Concrete Patio Ideas

I'd love some ideas on how to spruce up our backyard patio. We... and a random slab of concrete that leads to the shed...

... at the bottom of a patio door. I believe it is ...) are not going in. Any ideas on what the proper thing ... not the door. If it's concrete use "pinplugs"

... attachment for drawing ) on my patio concrete that was poured 1st week ... ft is very light brushed concrete and the back 15 ft ... and a 6 ft wide patio door and will get a ... about fiber being in the concrete causing problems with grinding or ... , Rust bullet etc... looking for ideas that would be best for ... slip ) on plain acid etched concrete . Attachments Gazebo drawing.pdf 1....

...] Left the past on the patio, ashes in an ashtray—done. ... and aim at the weak— Ideas that shiver when daylight's read— ..., Rain of colors in the concrete sea. If the rumors run ...

...." I insisted. A lot of ideas were floating around since my ... look, we'll make something more concrete when we get to Gargon." ... console and terminal on the patio, while he occasionally looked over ...

Looking for ideas to cover the ground of my large patio - currently a... ideas? I think I would need to put in a barrier over the concrete... to put in a new patio cover and will be moving ...

Now that I have a 33x12’ concrete patio, I need ideas as to what to do with it. I would love the entire space used because the door is at the end of the house. I’ve saved a lot of pergola ideas, but they don’t include the door. I’ve also looked at screened in and sunroom ideas, but they don’t include the door either. I would appreciate any advice.

TLDR; need some ideas for how to extend roof to cover slightly larger porch slab. Background info: Pictured is an outdoor porch/sunroom. Not sure if it was originally open and closed in later. Regardless, water runoff from roof valley is causing the slab-on-grade to settle and has caused wall of sunroom to rot out. See pics pointing out gaps. Have quote on upsizing to 6" gutters and some other water mitigation improvements on the roof, and intend to add some french drains or something of the sort in the area to move away any water that overflows the gutters. I'm going to open up this entire sunroom by demoing the enclosed walls and turn this into a screened in outdoor porch - as the sunroom is currently unused due to extreme cold in winter and extreme heat in summer. Slab is carpeted inside, walls are drywall on the inside of the windows - so leaving the windows open to combat summer heat isn't really a solution. I've had quotes so far for polyjacking of the pad to bring it back to level ($6k-7k) and a separate company quoted $15k (!!!!!) to lift the slab using helical piers driven to bedrock and then slurry filling the void under the pad. I have a contractor (friend of a friend type thing) that does concrete work (stamped). Ultimately would like to put a hot tub out here in the future and current size of room (9x20) doesn't allow adequate space for a standard ~6 person hot tub (needs ~10x10 to ~12x12 or so). So if I go the route of just demoing and replacing the entire concrete slab - I'd consider a slab that's about 4ft wider than the current slab (which would be in the same range as polyjacking & would allow me to ensure compaction under the slab instead of just bandaiding it with polyjacking). This would require I remove the rhododendron that I love - but that's a different problem. The real conundrum I'm having is if I go with a ~4ft wider slab, how the heck to extend the roof to cover it. Because this area has two roof pitches coming together and the big curved bay window from the living room - I'm having a hard time envisioning a realistic way of extending the roof. Anyone have any ideas? submitted by /u/geekinterests to r/homeimprovementideas [link] [comments]

I'm having a concrete patio installed in our backyard. The HVAC condenser needs to be moved. Seems this would require: Properly evacuate the refrigerant (R-410A) Disconnect Move (I can do this) About 10 days later: Reconnect Recharge with same amount and same type of refrigerant If it matters, it's a 4-ton system. Very easy to access all connections. What's a reasonable cost for steps 1, 2 and (10 days later) 1, 2? I feel like I should have a contract, in writing, on what's expected. I don't want steps 1 and 2 done, and then never see the AC tech again for the remaining steps. Also, we're headed into summer, so this will likely jack up the cost. I considered the DIY approach with a refrigerant vacuum pump kit from Amazon. Though I'm technically pretty skilled, I'm worried I'd mess things up and have a much bigger expense on my hands. submitted by /u/Rustpit to r/HomeImprovement [link] [comments]

I’ve lived in my house for a few years now and I’m starting to tackle landscaping and outside projects. What can I do with this patio? It’s uneven and water pools in the center. I’m considering using a self-leveling concrete and then tiling over it. Then I may install a pergola structure to provide some shade. is this a reasonable plan? https://imgur.com/a/gF1COhH submitted by /u/ProfessionalHefty349 to r/HomeImprovement [link] [comments]

Hi everyone! Looking for some advice as we plan a patio project with a landscaper this season. We’re in New England and will be hiring a contractor for the work, but we want to go in informed about design choices and materials, especially to keep things looking great while staying budget friendly. Would love input from anyone who’s done this recently: • What type of patio material did you go with (pavers, bluestone, concrete, gravel, etc.) • What held up best through New England weather (freeze thaw, drainage, shifting) • Any materials or designs that gave a high end look without a high end price • Rough cost ranges you saw (per sq ft) for different materials and labor • Anything your landscaper suggested that was worth it or not worth it • Any regrets or things you’d do differently We’re aiming for something durable, clean looking, and not overly expensive. Also open to creative ideas like a mix of materials or borders. Appreciate any recommendations, experiences, or photos! submitted by /u/anina101 to r/landscaping [link] [comments]

Hi, I just bought a house with a patio that is concreted small stones. It's not very comfortable to walk on and I was looking for decking solutions. I saw ads for decking tiles that click together. Would that work on my patio? How do the decking tiles attach to the concrete? What are what are my alternative solutions? Context: I know nothing about DIY, I have a dog and children. I just want my patio to be softer to walk on a little bit more cosy. Ideally not costing a fortune but something that will last. I live in Brisbane, Queensland. And the patio is completely covered with minimal sun. submitted by /u/nadzzmonkii18 to r/AusRenovation [link] [comments]

I have concrete pad/patio off of ground level patio door. Patio is level with the door, no step down. This means that the patio finished grade is touching the stucco siding, and even covering the weep screed. I understand there should be a min gap. A sunroom was built on it so water intrusion was never an issue. We don't use the sunroom, so I am in the process of getting quotes to remove sunroom and extend the patio across the yard for more outdoor space, and this issue came up. I would like the grade of new section of patio to be same. No steps from section to section, which would become a trip hazard. But that would mean new section needs to be up against the stucco too, which is bad. Contractors have said I'd have to rip out the existing pad and redo the whole thing, which essentially doubles the cost. Any clever ideas? submitted by /u/thatotherguy321 to r/HomeImprovement [link] [comments]

I live in a 3BR split level. My old wooden back patio was falling apart. I wanted a new covered deck (not a sunroom), but due to various easements on my property, I couldn’t really build one anywhere else. At the same time, I also wanted a walk in closet with laundry inside, and an ensuite bath. My brilliant idea: add on a 2nd story addition with concrete patio underneath. MBR window becomes the door to the new space. It’s not finished yet - but I like the way it’s turning out. Has anyone else done something like this? Am I nuts? Update: - Yes, a structural engineer approved and stamped this - Those are 6x6 posts, not 4x4. - Yes, I’m insulating everything and running heat to it. submitted by /u/IcyNail880 to r/Renovations [link] [comments]

My goal is to have a concrete patio here instead of this old wooden deck. I was thinking the concrete patio could be one of two steeps down from the door. I was thinking of using the concrete come out to the retaining wall and the building the wall higher. I know the tree is there which can be problematic. Can someone provide ideas or suggestions how to make this a reality? There is a slope from the house to the retaining wall Thanks submitted by /u/Dependent-Capital463 to r/hardscape [link] [comments]

After a rough winter in NJ and having to chop a lot of ice my patio concrete took some damage and appears to be wearing away further through rain and walking on it. Any ideas on how to fix / keep from continuing to get worse? submitted by /u/OldKidfromNJ to r/HomeMaintenance [link] [comments]

After a rough winter in NJ and having to chop a lot of ice my patio concrete took some damage and appears to be wearing away further through rain and walking on it. Any ideas on how to fix / keep from continuing ti get worse? submitted by /u/OldKidfromNJ to r/fixit [link] [comments]

https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/2970-Fairmount-Blvd-Cleveland-Heights-OH-44118/33660853_zpid/ Hello All, I was delighted to see the house I personally renovated, 2970 Fairmount Blvd. Cleveland Heights, OH 44118, on your page four months ago. (although my wife just found it yesterday!) After reading through all the comments I wanted to provide many more photographs to you, as I'm very proud of my work, and was thrilled to see mostly positive feedback on the renovations! A huge thank you goes out to Cambria Countertops, as they believed in the revitalization of this home and donated many of the hard surfaces. The countertop end panel on the island was a Cambria first with this home, the detail is now being replicated across the country. Quick story about me, I'm a professional GC, I focus on historic renovations, or historically sensitive renovations, and build new homes. At the time I performed this renovation, I was working for another company. My position there was terminated, largely due to the performance of this project. A major change in the scope of work mid project, wrote my termination on the wall. As with many houses, the deeper we got, the more problems I found. The more areas we added to scope, the longer the list of undisclosed conditions we found became. I'm not the type to leave something unbuttoned and I do not cut the corners, so those problems were fixed...meanwhile the budget was...well...blown...and then blown again. I don't feel comfortable disclosing the amount spent publicly, instead I'll tell you want we did to the house. Since losing my job, I've launched my own company (Ad Astra Homes & Renovations) and am doing well for myself. I have a great relationship with the investors of this project and there are no hard feelings! This house was a delight and the future owner is getting a gem! There are details I would handle differently if it were my home, I would have chosen bolder colors and tile selections. However, I think what was selected was tasteful, authentic to the house, and was installed with beautiful craftsmanship. Here's a list of the work I managed: Starting with the big money, working down to the design decisions and thought process. The utility work and mechanical: New sanitary and storm line from house to street. Upgrade electrical service Cleaning and replacement of the footer tile and drain, then the basement flooded. I went nuclear and put in a B Dry system as back up for the whole house. No problems since! Ripped out whole basement slab under the living room and replaced as it was heaving in the middle. Likely just natural settling, and the existing slab was only 2 inches thick. Full asbestos removal, clean air certificate Replacement of all plumbing, drains and supply lines. New water main from the street, new water supply box. Replacement of all electrical and panels Replaced the radiators with a forced air system, removing radiators, but keeping the nooks to keep the house authentic. These were closed in to keep the benches and create paneled details in place of the screens. Removal of the fountain in the backyard, it was 40k to repair. Stabilization of the decorative pillars in the backyard. We heard a tragedy occurred down the road when two young girls strung a hammock between posts like ours, they fell in. We built a sun shade on top to stabilize them and hopefully prevent a tragedy. Insulated the whole structure, mineral wool, foam, and Fiberglass. The mixture reflected the specific needs of the building. Brickwork and Masonry: Full rebuilt of three chimneys, using identical brick, per original selection sheets. They were photographed, taken down and rebuilt identically. Tuck pointed the whole structure. Rebuilt 3 staircases Repaired slumped patio in rear saving existing sandstone and reusing. Pulled front entry walk up, poured 4 inch concrete and rebedded existing sandstone, including the flower petal detail. Rebuilt of 2 stone retention wall. Rebuilt of 3 window wells. Brand new sidewalk Major structural work at the kitchen to allow the massive new windows. Exterior: Over 20 new windows, mainly due to the existing kitchen having "servant high" windows that started at my forehead and ran up. Servants were not to be seen or heard more than required. All new basement windows in the wells with Azek trim. Restoration by RBX Cleveland Rebuilders Exchange of 2 sets of leaded glass French doors in the Dining Room. New brass banding on existing wood/lead glass windows as required. We kept every window that was able to be restored as the glass was not replaceable. Painting in traditional European Tudor colors New roof deck and Camelot 2 Shingles, which are designed to look like slate. The original roof was cedar shake, but the estimate was a quarter of a million to replace identically. The roof had actual holes when we bought the house, we had to move quickly the water was pouring in. Raised flower beds and landscaping, including the removal of 14 dead trees. Moving to the interior: I fought a war with a designer on the project who wanted to paint all the woodwork. The wood is what makes these houses special! I brought the realtor into the conversation and won the battle to restore all the existing woodwork. To be clear, if it was stained wood when we bought the house, it remained stained wood. I did not instruct nor was anything painted that was not previously. All the existing hardwood floors were restored and refinished. I regret to inform the sub, the floors were previously refinished at least twice, once poorly... There are three areas that are new, but identical in species and width to the original. The kitchen, upstairs back hallway with the built ins, and entry to the former servants quarters. The kitchen had three walls removed, the electrical was under a fur in the floor and so it all had to go. Upstairs hallway was rotted due to active water damage. The servants area previously had pine, I wanted uniformity throughout. We had custom cutter heads made for every piece of trim, so all the trim is identical to the original house. I kept the same species, and as mentioned, kept the same finish, stain or paint. In addition, every fixture, light, door, or piece of trim that was not put back into this house was donated to RBX. If it could live another life, I made sure it had a shot. In fact, another client bought the teal door from the breakfast nook and it is now on a she shed I built for them! Four other doors went to south Ohio, as the same architect designed their house and the doors were identical. The house was stripped to studs in over 90%, we replaced everything short of the foundation, the framing, and reused every material possible. All the plaster details were restored and remain in the house today, as does all of the lead glass. I could go on at great length, but you get the idea. The painting of the boy was claimed by the prior owner, as were all pieces of furniture. The house is not haunted to my knowledge (I gave it the same flair as before!), but one never knows! If this renovation wasn't too your taste, that's OK, if I could do it all again with the knowledge I have today, I would handle a few details differently. Overall, I'm very proud of my work here and hope to restore many more over my career. Thanks for looking at my project! Photos by Aaron Knight Photography - The photos are being degraded by Reddit to fit the max file size. They're quite lovely and clear! submitted by /u/Vegetable-Visual-439 to r/zillowgonewild [link] [comments]

Looking for recommendations on what kinds of companies do something like this, would take specific recs. An idea of what something like that costs. is it hard to diy? Any other better ideas of what to do with this space with minimal budget for now? I'm at least just looking to get the surface all smoothed out and flat. submitted by /u/Jaeyx to r/Connecticut [link] [comments]

Short of ripping it out and replacing, which may not be feasible at the moment, what ideas could I do to not make it look so dated? We’re are in the process of re-doing plantings in the garden beds themselves. Replace the coping? Can I stain the concrete? submitted by /u/Mosstastic_22 to r/ExteriorDesign [link] [comments]

Hi all! My husband and I just purchased a new build home. We have a 14x16 ft space out back that we want to put a stamped concrete patio with a small built in grill/counter/trash can on one side. Before we have someone come out for a quote can anyone give us an idea of how much this may cost? Lancaster county PA, if that helps. MCOL area. Thanks! submitted by /u/Turbulent-Peach9150 to r/HomeImprovement [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Jay_Talking to r/Roofing [link] [comments]

Hi! Not sure if this is the correct subreddit. Please redirect me if so. Has anyone transformed something like this before and can share some ideas/photos for inspiration? submitted by /u/Motor_Win_9758 to r/GardeningUK [link] [comments]

So my father-in-law was out on his patio this morning and found all of these widows in this condition. They were all lying on the concrete together in this state. He relocated them onto a post-it note to get a better look at them and to try to figure out what was going on. He did some research and read something about the possibility of a mud dauber paralyzing them. Does anyone have any ideas what could have happened here and why? He’s never seen a widow spider at his house before, and they were all just lying out in the open, not moving. submitted by /u/mezzmoth to r/spiders [link] [comments]

I'm looking to clean up/update/expand my back patio. I think it's too shallow to do a deck so I'm looking at a concrete patio. The main patio will be easy replacement (where the tile is). I'm curious if anyone has ideas about the existing deck posts I would like the patio under the deck to be the same depth as the deck. I would prefer to dig piers where the posts would land and have the posts on the pad. They are currently on concrete pads at soil level. I just don't see how this is logistically possible. I also don't think pouring up against the the limestone retaining wall will work well. submitted by /u/NightBlade23 to r/DIY [link] [comments]

We are the second owners, so one family lived here since the house was built in 1922. They added on in 1950, but not sure when brick item was built. It has a cement path to it from the cement back patio (part of the addition). I wondered if it was a grill, but there’s no blackening, which I would expect if fire was ever burned on it (also wondering if fire on concrete is even safe?). Any other ideas? Another thread guessed fountain, but the family did not have a very decorative style: pretty bare bones yard and house, so that would be very surprising. submitted by /u/Character-Cicada6461 to r/whatisthisthing [link] [comments]

Hello everyone. Not so much a complaint but just a spot check on build quality. I recently had a stamped concrete patio installed and I wanted to see if everything looked right. I am concerned about the portion where the earth meets the concrete. If this checks out I’m assuming I’ll just need to build that area up and landscape around it. Would love to hear any ideas on how people covered up the bottom portion of a project like this. submitted by /u/dcarona to r/Concrete [link] [comments]

The previous owner of my house laid this large concrete patio and painted it green with latex paint. Unfortunately, he had also painted it several times before that too. I have tried pressure washing several times, and while a lot of small chips come off, the bulk of the paint stays. My next ideas are renting a surface grinder or paying for sandblasting. I have heard that a surface grinder will strip the top layer of concrete and expose aggregate/allow for easier damage. I’ve also heard that sandblasting may be expensive. Let me know your thoughts or if you’ve encountered something like this in the past! I just want a normal looking patio! submitted by /u/hungryfatkid to r/DIY [link] [comments]

Concrete mixers are big, ungainly things. Trying to maneuver them around a crowded jobsite is like trying to play miniature golf with a tennis ball. The biggest problem is, of course, other people, specifically other people's cars. Nobody is going to lug 50 pounds of tools any further than they have to, so if there is an open space near where they want to be, they park there, never mind that it is right next to a sidewalk or directly across from a driveway that a crew is obviously prepping. It only makes things worse when it's done by people who should know better (and done intentionally). So, we're pumping a grout walls in the late afternoon, which already has me in a bit of a mood. Grout jobs tend to be very slow. Each cinder block has two cells, and the crew pumps the grout into those cells filling them all the way to the top of the wall. Grout is really just a term for a weak concrete mix that is pumped super wet. It has to be that wet to make it all the way to the bottom of the wall, otherwise it sticks to the sides of the cinder blocks (or gets caught up on steel reinforcement). There is a lot of stopping and starting, as well as a lot of moving the pump. It all takes time, during which that concrete starts to go off and stiffen up. Things only get worse on a hot day, and the subs will do anything to get more water in the load (heroin addicts looking for a fix have nothing on grout pumpers eyeballing your last 20 gallons). As we move to a new street, we find a line of cars parked all along the side of the street we are working on, just far enough apart to take up as much space as possible without leaving enough room to get the pump in there. Turns out it is another concrete crew setting up to do patios. No problem, we're all concrete guys here, and they know how it is. We ask them to move. That I am writing this post tells you what their response was. It turns out they are waiting for their own pump and mixer to show up, and they intentionally blocked the street because they don't want us to be in their way. Their crew chief tells us we can wait for them to finish and move on, or we can just work around them. It's pretty obvious he expects us to wait. Waiting is, of course, going to make the concrete go off even more and will rack up standby charges for the customer, but trying to work around their cars is going to mean blocking the street and rolling up the hose every time we move (normally the crew just drags/carries it down the sidewalk, but we can't do that with the cars in the way). It would take much longer; depending on when their pump shows up, it might not even save us any time. Still, Todd the pumper rolls his pump right up next to the lead car and feeds his hose out around it. At the best of times, a concrete pump farts and sputters like a nervous chihuahua, flinging small globs of concrete out the hopper. If the driver isn't paying attention and accidentally lets the concrete level get too low, the pump sucks in air. Feeding a concrete pump air is like feeding a hippopotamus Olestra; shit's not pretty, and it gets everywhere. We probably end up moving that pump twice as many times as we have to, but it ensures that every single one of those cars gets to spend some quality time next to the hopper. We finish are done with the job and are washing out the pump when the crew chief (whose own concrete and pump still haven't shown up yet) storms over to complain about all the concrete splatter on their cars. I point out that we told them we'd be pumping there and asked them to move, but they refused. At this point he sees that I have a truck wash bucket strapped to my water tank and demands I let him use it to clean off his car. I tell him that is a terrible idea, smoking lounge on the Hindenburg levels of terrible. The stuff we use is designed to dissolve dried concrete, and it will probably damage his car. The concrete is fresh enough that he can probably just rinse it off with water. He isn't having it. He tells me to stop lying; if it doesn't damage my truck, it won't hurt his car. Besides, he's done this before and knows what he is doing. Now, keeping a concrete mixer clean is a downright Sisyphean task. No matter how hard you try, chutes overflow, pumps splatter, and plants huff cement powder all over your truck. There are a variety of chemicals used to clean off concrete, and most of the modern mixes are relatively safe (for something that can dissolve concrete). Our plants provide a phosphoric acid mix (relatively safe isn't the same as actually safe) to any drivers that need it, so it quite common for there to be a bucket of it stashed somewhere on the truck. Of course, part of what makes these chemicals safer also makes them somewhat less effective. That's why some of us will bring in our own cleaning products to fortify the company mix. These are not the friendly chemicals that will just leave you with a mild chemical burn; my bucket of fun dips down to the good old days of leaded gasoline, asbestos and red dye no. 2. Still, I warned him, and he assured me he knew what he was doing. Besides, he's intentionally being a jackass and expected my sub to pay standby for his convenience. I let him have the bucket. I half expect him to stop when he pulls the lid off. The witch's brew in the bucket smells like Walter White's bathtub. Somehow, the fact that his nose hairs are curling up like a spider in a flame doesn't seem to faze him. Brush goes in the bucket. Brush comes out of the bucket. Brush slams onto the hood of the car with a wet slap. I can only watch in mute horror as the man proceeds to not just clear off the concrete, but bathe his entire hood in hydrochloric acid, rubbing it in to get out all those nasty water spots. It's like watching an orphan unwittingly skin his favorite puppy. None of us stick around long enough to see the final result, but it is already apparent that he has scrubbed off the clear coat and is in the process of etching brush marks in the paint. I don't want to be anywhere near him when that hood dries out. I let him keep the bucket. TL/DR: Another concrete crew tries to preemptively block us from our job so they can do theirs first. We take their suggestion and work around them, splattering all their cars with concrete in the process. The offending crew chief then asks to wash his car with my bucket of hydrochloric acid, and, after warning him that it will eat his paint, I let him. submitted by /u/Hippo_Singularity to r/MaliciousCompliance [link] [comments]