protected with ActiveShield 4...

... CrystalEye Webcam driver: uvcvideo type: USB rev: 2.0 speed: 480 Mb...: Qualcomm Atheros AR928X Wireless Network Adapter vendor: Foxconn T77H047.31 802....0%) priority: -2 file: /swapfile USB: Hub-1: 1-0:1 info: full...: System Temperatures: cpu: 55.0 C mobo: N/A Fan Speeds...

Grabbed two of these from my local Apple store today. Great way to add 2.5Gb to a mac mini m4. Belkin also sells a black version directly. submitted by /u/karnac to r/apple [link] [comments]

If anyone wants to charge a GBA SP with USB C without modding this is brilliant. Especially as it allows you to charge and use headphones at the same time. Got mine for about £10 on AliExpress. submitted by /u/midnight_umbreon_666 to r/Gameboy [link] [comments]

Is there any better 180 C adapter? With better fit? I do not like the gap as it still make a tension on the Usb C. submitted by /u/nssoundlab to r/SteamDeck [link] [comments]

Update video here Original video here Original post here TLDR: I made a USB-C PDU for my Optiplex cluster, it was well received so I made more variants, an update video and have got DIY kits on pre-order Repo is here, with 7 variants total. 4x 10 inch and 3x 19 inch If you want to buy an assembled or blank PCB, or a full kit you can through my store in the YT video Survey link here if you want your say in the development of V2 FAQ at the bottom Hello again! It's been a busy few months, but I'm back with an update. First of all, thank you for the support on my last post. The feedback was amazing and it was clear that there was more interest than I originally thought, so I dedicated some more time to flesh out the idea and make the PDU as accessible as possible for anybody interested in making one. First, I had a list of changes to make and tests to do which are all now complete. I've cleaned up the design, made cable routing easier, redesigned the PCB tray to double as an assembly bracket, added reinforcement and heaps of small changes to the PCB itself. Then I ran load, burn in and efficiency tests, while also monitoring temperatures. All components operate well within their limits (Grafana screenshots towards the end) and it's been rock solid under load and during daily use, more test results can be found below. I then designed 6 more variants all around the same PCB, 4x 10 inch and 3x 19 inch using sub-assemblies where I could. Variants: 10 Inch: Original - My initial design, used to prototype and test the idea. Uses a sheet metal housing and has 5 outputs. Unibody 3D printed - Same 5 outputs, housing is printed in 3 pieces, designed to use no heated inserts and as little hardware as possible. Modular 3D printed - 5 outputs, made to be printed in smaller parts then assembled together, uses a lot more hardware due to the modularity. Dual - Back to the metal housing, but has 2 breakout PCBs for a total of 10 outputs. Made to be used with external power supplies or for people with alternative power sources like solar / battery. 19 Inch: Single - Original design but in a 19" chassis. Plenty of space on the side for a micro PC or cables. Dual - Two sets of internals for a total of 10 outputs. Dual SBS - Another 10 output variant, but this time more suited to OCD people like me that want inputs and outputs on the same side. Will require one PSU harness to be longer than the other. All variants can be found in the live repo! This is the best place to go if you want to know more about the variants, or want to check out the designs. The repository contains everything you need to make one, including files for printing a housing or sheet metal manufacturing, PCB Gerber files, renders, exploded views and bills of material. (There's also links at the top to buy me a coffee if you'd like to support the project and the work that's gone into it.) **I've tried to do my due diligence with the repository but there's a lot of ground to cover so if you find anything wrong, please raise an issue on GitHub and I'll get onto it. Future: I will be making a V2 with both smart and non-smart variants, then getting it certified so I can sell them off the shelf. But development and manufacturing a product is very expensive, especially if it needs certification for EMC and electronic safety standards. This is not something I have the pocket depth for, so the plan is to use funds from kit sales to develop the full version that's more suited for mass production and distribution. I can then use this to launch a Kickstarter or a pre-order to get funds to scale manufacturing and take everything through certification. Tests: I did all my tests with 5 nodes, but my normal rack only consists of 4 PCs. (Dell OptiPlex 3070, 9500T, 16gb) Load and Temperature: I ran a series of stress tests over 3 days, plotted component temperature and monitored up time, it stayed rock solid and ran well within the thermal limits. I also did droop testing to make sure everything is stable under massive load changes. The highest temperature any of the components saw was 70-75c. The gap in the middle of the graphs is down time between 12 hour runs. The temperatures were collected using thermo-couples attached to the mosfet, power delivery board inductors, PCB and USB-DC converter, as well as an ambient probe. Readings were done via an ESP-32, all reporting back to a local InfluxDB server and displayed with Grafana. During the load tests, I couldn't detect any major droops below 24V that would cause an issue with the input on the USB-C power delivery boards. Efficiency: It's less efficient than stock power supplies, due to the more complex power conversion, but for me that translates to $1-$2 more a month, which I'm more than happy with. Idle Load Stock 77W 313W PDU 86W 317W FAQ: Why USB-C? Why not a buck converter to a barrel jack output? Mainly because I saw the USB to DC adapters and wanted to use them, plus I like the idea of having the whole rack run off one USB-C PDU. (6-Bay USB-C powered DAS anyone?) Dual power supplies or a UPS? Yes, definitely something I've looked into, but it would have required a full redesign of the PCB so for this version it was out of scope. Will be a stretch goal for the future development of V2. Where did you get the adapters and boards from? Mostly from AliExpress, I've got links, search terms and pictures on the GitHub. For the next revision I will either develop my own, or integrate them directly onto the main PCB. Are you going to make a video on the rack itself? Yes absolutely, I have a lot planned with my mini-rack and will film and share as much of it as I can. The update took much longer than I thought, getting kits ready, designing the variants, getting the repo setup and filming everything was a huge amount of work. But I'm happy with V1 in the current state and am excited to hear what people think, then move on to the next stage of development and more projects. If you have any questions that aren't answered in the video or the repository, or have suggestions, please let me know. A big thanks again for all the support, whether it be a comment, a view or messages, it was great to hear what people had to say, and see the interest in the project. Update video here Cheers! submitted by /u/maleng_ to r/homelab [link] [comments]

Seriously, it's been a huge help. I got my kiddos those squeezable night lights that change color. They charge with a USB C cable. Despite having a decent battery I usually keep them plugged in to make sure they stay on all night because my son (2yo) needs it to sleep. Between him and my 3yo daughter, they burned through 4 cables before I broke down and got these. Total game changer. Now they can yank the squishies off the night stand without damaging the cable and because it's magnetic, they can plug it back in as well. submitted by /u/Work-Safe-Reddit4450 to r/daddit [link] [comments]

Uses a Gulikit TMR replacement Joy-Con joystick, so there is no drift. The way I installed it means the Y axis would be flipped if I just directly connected it to the 2DS. I used a microcontroller to correct it, as well as adjusted the ranges to match what a regular circle pad would be so that there are no sensitivity issues (I would've used an mcu anyway so I just oriented it in a way that makes it easy to install). White USB-C port to match the console. Also connects to the capture card inside, which is an Optimize.ath.cx 3DS XL capture card with a flex PCB adapter. Controller mod is Loopy's. It uses a 2.5mm TRRS jack. This means it can only support Wii Classic controllers due to only having 4 conductors, but there are a bunch of compatible adapters for other controllers. submitted by /u/Ladair- to r/3DSMods [link] [comments]