Cement Glue For Shoes

... Contact adhesives Contact cement Denture Adhesive Epoxy Epoxy putty Glue Liquid gasket... Skates Rubber Cement Shag Rugs Shampoo Shoe Polish Shoelace Aglets Shoes Shower... Safety harnesses Safety helmets Safety shoes Antibacterial creams Antibiotics Antifungal medication... Umbrellas Upholstery Yoga pants thletic Shoes Automotive belts Conveyor belts Exercise...

... the factory glue fails on the tread. I use contact cement and... pair, Skechers hiking fabric/leather shoes are still in the box... Scotch masking tape/DAP-Weldwood contact cement, now back in service. I... to remove residual masking tape glue from the soles, or otherwise... peppered with splotches of paint, glue, grease or sanding residue.

... rack.) Apart from the Aphid Shoes, headgear has a number of.... Grinder Resources: Snail Shells (Cask Cement) and Rotten Eggs (Rotten Egg... (hatcheable buggy eggs.) The Cask Cement could be used for a..., for instance, a higher tier "glue," a new-stronger wall ingredient, "calcium...

...condition the leather, inject glue with a syringe, apply...: Automotive Glue - Amazon.com: Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement - 4... oz Leather Glue Adhesive - ...Shoes, Furniture, Purse - Non-Toxic & Non-Flammable Amazon.com: Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement... - 4 oz Leather Glue Adhesive - ...Leather Repair for Jackets, Shoes, Furniture, Purse - Non-Toxic...

... Vapor Glove 6) -Flip-Flops/Shower Shoes (Daiso) -Shoe Bag -Small Collapsible... Test Light, Zip Ties, Hot Glue) -RM Skinny Pouch - Green... Ziploc baggie -Tube Patches -Rubber Cement -Hand Pump (Lezyne Grip Drive...

... was thin, folded with pre-applied glue; it slipped into the seam...; felt resistance, like hitting wet cement. "Too thick to cut it... existing. He kicked off his shoes, dropped his bag on the...

... not dirt and stone. It's cement and steel and jagged slabs... up. The rock under my shoes shivers. One girl near the... of the mountain start reshaping. Cement grinds and melts into new ... polished curve and start sliding, shoes screeching uselessly. Some flail. Some... down with what looks like glue and refuses to move. The...

 My Georgia steel toe work boots started to separate between the welt and the midsole (first picture shows the threads have broken, other pictures the sole is starting to separate but still stitched). I bought these boots specifically so I could resole when it was time. I took them to a cobbler for repair. He said he couldn’t resole without a full rebuild costing most than the boots were originally, but suggested I glue them back together with superglue. Is superglue the right adhesive, or should I see another cobbler about resoling? I feel like shoe goo, rubber cement, or epoxy would be better and less brittle, but this was a purported expert. I’ve got no issue gluing if they’d still be resoleable in the future, but I’d hate to ruin their repairability because I wanted a quick fix. I’ve got another pair I’m wearing in the meantime. submitted by /u/PNWmaker to r/AskACobbler [link] [comments]

I’ve had these Docs for 5ish years and have been wearing them daily for them past two years. They are limited edition 1460 Doc Martens made from Nappa leather (allegedly) with embroidery on all four panels (originally purchased for $130 at Nordstrom off the Rack). I love these shoes dearly and get compliments all the time, but they are beginning to fall apart. I have holes in both heel treads and the heels themselves have been ground down from hundreds of miles walked. I am beginning to wear through the sole on the right shoe and the toe boxes have pretty intense wear. The panels with the embroidery are still in pretty decent shape. I went to a cobbler in St. Louis to ask about getting them resoled and was informed it would be impossible, as apparently the glue Docs uses is essentially cement. He said in order to save the embroidery they would essentially have to place the embroidered panels into a brand new shoe. Is the repair worth it, or even possible? There are people reselling them is good condition at the same price I purchased for, but these shoes hold a lot of sentimental value and I don’t want to just throw them out and buy a new pair. Should I take them to a cobbler or wear them until they fall off and put them in a shadow box? TLDR; my docs are very worn and I want to save them but not sure if it’s feasible. submitted by /u/Proud-Variety4633 to r/AskACobbler [link] [comments]

my first pair of shoes are a pair of 5.10 asym vcs that i got second hand over a year ago. since i got them the soles had been slightly peeling off, and for the past year i’ve been sticking them back on with contact cement (glue?). lately the whole thing has started to come off so i figured i might as well buy a new pair. im currently climbing around v3s and prefer slabs but will do anything i know that shoes don’t make you magically better, but would a more aggressive shoe add anything at this level? should i just treat it as an investment and go for it anyway?? im looking at either the 5.10 hiangle or soill street. would appreciate any thoughts !! submitted by /u/saltiestmage to r/climbingshoes [link] [comments]

This might help someone looking for new shoes. So I'm just posting it here. TLDR: I had my Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66 for around 7-8 years. I bought it around 2019, back when they were cheap. I'd recommend these shoes for someone looking for an all around shoes that lasts. I know there's no "buy it for life" shoes but I think 7-8 years (and still going strong. I'm still using it daily) is good enough for shoes worn daily as workout/gym/casual shoes and everything else in between. But if I were to buy new shoes now I'd look for a Mexico 66 that have real leather stripes, I've seen them before. Or I'd buy the Serrano CLs, they're all leather uppers and linings. Those pleather Onitsuka iconic stripes that people love so much? I hate them. They're the first to fail and make the shoes look shabby even if the rest of the shoes are in good condition. ••• USE & DURABILITY: I only have 2 pairs of shoes... 2 Mexico 66 in black and white. 1 pair I use for everything--gym, sprinting, running, walking, martial arts, going around town, etc. The other is a backup pair when the main one is being resoled at the cobblers. I also use the backup (cleaner pair) for church and going out. With proper maintenance, they last really long. The leather parts still look good after years of wear. You only see the age of the shoes on the synthetic pleather stripes and the suede parts. MAINTENANCE: Before my 1st use of the shoes I spray some rain and dust protector I bought from Sperry's. Then I use leather cleaner and leather lotion (also from Sperry's) at least 1-2x a year or until they get shabby. I don't let mud and gunk sit on the shoes or stick and stay on the soles. I also put some silica packets to absorb moisture and sweat when I'm not using them to prevent them from stinking. When they get wet from the rain, I put more silica packets and leave them where there's air circulation so they can dry out. I also remove the laces cuz those hold on to water longer and so I could also open and air the shoes better. ••• REPAIR / REPAIRABILITY: The suede part on the toe of the right pair tore 3 years ago, while I was doing my daily reps of roundhouse kicks on the bag. That I glued on the fabric inner lining of the shoe and reinforced with a stitches. There's also a tear at the bottom of the shoes, you won't see it. It's where the leather sticks to the soles. My mistake was use super glue to stick the uppers to the soles when the original adhesive failed. Don't do that! It makes the leather hard and brittle. Then it tears. Most of the repairs over the years were mostly replacing the outsoles. I had the cobbler sand down the outsole pattern and stick a new outsole. If you pay more for Vibrams outsoles they last longer, 1-2 years in my experience. The leather used on these shoes are durable and flexible but I find a sharp needle can go through it easily. You can use some pliers to push in and pull out the needle, makes life easy. If you want to stick the leather together use a leather glue or a good fabric glue. Contact cement is good but that brownish color looks bad. The inside of the shoes is lined with a fabric. That you can stick back to the leather using fabric glue. RESTORATION: For the suede parts, you can buy a suede dye and sealer. What you do is you recolor the suede parts and dry it with a hair dryer or heat gun so the color doesn't spread and sets faster. Re-apply and repeat until you get the color you want. Then use the sealer so the dye doesn't wash out. For those annoying fake leather stripes... I used a high-grit sand paper to remove the loose parts. Then I used leather paint to paint over it. It took multiple thin coats but eventually got it right. Don't use leather putty to try and restore the stripes! It will just peel again and all your work will be for nothing. In my experience, the smooth leather type holds up well. So only deep cleaning is needed. ••• COMFORT: For me they're very comfortable. The leather molds to your feet. But then I'm a special case. I don't like "plushy" bouncy shoes. I grew up playing and running around barefoot or on flipflops. I also went through elementary and highschool back when sports shoes looked like kindof the converse style shoes or if you had money you bought samba-like shoes. Those shoes are not considered "sports shoes" or "running shoes" by many people today. I also prefer having ground feel, so thin soles is something I look for. I actually removed the original Onitsuka insoles cuz they're too plushy for me and I don't like arch support on shoes. I find that arch support makes my feet "tired" and gives me pain. Like it weakens or compromises my feet. But then maybe that's just a me problem. So "comfortable" might be different for you. CONS: What I don't like are those iconic Onitsuka stripes, they're made of fake leather! Actually in general I hate those fake synthetic materials pretending to be leather. They crack and peel no amount of good maintenance can prevent it from happening. Once it starts you can do nothing. If I'm going to buy new shoes, I'll get Mexico 66 in all leather version (including the stripes), or the one without the stripes just holes in the pattern of the stripes, or the Onitsuka Serrano CL all leather version it doesn't have those annoying stripes. They're more expensive but it gets rid of the pleather stuff. And in my experience Onitsuka uses good leather on their shoes. ••• There you have it. I hope someone finds this useful. I know I had a hard time finding real info and review when I was looking for a "buy it for life" shoes. Most people these days want fashion and most "reviewers" just try to sell you so they can get commissions. EDIT: Corrected grammar. Added repairability and restoration part. submitted by /u/ponglizardo to r/BuyItForLife [link] [comments]

What’s good fam? Back again with another in hand review, and this time we’re checking out the AJ3 White Cement Reimagined (LJR) from JMDY. As always, this review is based on my personal pair. This is for informational purposes only. ⸻ The Sneakers: In hand, these AJ3 White Cement Reimagined from LJR feel immediately premium. The white leather is the first thing that stands out. The leather is soft, naturally tumbled, and has that smooth yet structured feel. I don’t have retail personally but these appear to line up well with retail pairs shown online. LJR always executes in their craftsmanship. The toe shape has a nice rounded slope without looking bulky, boxy or flattened, which is one of the key areas I always check on AJ3s. The elephant print look well executed, with a nice pattern size and spacing that matches retail references. I’ve noticed most EP is random from pair to pair. On my pair one shoe’s toe EP is a slightly darker than the other but this doesn’t bother me at all. Color on the elephant print sits in that correct medium grey tone, and the edges seem to transition cleanly into the white leather panels. The midsole looks properly aged with an off white tint. The visible Air unit is clear and properly seated. The rest of the details across the shoe come together nicely. The red eyelets pop against the white upper, the tongue shape and padding feel right. The leather is soft and nice. The Jumpman embroidery on the tongue is sharp and well centered. Around the heel, the Nike Air logo placement and proportions look correct, and the heel cup shape mirrors what’s seen on retail photos. Even the insoles and interior finishing feel solid, with no glue mess or rough edges. Overall, in hand these feel like a very strong LJR showing. Leather quality is excellent, shape is dialed in, and the classic White Cement details all land where they should. Nothing jumps out as off IMO, and they carry a “ feel right in hand” feel that good batches have. Very satisfied with this pair. 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾 🟢 W2C: JMDY ⚫️ Price: 470 CNY + Shipping ⚫️ WhatsApp: +86 18159415235 🟢 Agent Link: https://shop1649953402.v.weidian.com/item.html?itemID=7448749058&spider\\\_token=0abf ⚫️ WeChat: JMDYS05 ⚫️ Website: https://jmdy.shop/ ⚫️ JMDY Discord: https://discord.gg/gqWSmXQpFK) ⚫️ Sneakers and Clothes Yupoo: https://tianjin-no1.x.yupoo.(REMOVE)com ⸻ The Customer Service Experience: These came directly from JMDY and the process was straightforward from start to finish. Communication was clear, QC was provided quickly and smoothly, and the shipping quick, arriving within a week. The pair arrived well packaged and protected, with the box and shoes in good condition. Everything felt clean, professional, and easy throughout the order. Another solid experience working with JMDY 💪🏾💪🏾. submitted by /u/GreetingzEarthling to r/RepsneakersDogs [link] [comments]

I recently bought a cheap pair of La Sportiva Solutions from someone on FB marketplace. He said they hadn’t been worn much, but were originally a display pair. One of the shoes apparently got a lot of sun (?) and wound up having lots of these fairly deep cracks in the rand. I’m worried that if I don’t fix them, the rand will snap and the shoes will be unusable. Wondering if anyone has experience with fixing cracks such as these. Everything I’ve seen so far regarding shoe glue has to do with glueing seems or repairing the sole. I would guess that a strong but flexible glue or rubber cement will be needed. Thanks! submitted by /u/FairRecommendation4 to r/climbingshoes [link] [comments]

BEACHES AND BUNIONS Dunlop Athletic In 1832, inventor Walt Webster patented a process by which rubber soles could be attached to shoes, boots, and other footwear. With the Industrial Revolution and the concept of the working week came the idea of the “weekend”—two days off work and time for “leisure.” In Victorian England, what would one do? Go to the beach, of course! But what should one wear? Why, beach shoes of course! Ladies Beaching Early 20th Century By the 1850s, the Liverpool Rubber Company (later bought out by John Dunlop) had popularized these early “sand shoes.” And while developed for beachwear they soon became popular for their comfort, non-slip properties, and beyond just hiding victorian ladies’ toes from curious gentlemen. Ask any British Gen X about these! By the 1880s in England, these practical shoes were nicknamed “plimsolls”—thanks to the rubber seal lines resembling the Plimsoll line on a ship’s hull. They offered a simple, affordable solution to an enduring problem. Traditional leather-soled sports shoes worked well in perfect conditions but were expensive and lacked versatility. Any British child of the 60s/70s can tell you that this style never left..being issued for school gym classes right up until the early 1980s DAPS, FELONIES, AND SNEAKING AROUND The idea was economical: glue a canvas upper to a vulcanized rubber sole. While early plimsolls lacked polish, they were practical, fast-drying, and accessible to all ages. By the early 1890s, British plimsolls had become popular enough in the U.S. to inspire domestic production. At six dollars a pair, they were too costly for the average person but quickly found favor with the leisure class, who dubbed them “croquet sandals.” The quiet, soft soles earned them other names: “felonies” and “sneakers.” In Britain, they became known as DAPS, from the factory name Dunlop Athletic Plimsolls. The First Keds - \"Sport\" Shoe By 1913, more than 30 competing plimsoll brands existed in the U.S. alone. These were eventually consolidated into one large firm in 1917. The company originally wanted to name the brand Peds (Latin for “foot”)—but that name was taken. So, the new firm was named… Keds. THIS SPORTING LIFE Keds' original design, the Champion, may have been the first mass-marketed canvas-top shoe in 1916, looking more like a comfortable walking boot it was a little far from the sports shoe we know. Late 1940s Hood for Basket Ball However, The Hood Rubber Company, founded in 1896 (a pioneer in canvas and rubber footwear), introduced the first basketball sneaker in 1914. Hood was eventually acquired by B.F. Goodrich in 1929. Hood continued to produce basket ball and tennis shoes right through the 1960s. Recently Mitchell and Ness have tried (and failed?) to relaunch Hood as a sports nostalgia shoe. Goodrich along side his acquisition of Hood launched The Posture Foundation—which became the famous P.F. Flyers for baseball. Early Hood PF Flyers The Converse All Star, designed for basketball, debuted in 1917, offering a unique diamond-patterned tread for “superior traction.” In 1920, Chuck Taylor, a basketball player, had his signature added to the shoe's ankle patch, solidifying the “Chuck Taylor All Star” name. Early Converse Chucks ANYONE FOR TENNIS? Back in Britain, various companies also produced these simple shoes but in tennis not basketball styles. Dunlop launched the Green Flash model in 1929, which quickly became the shoe of choice for elite tennis players and was later endorsed by Fred Perry...and could still be found right up until the early 2000s. Green Flash 1999 Superga in Italy began producing rubber boots in 1911, and by 1925 was making its iconic tennis shoe, the 2750. In France, Spring Court launched its own “tennis shoe”—the G2—featuring a rubber sole with built-in ventilation channels for improved airflow. Spring Court WAR-TIME CANVAS As the Second World War loomed, there was little time for sport. But once again, the U.S. Navy saw the utility (and low production cost) of canvas deck shoes. Many recruits repurposed their high school Converse, Keds, or PFs for sea duty, but the stripped-down ecru-and-black deck shoe became standard issue for new sailors. Unbranded but possibly civilian high tops Other models were introduced for the USMC and for physical training. Converse produced high-top training shoes, and Sperry provided deck shoes. The U.S. Rubber Co., Ball Brand, Hood, and Keds all contributed to the war effort. Note that the deck shoe has no toe cap, while the training shoe often had a ridge or sculpted toe cap. Hood's wide ranging war efforts Canvas and rubber boots continued to be issued into the 1970s and through the Vietnam War, evolving into jungle boots. Navy Rating Standard Kit 1940s THE DANGERS OF YOUTH Many returning sailors kept their canvas shoes stuffed in the bottoms of kit bags, wearing them again in civilian life. Cheap to produce and easy to purchase, they appealed to a newly freedom-loving youth. Ivy Style Late 50s The “teenager” had arrived. In the early 1950s, this emerging counterculture embraced sneakers for the same reasons they loved denim. Sneakers were cheap, low-maintenance, and a defiant break from adult convention. Marlon Brando and James Dean made them iconic on screen. Jimmy in Canvas As public school dress codes relaxed in the late 1950s, many parents dressed their kids in Keds and Converse for practical reasons. Most Baby Boomers grew up with athletic shoes as acceptable casual wear... 80s and 90s Nostalgia for this period perpetuated with movies like The Sand Lot, Stand By Me and The Outsiders all featuring characters wearing these type of shoes. The Outsiders 1983 SKATERS, HIPPIES, AND HIPSTERS In Massachusetts in 1965, the Randolph Company had a “far out” idea: create and market the first skate-specific sneaker, the Randy 720. But they were too early. Vans arrived with the #44 Deck Shoe (now the Authentic), which quickly gained popularity among Southern California skateboarders. In 1976, skaters Tony Alva and Stacy Peralta helped design the Era, with padded collars and color options—securing Vans’ place in skateboarding culture. Flat for the Flat Outside of skating, by the 1970s, perhaps only the Converse All Star survived. John Lennon wore Spring Courts on his wedding day, but punk cemented the look. The Ramones and Sex Pistols wore Converse as a rebellion against rock ’n’ roll boomers and jock culture. Best worn trashed. Lennon in Spring Court BUYING AN ICON The white canvas sneaker never really left. Whether for tennis, skateboarding, Ivy style, boating, military, or music—the style persists. Simple, cheap, and easy. Toe cap or not, high or low top. You can drop $250 on a Japanese repro of a USN deck shoe, or go tennis classic with my personal Euro favorite, the Spring Court—or even the Korean East Pacific Trade oversized gum-sole Dive. EPT - DIVE WR Top Picks: Spring Court – White/White G2 — ~$110 PF Flyers – Sandlot Center Hi — ~$90 East Pacific Trade – Dive WR Sole — ~$130 Real McCoys – USN Deck Shoe — ~$250 US Rubber Co. – Lot 10 Deck Shoe — ~$140 North Sea Clothing – Marine Type 2 Deck — ~$140 Honorable mentions: Palladium, SeeVees, PRAS and Moonstar. My secret is the "Repro WW2 British Training Plimsoll in Brown and Black" - $35! Of course, you can always just grab some Converse for that classic (if no longer cheap) option. Vintage pairs of all types are hard to find—rubber degrades. Eventually, like my tennis game, they crumble. submitted by /u/garage_artists to r/HeritageWear [link] [comments]

Hey guys! Just wanted to share my latest shoes Haul review Jordan 4 White cement: Link: https://shop1850717273.v.weidian.com/item.html?itemID=7338132669 1. Design: The design looks exact to retail. The shoes is clean. The tag is exactly how it should be and the Jumpman is placed correctly Materials: Materials feel good . The leather is soft. done. No excess glue or uneven stitching visible with eyes Comfort & Fit: Easily one of the most comfortable pairs I own. True to size and fit is perfect. You could half size up if you want more space Air force One White : Link: https://shop1850717273.v.weidian.com/item.html?itemID=7238228010 Design: For the price, they’re basically identical to retail. Shape is spot on, stitching is clean, and overall they even look better than some real pairs I’ve seen in stores. Very impressed. Comfort & Fit: Go with your true size. I wouldn’t recommend sizing up — they fit just right as they are. submitted by /u/Repheadclothes to r/FashionReps [link] [comments]

Hi! Has anyone tried Barge SuperStik Cement or Tree Frog Cobbler Glue for shoe repairs? I have some sole separation on my Adidas Adios Pro 3 and saw those two come up a lot. Do they work? Any better options in the Philippines? Thanks! submitted by /u/Poor_Mofo to r/PHRunners [link] [comments]

Hi! Has anyone tried Barge SuperStik Cement or Tree Frog Cobbler Glue for shoe repairs? I have some sole separation on my Adidas Adios Pro 3 and saw those two come up a lot. Do they work? Any better options in the Philippines? Thanks! submitted by /u/Poor_Mofo to r/Cebu [link] [comments]

Imgur Album     Intro   I bought my first pair of Russell Moccasins in April 2024. For someone who generally dislikes overbuilt footwear, high heels and arches, the look of most faux-moc toes—and honestly, just having stuff on my feet at all—I was surprised to find myself drawn to RM. Their construction style and overall design philosophy caught my attention. Functionally, they’re purpose-built and excellent in the field—something I respect, even if it’s not usually my style. But more than anything, I was pulled in by the technical challenge: the specific, purposeful, and meticulous methodology behind their build. There’s exceedingly little info on true moccasin construction online, and no technical documentation on how RM builds their boots. It simply doesn’t exist. They don’t share anything other than what's on social media. I’ve never seen another company replicate this particular construction method—or any individual attempt it either So I took it as a challenge. I started self-driven hands-on learning in October 2024. I can expand more if requested, but here are my homemade PH-style boots. Piecing together every aspect—from measurement and patterning specifics to construction order and technique—took a solid chunk of time. But I feel confident in saying I did a fairly competent job. Please correct me if I’m wrong, but I think I’m the first person I’ve seen replicate this entire construction process as closely to their shop method as possible.   Materials   Last Munson Sizes 7EE and 7.5EE You need your regular size for the main vamp, and a half-size up for the molded sole. One reason these boots are expensive. Leather Law Tanning Big Horn Shrunken Bison – Peanut colorway 2mm for main vamp 6-8oz (unsplit from factory) for apron and heel stay 1.75mm for tongue, facings, and collar All splitting done by Rocky Mountain Leather. I live 45 min north of them, which was very convenient Canvas Halley Stevensons 18oz Hybrid Waxed Canvas Thread Vinymo MBT #5 – mostly CLSP sewn, hand-stitched in various parts Colorway #61 Collar Foam (Can't find link, product seemingly not currently available) KFF Urethane foam – soft Absolutely planning something different for the next pair Midsole Vibram 7500 midsole Heel Foam 10mm E700 High-Density EVA from Avetco Sanded down to 8mm Outsole Vibram 360 Force Eyelets 5.3mm Antique Brass Speed Hooks ½" Antique Brass Insole SoleFlex Crepe 3mm May change for the next pair Kangaroo leather topper Glue Barge – the kind you really shouldn’t use in a confined space Hirschkleber – used for bonding the molded sole to the main vamp May be unnecessary; some makers use Barge even while both surfaces are still wet   I tried to match materials as closely as possible. The leather is identical, aside from possible differences in splitting. Canvas isn’t the same, but Halley Stevensons is well-regarded. I don’t know what thread RM uses, but the Vinymo looks close enough. I might try a thinner thread in the future, but I currently like the chunky, round look. The midsole might be the same—hard to say. Foam also seems like a match, but I can’t confirm. The outsole is the same, just a different colorway. Eyelets and speed hooks appear identical. I got mine from Weaver, who sources from Trendware. Pretty sure RM does too.   Issues / Challenges   Patterning was the biggest early challenge. Since I was learning cordwaining in general while also reverse-engineering a boot style with no reference material, I had to figure out a LOT from scratch. I also had to spend plenty of trying to learn how to best use my CLSP. It really can get a lot done, but you have to be competent at using it. It’s not a machine that will baby you. But it also won’t ever be able to compete with a nice motorized machine. Lasting the boots wasn’t especially difficult. I’d always thought I could do it given the right tools—and I did. Getting the apron overlap stitch done wasn’t technically hard, but making it look nice IS hard. It’s easy to make it look crooked or funky. Done well enough, the flaws disappear at a distance—but I know they’re there. The biggest construction issue was the side sections—where the facings, tongue bottom, apron, and vamp all meet. I sewed the interlock stitch wrong, which caused the whole area to warp and bulk out in a weird way. You can see how they bow and look awkward, which unfortunately affects fit.   Conclusion   All things considered, these turned out better than expected. Without tooting my big horn too much, I think I did a pretty good job mimicking Russell. There are plenty of small mistakes and imperfections. And there are certain things I’ll never be able to replicate—like their sewing machines, which I’ll probably never own. I may not know the exact specs of every single product that goes into their boots. But overall? I think these are damn close to what RM offers. I’ve already started a second pair for my brother, and will continue to try new things. I see myself revisiting this exact setup when I feel my skills have improved even more. Please ask any questions you may have, I have loads of information and thoughts I have not yet put into words. Thank you!     EDIT: /u/kemitchell pointed out that RM shares more info on their boots than a lot of companies to, and they're correct in this. There's no reason for them to share every single info on the technicalities of their construction, but what they do share was instrumental in helping me. I am not sure I could have made it without what I was able to gather. That being said, my reason for making the point was to indicate how little information there is about true-moccasin construction basically anywhere online. Top-down construction knowledge is abundant, but moccasin construction is decidedly less-so. I did not intend to indicate RM does anything wrong by not sharing. submitted by /u/yugotprblms to r/goodyearwelt [link] [comments]

quality is pretty bad. leather and stitching specifically. the shoes are already creased, haven’t even worn them out of the house yet just inside to try and break them in. there are loose stitches at the bottom of the tongue where it meets the cage, and wavy stitching at the top of the tongue where it meets the black sock liner. there’s extra glue along the mid sole. the more i look at them the worse it gets and for being one of the more expensive retail Jordans i think they definitely should have done better. and to top it all off, they’re pretty uncomfortable. 11.5 is my normal size but was too big so i went with size 11. they’re crushing my pinky toes and hurting the balls of my feet. they just look so damn good i cant resist wearing them even if its only for a couple hours at a time. what’s your experience with the white cement 4s? submitted by /u/No-Volume7464 to r/Sneakers [link] [comments]

Hello first of all I just joined recently so hi to all of you! So is shoe glue viable for the Eva foam? Recently I’ve seen a lot of people use shoe glue instead of contact cement and I wanted to try it. I used contact cement but the smell, and the aftermath of ventilating the room is kind of a troublesome work. So I wanted to see other alternatives and shoe glue was perfect for it since there was less smell. Anyway I’m using shoe glue and it’s working perfectly, but I’m not sure about the longterm performance compared to contact cement. Does anyone have any experience with comparing these two? submitted by /u/Arpegio22 to r/CosplayHelp [link] [comments]

What's a good long-lasting glue for repairing trail running shoes? Specifically, for glueing a sole and midsole that are starting to separate from the front of the upper fabric? submitted by /u/wildswalker to r/Ultralight [link] [comments]

So I cobble as a hobbyist and one of my major sources for finding things to work on is big box stores (Wal-Mart) or a chinese shipping website. A lot of people post on reddit as a "pro-tip buy yourself a really good pair of shoes because they'll last longer" but it doesn't seem like many people know how to go upon repairing or reinforcing their shoes. It's a thousand times more simple than any sort of sewing or needlework - so you won't need much. A thing I stumbled upon is that so many shoes come from the same form. So the thing that really sets converse apart from some generic canvas shoe is slight alterations to the design and what it's reinforced with. Most cheap shoes rip and break very easily because they are reinforced with cardboard or some sort of thin paper trash shoved between the insole and outsole. A name-brand will use higher quality glue and material but it comes down to all the same shit. Shoe-Glue, E600, 1-2-3 Primer, and Contact Cement is all you really need to make a cheap weak shoe into one that will last ten times longer. Simply pull out the insole of the shoe and replace what's underneath it with a material that is thin (if you have thick outsoles) or thick (if you have thin outsoles). You can apply a thin layer of 1-2-3 Primer first to create a surface on the outsole (which will probably be rubber) for the glue to adhere to, otherwise, use contact cement. Once you replace this cheap in-between layer your shoe is guarantee to last way longer, it might also change the difference between your feet bouncing and your feet stomping when you walk. Your shoes are likely to fall apart in the back heel or front cap before anything else, the next thing would be the outsole coming off. All these problems exist in a normal expensive shoe, but are time delayed because of the quality of material to absorb shock. Running shoes use nylon straps or straight up silicone (but things get weird when two polymers start rubbing against each other, so running shoes will usually have a foam sole). I know this isn't really a total tutorial, I can make one if requested since I have plenty of old canvas shoes sitting around. I just wanted to share this advice since I having taken up cobbling I realized this hobby is basically dead to anyone who doesn't make leather boots for dudes who get overly hyped about beard cream. But it's not hard! - don't fret, don't be scared, it's not rocket science and is actually a lot easier than repairing your clothing. You don't need to get a Dr. Scholls as you can make your own customized soles with EVA foam and a traced foot. Get out there and do it. You can always buy a "good pair of boots that will last" - but you can easily turn any pair of boots into one's that will last as well, slather up the shellac my dudes. submitted by /u/291837120 to r/Frugal [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/tehoaislimau5556 to r/gravelcycling [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Ge0basket to r/AskACobbler [link] [comments]

Hello, I want to attempt a few designs with fabric on air forces. Do you guys know how durable cement glue is generally speaking? The idea is to not worry about regular wear and tear. I would hate for it to fall off. submitted by /u/Steadyarcher to r/Customsneakers [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Evunee to r/Shoes [link] [comments]

Hi all, Tldr: looking for product or diy recommendations to create stronger summer dog shoes. My recently adopted pup is 8 years old and around 55 lbs (probably a catahoula + boxer + Pitt + hound mix of some kind) - unfortunately her previous owners didn't take great care of her and she has pretty awful arthritis in her back legs and a variety of associated mobility issues. I've seen the vet on this as recently as two weeks ago, who has confirmed that our only real options at this point are pain management, and to start we've been doing daily doses of joint supplements. But man does she love walks and running anyway! The problem is that because of her mobility issues, she will excessively drag her back legs to the point where she files her nails down to the quick until and past it bleeding- much beyond what is normal for other dogs. While I saw some posts on a similar topic, they weren't about dogs with disabilities, and answers mainly encouraged keeping nails short so the quick would stay low - her quick is already pretty low so unfortunately I don't think that's the answer for us. Instead, I've been equipping her with a pair of dog booties on her back paws. We also try to keep to grass rather than pavement where possible. Still, she manages to rip them through (always on the front of the paw seam, from the outside) in about two weeks. I've tried both Muttluks and Ultra Paws. There has to be a good option for repairing them or keeping them in tact longer. I've wondered if maybe I could stitch on a fabric that would be stronger against the pavement dragging to the front of the boots, or glue a foam of some kind? She loves walking so much I don't think any kind of silly boot could stop her. Wondering if anyone else here has found a reliable solution to this problem yet - cheers and thank you. submitted by /u/galaxygnome to r/dogs [link] [comments]

Introduction The last version of the Shoe Guide was written by jdbee in 2012, so I figured that it’s probably about time that it got updated. Again, this will not cover boots as that is a separate guide. This was written using the previous version as a template for content, and /u/sconleye’s light jackets guide as a formatting guide. The information has been condensed to make the guide more beginner friendly. Like the outerwear guide, images will be listed in an imgur album so that if the item is suddenly removed from a store, there will still be an image left. Retail prices will be listed below, but you can consult the Beginner’s Guide to Buying Expensive Clothes for Less, also written by /u/sconleye for advice. As far as the shoe models chosen for this post, I went for safe, non-offensive models, as this is meant to be a beginner’s guide, and it is best to keep it relatively simple. This is meant to be a starting point, and is by no means a one-stop shop guide for shoes. Huge thanks to /u/sconleye and /u/molloy_the_burglar for taking a look and helping with editing. I. Shoe Sizing Shoes of all kinds are built on a foot-shaped form called a last. These are usually made of wood or resin, and vary widely in length and width, even in the same tagged size. As such, your Brannock size is extremely important to know, as it serves as a reference point when figuring out sizing information, so that you are not comparing Converse or sneaker sizes with other users. Here is a video outlining how to size yourself on a brannock device. Almost all stores with a men’s shoe department will have one of these, and it is very important to get the length and width of both of your feet. People’s feet are split-sized relatively frequently, and this can greatly affect the ease with which you can purchase properly fitting footwear. II. Sneakers Recommended Colors: White, Black, Navy, Gray Best to keep things relatively understated and minimal, as you run the risk of looking juvenile otherwise. A good rule of thumb would be to have no more than two colors, and minimal branding. All of these options are low tops, as they are easier to work with proportionally. Vans Authentic $50 Converse Chuck Taylor 70s $80 Greats Royale $159 Maison Margiela Replica Trainers $369 Common Projects Achilles $410 III. Casual/In-between Shoes Disclaimer: From this point forward, the shoes recommended will be leather shoes, and as such, you do want to keep in mind that with leather shoes more than most, you get what you pay for. Relatively casual non-sneaker shoes that can be worn with jeans, and chinos. These would be great for informal to casual end of business casual occasions. Colors and materials: Neutral and earth-toned smooth leather or suede Loafers Sebago Penny Loafer $140 Quoddy $325 Alden Leisure Handsewn $549 Bluchers/Derbies JCrew Kenton Suede Bucks $198 Grant Stone Bluchers $320 Alden Dover $545 Handsewns This category includes blucher mocs, canoe mocs, camp mocs, and boat shoes. These are definitely more casual than the previous two shoes, and may look out of place in a business casual environment. Each of the following brands also makes some variation of each model. LL Bean Camp Moc $89 LL Bean Signature Jackman Blucher Moc $99 Quoddy Blucher Moc $275 IV. Dress Shoes There are so many options for men’s dress shoes, spanning from cheap to expensive, suede to exotic, and casual to formal. Disclaimer: It would be incredibly difficult to cover the entire breadth of what is offered, and for simplicity’s sake, I will be painting this information in very general and broad strokes. Good dress shoes are generally more expensive than sneakers and casual shoes, but they will last a long time with proper care. Additionally, a good shoe is built on a leather insole, which will mold to your foot over time, and become extremely comfortable, given that the shoe fits properly. Generally, these shoes will be made using a stitched construction, which includes goodyear welt, blake stitch, blake/rapid, stitchdown, handsewn, and some other less common construction methods. Most shoemakers will have many different lasts in a variety of toe shapes and widths, which will greatly affect your sizing. It is best to try shoes on yourself, but there is also the Manufacturer Last Sizing Thread on GYW, where users post their Brannock size, along with what sizes they wear in a variety of shoe lasts. For more in-depth information, you can always visit /r/goodyearwelt, which has a wonderful sidebar chock full of information. Construction method: Shoes made with a stitched construction can be resoled, which means that a well cared for pair of shoes can last for many many years. Modern glue is quite good, but using a cemented construction is usually a cost-saving measure, which would also be reflected in the shoe’s leather quality and durability. As a general rule of thumb, stick to goodyear welted, blake, or blake/rapid construction shoes for your dress shoes. Any decent shoemaker should disclose the method used. Style: Derbies/bluchers have open lacing, while oxfords/balmorals have closed lacing. Shoes with closed lacing are a lot more formal, and should generally be reserved for wear with suits. You will also have single monks, and double monks, which were worn with suits when #menswear was popular, but it’d be best to keep those for less formal wear. Leather: You want full grain leather, as it will age better than corrected grain leathers, which are coated with plastic that will crack over time. Generally, smooth leathers are more formal than suedes. Fine-grained calf would be most formal, while suede, grained leathers, and shell cordovan would fall somewhere below that. Broguing: Broguing style is described with: full, semi, and quarter. There are also plain captoes, and plain toes. Incidentally, this is also the order from least formal to most formal. Color: Once again, very broad strokes here. Black is pretty formal, lighter shades of brown are more casual, and generally darker browns are pretty versatile. Soles: For formal shoes, stick to single leather soles, and generally, the thicker and chunkier the sole, the more casual it is. Rubber soles can work, but it’d definitely make the shoe more casual. Shoemaker Price Tiers: These are just a few of the very many shoemakers out there, and it is very important to do your research with regards to style, sizing, and the shoemaker itself before deciding on a brand and model. The brands I’ve decided to mention are either an exceptional value, or very easy to get sized on in person. Sub-$300: Allen Edmonds Shoe Bank: Stocks Allen Edmonds’ factory seconds, which are pairs that have cosmetic blemishes that do not affect fit, comfort, or durability of the shoe. They often run sales, and you can order and get sized at an Allen Edmonds store. Meermin: Good bang for the buck on goodyear welted shoes. They offer a variety of models on more european (sleeker) lasts. They also offer their Linea Maestro line, which has more premium leathers. Their shoes are lasted in China, and finished in Spain. $300-$500: Allen Edmonds: Not much to say here. You can get sized in person, and you can inspect the shoe before buying to make sure that you’re happy with your purchase. Their customer service is also quite good. Carmina Shoemaker: Fantastic mid-level shoemaker that offers a robust catalog of models in a variety of leathers. All of their shoes are produced from start to finish in Spain, and they also have a store opening up in June 2017 in New York City, where you can get sized in person. $500+: Alden: There are a variety of stockists, and they make a very classically American shoe. Their models span from loafers to boots in a variety of shades of suede, calf, chromexcel, and shell cordovan. V. Shoe Care and Storage There’s a more in-depth guide from GYW here, but the gist of it is: 1) Let your shoes air out for 24 hrs between wears. 2) Put wooden shoe trees in them when they’re not being worn. 3) For your leather shoes, get a mild conditioner like Lexol, and apply lightly with a cloth every few months, or when the leather feels dry. 4) Brush your shoes every once in a while. 5) If your shoes get wet, allow it to air dry. Do not apply direct heat, as this will damage the shoe. If your leather-soled shoes get wet, stuff them with newspaper, and dry them on their sides. If the sole of your welted shoe is worn through, and needs a resole, you can either inquire with the shoemaker as to whether or not they can recraft or resole the shoe for you, or you can look into finding a local cobbler. Definitely ask the cobbler what they are planning to do when they resole your shoe so you can figure out if they know what they are doing. Again, this guide is meant to be a beginner’s resource, so if your favorite style or brand is not represented here, don’t fret. Thanks for reading. submitted by /u/nipplemonger to r/malefashionadvice [link] [comments]

The sole of one of my shoes has started to peel off. I tried gluing it back with rubber cement, but it didn't hold. The shoes are otherwise perfectly serviceable, so I don't want to throw away the whole pair and spend money on a new pair if mine can be repaired. Presumably, they were held together with glue in the first place, so in theory it should be possible to glue it back. So my question is what kind of glue is used in making shoes, and what is best for repairing them. submitted by /u/Mandeltrot_Set to r/NoStupidQuestions [link] [comments]