Fiber Powder

...: 11g plant-based protein and 5g fiber per bar Made with real... colors Made with PBfit peanut powder Specs: Net weight per bar...

... must replace heavy protein and fiber fillers with moisture-retaining ingredients, chemical... a classic combination of baking powder and vinegar, or a bubbly...

... : Micro Ingredients Organic Inulin FOS Fiber Powder, 2.2 lbs Another option... Milk Oligosaccharide (HMO 2'-FL) Prebiotic Fiber Powder The prebiotic 2-FL was used...

... : Micro Ingredients Organic Inulin FOS Fiber Powder, 2.2 lbs 4 -...

..., 1C+ Fiber One cereal, with 2% milk. Often with ~1tbsp of a powder blend... quite satisfying. Vitamin- and mineral-rich "powder" blend -- Every month or ... powder), and hibiscus powder. Vitamin- and mineral-rich, with a bit of fat, protein, fiber and...

... SBR. Now... The barrel. Pistol powder is probably the best option... tuck it under a carbon fiber handguard. It'll get warm but...

... was billet aluminum, then carbon fiber. Around 2010 or so black... other finishes stripped and everything powder coated black. Many wanted everything...

... bought the zarbees regularity support (fiber powder) and would put half a...

... jar carefully in leftover jute fiber, the same rough material that... a packet of heavy cream powder with water, whisked up a...

..., cottage cheese, soy milk, protein powder, tofu, beans, gardein ground “be’f... other sources (plus lots of fiber)! My breakfast the other day... of protein and 10g of fiber!

... for multiple calibers. Proof carbon fiber barrel is threaded for a... target H1000 - 55 gr powder Chrono - 2699 ft/sec...

... Plus Meal Replacement Shake With Fiber (Vanilla) for $55.39 -....89 Original Nutrition Shake With Fiber: 24×8oz Vanilla [amazon.com....69 Plus Nutrition Shake with Fiber: 24×8oz Milk Chocolate [amazon...] - $30.46 Max Protein Powder 3-in-1 Muscle Support: 2×28oz...

... water 2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin powder 1 cup fresh berries (strawberries... boiling. Slowly whisk the gelatin powder into the hot water until... grams Carbohydrates: 3–8 grams Fiber: 1–2 grams (from berries...

... water 2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin powder 1 cup fresh berries (strawberries... boiling. Slowly whisk the gelatin powder into the hot water until... grams Carbohydrates: 3–8 grams Fiber: 1–2 grams (from berries...

... water 2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin powder 1 cup fresh berries (strawberries... boiling. Slowly whisk the gelatin powder into the hot water until... grams Carbohydrates: 3–8 grams Fiber: 1–2 grams (from berries...

... water 2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin powder 1 cup fresh berries (strawberries... boiling. Slowly whisk the gelatin powder into the hot water until... grams Carbohydrates: 3–8 grams Fiber: 1–2 grams (from berries...

... small... $13.97 psyllium husk powder 车前子粉，用... Husk Powder, Certified Organic,... Intestinal Health Excellent Source of Soluble Fiber, Helps... Psyllium is a true dietary fiber, even though it is classified... as a laxative or mucilaginous fiber, and is a convenient way...

... Risk: Juicing removes the natural fiber found in whole beets, leaving... name but it is a powder you mix ) looks orange in ...

Serving size is FOUR capsules so there's only 30 servings in a bottle! And for all that still only 3g of fiber! Both of those are bonkers. But together?? A total joke.

... 3.Twill Carbon Fiber Overlay on Black G10 4.Powder Pink G10...

... the whole lineup: a carbon fiber base, UV- and weather-resistant mount..., CNC laser cut, TIG welded, powder coated, held by four powerful... ready to accept a carbon fiber perimeter deflector we’ve got in...

... of 10 Various parts were powder coated A lot of the... Mtech 1 body kit Carbon fiber hood, splitter and sunroof delete...

...alarming additive in compostable fiber foodware was never the fiber — it was PFAS...“intentionally” qualifier). Better than legacy fiber, not a clean room. Second, ... fiber, and refined cellulose is a legal food additive (E460, the anti-caking powder... But — the anti-mode, because “natural fiber = harmless” is its own trap ...sprayed or resined onto the fiber. NoTree beats legacy fiber on #2, ties EcoTainer...

... for diabetics. Boosts Digestion: High fiber + astringent properties help with diarrhea... nature soothes acidity, while the fiber keeps your gut healthy. During... even dry the seeds into powder for year-round use. You can... even dry the seeds into powder for year-round use. Growing up...

submitted by /u/Anxious-Employer537 to r/Drueandgabe [link] [comments]

The joys of old age... I now take fiber routinely. Which means it has to travel with me in my carry-on, since I don't usually check. As expected, that bottle of fiber got me a secondary screening (explosives check) today. Am I correct to assume this will usually happen when packing powdered fiber? Volume-wise a full bottle is about two cups of powder. The best way I can think of that might help is taking only what I need (typically 10 tbls) and putting it in a baggie so it's flat and less dense. Any ideas to help me avoid a lifetime of secondary screening? submitted by /u/MooseGoose82 to r/tsa [link] [comments]

I have an allergy to nightshades so I am very meticulous when reading through the list of ingredients for anything tomatoes or peppers....when I see giant red flakes in my food I know I can't eat it. Wouldn't have bought this if they actually listed everything in it. Thanks a lot Kevin's! submitted by /u/MilkyBiscuitz to r/mildlyinfuriating [link] [comments]

So the title pretty much says it all, but here’s the full story for anyone who wants to witness one of the most humiliating experiences of my life. About a year ago I met this guy on Hinge. We hit it off immediately and he was genuinely the sweetest guy ever. We had a lot in common, and on our first date he cooked me traditional food I told him I grew up eating. This man spent EIGHT HOURS making broth for noodle soup. And there’s honestly nothing sexier than a man who can cook. After two bottles of wine and great conversation, one thing led to another and I ended up staying over. We both agreed we wanted to see each other again soon. Important detail: we’d only been talking for around 1–2 months and had only met once before this. So second date comes around. Since I lived out of town and it was kind of long distance, I planned on staying a few days. That morning though, I had the worst stomach pain imaginable. I also realized I hadn’t had a proper bowel movement in like 4–5 days. Weirdly, not that unusual for me. (I genuinely don’t understand how some people poop every single day.) Anyway, we spend the whole day together having a great time. Then nighttime comes. We’re cuddling in bed watching a movie when suddenly I start cold sweating and feeling nauseous. Immediately I think: “There is absolutely no way I’m about to take a massive shit in this tiny apartment while this gorgeous man is lying two meters away.” But it keeps getting worse. Eventually he notices I look pale and asks if I’m okay. He tells me not to be shy if I need the bathroom. He was being very sweet about it, so eventually I give in — but I make him put on AirPods first. I sit on that toilet fighting for my life. Nothing. Absolutely NOTHING. It genuinely felt like a concrete brick was lodged in my rectum. I convince myself maybe it just “needs to marinate a little” and go back to bed hoping I can sneak off later during the night. Ten minutes later I’m literally seeing stars. At this point he realizes something is seriously wrong, and I finally admit that I think I’m severely constipated and feel like I might pass out. It’s midnight, everything’s closed, but he finds a 24/7 pharmacy in the other end of town and offers to go get something. Before he leaves, we actually call the emergency room for advice because I’m convinced something inside me is about to rupture. I’m half crying while trying to explain to the nurse that I haven’t pooped in days and now feel like I’m dying. The nurse calmly tells us it’s probably severe constipation, recommends trying over-the-counter remedies first, and says to come in if I start vomiting or the pain gets unbearable. He comes back after biking to the other end of town with fiber packets. Looking back… probably not the best move. Attempt #1: Fiber powder mixed into a giant glass of water. As you can imagine, nothing happens. We briefly consider calling an ambulance before deciding I should just sleep it off. The next day he goes to work while I spend the entire day fighting demons in his apartment. When he comes home that night, he’s stopped by the pharmacy again and asked the employee for “the strongest thing they have.” Attempt #2: The suppositories. At this point I’m standing there questioning every life choice that led me here. I barely know this man, and now I’m considering sticking medicine up my ass in his bathroom. Then he goes: “Do you want me to help you put it in? 🙂” I wish I was joking. Now listen. Under normal circumstances I would NEVER agree to this. But my digestive tract was moments away from exploding and my dignity had already left my body hours ago. So I say yes. This man puts on a glove and inserts the suppository for me. And then… Nothing happens. ARE YOU KIDDING ME??? At this point I’m emotionally broken. That’s when he remembers the final medication. The last resort. Attempt #3: The enema. We open the box and pull out what can only be described as a medieval torture device: an enormous tube attached to a bottle filled with stool-softening liquid. Not a tiny little medical bottle either. This thing looked HUGE to me in that moment — like someone had taken a full-sized sports drink bottle, attached a hose to it, and decided “yeah, this belongs inside a human being.” An enema. I stare at it in complete horror while this poor man continues trying to comfort me through one of the worst moments of my life. Then somehow it gets even more absurd. He sets up a whole little station on the bathroom floor: a towel, a blanket, a pillow and a scented candle for vibes I guess. Like we’re preparing for a spa day instead of a medical emergency. I lie down. He inserts the tube and starts pumping what feels like an entire family-sized Coke bottle into my ass. Then he reads the instructions. Apparently I’m supposed to HOLD IT for 30 minutes. THIRTY MINUTES????? Ten minutes in, I’m sweating. Fifteen minutes in, I’m fighting for my life. And during all of this, he’s sitting there holding one of my hands while timing me on his phone like a supportive midwife. I keep yelling: “I CAN’T HOLD IT ANY LONGER.” And he keeps going: “Just two more minutes, you can do it.” And he had been saying that for the past 25 minutes…. Finally the timer goes off. I shove him out of the bathroom, slam the door shut, and sit down on the toilet. What happened next can only be described as Niagara Falls. The relief was so intense I genuinely think I ascended spiritually for a moment. After what felt like an eternity spent inside that bathroom, I finally gather the courage to leave the bathroom and face him again. I was fully convinced this would be the last time we ever saw each other. Instead, I walk out and he’s just lying there smiling at me. “You good again? :)” Anyway, we’ve now been together for about a year, and somehow this story became one of our funniest memories together. So yeah. Nothing tests a new relationship quite like severe constipation. Edit: anyone have a good idea for an anniversary gift to him?? (It’s kinda tomorrow… and I bought him a starwars Lego head, but any additional ideas???) Would be bonus if it was funny. submitted by /u/erlowkdownbad to r/offmychest [link] [comments]

We have to stop naming plant based products after meat. It’s confusing, borderline misleading in a rush, and it’s getting ridiculous. If it’s made from plants, call it something honest like “Smoked Koji Deli Slices,” “Plant-Based Turkey-Style Slices,” or just “Smoked Koji Slices.” Stop borrowing the names of actual animals when there’s no animal involved. It doesn’t help anyone. People looking for real turkey get annoyed when they bring it home and realize what they bought. And I’m sure a lot of actual vegans don’t appreciate their food constantly being defined by what it’s not, like it can’t stand on its own without pretending to be meat. EDIT FYI: Koji is inoculated (usually) rice is used in with the fermentation process for making miso (which I have made), there is more yeast than Koji, its basically a pinch of salty rice. The word Koji is intended to sound fancy, not a base of the product, IMO similar to how truffle is a pop ingredient in foods. submitted by /u/mothwizzard to r/mildlyinfuriating [link] [comments]

Hey! This is the stuff I like munching on when my calorie budget is reserved for something big and I can't fit usual snacks. It is just the most basic agar jellies made with low calorie base (syrups or flavor drops). For those who don't know: agar-agar is a vegan gelatin alternative, it is entirely soluble fiber, needed in much lesser concentration to achieve comparable level of jelly firmness, and most importantly it sets and is stable at room temperature, meaning you can just have these on your desk all day and they won't melt! Texture is not the same as gelatin, agar jellies are... umm... more stiff and less jiggly? These are incredibly easy to make, no real recipe, basically just follow instructions on package (mix -> boil and that's it!), everything to your taste: Prepare your flavored liquid base (i.e. water with low calorie syrup / sweetener / flavor drops, as long as it is not very acidic it should work!) Dissolve agar-agar powder in it (1-3% by weight depending on desired level of stiffness, i.e. 2g for 100g liquid for 2%) Bring to boil and boil for half a minute or so Pour into candy molds Extract in 10-30 minutes, depending on size/thickness/temperature etc, can speed this up by putting them in the fridge Optionally, let outer layer dry out in open air for a while, toss them with granulated erythritol or dust with powdered erythritol or anything else If you don't have candy molds, use ice cube tray and cut them up later (if desired), or any other dish and cut into smaller pieces. There is a ton of recipes you can find for these online, but recipes often refer to these as "Agar gummies". I don't think they are like gummies at all, they are not chewy, just very stiff jellies. But whatever! This particular bowl consists of four batches: Yellow-ish: 180g Water 20g Low Calorie Passionfruit Syrup 3g Agar Green: 200g Water 3g Agar 5 Drops of Peppermint flavor drops 8 Tablets of tableted sweetener Few drops of green food coloring Red: 200g Water 3g Agar 5 Drops of Cherry flavor drops 8 Tablets of tableted sweetener Few drops of red food coloring Blue: 200g Water 3g Agar 5 Drops of Sparkling Wine flavor drops 8 Tablets of tableted sweetener Few drops of blue food coloring I usually do bigger agar concentration than 1.5%, but wanted bigger batch this time instead. Very last picture is from different small batch, how they look at 3% (much less like regular jellies). Macros for all: 27 kcal / 1g carbs / 11g fiber That is all! submitted by /u/xen32 to r/Volumeeating [link] [comments]

I know this is mlm scam but they already paid the money but they will not buy this again... So how to safely consume this shit.....any Idea submitted by /u/Abyss_Monarch to r/Fitness_India [link] [comments]

[EDIT: Thank you all. Truly. I am trying to respond to all questions throughout the day. Will indicate the finalized version soon. Take care of yourselves and take care of each other.] [FINAL EDIT 3/25/2026: Again, thank you all for the discussion. I have read every single comment and added/adjusted material to this list, indicated with **. Please keep in mind that this is what I would keep stocked in MY home based on my practice/knowledge.] [OK FINAL FINAL EDIT 3/29/2026 - A few of you asked about a post about medical supplies to stock up on. You can find that here. Thanks again! ] These are some medications I try to keep stocked in my home as an emergency medicine physician. My inclusion criteria: Wide therapeutic index (hard to accidentally poison yourself taking as directed) Affordable and widely available OTC (no prescription required) Shelf stable at room temperature (most potency is retained even in inhospitable climates - I looked this up) Reasonably addresses most low acuity problems (i.e. don't be distracted by hemorrhoids when you're trying to fight fires) Obligatory disclaimer: This is NOT one size fits all advice. This is NOT an all inclusive list. Talk to your doctor about your specific situation and whether any of these medications are contraindicated for you before stocking up. Note also that these recommendations are based on my practice (I will indicate my preferred agents with *). Other physicians may have different opinions. I will focus on indications to keep this somewhat brief. Happy to discuss contraindications in the comments. I am very much open to constructive criticism. Please let me know what you think and I will edit this post accordingly, denoting those edits. Pain and Fever Acetaminophen (Tylenol)* Ibuprofen (Advil/Motrin)* Naproxen (Aleve) Acetylsalicylic Acid (Aspirin)* My notes: I prefer Acetaminophen for headaches. NSAIDs work better for musculoskeletal pain. Take NSAIDs with food. Don't give aspirin to kids. Gastrointestinal - Antidiarrheal Loperamide (Imodium) Oral rehydration (Oral rehydration salts, Pedialyte powder, WHO formula, table salt)* My notes: If you have diarrhea + fever + bloody stools, don't take Imodium. I try not to use antidiarrheals in the ER but if SHTF dehydration will kill you faster than in normal circumstances, so I included it. WHO formula is technically best for rehydration, but just take whatever you can keep down, as it is better than nothing. Gastrointestinal - Upper GI Famotidine (Pepcid)* Omeprazole (Prilosec) Calcium Carbonate (Tums)* My notes: Reflux is annoying. Gastritis can be gnawing and maddening. If you don't have access to these medications, avoiding empty stomach with BRAT-style (bland, neutral) diet can also help. Gastrointestinal - Supportive Fiber (Psyllium Husk - Metamucil, Wheat Dextrin - Benefiber*) Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline, Aquaphor)* Phenylephrine + Hydrocortisone + Skin Protectant Suppository (Preparation H)* Zinc Oxide paste (Desitin, Boudreaux's Butt Paste)** My notes: MiraLAX is generally meant for short stints, not chronic daily. You probably won't notice a difference until 3 days of taking it. Make sure to take any fiber or laxative with water. Many people have hemorrhoids, so it's worth having something to treat these. Allergic Loratadine (Claritin)* Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) Intranasal corticosteroid (Flonase, Nasocort, Rhinocort*) My notes: I like Claritin because it is non-drowsy. Some people prefer Cetirizine (Zyrtec), also non-drowsy. Zyrtec turns me into an asshole, though, so we don't keep that. ENTs I know prefer Rhinocort for it's efficacy. For local allergic reactions, don't bother with topical Benadryl; oral works better. Cold & Flu Cough drops and throat lozenges (we like Ricola; try to get sugar free) Honey* (Manuka) Intranasal Oxymetazoline (Afrin)* Guaifenasin (Mucinex, Robitussin Chest Congestion) Pseudoephedrine combinations (DayQuil/NyQuil)** My notes: When you compare efficacy of OTC cough medicines with honey, honey wins. If you want to be extra, get Manuka honey (New Zealand has better bees, I guess). Personally, I HATE not being able to sleep due to nasal congestion/sinus pressure, so I love Afrin. You can only take Afrin for < 3 days, though. Mucinex is tried and true, including in ICU patients. I honestly don't know how I forgot Dayquil/Nyquil. I don't normally recommend combination agents but this helps me personally. No particularly strong evidence for its use, however.** Topical Agents Topical lidocaine (roll-on, patches)* Hand cream (Working Hands)* Lotion (Jergens, Cetaphil)* Hydrocortisone cream** Bacitracin/Polymyxin B combinations (Polysporin, Neosporin)** Topical antifungal like Clotrimazole/Miconazole** Diclofenac (Voltaren gel)** Sunscreen** Benzocaine (Orajel)** My notes: I'm into using roll-on Lidocaine for aches and pains and recommend it to my patients for adjunctive pain relief. Hydrocortisone cream has multiple uses and is therefore helpful. Topical antibiotics ~3x more effective than petroleum jelly in preventing infections in simple wound care. Anti-inflammatory effect of Voltaren gel is attractive for treatment of musculoskeletal/arthritic pain without systemic effects of oral agents. We use any of the antibiotic ointments, but many people are allergic to Neosporin, so reach for others first.** Pediatrics Children's Acetaminophen* Children's Ibuprofen* Children's Benadryl* Children's Loratadine* My notes: Fewer things are more stressful than a sick child. Having at least some options to make them feel better can be a boon. My impression is that infant-labeled medications are marked up/smaller volume. We buy children's and dose accordingly. Be very careful doing it this way. Toxicological*\* Potassium Iodide Activated charcoal My notes: KI is highly recommended for nuclear/radiation emergencies. Single-dose activated charcoal (1 g/kg, typically 25-100g in adults) reduces absorption of many toxins when given within 1 hour of ingestion. Genitourinary*\* Phenazopyridine (Azo) Levonorgestrel (Plan B) My notes: Azo reasonable for symptomatic relief of UTIs when used with antibiotics. Use for < 2 days. Plan B reduces pregnancy risk by 40-90% after unprotected intercourse. Most effective within 72 hours but retains some efficacy up to 120 hours. No contraindications and no serious complications reported, but it isn't necessarily fun to take either. General Your favorite multivitamin* My notes: You'll probably have bigger fish to fry than micronutrient gaps if SHTF, but it's low stakes to have these around. A Note on Antibiotics - Many valid points about whether this should be on this list. And they should be. That said, they are not over the counter and treat very specific bugs/conditions. They violate many of the criteria I outlined up front, so I did not include them here. This is an important gap worth noting. Thanks for reading this far. I like this subreddit. submitted by /u/doctorbigmad to r/preppers [link] [comments]

i’m 22F and have been experiencing low-level hair loss for probably the last 3 years or so. I’ve been on combo birth control and 150 mg spironolactone for the last 2 years for hormonal acne. I started Wellbutrin XL abt 3.5 months ago and dropped down to 100 mg spironolactone. About 3-4 weeks ago I noticed that my hair had lost significant density, especially around the part line/crown, but lowkey all over. I’ve been honestly completely losing my mind about it. My hair is a huge part of my identity and the idea of losing it is heartbreaking. I think I have AGA, but that the Wellbutrin/spironolactone reduction (plus a new job and move) likely triggered TE as well. It wasn’t coming out in clumps or anything but definitely increased shedding. I’ve gone back up to 150 spiro and began 1.25 mg oral minoxidil about 3 weeks ago, along with an iron, D3, omega-3, and pumpkin seed oil supplement. I’ve noticed more shedding recently so I think I may have entered dread shed. I know that I’m unlikely to see any improvement until the 3-6 month mark, but the not knowing is killing me. I’m terrified the minoxidil won’t work and that the people in my life will notice. How noticeable is the thinning?? Is it super obvious?? It’s ripping me up. I just need an objective answer so I can stop obsessing over this. Thank you in advance for any and all help. submitted by /u/iskra-2248 to r/FemaleHairLoss [link] [comments]

My parents own a natural foods store and they get samples of brand new/upcoming food releases. Not sure if these are wildly available yet. These taste just like the non GF ones from what I remember! Hoping they get distributed all over ASAP because I need 100 more bags lol submitted by /u/evillittlekiwi to r/glutenfree [link] [comments]

[r/laundry](r/laundry) is filled with tales of woe - smelly armpits, mystery stains, socks the color of cream of mushroom soup - complete with mysterious embedded dark chunks. I personally love solving these problems (and the reactions when people post the process and results of disaster recovery are extremely popular there). But what of people who just have normal laundry and want a little tune-up? Or have never done their own laundry before? How about some love and guidance for the non-smelly, non-stained, non-crusty? Here's something for them. How I do normal laundry day-to-day. Getting Personal: What people are often surprised to learn is that I really don’t enjoy doing laundry. I don’t think it’s an act of service - I think it’s survival, and I further think expending the minimal amount of time and effort that respects my textiles (and the human and resource inputs that went in to making them) is the best use of my time. It just needs to be done right the first time, every time, so I can watch cat videos on the Internet. There’s no one right way to do laundry, just like there’s no one right way to make a grilled cheese sandwich. Much like slightly-stale sourdough with a skim of dijon mustard inside and a blend of sharp cheddar and either fontina or Monterey Jack, fried in Whirl is my favorite way to do the latter, this is my laundry default method, developed over the years of contending with my messes. 95%+ of the loads I do fall in this rubric. Also note that I’m in North America with water softer than about 75% of households. There are endless corner cases, including silk, wool, down, GoreTex and other waterproof technical fabrics, semi-synthetics like rayon, viscose, “bamboo”, modal, Lyocell and Tencel, silver-infused, FR and anti-static, pillows and stuffed toys, shoes and rugs. I’ll get to those later. This is for: Towels Sheets / Duvet Covers / Pillowcases Clothing (other than Dry Clean Only pieces) Which are at least 95% the following fibers: Cotton Linen Hemp Ramie Polyester / Dacron Nylon / Polyamide Acrylic Lycra / Spandex / Elastane Laundry Apartheid: Separating The Whites And The Colors Please note: I have a problem. I don’t think you absolutely need to do this much to have very good results. You could easily combine the dark and lights in a color family, for example, especially if you use a detergent with anti-redeposition or use color catchers. It’s also likely you could combine neutrals and embellished whites successfully. I have a lot of laundry categories. I also don’t look good in yellow or orange, so I don’t own it. If you do, good for you, and you could aim at the red loads and move the purples to the dark blues and greens. I wear a lot of plum and purple. I have a bunch of IKEA Frakta/Storstomma 80 liter bags hanging up, and stuff gets sorted into them daily. When they’re mostly full, I run the load. Black, charcoal, navy and dark brown Dark blues and greens Dark reds and purples Light blues and greens Light reds and purples Neutrals like khaki, tan, ecru, light grey and taupe Whites with stripes / embellishment Absolute plain white Socks & Underwear (cotton blends, mostly white) Sheets (by color) People Towels (by color) Kitchen & Pet Towels (all white, presoaked with chlorine bleach for sanitizing in my world) The towels and sheets get isolated in this scheme because for me, I need to dry the sheets on Delicate and the towels on High. Your sheets may be more durable or you may be willing to separate them between the wash and dry. They’re both full loads for me, without the need to combine to make a good load. Sorting like this gives me flexibility in the choice of chemistry, and doesn’t require me to take any special precautions to prevent color transfer in anything but the first wash of an item. I also care a lot less about lint, because the lint is largely invisible when it’s between items of like color and intensity. Pretreat: Don’t Make Your Detergent Do Everything I am a pretreater. One of the first laundry tasks I was ever trusted with by my legendarily persnickety mother was identifying stains for pretreating, and eventually I was trusted with her can of old-skool Spray ’n’ Wash with solvents. Detergents and equipment have improved a lot in the years since mumblemumble, but I still pretreat, in exchange for not having to check every garment for lingering stains between wash and dry. The Usual: Stains from Food, Plants and Animals Including Myself This is the most common cause of stains on my laundry. It’s like I never learned to use cutlery as a toddler. It’s also the most common cause of spots on most textiles for most people. My not-so-secret weapon against these stains? Enzyme pretreater. They’re safe on the listed fabrics regardless of color, they’re not smelly or environmentally sketchy, they work extremely well and there are many to choose from. There’s a list on the spreadsheet linked at The Lipase List on the Pretreater tab. Pick whichever one sounds good - they all work about the same because their formulae are about the same. ​I've got a stockpile of old-formula Tide Rescue that I'm emotionally attached to in a less-than-healthy way, but I've also been happy with Whole Foods and Open Nature. I'll pick up a bottle of the President's Choice next time I'm in Canada. Spritz or squirt the stains at least a half-hour before laundering, up to about a week. These removers are working so long as they’re damp, and once they’ve worked, the stain washes out with detergent - so don’t be discouraged if the stain still appears to be there before washing. The Not Uncommon: Mineral Oils I work on cars and do motorsports. I get automotive grease on me. Enzyme pretreaters are nothing special on this kind of oily soil. What works is nonionic surfactant, the active ingredient in many heavy-duty liquid detergents. Anything can work here. I usually have some Tide or Persil around for this purpose. If you get these spots, hit them with some liquid detergent at least fifteen minutes before washing. Penetration is improved if you dilute 1:1 with tap water. Tamping the mixture in with a brush or spoon can help improve first-wash removal. This is also a solid pretreater for waterproof/water resistant makeup stains. The Woes Of Living With Someone Who Takes Notes In Ink Ink merits special consideration. While many inks and markers and crayons will come out with standard wash, many will not. If I see an ink mark on something, I pretreat it with a specialist product, either Amodex or Carbona Stain Devil 3, Ink, Marker & Crayon, following the label directions carefully. These three categories cover 99% of my laundry woes. Ask [r/laundry](r/laundry) or DM me for advice if you have something else on your textiles. Don’t dump v1negar on it as a default. Check. Your. Pockets. I argue that it’s the responsibility of whoever wore the garment to check the pockets before things go in the hamper, barring some debility or being too young to understand the risks of not doing so (which in my case could rise to capital punishment). But it behooves the launderer to give a final check. The launderer is entitled to keep anything they find that they want, including cash, jewelry, electronics and snacks. Consider it a tip. Load The Machine: I have a 4.5 ft^3 LG front loader. Truly middle of the pack. If I’m using powders in the wash cycle, they go in the back of the drum now. We’ll come back to that topic. I add enough textiles to reach at least 75% of the way up the opening but not so many there isn’t a fist worth of space open at the top of the drum. Loading this full optimizes the mechanical action of the wash. I check the door seal drains for lint or hair or debris before shutting the door. If something has straps narrower than about 2” or is of delicate construction that could be prone to stretching (a sweater like a knit cotton cardigan, not a sweatshirt), it goes in a mesh delicates bag, alone. If it has screen printed graphics or is denim, it gets turned inside out to protect the surface appearance. If you want your jeans to exhibit more character at friction points, wash right side out. Zippers are zipped. Buttons and snaps are unfastened. Velcro is adjusted so no scratchy part is exposed. Hoodie strings are tied. When I still use a conventional top loader, like on vacation,I loosely load it dry to the water fill line that you can usually see on the agitator. I would then adjust the water fill level so, after a couple minutes of agitation, the textiles have between 3/4 and two inches of water above them. 1.5 is perfect. Chemistry: I’m a sweaty greasy mess who drops food. So obviously I use an enzyme detergent. I maintain a list at The Lipase List where you can find something you like that works with your water. I don’t care about the presence or absence of fragrance one way or the other, but if the product is fragranced it has to be unobtrusive. From an olfactory perspective, I really don’t want $5 of my perfume overpowered by $0.02 worth of laundry fragrance. As of this writing, I’m doing 85+% of my loads with 2 oz / 60ml of liquid 365 Sport Detergent from Whole Foods because it has an uncommon enzyme, DNase, that gets my clothes cleaner than my previous regimen. I’ve discussed why DNase matters elsewhere. I add 1-2 fluid oz (2-4T / about 20-40g) or so of an oxygen bleach. If a load is cotton-rich and lighter in color than “light navy”, it’s more likely to get Biz just because I like the effect of optical brightener. If the load is darker, it doesn’t get Biz - it gets an oxi without optical brightener, like Kirkland Signature (which I hate the smell of and am working through to use it up), Target’s Up and Up, OxiClean Free or 365 Oxygen Whitener. When I get to the bottom of this pile of oxi bleaches, I’ll switch to Febu to get all the goodies aside from optical brightener. ​The other 15% of these animal-fiber-free loads get 4.5T / 70ml ofTide with Bleach powder. It’s purely vibes and color that define which gets which when. Only things qualifying as lights or lighter get the TwB. I also use TwB on kitchen towels because they don’t get a lot of benefit from DNase - might as well save a little cash. Automotive loads get 3 oz / 90ml of Tide/Persil liquid and a cup/ 250mL of ammonia. You can’t beat the cleaning of a high-performance conventional-surfactant liquid on petrochemical soils. Ammonia helps the grease removal. I am a massive fan of citric acid rinsing. It leaves my cottons cottonier, my polyesters slicker and my animal fibers softer and smoother. I use a shade over 2 tsp / 10g citric acid crystals right in the softener dispenser. My machine likes the dry just fine and I don’t get residual crunchies after the wash. YMMV. Details of the Why of citric rinsing here ​Wash (Finally): TL;DR - warm water, Normal cycle, extra rinses, adjusting soil level as appropriate with just enough detergent to do the job, citric acid in the rinse. Wash Action: I generally wash on Normal because these items are Normal. I usually set the soil level to the maximum - this extends the agitation to get maximum cleaning with no downside except a time penalty. Temperature: I usually select a warm wash for clothing and a hot wash for socks/underwear, towels and sheets. The exception to this is clothing with automotive soils - it gets much cleaner on hot wash because of the nature of the soils. My warm wash is about 102F/39C. Barely over body temperature, slightly cooler than I like my bathwater or shower, completely appropriate for bathing an infant. Using water of this temperature lets me use half the agitation time as I would at 82F/28C to get the same cleaning results, and one fourth the agitation time as would be required at 62F/17C. Rinses are always cold on my machine. Rinse: Yes, please. All of them. As many as the machine will let me select. Even with perfectly dosed detergent, you’re going to get some carryover from wash to rinse, and at the end of the first rinse, my clothes are still of higher pH than my tap water. That’s a definitive indication that there is still wash chemistry in there. pH is easy to measure on finished fabrics (just touch pH paper to the damp textiles and see for yourself) and it’s therefore the best proxy for rinse thoroughness. Three gallons of extra water for each rinse cycle is pocket lint compared to the other ways we use water in the US, and it’s respectful to your skin and the textiles to get them throughly rinsed. My machine dispenses the softener cup in the last selected rinse, so my final pH is lower than tap water thanks to the citric acid. Spin Speed: Send it. Unless an item is stuffed or of extremely delicate construction (like a $500 bra), spin speed is a synonym for “how much detergent-infused water would you like to get rid of?” I’d like to maximize that. High speed spin it is. I then go off and ignore the machine for 2:07. It’s laboring. I don’t need to. I come here and talk about laundry. How (Not) Dry I Am: For as much time as I want my clothes to spend in the washer, and my longstanding enthusiasm for warmer wash temperatures, my feelings about the dryer go the other way. The dryer is where clothes (especially natural and semisynthetic fibers) go to die. Hot dry air is lethal to clothing. Overdrying is so much worse than any notional “overwashing”. Unless it’s a towel, if it’s going in the dryer, it’s going on Delicate, Sensor Dry, set to “less dry”, and all the “wrinkle guard”/cool down my 1987 Kenmore can muster. This leaves most cotton-rich fabrics barely damp to the touch, slightly damper at the seams. At the end of the cycle, they are room temperature and that trace of dampness ensures they never got too hot during the cycle to come up to “damaged fiber”. As a result, my lint screen has barely the faintest trace of lint from clothing loads (although, admittedly, we don’t wear a ton of fleece). Shirts and pants get hung out of the dryer, other clothing gets piled loosely in an open basket to acclimate / finish drying at ambient. Sheets get dried all the way to dry on delicate (a tiny fraction closer to the “dry” setting than the “less dry” and sometimes they need an hour laid out on the bed before they’re completely dry. Towels get dried sensor dry hot as a final microbial kill step and come out hot to the touch. If the item is more than about 75% synthetic content, it’s getting hung to dry right out of the washer. My laundry room is warm and dry and these fibers dry so quickly. Limiting exposure to heat is especially important for blends with Lycra/spandex/elastane. It’s like the fountain of youth for elastics to avoid dry heat. That’s it. That’s how I do laundry. Products mentioned here are mentioned because I like them; I haven’t been paid to mention any of them. Trademarks are those of the trademark holders. The work is my original work and I retain copyright. My financial disclosure information and how I get paid for this work can be found at https://www.kismai.com/about-kismai/Money submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

Ok so I've been dealing with bloating and irregular digestion for like months now and I know I dont eat enough vegetables lol. my doctor basically told me to up my fiber intake but im overwhelmed by all the options out there. I've tried those fiber powder things you mix into water and honestly they taste awful and i never stick with them. same with psyllium husk, the texture makes me gag every time. I'm looking for a fiber supplement that actually works but also something i wont dread taking every day. does anyone have recs for something that doesnt taste like dirt or require me to chug a gross drink? bonus points if its easy to take on the go bc my schedule is chaotic Appreciate any help, my gut needs it 😅 submitted by /u/mick1706 to r/HealthyEatingnow [link] [comments]

Got this bag of Japaneses Doritos in my stocking this morning. Ate a chip then decided to see what’s it in. This must be a mistranslation right? submitted by /u/cashlash825 to r/whatisit [link] [comments]

I always said i wanted to try the hair systems, but never decided because of the work that comes with it (and those prices...), used this fake fiber powder to cover my hair every day at work had to reapply it every morning and I think I am just about down holding onto the hair I am still just a little afraid of feeling like I'm losing my youth. submitted by /u/Masdrako to r/bald [link] [comments]

This is a general introduction to Spa Day for people new to the process or who have been introduced to the method from outside r/Laundry . The document was last revised on 12/01/2025. What In The Hell Is Spa Day? Spa Day is an intensive enzymatic reset process for textiles that have developed specific stubborn problems related to oily residues from plants, animals and things animals should eat, that don’t wash out in one or two typical washes with optimal product and program selection. It uses concentrated solutions of specific components to degrade these oily soils, detach them from fibers and rinse them away. Isn’t This Just Laundry Stripping? No. Laundry stripping as popularized during the Lockdowns is using high-pH salt-based chemistry to remove dust, particulate soil and failing dye from textiles. It’s often done in a bathtub and there are as many ways to do it as TikTokers who crave views more than they crave oxygen. Why Is It Called Spa Day? Because it’s giving your clothes (and you) some time off for pampering. They sit in a nice warm bath of concentrated healing elixir, and you fuck off and watch cat videos on the internet while the chemistry does the hard work. Take A LOAD Off, Annie Spa Day relies on four carefully-chosen components to remove unwanted oily gunk from textiles: Lipase - an enzyme that biologically cuts oils from animal or vegetable sources into four smaller pieces that detergent can more easily remove Oxygen - color-safe oxygen bleach lightens stains and rips up odor molecules Ammonia - a gas-in-water booster to improve oily soil removal and help surfactants remove oils from fibers Detergency - surfactants to attach degraded oil to water and rinse it away from the fibers LOAD components get applied in different combinations and concentrations in two phases: the Spa Day soak that loosens the contaminants from the fiber overnight, and the subsequent Rehab Wash that removes these loosened soils and washes them down the drain. How Do I Do Spa Day? Everything you want to know about How is at r/laundry/s/uCiv9rbmO8 Not Everything Needs Spa Day This is for problem textiles - where you would consider throwing them out or otherwise replacing them due to severe obvious defects. Most textiles don’t need Spa Day - when I developed the process, I had to go out to thrift stores to buy items dirty enough to test on. Things that have been getting optimal care (86-107F / 30-40C washes, an enzyme detergent (preferably with lipase or DNase), regular cycles (as opposed to improper use of Delicates or Speed Wash cycles)? They’re probably clean enough. A couple normal washes with optimal chemistry will get them right. Spa Day is a speedrun to replace 6-8 optimal washes in one glorious pass. What Problems Is Spa Day Intended To Solve? Odor Problems Odors That Persist Through The Wash - often of a biological origin, but can be from other sources such as applied perfumes and product fragrances, which are being retained by oily residue on textiles. “Thrift Store” smell would be a common issue Odor Rebloom - textiles that smell good out of the wash but develop an unpleasant odor after tumble drying or wear. Storage Odors - crayon/waxy, rancid or “musty” odors on textiles stored in dry conditions. “Grandma’s House” - odors held by older textiles stored with exposure to aerosolized fats from cooking and infrequent laundering Restaurant / Foodservice Textiles - napery, linen and clothing exposed to kitchen environments Visible Problems: Underarm Stains - especially those with a stiff or waxy texture or yellow, brown or grey color. Removing white antiperspirant deposits can require a follow-on treatment to address mineral salts from sweat and antiperspirant. Spa Day removes oily or waxy deodorant and body oil components. Yellow/Orange/Brown Greasy Human Soils - often found on pillowcases, sheets, collars, cuffs and waistbands - this is an accumulation of sebum / skin oil not removed well in previous laundry processes Oily Stains - from animal or plant sources including cooking oils, and fats and pet contact. Automotive and petroleum-based oily stains need different treatment. Texture Problems: Slick- or Waxy-Feeling Textiles - often found on linens and throw blankets as well as clothing in direct skin contact Fabric Softener Buildup - caused by use of liquid softener or dryer sheets Poor Absorbency / Moisture Wicking - cottons that won’t soak up water, synthetic performance fibers that seem to retain moisture or hold sweat on skin Matting Of Synthetic Fleece / Fur - fine fibers that won’t separate and stay fluffy What Spa Day Isn’t Intended To Solve: Mold / Mildew stains and odors Rust / Metal Oxide stains Urine Stains / Odors - although the soaking in a concentrated detergent solution works quite well because almost all lipase-containing detergents also contain proteases that target urine odor and the method includes oxygen bleach to target odor directly - you don’t need to add the ammonia in the subsequent wash for urine removal. Mystery Stains from petroleum-oil or other sources How Did My Textiles Get To This State? Oils build up on or stain laundry for a variety of reasons and most of them aren’t your fault: Underdosed Detergent - which is usually the result of hard water eating your detergent. Ineffective Laundry Product Ingredients Such As Hard Soaps and Saponified Oils - these ingredients don’t effectively remove oil from fibers to be rinsed away, and can themselves build up in some water situations Low wash temperature - without a corresponding increase in wash cycle time. North American machines set to Cold can need four times longer agitation than the same machine running at Warm for equal cleaning performance. Synthetic fibers - that preferentially attract and hold oil because they’re designed to repel / wick water, as in athletic / performance fibers. In general, that which repels water attracts oil. Overuse of Express Wash Cycles - insufficient time and mechanical action to completely dislodge soils. And the single most common reason in North America: Detergents without lipase or DNase/nuclease/phosphodiesterase - top tier detergents have removed lipase to cut costs and make formulation easier, and it's at the expense of your textiles. Shame on Big Laundry! While it’s absolutely possible to get textiles clean without lipase, it requires better control of the rest of the wash process and chemistry. Lipase is a cheat code that helps ensure first-wash removal even when the rest of the wash isn’t perfect. On What Kind Of Textiles Can I Use Spa Day? The process is generally suitable for colorfast cotton, polyester, spandex/Lycra/elastane, nylon, acrylic, polypropylene, aramid, UHMWPE, linen, ramie and hemp and blended fabrics of these fibers. It does not generally disrupt commercially printed or sublimated graphics or most printed patterns except those where white or light colored background vinyl or DTF resin is overprinted with sublimation or DTG inks. This is common on black graphic tees with multi-color continuous tone graphics. It’s typically safe for embroidered embellishments. If you aren't sure if a garment of these materials is colorfast, mix a teaspoon of the powdered ingredient you choose in cup of hot tap water. Apply a few drops of this solution to a hidden area of the garment, wait an hour, rinse and hang to dry. If the color doesn't change, you're good to go. FR/AR clothing that is rated for home laundering under ASTM standard F2757 is fine with this process so long as the Detergent component of the soak or wash does not contain soapy ingredients. If you’re unsure, check The Lipase List for confirmation. On What Textiles Should I Be Cautious About Using Spa Day? Spa Day is somewhat poorly suited to rayon, acetate/triacetate, viscose, Tencel/Lyocell, “bamboo”, modal and similar semi-synthetic cellulosic fabrics because of the substantial variations in manufacturing chemistry and process in these particular fibers. Extended soaking time and relatively high wash pH leaves them potentially vulnerable to mechanical damage in the wash process. If you want to try this on these fabrics, I highly suggest using a delicates mesh bag for both steps, so that the fabrics aren't being stretched or jostled as much in their vulnerable wet and weak state. Launderer beware. You have been warned. On What Textiles Shouldn’t I Ever Perform Spa Day? It’s not suitable at all for silk, wool, cashmere, Angora, alpaca, vicuña, leather, suede or fur or blends thereof - anything of animal origin - because of the protein-destroying enzymes, high temperatures, long wash motion and high pH. Items with ferrous metal buttons, buckles, fasteners or decoration may discolor in the soak cycle. This discoloration may affect adjacent fabric and can be removed with a rust remover product if necessary. Sequins, beading and spangles as well as metallic threads such as Lurex or lamé should not be exposed to this process. Leather or suede trim is notorious for running in long soaks. Fabrics with metallic silver odor prevention or pathogen control treatments such as X-Static, Silvadur, Ionic+, SilverWorks, Silver+ or SIlverescent should never be treated with oxygen bleaches. These are often found on athletic and athleisure clothing as well as scrubs for clinical wear. Slip In To Something Dry.... The good news is, conventional solvent dry cleaning with perc, DF-2000, K4, Supercritical CO2 or D5 silicone/ Green Earth processes can very effectively remove the same defects from all of these challenging textiles above. A professional dry cleaner is your best ally here. You need to tell them if odors are a particular problem to flag the garment for special handling. A Note About Authorship: This work, like all other original-content posts on Reddit, is the property of the original poster, and commercial reuse of the work requires permission from the author, not just attribution. If you’d like to request permission, drop me a chat or email me - [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

Long time lurker here. Since moved to the UK from Germany I hadn't had a good laundry day. It used to be so simple: washed, hung clothes on airer in the communal basement laundry room for 1-2 days. But my new flat in the UK is small and I have no space to leave the laundry out to dry naturally. Clothes were stinky as soon as they were drying. I was distraught and started lurking here for clues. And I finally cracked the laundry code, with all the tips here! Clothes now dry in about 6 hours, smell absolutely amazing for days. I actually look forward to doing laundry. Here are my setups, hope it helps someone in a similar situation: DITCH THE DAMN NON-BIO CRAP!!! Why UK, why. I didn't realise there was such option. Didn't realise the so-called non-bio doesn't contain enzyme and didn't wash as well. I am now a proud owner of Bio Persil liquid detergent and will switch to the powder version once it runs out. Citric rinse makes everything so soft. I might have had a hard water problem? Not sure, but whatever it is, this solves it. More details from the expert here: https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/comments/1nhdr0r/when_the_rinse_washes_you_clean_youll_know_citric/ No more fabric softener to mask the musty smell. I still use scent beads though, don't hate me. I like smell too much not to use it. I try not to use a lot ( one tablespoon or two), just enough so when I move around, I catch a whiff of a clean smell. So far I haven't seen any problem but will keep a close eye on it. Pre-treat stains as soon as possible, then I can leave them in the laundry basket until laundry day. I still use a gall soap I got from Germany. It still works the best so far. Haven't been able to find an alternative here in the UK. Use colour catcher: I am lazy. I don't separate my light and dark clothes (still wash white separately though, I like taking risk but not that much). I reuse my colour catcher until they're completely unusable. Stop overloading the washing machine: helps wash better and not overcrowd the airer. Having some space between clothes is extremely important for air circulation and even distribution of heat from the dehumidifier. Since this photo I have started clipping my clothes on the bar instead of draping them over the bar, so my clothes are not folded in half and touch while drying. Speaking of dehumidifier: this is the best setup I have found. Oscillating fan on top of dehumidifier to evenly distribute the heat. Otherwise the clothes will not dry evenly and end up smelling musty. Remember to set it on continuous mode and not auto. Optional but I move clothes around when I can, this helps them dry evenly. Hope it helps and happy laundry day! EDIT TO ADD: To the people who are bashing me for promoting bio detergent because it's the devil for people with sensitive skin. I'll copy and paste my response to such comment here: Except for active wear, the majority of my clothes are cotton, linen and wool. Unlike what you are assuming, I have a preference towards natural fiber. Link between enzyme and skin allergies have been contested since 2000s, see for example this study here (Investigations of numerous individuals with skin complaints attributed to laundry products demonstrate convincingly that enzymes were not responsible. Indeed, enzyme-containing laundry products have an extensive history of safe use. Thus, the supposed adverse effects of enzymes on skin seem to be a consequence of a mythology. The important practical lesson is that when primary or secondary care practitioners are presented with a skin complaint, it should not be dismissed as a result of using an enzyme-containing laundry product as the diagnosis will certainly lie elsewhere) or here (With the exception for the potential skin and eye irritating effects of some proteases, and the well-documented potential for respiratory sensitization in case of work place exposure, enzymes in general don't produce acute toxicity, dermal sensitization; genotoxicity, or repeated dose oral toxicity). I'm not going to debate whether non-bio works for you, that is your truth and personal experience. However, I do question your argument that non-bio is automatically good for people with skin sensitivity. I myself have urticaria, and see no difference when I switch to bio, after using non-bio for almost 2 years. It might be the case that people are allergic to certain ingredients, fragrance, detergent residue due to inadequate rinsing, etc. In that case, maybe seek a dermatologist to determine the cause of it. submitted by /u/Skimd to r/laundry [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/angrylittlepotato to r/comedyheaven [link] [comments]

You’ve been referred here because you’ve got persistent stains, underarm buildup or a funky smell in your laundry due to oils not being removed thoroughly. This post was last modified 12/11/2025 - it now emphasizes the How of Spa Day instead of including the Why And When. You're Not Alone r/Laundry gets many posts a day about strange odors and persistent greasy stains. Many people recommend this technique or a variation thereof to get textiles suffering from these extremely common problems back to a clean fresh state. What In The Hell Is Spa Day? Spa Day is an intensive enzymatic reset process for textiles that have developed specific stubborn problems related to oily buildup, that won’t wash out in one or two typical washes with optimal product and program selection. It uses concentrated solutions of specific components to degrade oily soils, detach them from fibers and rinse them away. First the items are soaked in the Spa Day soak and then they are washed in the washer in a Rehab Wash to remove the things the Spa Day soak loosened up. There’s an entire post about What, Why & Why Not at What Is Spa Day? How To Spa Day What Do You Need? Container and Chemistry Holding It Together - You need a suitable container. Stainless steel, ceramic, glass or plastic containers large enough to hold the affected textiles but small enough to require a modest quantity of water are best. I am partial to beer coolers, as they hold heat for a long time and often have a drain spigot. If you’re using fragranced products and are concerned about your cooler retaining the perfumes or odor from the textiles, line it with a heavy garbage bag before adding the solution. Front Loading washing machines, even with soak cycles, are not amenable to Spa Day as you can’t keep the items submerged. If your Top Loading washing machine can do high volume soaking (with everything not just damp, but completely submerged) for 8-12 hours, that's a fine option as well, but you're using 20 gallons of water to do it and 5 cups of detergent is expensive. The smallest practical container that will completely submerge the items is the better, more economical answer. Please Don’t Use The Bathtub! - It’s much harder to keep the items submerged in a bathtub and they cool off much faster than in a container with less exposed surface area. The heat helps the chemistry work overnight. You don’t need any room for the items or solution to circulate. You just need the items saturated and submerged. If You Want To Keep The Bath Heated - sous vide circulators or a warming plate or similar gentle heat maintenance can improve Spa Day results if you’re not using a cooler or similar insulated container. Set your bath temperature to maintain 120F/50C - do not exceed 150F/65C as it damages the enzymes before they are exhausted. Chemistry - It’s As Easy As LOAD (formerly A,B,C,L)! Broadly you need four chemistry components; this can take two or three different products, depending on your personal preferences: Lipase - an enzyme that biologically cuts oils from animal or vegetable sources into four smaller pieces that detergent can more easily remove Oxygen - color-safe oxygen bleach lightens stains and rips up odor molecules Ammonia - a gas-in-water booster to improve oily soil removal and help surfactants remove oils from fibers Detergency - surfactants to attach degraded oil to water and rinse it away from the fibers The catch is, no one product can contain all four letters. They’re incompatible for storage, so it takes either two or three products to tick all the boxes. Give Me An A! - Ammonia No matter what other chemistry decisions you make, you will need a source of A - Ammonia, any 2-25% solution of ammonium hydroxide will work. Clear, sudsy or lemon doesn’t matter - it’s the ammonia that counts, not the additives. In the US and Canada it’s typically sold in large plastic jugs in the cleaning products aisle with window and hard surface cleaners, usually on the bottom shelf. It’s also available at home improvement and hardware stores. Outside the US and Canada it may be more easily found in hardware stores than grocers and hypermarkets. The most common brand available in the US is Walmart’s Great Value Clear Ammonia, found on the bottom shelf, under the window and floor cleaners. You will use 2 cups of 2% solution, 1 cup of 5% solution, 1/2 cup of 10% solution or 3T of 25% solution. A Note About Ammonia and Bleach: I’m frequently asked about the hazards of mixing ammonia and bleach. These are real. For chlorine bleach liquids or tablets, the risks of mixing with ammonia are injury and death. That’s what the dire warnings about mixing ammonia and bleach are about - chlorine bleaches, like Clorox or Cloralen. Mixing chlorine bleach and ammonia forms chloramine, a hazardous compound that can injure lung tissue with relatively minor exposure. Don't do that. Ever. You shouldn’t mix full-strength liquid ammonia with dry oxygen booster either, especially in a sealed container, as it will burst as it releases ammonia gas. This is why the instructions for Rehab Wash are very careful to minimize contact between dry powders containing oxygen bleach and the ammonia liquid. The risk from mixing ammonia and oxygen bleaches diluted in water, as used in this method, are limited to getting it on your hair and waiting 45 minutes to an hour, at which point you will be a brassy blonde. Or blond, if you’re a dude. Ammonia + peroxide is the secret of bottle blondes everywhere. It’s perfectly safe. I’m not out here trying to kill people. Follow the method directions below carefully. L, O & D - You Have Choices This has historically been the source of the most questions about the process. Hence why each of the four options has been split out into a separate linked document. Choose an approach before proceeding. Measurements for each component in both stages are in the linked document, along with regional example products. Option 1 - Complete Powder/Tablet in the Spa Day Soak, Complete Powder/Tablet + Liquid Ammonia In Rehab Wash Option 2 - Complete Booster Powders for Spa Day Soak, Complete Booster Powder + Any Detergent + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Option 3 - Lipase Detergent + Added Oxygen Booster in Spa Day Soak, Lipase Detergent + Added Oxygen Booster + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Option 4 - *NEW* Enzyme Booster + Any Detergent In Spa Day Soak, Enzyme Booster + Any Detergent + Liquid Ammonia in Rehab Wash Next Stop, Canyon Ranch - It's Time For Your Clothes To Have A Spa Day - The Soak Step S1 - Prepare The Textiles - Sort the affected textiles generally by color - it’s best practice to use separate soaks and washes for at least darks, colors, and whites + neutrals. Red cottons are notorious for bleeding color throughout their lives, so consider soaking them entirely separately. Step S2 - Prepare The Spa Day Solution - dissolve the Spa Day Soak components in hottest possible tap water (up to 140F/60C) and stir until completely dissolved using a wood, plastic or stainless steel implement. You must ensure that all of the granules of the powder are completely dissolved before adding the fabrics. Failure to do so can result in permanent discoloration of items. If you’re unsure if your powder components have fully dissolved, wait five minutes and stir again. The single biggest source of textile damage from Spa Day occurs when product is not completely dissolved and the wet particles settle on clothing causing focal bleaching. This is most common with Vanish/Resolve/Napisan powders in Option 2 chemistry, but all products with TAED are at risk of this side effect. Be especially careful to stir any foam back down into the bath if you're using Vanish/Resolve/Napisan , as fine particles can be suspended in the foam. You will not add any liquid ammonia in this step, regardless of which chemistry option you choose. Step S3 - Add The Textiles - submerge the textiles completely in the Spa Day solution, squeezing and pressing to ensure complete saturation. Textiles need to be completely underwater for the duration of the Spa Day soak. A ceramic plate or mug, or white cotton towels are an excellent way to keep items submerged. Covering the container to keep the heat in longer improves results. Step S4 - Relax And Enjoy Better Things For Better Living Through The Miracle Of Science- Soak 8-12 hours. Just let the process work. No need to stir. Watch cat videos or something. Step S5 - Drain - Drain the textiles. Don’t wring or twist or particularly try to dewater the textiles. Send Those Dirty, Dirty Textiles Straight To Rehab To Clean Up Their Acts! - The Rehab Wash(es) Now it’s time to wash off what the Spa Day soak has loosened up. Enter the Rehab Wash. Step W1 - Load Dry Powders & Liquid Detergent In The Machine - using the dosages and products described in Options 1-4 above, place any liquid detergent components in the dispenser of your machine (if so equipped) and place any powders either in the dispenser configured for powder (if only using powders) or in the bottom of the wash basket. Do not combine liquid and powder ingredients in the dispenser. If you have no detergent dispensers, place the powders and any liquid detergent in different sections of the wash basket so they don’t form clumps. Step W2 - Load Drained Textiles In The Machine - Place a load worth of damp, drained textiles in the machine. For front loaders, this is typically about 75% of the way up the glass when damp. For top-load machines, use as many pieces as you would typically wash, accounting that they will take up less space while sodden. Step W3 - Add The Ammonia - Pour the dose of the A - Ammonia liquid directly on the textiles - the amount ranges from 3T to 2 cups depending on concentration. Most household ammonia in the US and Canada is around 4-5%, so you’ll use 1 cup/250 mL. Do not pour the A - Ammonia in the washer first, nor pour it directly on any powdered products. If you're using a top-load washer, and you're concerned about ammonia odors, allow the washer to fill completely and then pour the ammonia directly into the water. Step W4 - Wash - It's important to start the wash quickly after the textiles are loaded - the powder they're touching is water-activated, and you don't want damp concentrated powder on the items for very long. Wash with a heavy duty cycle, warm or hot water as appropriate for the fabrics, and set the soil level as high as possible to extend the wash process if possible. Choose as many extra rinses as available to reduce any residue left behind. Do not add fabric softener, scent beads, chlorine bleach, borax, washing soda, v1negar, live animals or your hopes and dreams to the wash process. You may add citric acid or v1negar to the softener dispenser to reduce the final pH of the clothing. Please note: Rehab Wash may produce ammonia odors, especially in conventional top-loading machines - in fact, it may smell like the Windex factory exploded. Don’t worry - these fumes will disappear when the fabric is dry. Ammonia is a gas in water; it will evaporate completely leaving nothing behind. You may want to crack a window, turn on a vent fan or avoid the area while washing. People vary substantially in their tolerance of ammonia fumes. Step W5 - Dry - If you’re treating stains or visible underarm buildup, hang to dry when the cycle completes. If you’re treating odors, you may tumble dry on delicate/low heat until mostly dry, but hang to finish, just in case there is a lingering odor. It’s MUCH more effective to rewash when the lingering bits haven’t been baked in with thorough high-temperature drying. Step W6 - Evaluate - If visible stains or perceptible odor remain, you may need to repeat the rehab washes. Start from Step W1 of Rehab Wash If the stains or odors aren’t removed within three rehab washes, they may be permanent and they may not be oil stains at all. Please see Polyquat Spots for details on a common cause of oily-looking stains that can’t be removed by conventional methods. Step W7 - Bask In Your Success - Your textiles should now be clean to touch, feel and smell. Nice work! Keeping It Clean - Maintenance washes: Regular use of any laundry product with lipase (see The Lipase List for a link to a spreadsheet with a maintained list of products) will remove oily stains and prevent buildup and odors. All oily soil removal is improved by using at least a warm / 40C cycle and residue removal is improved by using an acidic rinse product like Downy Rinse Out Odor, Gain Rinse & Renew, Tide Boost, citric acid or v1negar. Citric Rinsing has details on residue-removal rinsing. Pretreating spots and stains with a pretreater or liquid detergent with lipase can virtually guarantee first-wash removal - see the pretreater tab on the sheet linked from The Lipase List ). A Note About Authorship: This work, like all other original-content posts on Reddit, is the property of the original poster, and commercial reuse of the work requires permission from the author, not just attribution. If you’d like to request permission, drop me a chat or email me - [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) submitted by /u/KismaiAesthetics to r/laundry [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/galvind to r/Doritos [link] [comments]

I started using this and noticed the powder doesn’t dissolve all the way like Metamucil. Curious on what other experiences are like here submitted by /u/iTryToLift to r/Costco [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/globehater to r/science [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/notGhxst to r/oddlysatisfying [link] [comments]