Ev Charger

"charger stops when load too high, starts again when low": can you confirm it could throttle the current instead of just cutting it? I assume you feed it fake values, but what happens with the current if you change them? As stated above, I don't have the modbus cable connected and want to make sure it meets my requirements before I attempt to open it up.

What price options do you have for more capacity? We use 50 to 75kwh per day (due to ev). Looking at 20kw solar panels, 15 to 20kw inverter and battery size more than 30kwh and ev charger? Thanks

... our test cars (petrol and EV), the floating armrests on the... RHS unit gets a wireless charger (Creative+ variant). Two Type-C (including...

...in Malaysia's expanding electric vehicle (EV) market. The launch comes ...its position in the local EV segment, having surpassed 32,...one of the country's best-selling EV models. Updated variants and ...incentives and either a wall charger with installation or a ...as Putrajaya stands firm on EV policy » Click to show ...export requirements for electric vehicle (EV) manufacturers, with Investment, Trade ...

... the very slow transform to EV? Has any one else switched... few years . He put a charger in at the house but ...a charger has been bought to go ...

... you used this for charging EV car right? But you said... going to attempt my 30a charger on a 25a output so...

So as the title says, this breaker is quite a bit warmer than I'd expect. It's a 50 A breaker, and the Chargepoint is set to limit current to 40 A. The vehicle reports charging at about ​9 kW, and I have an Iotawatt CT on that circuit which says it's doing 9200 W. So it's just under 40 A, which is comfortably under 80% of the breaker's rated capacity. ​​​ It felt rather warm to the touch, so I took a picture with an IR camera, showing the breaker is a toasty 75ish degrees C. Wires are tight and it feels firmly seated. I'm leaning toward replacing the breaker. Is that unreasonable? .......... Update - Thank you all for the comments and suggestions. If I can figure out how to update this post with new pictures, I'll post some. I stopped by Lowe's on my way home and bought a shiny new Square-D 50 A breaker. Cut the power to the panel, took out the existing breaker, eyeballed it - looked fine. Nothing cooked, melted, charcoal-ly, or otherwise amiss. Bus bars looked fine. The wires were screwed down tight. I swapped in the new breaker, plugged in the car, and ... it has stayed nice and cool, warmest bit was only 34 C, a full 40 degrees cooler than the old one. Still running ~9000 Watts through it. To answer some of the questions that came up, all in one place: The car charger is a ChargePoint Level 2 240V Smart Home Flex. It is hardwired. The wires are 6g stranded. It's about 100' run from the panel to the garage where the charger is located. There are no junction boxes or splices in between. Just one continuous run of wire from the breaker to the terminals in the charger. The 50A circuit is configured to run at 40A or less. That it is "configured" to do that isn't a guarantee that it can't be broken and/or work improperly, but I think it was worth noting that it was configured properly. There is a consumption transformer on the wire adjacent to the breaker, plugged into an Iotawatt, which reports ~8950-9200 W at any given moment while charging. The Iotawatt also measures and records current - which was right about 38.2 A. If I'm doing the math right that's about 236 V, or about a 1.6% voltage drop, which isn't far off the 1.4% the Southwire voltage drop calculator estimates for 100' of 6g doing 38 amps. The thermal camera is a Topdon TC002C - a small device that plugs into my phone. This is it: https://www.amazon.com/TOPDON-TC002C-Compatible-Resolution-4°F-1022°F/dp/B0F8MZVFBJ ... it claims 512 x 384 Super Resolution (whatever that marketingspeak actually means - upscaling?), 256 x 192 IR Resolution Thermal Imager, -4°F~1022°F Temp Range. About $240. It's not certified by any reputable organization, not calibrated by anything other than my finger touching the object and registering "meh" vs "warm" vs "ouch", and it's probably not worthy of a professional who needs to have confidence in its readings, but I've been impressed by it. As an amateur with a need for finding heat leaks from my house and circuit breakers to cook upon, I like it. It's also very useful for proving that my dog's nose is a LOT colder than the rest of his face. The idea to charge at less than max allowable current, if fast charging isn't needed, is a good one. It probably makes more sense to routinely charge at 20 A for 6 hours overnight, than 40 A so it's done in 3 hours, just to be kind to the battery. I know there are ways to configure charging rate/hours in both the charger and the car, but I haven't read that part of the manual yet. Thanks again! submitted by /u/GreenEggsAndCrack to r/AskElectricians [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/MisterShipWreck to r/VideosAmazing [link] [comments]

Saw this post on the ev uk sub recently and thought it might be useful for anyone on here who is considering moving to an EV for the first time. TLDR: you may not need to buy/install a fast home charger. https://pcpfinancecalculator.co.uk/ev-charger-payback-calculator/ You put in your usual daily miles + elec rates and it will work out if you would benefit from a fast charger, or if you can just get by with a 3 pin. It also gives a payback period for recouping the install cost if you get one. The op could get away with just overnight charging on a granny charger but obviously a fast charger give smore flexibility for unexpected journeys Here's the original post: Reddit post submitted by /u/Majestic_Hippo_6473 to r/CarTalkUK [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/Receding_Hairline23 to r/electricvehicles [link] [comments]

Hi, all. I am searching for EV charger, 11kW, 3 phase, but with ability to switch between 1-phase mode and 3-phase mode. I very much like my go-e charger, that fits all the needs, except 2: it is a bit expensive it does not have integrated cable Due to space constraints, I need the cable to go down from the charger and not to stick out as the go-e does. And, of course, it has to be integrated with HA to allow charging, set current and switch between single- and three-phase operation. Any ideas/recommendations? submitted by /u/sancho_sk to r/homeassistant [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/General_Outcome1878 to r/LinusTechTips [link] [comments]