Money Saving Challenge

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For years, as the Met Gala has grown ever bigger, blanketing social media with pictures of guests in their finery, smashing cultural fund-raising records, teetering tantalizingly on the line between fabulous and ridiculous, the questions and controversies surrounding New York’s “party of the year” have likewise proliferated. Could the shindig, nominally a benefit for the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, get any more high-profile? When most of the country was struggling, should any institution be charging $100,000 a ticket for a party? And perhaps most importantly: What would happen when Anna Wintour, the evening’s mastermind and the woman who transformed it from a typical charity ball into an attention-guzzling juggernaut, retired? **Would the brands and people willing to pony up these exorbitant sums to be in one another’s orbits instead pocket the money? And if so, what would that mean for the future of the Costume Institute, a department that has been almost fully dependent on the gala as a source of its annual funds since the party began in 1948? Could it even survive without the extravaganza? It turns out the museum itself has been quietly working on an answer.** **“Since 2016, we have been putting some money that we raised for the gala aside into a quasi endowment,” Andrew Bolton, the Costume Institute’s curator in charge, said this month. And by 2030 — possibly as soon as 2028 — the Costume Institute will have saved enough of a nest egg to potentially support its own basic operations for the foreseeable future, no matter what happens in the greater museum economy or with the gala itself.** Along with this year’s inauguration of the new Condé M. Nast Galleries in the Great Hall, which will house the Costume Institute’s blockbuster shows, the endowment fund represents a dramatic transformation in the position of the Costume Institute, not to mention its relationship to the party held in its honor. “I, and the museum, always wanted the department to be not as reliant on the gala every year,” Bolton said. “The Met Gala is extraordinary, but sometimes it dwarfs everything.” Besides, the department has been forced to cancel galas twice, in 2002, after Sept. 11, and in 2020, during the early months of the pandemic. “It was a real wake-up call,” Bolton said of the Covid cancellation. “What if there was another global disaster, and people were like, ‘I can’t come to a party?’” Ms. Wintour, he said, “takes immense pride in every year going higher and higher. But there will be a point where that’s not sustainable.” A more permanent and reliable solution was necessary to ensure that “we would be safe in terms of the upkeep and the care of our collection and have enough money to take care of ourselves indefinitely,” Bolton said. According to Darren Walker, the president of the board of trustees of the National Gallery of Art in Washington D.C., “it’s always great news if a department can be fully funded. But aside from some private museums, I don’t know of any that actually are.” Enter the endowment fund. Though Bolton and a museum spokeswoman said it was museum policy not to discuss specific department finances, and though the Met does not break out such numbers in its annual report, they did acknowledge the Costume Institute fund had been formally created in 2016 and was, like most of the museum’s endowments, run by the Met’s investment and development teams. Currently, the department’s operating costs include salaries for curators, researchers and conservators; storage and conservation of more than 33,000 objects; exhibition costs for the smaller fall shows and publications; and support of the Costume Institute’s Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library. (Bolton also estimated that about 10 percent of the Met Gala money went to the museum itself.) Still, some back-of-the-envelope math is possible. Given that the operating budget of the Costume Institute is approximately $5 million a year, it would most likely require an endowment of between $100 and $130 million. (According to the American Alliance of Museums, 5 percent is the average draw of an endowment fund.) The gala has raised $166.5 million over the past 10 years, so subtracting the operating costs and the amount that goes directly to the Met would suggest there is approximately $106 million in the fund currently (a bit less if there were unusual expenses one year). If the party continues on the financial trajectory it has set for another two to four years, that would easily ensure enough capitol in the fund to allow the department to essentially live off the interest going forward. “It is important for the Costume Institute, as it is for every department at the Met, that we do not spend all of the money raised annually,” said Max Hollein, the director and chief executive of the Met. The goal, he said, is “saving and investing funds so that the museum can be prepared for future challenges as well as cost increases.” The Met’s overall operating costs were $427.6 million in the 2025 fiscal year, the last reported period, and that includes 17 different curatorial departments with widely varying budgets. Many departments also have their own directed endowments, including gifts earmarked for acquisitions or curatorial positions. The Annenberg Foundation grant, for example, awarded in 2001, gave the museum $10 million to create a fund for the acquisition of European paintings, drawings, prints, sculptures and decorative arts. What made the Costume Institute an anomaly in the museum ecosystem was that it raised most of its money via a party — one that had increasingly overshadowed almost every other activity of the museum itself, and that, like Wintour’s daytime employer, Condé Nast, seemed increasingly reliant on her presence and power . And though Wintour has been quick to say she is not going anywhere, she is 76 and last year relinquished day-to-day control of American Vogue to focus on her role as Condé’s chief content officer. “Anna Wintour is not replaceable,” said William Norwich, the editor for fashion and interior design at Phaidon Press and a former editor at Vogue. (In recognition of her efforts, the downstairs Costume Institute galleries were christened the Anna Wintour Costume Center in 2014.) Also, because the gala traditionally inaugurates a blockbuster exhibition, it by definition requires that the Costume Institute put on a major show every year, rather than adhere to the more traditional schedule of smaller shows with one mega-show every other year or every three years. That creates what Bolton described as “enormous pressure” for the department. And the party has increasingly become a lightning rod for uncomfortable discussions about social and financial inequality. Since 2021, there have been protests around the event over police brutality, climate change and the war in Gaza. This year, posters have gone up calling for a boycott because of the involvement of Jeff Bezos, the evening’s honorary chair and main sponsor, pointing to allegations of worker exploitation, among other issues. Zohran Mamdani, the mayor of New York, has publicly announced he is not going to attend. Allowing the gala’s profile and profit goals (the party raised $31 million in 2025) to be downsized would take some of the pressure and attention off the museum and the brands that have supported it. Many of them have begun privately bemoaning the expense of the party, which involves not just buying tickets but also paying for celebrity guests to fly in with their entourages, stay in five-star hotels, wear custom looks and have their hair and makeup done. (This year’s fashion sponsor, Saint Laurent, is underwriting only the exhibition catalog.) Especially as the luxury industry enters a period of slower growth. Still, Norwich said he doubted it would ever go entirely away. “There is an ongoing human need and fascination for such parties,” Norwich said. “Celebrity and fashion and the sparklers will always need to be seen in order to be believed and in order to be distinguished from the crowds.” In any case, even once the endowment is complete, more fund-raising will always be required. Operating costs continue to rise, there are special one-off investments required to maintain and expand a department, and the major exhibitions themselves require their own sponsors. But the amounts involved will not be as onerous, or as imperative. Indeed, it seems the very reason for the price inflation may have been to anticipate a time when it will no longer be necessary. In a texted statement, Wintour simply said, “As a Met trustee, I have always felt strongly that the Costume Institute must stand on a solid footing.” Now it is almost there. Which means, when it comes to the party, “it’ll be interesting to see how it’s going to evolve,” Bolton said. submitted by /u/ThrowawayGreenWitch to r/popculturechat [link] [comments]

I am moving to a new place. This is my first time moving to an unfurnished unit. I have a standing desk and a chair. I also have a few Walmart "drawers" (plastic ones). I'm a single woman and do not have any pets. My other challenge: I don't drive and do not have a car. Ontario. I want to buy furniture for the place I'm moving to, but I don't want to spend too much money. I'm thinking maximum $500-$600, for the following: - Bed frame + mattress (I am willing to pay more for mattress only, so consider that separate) - Bedside table ---> can get cheap storage from Walmart - Bookcase ---> second hand - Desk (I want to separate my work desk with my studying, writing, eating desk) - Chair for said desk (don't plan on sitting on it for long hours, so any chair will do) - Outdoor furniture for balcony (only if I can find secondhand for $30) - Dresser (I have a big closet, but would like to have a space to put underwear and such in) - Sofa (This is a luxury, not necessary - 3 seater: I want to be able to lay on this and read a book. I'm fairly tiny at 5'2, so a smaller one would do too) - Coffee table (only second hand) How realistic is this? Anyone has any tips? Places to look for? I'm very worried about bugs so I'm afraid of buying second hand sofa and maybe even wooden furniture. Any tips for that? The bigger things I need to order/have delivered since I don't have a car, but the smaller pieces I can move myself (worse case I'll take an Uber XL). submitted by /u/HalfChewedGum94 to r/PersonalFinanceCanada [link] [comments]

Article link https://www.dishadaily.com/andhrapradesh/the-high-court-expressed-anger-over-the-allocation-of-land-in-visakhapatnam-and-issued-notices-to-abn-radhakrishna-520951 submitted by /u/Black_noir_94 to r/andhra_pradesh [link] [comments]

I've been saying for ages that I want to start investing, but I never seem to have anything left at the end of the month. So I'm setting myself a challenge for February: take one action every day that saves me money. The rules are simple - it can be anything from switching a provider, cancelling unused or unwanted subscriptions, meal prepping instead of buying lunch, or finding a cheaper alternative to something I already pay for. If it saves me money, it counts. Day 1: Switched from Airtricity to Yuno using bonkers.ie. Still in the process of moving over, but based on my usage, this should save me around €500 this year. I'll update this thread each day with what I did. Some days might be big wins, others might only save me a few quid, but it all adds up. Would love to hear your tips and hacks I could try. What's the one switch or change that's saved you the most money? And if anyone fancies joining me for the month, let's do it together - drop your Day 1 action below! submitted by /u/TedMoneyMadeSimple to r/irishpersonalfinance [link] [comments]

I’m torn between buying a Coach Tabby 20 bag or just putting the money into my stocks and shares ISA. submitted by /u/Ok-Situation-1042 to r/monzo [link] [comments]

I drive 90 miles round trip for work every day. In Alaska. Where gas is expensive. Where winter is brutal. Where a vehicle needs to actually work, not just look good. So in 2023, I bought a 2020 Toyota Prius. Paid cash. About $24k after trade in. Gave the wife my truck. Yeah, I went from a truck to a Prius. Why a Prius? Simple: I needed a fuel-efficient car that would last. The Ram was getting 19 mpg on the highway. The Prius gets 54 mpg on the highway. Let's do the math: 90 miles per day x 5 days per week x 50 weeks per year = 22,500 miles per year Ram 1500: 22,500 miles / 19 mpg = 1,184 gallons per year 1,184 gallons x $4.50/gallon (Alaska prices) = $5,328 per year Prius: 22,500 miles / 54 mpg = 417 gallons per year 417 gallons x $4.50/gallon = $1,877 per year Savings: $3,451 per year The Prius pays for itself in gas savings in about 7 years. But here's the thing: I plan to drive this car to 200,000 miles. It had 35,000 miles when I bought it. It's close to 90,000 now. That means I have at least 110,000 miles left. At my current driving rate, that's about 5 more years. Total gas savings over the life of the car: over $17,000. That's real money. That's money I'm not burning in a gas tank just to look cool driving a truck. But It's Alaska. How Does It Handle Winter? It's all-wheel drive. With a good pair of winter tires, this thing tears up every challenging road I've put it on. I was skeptical. I thought: "There's no way a Prius works in Alaska winter." I was wrong. It works. Better than expected. It hasn’t met a road it can’t handle yet. The Social Perception I'm sure people have judged me for driving a Prius. But not to my face. And honestly? I could not care less I do not need a car for status. It's a thing that gets me to and from places. I made an intentional and practical decision to go with this car. Sure, I could have gone with a BMW or something flashier. But that would have been for someone else's approval, not my actual needs. This was intentional. I need a car that's reasonable to maintain, will last a long time, and is fuel efficient. The Prius checks all three boxes. The Philosophy Unfortunately—or fortunately, depending on how you look at it—the US depends on cars. For most of the country, you need one. So I want one that I can use without spending a lot of money on it. Yes, cars depreciate. Yes, it's a "bad investment." But I paid cash, so no interest payments. And Toyotas hold their value as well as any other brand out there. I'm not trying to impress anyone with my car. I'm trying to get to work, save money on gas, and not worry about it breaking down. That's intentional luxury. Quality and practicality over flash and status. Would I Do It Again? Absolutely. submitted by /u/Imr2394 to r/leanfire [link] [comments]

about a month ago i noticed a pattern: i wasn’t buying things because i needed them, i was buying them because something old broke or didn’t feel “new” anymore. socks got a hole? replace. pan handle loose? replace. vacuum filter clogged? replace. so i decided to run an experiment: for 30 days, i wouldn’t replace anything. no new gadgets, no “it’s on sale anyway” purchases, nothing. if something stopped working, i had to fix, patch, borrow, or live without it. the first week was rough. my kettle started rusting and i almost hit checkout on a new one—but instead i looked up “remove rust with vinegar + baking soda” and it actually worked. week 2, one of my sneakers split at the sole. super glue + a night of pressure clamps = perfectly wearable. week 3, i wanted to buy new t-shirts because mine looked worn out. i learned how to run a quick color-restore wash and hang-dry instead of the dryer. boom—shirts looked fine. by week 4 i was weirdly enjoying it. i felt proud every time i fixed something instead of clicking “buy again.” in total, i saved around $180 that month compared to my usual spend, but the bigger win was realizing how reflexive “replacement culture” is. most of my stuff didn’t need upgrading...it needed attention. wanna know if anyone here has tried something similar. what’s the longest you’ve gone without buying replacements, and what hacks or fixes surprised you most? submitted by /u/s40s to r/Frugal [link] [comments]

Hi BWT, I’ve come across a lot of NYC specific apps and promos lately where you can save quite a bit of money on dining out in the city. Wanted to share the wealth because this city is expensive!!!! Note: I have codes to most of these apps for extra $ off, but Reddit doesn’t allow referral links to be posted so comment or DM me if you want!! Blackbird: I’ve just started using this one and it’s definitely VC backed because it’s the craziest deal I’ve seen. I used it for the first time last night and with a referral bonus and “challenge” in app, I now have $91 to use on my next affiliated restaurant visit!!!! They’re also currently running a challenge for a bonus $50 after your first spend. MealPal: classic subscription plan to save a bit of money if you get lunch out during the workweek. I’m not a picky eater, so it works for me and it pays for itself (I got the first month half off and now on the $89/month plan which gets you 8-12 meals). Nora Health: they offer cash back mainly at healthy fast casual places like ThisBowl, Pura Vida, Springbone, and Glaze. I go to all of those places a lot so it’s nice to get a few bucks back each time, and they send it right to you on Venmo. You just link your primary card and your Venmo, so it’s passive cash back! Claim: they do one promo for you every Thursday that gives you cash back via Venmo for spending at one of 3 options provided to you at a given time. I’ve gotten Blank Street, Bareburger, Glaze, Honeygrow, Chip City, Avo, and Spirals before. Wonder: it’s a VC-backed food hall that has locations all over the city, and they’re pretty aggressive in their customer acquisition strategy. Whether you want salads, Mexican, pizza, or BBQ, you can go in person or get it delivered. InKind: very similar to Blackbird in that you pay your bill via the app and the discounts are pretty crazy (starting at 20% off). Seated: I was actually banned from this one for accidentally uploading two of the same receipt lol, but it’s cash back at certain restaurants and when they “surge” it can be 20% back or more, and you redeem cash back for gift cards. I miss it Storytime: I haven’t been invited to join this one yet, but if anyone has a code or a way in please let me know! They partner with local businesses to give you gift cards or comped meals in exchange for an instagram story. Eligible only if you have over 2k instagram followers. Too Good To Go: they’re an environmentally focused app that focuses on saving restaurant food from the landfill. They offer these really cheap surprise bags for $5-8 at popular places like Eataly, Dig Inn, Ole & Steen, and more. Ritual: they cater towards the work in office crowd and give you rewards based on loyalty, and often offer promos to get more points that you can redeem in-app for dollars off your meals. The Infatuation / Chase Promo: if you’re a Chase Sapphire Preferred cardholder, they’re running a promo where if you go to one of their Link & Dine restaurants until October 16 and spend at least $150 in a sit-down visit, you get $75 back as a statement credit (one time only). I need to use it ASAP! Delivery app promos: I’ve found that BOGO offers that you can pick up are often the best at places like Lenwich. 50% off delivery when you’re splitting with another person or more can be worth it too. Restaurant / cafe apps: self-explanatory, but places will often give you a freebie or special offer just for signing up with them directly because they don’t need to lose a cut of the profits from any of the apps listed above. Happy eating & saving!!!!! submitted by /u/elenaclaire828 to r/NYCbitcheswithtaste [link] [comments]

Hey r/digitalnomad! My wife and I took the leap in March 2018 when I was 37. If you'd told me back then that we'd end up island-hopping through the Caribbean, getting stuck in Bali during COVID, and figuring out how to make a living on the road, I would've thought you were crazy. We've slow-traveled through 20+ countries now, with our path winding all over the globe. Here's a breakdown of where we've been and for how long: The Americas & Caribbean North & Central America: We spent 3 months in Costa Rica, 2 months in Canada, and a month each in Panama and the incredible Alaskan wilderness. The Caribbean: This was a year of island-hopping! We spent 2 months in Guadeloupe and about a month each in Cuba, Jamaica, the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, Barbados, Saint Lucia, Dominica, Martinique, and Sint Maarten. South America: We took a month for each country to explore Peru, Chile, and Argentina. Asia & Oceania Asia: This region has been our primary home base. We've spent 5+ years in Bali (Indonesia) during COVID, 6 months in Vietnam, 4 months in Thailand, and 1 month exploring Japan. Oceania: A beautiful month on the islands of Hawaii, USA. Europe Europe: Our most recent long stint was 3 months in Germany. Up next: 6 months of sun and hiking in the Canary Islands! This isn't my first time living abroad, either. I spent half a year in Bali way back in 2006 (before "digital nomadism" was a thing) and worked in an IT leadership role in Thailand in 2016. Those experiences definitely planted the seed. The money stuff: Our journey to a sustainable income had a few phases: Phase 1 (Savings): We started with savings from our corporate days. Being disciplined about putting money away funded roughly our first two years. Phase 2 (The Build): By late 2019, we started building a solution to a problem we constantly faced: spending endless hours researching destinations. We ended up creating a travel data platform to scratch our own itch. COVID gave us a stable and affordable base in Bali to really focus on it. Phase 3 (Sustainable): We launched it publicly in 2023, and it has thankfully grown to become our main income source today. Some things I've learned that might be useful: The hardest part isn't logistics - it's loneliness. Visas are a puzzle (especially long-term Bali), but maintaining real relationships when you're always moving is the real challenge. We've had to get really intentional about it. A partner is a cheat code to be mentally stable, but communication is the challenge. When you're stuck in a tiny Airbnb with bad wifi, your relationship skills get tested real quick. "Sustainable nomadism" is a proactive choice, not just a goal. We learned to travel slower, maintain routines (exercise, sleep!), and recognize when we just need a break. We also design our budget now around our minimum life requirements, instead of just trying to earn more to consume more. The "what if I get sick?" question is very real. On the road, we've navigated my wife's shoulder surgery, my skin cancer treatment, and just last year, a major hip surgery for me. That last one happened weeks before we were due to leave Bali after five years. The pressure to recover was intense, and I was barely off crutches when we flew. These crises taught us more about resilience and facing adversity far from home than anything else. Bali during COVID was the ultimate test. It was simultaneously the most isolated and most connected we've ever felt to a community. It taught us a ton about resilience. I'm 44 now, and this has been the most challenging and rewarding chapter of our lives. Happy to answer questions about budgeting as a couple, building a business while traveling, visa strategies, how we choose destinations, or staying sane on the road. Ask me anything! submitted by /u/shooting_star_s to r/digitalnomad [link] [comments]

I got married last month and though obviously I am overjoyed to be married to the love of my life, the actual wedding weekend did not go smoothly. I wanted to share a few reflections in the hopes that other people in my same position (a huge family, not a lot of money available, time pressure to get married) can avoid making the same mistakes I did. Some background: due to an immigration situation my husband and I had to get married before a certain deadline. We both have giant families, both of whom live here in the US, but we didn’t have much savings. Because of the immigration situation we couldn’t push back the wedding. We felt lots of family pressure to do a traditional-ish wedding and invite everyone from both families. After a lot of back and forth, we decided to only get a few vendors but DIY as much as we could. We also hosted a rehearsal dinner for all out of town guests because that is the expectation in our culture. Total cost was about 15k in a HCOL city. We had 75 attendees. Here are my biggest regrets: We tried to do an “appetizers only” rehearsal dinner event, with some heavy apps and a 2-drink limit at the bar. People got hungry and started leaving early to get food in their own friend groups, which kind of defeated the mingling goals we had for the event. I overheard conversations among guests during the event asking if there would be more food which made me feel bad bc there was little I could do at that point. I wish I’d either spent the money to do a real dinner - even just a buffet! - or not had an event at all. We hosted the actual wedding in the backyard of my family friend’s home for free. We had enough space but obviously had to rent everything - tent, bathrooms, you name it. It caused a big strain on my relationship with the friend because using her home as a space ended up being way more intense and high drama than I thought. And the tent delivery man damaged her garage :( Related to the above, I put my friends in charge of the decor. Because they weren’t professionals they sunk a ton of time into doing decor that was gorgeous but also cause a little bit of damage to the yard. This was challenging. My family wound up being my vendors so the whole week leading up to the event, they were all super stressed about all the DIY stuff getting done. It now makes me sad that they spent my wedding week that way. I actually don’t know if my wedding was fun for them? There was an insane amount of cleanup that, again, fell to my friends/family and I felt pressured to get it done literally the next day bc it was all at a friend’s home. Overall I wish I had either cut the guest list in half or just had a microwedding or something. Trying to do a “full” wedding with that many in a HCOL city just meant my friends and family had to put up with a lot and that took away from my enjoyment of the event. I wish someone had told me things would turn out like this. I know I’ll feel better with time but for now I’m just sad. submitted by /u/queerthrowaway385938 to r/weddingplanning [link] [comments]

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Could be good crazy like “wow what a great idea” or not your cup of tea crazy . Everyone is in different circumstances of life so for me (recovering from chronic fatigue) people who work side hustles after a normal job to make money to save. Absolutely mind boggling to think of myself being able to do since getting through the work day itself is a challenge. submitted by /u/RaddishEater666 to r/MoneyDiariesACTIVE [link] [comments]

I like to start with a January challenge (i.e. dry January) and then carry it on if it’s been good! So does anyone have any ideas for a money-saving challenge to do for 2024 / start for month of January? submitted by /u/amacurious1 to r/Frugal [link] [comments]

The algorithms like to try to feed me videos/articles about how we can save money growing our own food. I know it's just clickbait, but I was wondering if any of you have actually found this to be true - especially those of you who have established gardens and actually know what you're doing. This is the close of my first year of gardening. I'm enjoying it very much, but I am definitely in the red, even if I ignore the things I experimented with and didn't like. Since I view this as a hobby that's fun, a challenge, and a way to stay active, that's fine. I also know that setup costs have to be paid up front but hopefully will balance out over future years. submitted by /u/ObsessiveAboutCats to r/vegetablegardening [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/seaofmagdalene to r/Fauxmoi [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/The_Majestic_ to r/newzealand [link] [comments]

Now I realize this is going to stroke some of you the wrong way. The more you hate this message, the more this message is adressed towards you. Keep reading if you dare risk some cognitive dissonance but hopefully add some wrinkles and increase your chances of lasting wealth. ​ Looks at all these bananas. This monkey has no problems right? NO WRONG! Some basic truths - Money does not solve your problems Yes, it's true I'm afraid. Money does not solve your problems."But Damsell, my problems are mainly that I cannot afford x, y and z... how can money not solve that.."I know dear ape, money will definitely solve THOSE problems. I'm just saying that new problems will replace your current problems. You will face new psychological pressure, fears, highs and lows. It will be difficult to maintain current relationships and even harder to acquire new ones. You can feel uncomfortably different from your friends and you're afraid to tell them how you feel about your new status. Being wealthy can make for more guilt than pleasure. Instead of feeling powerful and decisive, you can feel paralyzed and unable to decide how to spend your money. You can't stand the envy of friends and acquaintances -- you can find yourself becoming more isolated. You feel like you don't quite deserve the money and you can't believe it's really yours. You suffer from "ticker shock" and become obsessed with watching the stock market. You're afraid that you'll lose your money and your good fortune will simply vanish overnight. You can become paranoid and think everyone interacting with you is doing so because of your money, causing you to have trust issues. I'd say many apes already have this, let's see how long it takes before I am called a shill in the comments. You can become demotivated and depressed. Why do anything? You have no reason to get out of bed. You can lie here for weeks and nothing would go wrong for you. Rent will still be paid etc. You will likely feel like spending your money is the only thing that gives you pleasure. Purchases that make you absolutely sallivate now are going to grow old on you QUICK. Seriously.. that car you've been dreaming of the last 20 years? It's just another car emotionally satisfaction-wise after a few months. And guess what your impulse is going to be? Spend some more! This is a vicious cycle that will drain your money quick. Monkey with bad habits ​ - Money does not make you a better person "Once I'll have money I clean up my act, I'll stop drinking too much, I'll stop smoking, I'll start a business, I'll clean my house, I'll do the lawn, I'll fold away this laundry, I'll do this, I'll do that." Give me a break. No you wont. There is nothing stopping you now from doing most of those things and you're doing nothing now. Hell most of you are doing little more than smoking weed, laying back and watching the ticker all day. That's not going to change if you suddenly have a lot of money, it's going to get worse. Having money is going to kill all your motivation if you have a personality that has low motivation to begin with. Quit smoking? "Pff what is a few dollars a day on a pack of smokes. I have millions!" Stop drinking too much? "It's ok if I have a hangover tomorrow, I have nowhere to go and I can pay for it. It's a very nice bottle of Scotch so it's a waste not to drink it" Starting a business? "Meeh I'm not going to absolutely work my ass off. I have it made already. Why would I put in 80 hours a week to launch a business". You're going to end up making this a money pit. You start with the right intentions, but you don't have the motivation or the pressure to follow through and it's going to end up costing you money. - All your current shortcomings and faults will be amplified If you have a tendency for procrastination, you'll become a master procrastinator once you're rich. If you have a tendency to drink too much, you'll go full blown alchoholic once you're rich. If you have a smoking addiction, you'll smoke more once you're rich If you're lazy, you'll become more lazy after you're rich. If you smoke too much weed, you'll never stop smoking once you're rich. If you have a drug addiction, you'll not stop using untill you win the premature room temperature challenge or run out of money. If you have a sex addiction, guess what! You can pay for sex non-stop now and let me tell you there are expensive sexual partners out there. If you have trouble having genuine relationships, you'll have more trouble finding and maintaining those once you're rich. If you have anxiety, you'll have waaaaay more of that once you're rich. You have about a million more reasons to worry about once you're rich. If you have a tendency to be arrogant, show off and/or overcompensate for a small genital situation you'll do that MORE after you are rich. You have poor self control? Guess what, that too, gets worse with money. In short, despite this already crippling list, the only thing that is going to save you is IRON CLAD PERSONAL GROWTH AND DEVELOPMENT. You're going to have to be your own parent. It's time to become an adult and do it fast. Straighten up. Another bad monkey with bad habits Some harsh truths So the previous parts were already pretty harsh. And those were the nice ones. Can you imagine?This, my friends, is where I'm not going to make friends. I don't care. I'll take the rage downvotes, as long as one ape actually understands what I'm saying here. ​ - Stopping with work at an age below 40 is not going to make you happy It won't. You may enjoy taking half a year off. Maybe you even should do that, especially if you've been unhappily employed for a few years already. But tell yourself this isn't going to last. You're not even going to be able to and you'll know why if you keep reading. - Having a large sum of money does NOT increase your earning potential Any which way you put it, even a large sum of money is an limited supply unless you have income.Divide your money by your monthly expenditure and you can predict how much time you have before you're back to zero. If you currently have a low income, that's because you do not have any marketable skills, qualities or knowledge recognized by employers or the market. If you have a minimum wage income job now, having a big pile of cash isn't going to change how employers view your value. This is not mean, this is not angry capitalism, it's simply that you need skills, knowledge and experience that make you valuable to qualify for a well-paid job. If you have failed to gain OR market those skills untill now, this will remain the same after you're rich. (Unless you're going to grow personally big time) If you have none of those currently, you will still have none of those after you become a millionaire.That means your pile of cash is going to run out quicker than people who do have money-earning capabilities and skills. Your ONLY chance at long term financial wealth post-squeeze is to be careful with your money. There is a ONE TIME influx of cash and you have to make it last. Despite the cash, you will still need to be frugal. Read on in the "How to manage a large sum of money sustainably" chapter. - If you've never had money before, you are inexperienced and likely to make BAD decisions with money. You've earned this money if you held during all the uncertainty, don't get me wrong. What we're doing is a massive accomplishment of pure will, self-control and dedication. Big ups to you apes. You have the right to feel proud about this. It would be unfair to compare this with a lottery pay-out, HOWEVER. The point I'm making with this comparison is that people who've not had money before and who suddenly come into large sums of money make bad decisions and end up losing it all and sometimes more in short periods of time. How bad? A staggering 70% of lottery winners end up broke WITHIN 5 YEARS. A further 30% declare bankruptcy. Why? They make toxic investments, they are surrounded by people who want their money, they spend like crazy thinking big numbers are endless, they quickly change their lifestyle, they do not have an income to sustain their lifestyle. In short, they do not know how to handle money. The same goes for athletes. 78% of NFL players have gone bankrupt or are under financial stress during retirement. Within 5 years of retirement 60% of NFL players are broke. These people have decades of making millions a year and they still manage to blow it! "Ha but they are dumb! Not me, that's not going to happen to me Damsel."No I'm very sorry. Statistics say you ARE dumb. Not as a person, but just dumb with money.I'm not making an assesment of value saying that, I'm just saying on the front of handling money you are most likely dumb. - Most of you think you're going to increase your lifestyle a hundred fold after the MOASS. You're not and if you do you're going to lose it ALL quick. Yup. I just threw a spanner in your clockwork. You may be millionaires, but you wont be living like one. Sorry. You can very likely forget about mansions, Lamborghini's, boats and $50k watches like I've seen most of you fantasizing about. The amount of money in your account is not going to determine what your life looks like. It's the income that you have that determines what your life looks like. Luckily, you can make money make money for you, so you are likely going to have a big passive income boost but you'll likely still income from employment OR you're going to keep living normally. If you buy a big house, guess what, that comes with big taxes! And guess what, you have to pay those every year, not just once. This is going to drain you financially faster than you can say "Chapter 7 bankruptcy". And that house isn't going to keep it's value unless you maintain it immaculately. Guess what? That costs money too! Are you going to do all that yardwork? No? Do you know what gardeners cost? That fancy car/boat you're fantasizing about? Have you ever heard of depreciation? As soon as you drive it off the lot, expect 30% of the purchase value to dissapear. On 300k Lambo that's 100k INSTANTLY gone. Congrats, you've lost more in 30 minutes that you've ever made in a single year untill now. Do you know what the maintenance on these things costs?! Dealers charge hundreds of dollars per hour in labor and don't get me started on the parts. Oh and guess what, the maintenance scheduel is different than your current Camry. They require service every year, or every 15.000 miles. Some of those services likely need to engine to come out so that's a $8k service right here. Tires are more expensive, and it's a sportscar so you're going to drive it sportily. That means you're going to be spending your current minimum wage on tires alone every few months. And the fun part is, if you don't do all these expensive maintenance things you'll depreciate the car even faster! Yay! Long story short, BUYING expensive things isn't the hard part. The hard part is paying for the maintenance, upkeep, taxes and other operational expenditures. This will drain your lump of money quicker and because you're a simple ape you have no income to compensate for that. So you don't get to do it. I'll explain more in the "how to manage a large sum of money sustainably" header. Sad monkey looking at his pp MOASS happened, what now? Ok there is a few easy steps here. Step one: SHUT. THE. FUCK. UP. Yes you read that right. Shut your fucking mouth. Don't tell anyone.No boasting on social media, no flapping wads of cash on Instagram, no tiktoks with a rolex around your limp wiener (or whatever you kids do nowadays online). Don't tell your friends, don't tell your family, don't tell ANYONE. If you absolutely want to share, do so with one or two people that know how to shut the fuck up and DONT give them any numbers. You can say it's a lot of money, but you don't tell them if it's 80k or 80 million. Seriously. Get this through your ape skull. Shut the fuck up. **Step two: DONT. SPEND. A. FUCKING. PENNY. SERIOUSLY.**We're now going to get you accustomed to the new situation in your life.Before you get all giddy. Keep that wallet closed. It's yours, but it's not yours to spend yet.No wild shopping sprees. Seriously. Step three: Gather a team to help you manage your financial reality The first person you tell is a financial advisor.Tell him that you need a lawyer, a fiduciary financial advisor, and a tax expert.Assemble this team. Talk to multiple people, don't just hire the first jackass that knows you have big money and who's going to sweet talk you into doing business with him. You need to feel comfortable around all of these people, personally and professionally.They're going to be your guardians against yourself, and you need to be able to hear from that your stupid is showing. Step four: TAXES BITCH Pay taxes. This is likely the first thing that your new expert team will help you with.With big money comes big taxes. It could be 50% or more of what you made. Seriously. Step five: PLAN how to spend your money. I don't care if you think you only have to plan money if you have little of it. That's bullshit.If you have a lot of money you will need to plan MORE. Create a "Wealth longevity" plan with your team.How much can you spend per month, what steps are you going to take to make money with your money, what are realistic returns, what can you spend on a house, what on transportation and what on charity, friends and family IF any. Step six: FOLLOW the plan. See this is where you get to show you're an adult. Yes there's a few million in the bank but you're not going to impulse buy this perfect example of the classic car you've always wanted because you already spent this months budget on a new gaming PC, mortgage and(or whatever). You do not get to cheat. "Oh ill just spend the extra little bit now, and next month I wont spend anything". Yeah right, give me a break bitch. If you didn't have the self-control this month you won't the next either. YOU DO NOT EXCEED YOUR BUDGET. How to handle large sums of money sustainably. See I'm not a financial advisor right so don't take my advice but I did transition from very poor to 'very well off' about 8 years back. Most of the things I'm talking about are things that I personally experienced and I too, needed extensive personal growth to make my new situation work. I made some of the mistakes listed here. It's not about ragging on you, it's about making you a better ape. So what should you realistically expect after MOASS? What will your life look like? 1% of your total money AFTER taxes can be splurged.Yup. Seriously. Only 1%. For every hypothetical million you can splurge $10k.That's a one time "lets celebrate" allotment. Not a recurring per month, not a recurring yearly thing. You can celebrate with a few purchases, but you're going to need your money bad. Read on to know why. You do not have any ways of income, other than interest of your money. Live off it.If you have 1 million dollars and you invest it WISELY with your new team that you assembled you can realistically accumulate 5% of growth per year. That means that you DO NOT GET TO TOUCH ANY OF YOUR MONEY. That's 50k of years in gains. If you spend all of the 50k you'll get poorer every year because of inflation. The inflation will likely be around 2%, so you can only take out three fifths of your yearly gains to live off. That's only $30k in passive income per million dollars of money invested. Unless you're planning to live like the most frugal millionare ever, you'll likely need to work to supplement your income. Your income determines what you can live like.With only $30k per year in passive income per million you're looking at a very simple lifestyle. If you can add $30k per year in income from work now you have 60k to live off. That's comfortable, but still nowhere near Lamborghini income. Forget about it. Any extreme purchases will drain your money quick and you'll will end every year negative. ​ TL;DR No, fuck you. This is exactly what I'm talking about. Stop looking for the easy way, you need to develop yourself personally. Force yourself to actually read this. Be an adult for fuck sake. Closing words So in short apes. I love you and I want to see you succeed with money.What I'm suggesting here is maybe more boring than you were hoping for, but it's simple reality.There is no escaping it. Having a lot of money is not a guarantee that you get to spend a lot of money.Your income matters, not what's in the bank. Frankly, I don't care if you hate me after reading this. **I'm not your momma.**I'm going to tell you things you need to hear, instead of what you want to hear. If you really want to learn how to improve yourself, and grow personally I recommend reading this article. When it first got published, and thats many moons ago, I was a teenager with no goals in life, angry at the fact that I was likely never going to succeed and blaming it on everyone except for myself. This article, after some digesting, made it 'click' for me. https://www.cracked.com/blog/6-harsh-truths-that-will-make-you-better-person Be awesome! If you follow my advice your will be this happy monkey in a few years. submitted by /u/Damsellindistress to r/Superstonk [link] [comments]

Edit: Probably going to be a truckload of downvotes due to the title. Do your worst. But for newbies to leanfire I think it's helpful to think this way. I'm not trying to say I earn $500 an hour 40 hours a week, but rather that's how much I earned for some of the hours I spent reducing my expenses. Can't change the title now though. So I just wanted to share this info because it's so exciting to me. I've already hit leanfire with my average spending being about $1000 a month. But ever since I got into being frugal I have to say it's actually more fun then when I was earning big bucks. Every time I figure out a way to save money it's like hitting a little jackpot at the casino (I don't gamble, just illustrating the feeling). So here are some ways I've found since I hit leanfire (about 9 months ago) 1) Cut my own hair. Savings ($25 per month, $300 per year, $1,500 in 5 years). I did this pre-corona but it ended up having a 2 fold benefit for me. Obviously it was required for a lot of people with corona, but the reason I did it because I HATE getting a haircut. I'm a guy, and maybe that's part of it, but I just don't like waiting around, then having them do a so-so job. Plus, now it takes me 30 minutes, instead of a hour (with 15 minutes both ways). It's a little challenging at first, but people say they don't notice anything different. 2) Switching from TMobile to Mint Mobile ($95 per month, $1,140 per year, $5,700 in 5 years) - This was a huge win for me. I found out that they both use the same network... I tried it out without switching my phone over. Now I pay (20 a month * 2) + ($15 a month that TMobile was paying for my netflix account). So $55 a month now vs 140 a month before! This was my biggest win by far but it was so satisfying. I love the service (and the app is better than TMobile. I have 8 gigs of data a month, which is fine. I'm cutting it close sometimes, but still I'm doing good on that. My total expenses for the year are only 12k, so saving $1,140 a year is an ENTIRE MONTH for me. 3) Down grade my Internet plan ($27 per month, $324 per year, $1,600 in 5 years). I had Comcast's 100 mbps plan when I really only needed 25. Max streams we have at one time is 2, and that isn't too often. So now I'll be on their lowest plan. Isn't that great though? Finding savings where you didn't really know you could? Literally nothing changes for me and I'm gonna save a lot. This took about 20 minutes to figure out and change. And considering it will earn me $324 a year, doing the math that comes out to $972 an hour as far as the rate I'm earning for my time. Being conscious of your spending and whittling down expenses has a ridiculously high rate of return. 4) Buying my own router ($15 per month, $180 per year, $900 in 5 years) - While I was checking my internet services I realized that I was renting that stupid Comcast Modem. I went online to see if there was a good replacement. Sure enough, for $120 I could get a great one and it would pay for itself in 9 months. But instead being the cheap sucker that I am, I decided to buy a used one from Amazon Warehouse for $60. Sure it's gonna be beat up, but I could buy 2 for that price. So even if it only lasts for a year I can buy another similar one for that price. Win! (Note, it will take 4 months to break even on it, but after that total profit). Took about an hour, so 180/hr! 5) Turning my coffee marker off when not in use ($40 a month, $480 a year, $2,400 in 5 years) - So this began as an investigation as to why my electric bill was so high. I started going out to the meter and literally using a stop watch to see how fast the meter was spinning per minute. As I was doing that I noticed that it starts FLYING ahead (1 rotation was taking 60 seconds, then it went to taking 2 seconds!!!!). I couldn't understand what was going on. So I started looking up the watts on things I use. 300w or so for the fridge, can't do much about that. Then I came to the coffee maker. 900watts!!! And we leave it on all the time. My dad and I drink coffee, at least a pot and a half of coffee a day each (yes it's a lot I know lol). But if you do the math 900 watts * lets say 20 hours a day * .16 cents per watt (which I pay), comes to $86.50 a month. JUST ON MY STUPID COFFEE MAKER. I had no idea! So the solution was to get a big restaurant sized thermos so after we use it we can stick it in there and it keeps it pretty hot for quite a while. CRAZY that this could have been the cause of my high utility bill. Took like 3 hours to figure out. So 'only' $160/hr (https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/maps/appliance-energy-calculator) 6) Change my own oil ($40 savings quarterly, $160 per year, $800 in 5 years). I was always a cheap sucker, so when I was 18, with no knowledge I went and changed my brakes on my own, calipers and roters as well. This led to fixing things like Alternators and starters. (Brakes one time were going to $1,700, I did it for $225). I always avoided doing oil because it's a dirty process, which it is, but it takes nearly 2 hours at the dealership where as it takes me about 45 mins to do it myself. I hate waiting lol. The savings is even larger if you are working. It took about $100 in parts (ramps and stuff), so it'll take a few times of doing it to break even. But the hour I get back is invaluable. 7) Signed up for an Amazon credit card ($100). They had a free promotion where you get $100 if you sign up. You don't get a physical card, it's just used for amazon purchases. I'll never use it, but it's awesome I got it for free! Total Savings per year: $2,584 So literally without giving up much, and not even counting the savings I got by time saved, I am saving $216 a month or almost $2,600 a year. In just 5 years that'll be $13,000 (more if you invest it). When you figure that my yearly burn is $12,000 that is a 21% savings on my whole year expenses. With that money I could buy all new furniture, a small boat, many great TV's, a new computer or two, a cheap car payment or probably a million other things. In my case I'm just gonna invest it probably, but really this didn't take me that long and now I'm gonna save a bundle. I love it! So yeah, that's it. I honestly didn't need any of these savings, but being ultra frugal is fun in and of itself. Now I have a $800 a month burn instead of $1000. Hope this helps some of you! It was a really great feeling for me! Happy savings! submitted by /u/UsuallyMooACow to r/leanfire [link] [comments]

For the past two years, I’ve been sleeping in my car to save money for a home loan deposit. I have a white collar job, perfectly able to pay rent, but it was taking up such a huge chunk of my pay that I decided to explore different options. After a few months of research and planning, I fitted out my car, made some basic mods, and made the switch. It was far easier than I thought it would be. I came up with this idea after seeing how people in Silicon Valley - tech employees - are living in motorhomes to save on extreme rents. There’s also the van life movement. But I knew I had to do things differently since neither motorhomes nor big vans are very common in Australia. I focused on being very incognito. My car was a normal car like any other. I park in different places each week, always in nice neighbourhoods with lots of cars on the street, and made sure my car was clean inside and out. It’s not illegal at the state level (in NSW, at least) to sleep in your car, but many councils have enforceable rules against it (due to backpackers/campervans). Compared to all these other approaches, I wasn’t really ‘living’ in the car. I had no fridge, no cooking, no heating. It was more like sleeping in a tent, which was actually really nice and cozy a lot of the time. The basics (pre-COVID, of course) are like this: I only sleep in the car. I wake up in the morning, slip into my gym clothes, and then head straight to the gym for a workout. I shower and get dressed at the gym. Alternatively, if I’m not working out that morning, I can head straight to the office and use the end of trip facilities in the basement, where the cyclists come in. Then I’m at my desk with my gym bag, not unlike other people in the office. At the end of the day, rather than going straight home, I go see a movie, grab a meal, get a drink with friends, or sometimes just stay late at the office. Before I catch the bus back “home” I would go back to the gym, brush my teeth, use the toilet, and then by the time I’m back at the car I just go to sleep, or maybe watch some youtube or netflix on my phone first. The routine was really easy to get into, and simplified my life to an extent. There are a few tricks though. For one, you need good eating habits since you can’t take a shit during the night. I have an emergency pee bottle, but try not to use it since it needs to be washed out the following day and it messes up the morning routine. I was initially concerned that someone walking by would hear my snoring, see the car move as I roll over in my bed, or see the glow of my phone screen - nothing like that ever eventuated. In over two years, on busy streets and on quiet streets, I never had any suspicions even with people standing right next to my car. So, fast forward to the pandemic period - things have gotten a lot tougher in recent months. With both the gyms and the office facilities closed, I’ve had to rely on public bathrooms and showers (very few of these, and only cold water) for daily hygiene. Pretty rough. Plus, it’s pretty hard to “work from home” when your home is a place without power. Fortunately, with rents plummeting, I have taken the opportunity to move into a small studio which I think is now even more cost effective than sleeping in my car. As for the financials, I’ve done the math. Obviously you save money immediately on rent/power/water and outlays such as furniture and homewares. My food costs doubled, despite my best efforts - you do end up eating out more simply because you can’t cook. I did have a plan in place to make meals and keep in the fridge at work, but it simply wasn’t practical. You have the outlay expense of a car, but if you choose the right car (I can talk more about this) the value will hold. You also have insurance and fuel - but of course you have the benefits of being able to drive around on the weekends, which you might otherwise need to take transport or hire a go get. During the week, you’re probably using public transport about the same as if you were in an apartment. Gym costs are the same, assuming you’re at the gym even when you’re living in an apartment. Internet is same/same - you can drop wired broadband and put the money into a high GB data plan for your phone. So when I balanced everything out I was saving an additional $300 or so per week, about $15,000 per year. Ask me anything you like. Here's a few starter questions: How did I choose the right car, pros/cons of each style. How did I set up the car inside More info on daily routine and personal management Strange occurrences on the street at night How to choose a place to park, pros/cons of options Temperature management in summer/winter Common issues/challenges & solutions More info about common tasks like laundry, cooking, etc How to spend your weekends when you don’t have a house to clean or a TV/sofa to enjoy Best/worst aspects of this style of living How to avoid looking like an actual homeless person submitted by /u/sleepingout to r/sydney [link] [comments]

Hi everyone! I've been meaning to make this post for a while now. I'm hoping to help everyone save hundreds or even thousands of dollars by taking care of their own vehicle. Once upon a time, long ago, this was the way things were done. Even in old owner's manuals from the 1920's they'd often have a paragraph in the beginning telling the owner "If something breaks, it's because you neglected basic care and maintenance!!" Even though Jay Leno is talking about a 1918 Cadillac in that clip, this is still true today. We have lost our ability to take care of cars as they became more complicated, taking longer and longer to have to learn each new piece and computerized part. But it's still very easy! The basics haven't changed much since then. Us here in r/povertyfinance aren't driving brand new 2019 Diesel trucks or Corvettes. I'd venture to say the average age of the typical redditor's vehicle here is at least 10 years old. You can do most work on most passenger car and trucks with nothing more than a $20 wrench set from Walmart, some pliers, screwdrivers, a hammer, and if you're feeling really fancy a $50 socket set from Autozone. I'm going to go over basic maintenance and repair. Your car may vary! The best resource for information about your specific vehicle or problem that's accessible to you is Youtube. I as a mechanic have a bunch of databases available that are very expensive to access so only shops pay out for it. I also suggest buying the Haynes or Chilton manual for your vehicle, available used on amazon for $2-5. You'll also need a jack, which your car SHOULD have (and if it doesn't, get one!). Don't use the jack that comes with your car by itself to work on your vehicle. You'll need something to support it so it doesn't crush you if\when your jack fails. Many people have died being crushed by their cars, just as many have lost limbs. Autozone has a tool rental service that is "free" in the sense that you pay a deposit for the tool and you get said deposit back when you bring the tool back. Even if you're so desperate you can't use a jackstand, put SOMETHING under the car to catch it if it falls. EDIT6: According to a couple of redditors in the comments, Alldata, Haynes and some automotive repair subscription services are available at public libraries. Public Libraries may also carry repair manuals for some vehciles! Alldata is amazing for finding wiring diagrams, and I'd give it an 8/10 on it's repair procedures. Sometimes it's spot on. Others, especially in cases where there are the same engine but many different options (Looking at you, Chevy...) can leave much to be desired (example: it tells you to take something out, but there's something else in the way that needs to be removed which wasn't listed in the procedure) EDIT7: How to use Youtube to find your fix. If you need general instructions for basic repairs (Suspension, brakes, oil or other fluid changes, etc) Check out ChrisFix. Easily the best auto repair channel on Youtube that I know of. If you need something specific to your year/make/model of car then you need some Google-Fu. Say I need instructions for how to do the trailing arms on my 1990 Honda Civic hatchback. Many videos will be labeled with the year range for that model (in this case, 1988-1991 or even more specifically 1988-1989 pre facelift, 1990-1991 post facelift). You can try 1991 Civic trailing arms, 1988-1991 Civic Trailing arms, 88-91 civic trailing arms, etc. etc. and get a bunch of different results each time. There are a ton of hobbyists out there who have repair videos made for all kinds of makes and models. I've seen a Ford Model T water pump repair video for f*** sake!! Watch plenty of videos and compare/contrast what's going on in each to gather as much information as possible. These will be great for finding out what part is which, where everything goes, etc because it will look just like your car, beat up and in need of fixing, instead of a flawless factory picture. It's great to have someone get a full screen video of a part and say definitively, "This is X" (X being what you're trying to find) "And X is right here under Y, 3 inches behind Z and you can see it when you stand RIGHT HERE" To review: You'll need wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, a hammer, a jack and jackstands, the tire iron that came with your car (get one if you don't have it!!), sockets if you can afford it, and other specialty tools as needed for rental from parts stores. Parts can be found for cheapest on Rockauto.com (I'm not shilling here, they legitimately have some stupidly low prices- I got the master cylinder, calipers, padsx4 and rotorsx4 for my car for less than $150 1991 Honda Civic). If you can wait and you need a few things, it's hands down the cheapest place for parts. Autozone, Oreilleys, Advance, Napa, etc. All have basically the same prices. Go with one thats close to you that has a good rewards program. Personally I use AZ- 5 $20 purchases gets you $20 credit in store. The junkyard is a decent place for some parts if you have the time to sift through the pick and pull places. If you're desperate, they also sell used tires if that's legal where you live. Inspect them thoroughly, there's plenty of sources out there on how to inspect tires. Not enough space here to give that lesson. Mount and balance services are usually $20-40 for a set of tires from a tire shop. Now that we've talked about what you'll need, and where to find parts, it's time to talk about diagnosing things. All of your routine maintenance instructions can be found in your manual, on youtube, on forums dedicated to your car, etc. But you need to know how to figure out what to fix. This is the Jedi-like powers that mechanics have where they can get in the car, drive it around the block and instantly know what's wrong. It involves a cause and effect style of thinking where by process of elimination you work from one end of the affected part to the other. For instance, working out where a sound is coming from. When does the sound happen? What are the road conditions, What speed? This also applies to figuring out that pesky Check Engine light/ Service Engine Soon light. For those of you who can't follow- A car is made up of several systems. Your Drivetrain (Engine, Transmission, and if you have a RWD or 4WD car, a differential), the Suspension (Shocks, control arms, sway bar and sway bar links, tie rods) Accessories (A/C, Power Steering, Alternator), Brakes and Tires, and the body. You need to first determine the affected system (Engine, suspension, brakes, etc) then determine the cause of the symptom (Vibration, noise, overheating, etc). Each part has a distinctive vibration and sound when it's starting to go bad. Once you know what a bad wheel bearing sounds like you'll be able to hear one from a mile away. Same goes for a bad strut mount, or blown shocks. Looking at how your tires wear tells you a ton about your suspension Again, a ton of this information can be found on Youtube and in your manuals. Diagnosing a No-Start situation is fairly simple. There's a flowchart you can follow. Does the Engine crank at all? Clicking sound? If no crank at all or a loud click, your battery is dead (or your starter is bad). If it cranks and cranks and cranks but doesn't start, you have an issue with the combustion triangle: Fuel, Air, Spark. You're lacking one of the three and you need to figure out which, and why. Lack of fuel is (in order of likelyhood) empty tank, dead pump (or blown pump fuse), clogged fuel filter/rail/injectors, bad fuel. Air is a completely clogged intake filter. Spark is tricky- It depends on how the spark is sent, if there is a distributor or whether the car is coil-over-plug. It could be bad plugs, bad coil(s), bad distributor cap or rotor, bad crankshaft position or engine coolant temperature signal, the list goes on. Fuel and air delivery is simple. Spark really depends on the car. I have been learning this stuff for over a decade now, working on my own vehicles as a way to save money before I became a professional mechanic. It can be very scary at first when you take everything apart and have to re-assemble this 2 ton hunk of steel that can go 90mph so that it doesn't fall apart while doing so. Organiziation is key. Having instructions helps a ton. Having pictures of the job before, during and after disassembly can aid greatly in reassembly. If you remove or replace any suspension components because they're worn out like shocks, control arms, etc. take it to an independent shop that does alignments. DO NOT TAKE YOUR CAR TO A NATIONAL CHAIN FOR ALIGNMENTS becuase they always always always half-ass their alignments. I am very knowledgeable about how to do full 4-wheel alignments and 9 times out of 10 the national chains like Midas, Brake Check, etc. will just "Toe and Go" which is to set the Toe of the car and do nothing else because the toe mostly determines how straight the car will drive. This is incorrect, because they also need to set the camber and caster but are too lazy to do so. So if you have to take it to a chain, TELL them you have replaced major suspension components and want a FULL 4-WHEEL alignment TO INCLUDE CASTER AND CAMBER ADJUSTMENTS and if they tell you that it is not adjustable, make them prove it. Sometimes it really isn't adjustable, most of the time it is, however. The machine will know and it will have a way to pull up the procedure to adjust it if it has a method of adjustment. If it doesn't, it will display that it cannot be adjusted. Alignments and tires are one of the only things that you should have to take your car in for if you do everything right taking care of your vehicle. The easiest jobs to do yourself are fluid changes, brakes, and some suspension work as well as many gaskets in the vehicle. Some jobs in some cars that are typically easy can be a complete nightmare. Read, read read!! These old vehicles have been taken apart and reassembled by so many people with access to the internet telling others how to do it. Don't get in over your head with a job that's too far outside your ability, because it will end up costing you more when you give up and have to take it to a professional. I'll try to add more to this if I can, and reply to any questions if you guys have any (No I won't diagnose your car over the internet. Sorry, not enough time for that and I don't diagnose cars without being right next to them with a scanner in my hands) EDIT: Some tips on diagnosing things. Scenario 1: When you start the car, there's a loud nails-on-chalkboard sound and it persists for some time after starting. Once warmed up it goes away though. Until you start turning the wheel, and putting demand on the power steering pump. So we've determined that A) A sound is coming from the engine bay and B) It happens when the car starts and when we turn the wheel, meaning that we're moving the power steering fluid through the rack and pinion, making the power steering pump have to work. We've already isolated the affected system- Accessories - and identified when it happens, so we've more specifically diagnosed it down to a problem with either the belt driving the pump, or the pump itself. Now that we know what's affected we need to check the condition of the system. Power steering fluid, the belt itself, the pulley, the power steering lines- inspect it all. In this case, the belt looks dry, cracked, and is missing a couple of teeth. A new belt is in order, which can be bought for very cheap and changed in minutes. After installing, the noise went away! And it seemed as though the P/S system was OK- no leaks and the fluid was the proper type and condition (some systems use generic P/S fluid, some use Transmission fluid, some use a proprietary power steering fluid specific to that brand. READ READ READ!!! Using the wrong type of fluid will ruin the entire system, costing thousands of dollars.) Scenario 2: Gas mileage seems really bad. The engine feels like it runs rougher than it used to. It takes a really long time to start the car on a cold day, and the exhaust smells like gasoline. There's a check engine light on. This is where things can get fun. You need to pull the codes that are registered- this could be P0420 (catalytic converter code) Or a bad O2 sensor causing a rich fuel situation, or a vacuum leak, or excessive carbon buildup, or a stuck injector, or a wiring harness issue, or... (you get the picture). Engine diagnosis can be difficult, but with the help of an OBD2 reader and knowledge and understanding of the combustion cycle of the engine, anyone can figure out a basic engine problem. Fuel issues can mean engine management sensors have gone bad (O2, MAF/MAP, etc). Figuring out whether is't a mechanical issue, or an issue with electrical wiring can be challenging. PRO TIP: ALWAYS ROUTE YOUR WIRES BACK THE WAY THEY WERE WITH ZIPTIES SO THEY DON'T RUB AND CAUSE PROBLEMS LATER ON!! EDIT2: Stuff to keep in your car for emergency repairs. Again, the tools I listed above (Wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, basic stuff). A Tire repair kit, NOT A CAN OF FIX A FLAT! FIX A FLAT IS TERRIBLE!! IT RUINS TIRES DON'T USE IT!!!!! Get the kit that has the rubber strips, rubber cement, a big handle with a poker and an awl. Learn how to use it I'd include a gas can just in case you run out, if you can afford to. Get a milk crate or a plastic tub to keep a few things in, to include: A gallon bottle of distilled water (99 cents, good for emergencies when you have a coolant leak and need water), wiper fluid, a quart of oil and quart of ATF, a stick of the epoxy putty that you mold together like mighty putty (RIP Billy Mays) that patches radiators or oil pans in emergencies, a can of brake cleaner to clean stuff with before applying said putty, a funnel, jumper cables, a jackstand, your jack (either the OEM garbage scissor jack your car is supplied with or a better small floor jack). Flares if you feel you may need it, or alternatively an orange safety triangle. That's about everything I'd carry, too much more and you're adding weight that affects mileage. EDIT3: Stuff to do for older vehicles. If you car is 7 years old or older, you could be looking at replacing quite a bit of rubber components over the next few years. Coolant hoses, gaskets, suspension bushings- all of these tend to last 7-10 years or 100-150K miles which is, surprise, about how long most auto warranties are. I suggest inspecting all of your rubber bits if you haven't done so on your own car, or haven't taken it to the shop in a while. Squeeze the hoses; they shouldn't feel very soft and squishy or alternatively, hard as a rock. Be gentle with vacuum lines because they like to harden to such a brittleness that they snap just by looking at them funny. I'd replace all of them if you own a vehicle older than 7 years old and haven't done so. A roll of appropriately sized line is usually very cheap. By the foot from a local parts store is very cheap too, and you have the bonus of being able to bring in the part to match it up and make sure its the size you need. EDIT4 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Something kind of important another redditor pointed out- How much to tighten something, and how not to strip your bolts and nuts. havingf a torque wrench is great, and using it to torque everything to specified values is even better. But what about those who don't have one? How much do you tigthen things? Here's how to not strip your bolts- Don't tighten it so much that you're struggling to get it even tighter. Yes, you do NOT want that lugnut coming off when you're entering the highway but conversely you want it to come off again sometime in the future. Basically, for critical suspension components and larger bolts (12mm and up) you don't want to use 2 hands on your torquing device; just one. And don't put everything you've got into it either, make it nice and snug and then a bit more. Check it by turning in the loose direction, and if you can't turn it with one hand and and minimal effort it should be plenty tight. For smaller (

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