Money Saving Methods

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I put my car in eco mode, reduced my jack rabbit starts, coast to red lights and drive a little slower on freeways. (I get an extra 3 mpg so far, which is almost 40 miles to a tank in my little car) I remember all of this being touted during the oil crisis of the 70s. Is it now? I still see assholes in trucks gunning their one passenger vehicles and slamming on the brakes at stop lights. Why throw money away for almost no time gained? submitted by /u/QuentinMagician to r/energy [link] [comments]

trying to save some money and wanted to know what methods work best submitted by /u/jacobsmaltz to r/SavingMoney [link] [comments]

I recently reached out to an insurance broker and found I can save almost $4k a year on my home/auto insurance by switching. I went to cancel a few of my different subscription services and many of them offered like half the price for a year. I discovered checking account bonus churning. I try to utilize different shopping or gas station rewards when possible. Nothing huge but they certainly add up over the year. Wondering if anyone has any good methods to make and/or save some extra cash besides the typical “work 3 jobs and make more money”. submitted by /u/twostroke1 to r/personalfinance [link] [comments]

I’m trying to be more intentional with my money this year, but saving consistently is harder than I thought. Every time I think I’m doing well, some random expense shows up. For those who’ve managed to build solid savings what actually worked for you? Automatic transfers, budgeting apps, cash envelopes, something else? submitted by /u/Emotional-Addendum-9 to r/SavingMoney [link] [comments]

Hi everyone, I regularly purchase BP and diabetes medicines for my parents. Since these are long-term medicines, the expense adds up every month. Currently, I buy medicines either weekly, every 15 days, or monthly depending on availability. I want to understand what I can do differently to reduce overall cost without changing prescribed medicines. I had a few specific questions and would appreciate guidance: • Is it generally cheaper to buy medicines monthly instead of weekly or every 15 days? • Do online pharmacies actually work out cheaper than local medical stores over time? • I have multiple credit cards—are there any smart ways to use them specifically for medicine purchases? • Does buying pharmacy gift cards (like Apollo Pharmacy vouchers) help in saving money, or is it not worth it? • Any other simple, legal, and practical methods people use to reduce monthly medicine bills? Not looking to over-optimize or change treatments—just want to build a sensible routine that saves money month after month. Thanks in advance for sharing your experiences. submitted by /u/No_Zookeepergame3065 to r/CreditCardsIndia [link] [comments]

I am 19F, I need to make a quick $100. I don't have options such as jobs or tutoring as I have strict parents that do not allow me to go out alone. It's frustrating as heck that's why I opened a small business where I resell clothes. However, it is a very slow process ,and I need money to invest in the business itself. The income I have made so far is going to my savings as I am trying to leave for uni in another country, so I no longer need to live with them. (Unrealistic I know but I gotta try) The reason I need 100 dollars may sound bratty, but it is because I urgently need skincare. My parents do not give me allowance thus I cannot make personal purchases. My appearance has been affecting my confidence a lot, which has been causing me a hard time growing. Any method to make a quick $100 or even $90 would be appreciated. ( Do not recommend me anything sketchy like scamming and OF) I’ve tried social media, but I think monetization isn’t allowed in Dhaka. I’m also open to online jobs, since I can have a family member abroad open a PayPal account for me if needed. submitted by /u/Few-Ability-5103 to r/Dhaka [link] [comments]

I’ve been using a saving method lately that sounds a bit strange but works surprisingly well for me: pretend spending. Whenever I feel the urge to buy something, I look at the price, imagine myself checking out… and then transfer that exact amount into my savings instead. It gives me the same little rush that shopping used to give me, just without losing the money. For example, I’ve been pretending I have a dog. I’ll look up the price of kibble, treats, grooming, toys, everything, and then save that amount instead of actually buying anything. Same with clothes. If I see something I want but don’t really need, I “pretend buy” it and move the money over. I also do this with discounts. If something I planned to buy goes on sale, I save the difference. And when I occasionally get a small item for free through something like a TikTok slash free, I pretend I paid full price for it and save that amount too. It turns a random freebie into an extra deposit instead of an excuse to shop. It’s honestly made saving feel fun, and the numbers add up way faster than I expected. submitted by /u/BookwormSarah1 to r/SavingMoney [link] [comments]

I keep trying to get into bulk meal prep because everyone swears it saves money, but I feel like I’m doing something wrong. Some weeks it works great and I stretch my groceries way further… and other weeks I open the fridge and realize half the stuff has already gone bad before I even get to it. It makes me wonder if meal prep is only frugal if you know certain tricks that I just haven’t figured out yet. Are there specific foods that actually hold up well for several days, and others that are just a waste of time to prep in advance? Are people freezing half their meals? Using special containers? Cooking different things for different shelf lives? I’m genuinely curious what the “secret methods” are that make this work long term. If you’ve figured out how to meal prep without losing money to spoilage, what do you do differently? What lasts the longest, and what should I avoid prepping altogether? submitted by /u/James_B84Saves to r/Frugal [link] [comments]

Something I've been doing for a while that all of you may not be doing is if I make a large purchase, for example, a new laptop or a new bed/chest of drawers, something like that. What I do is I put it on a 0% credit card, which there is always a 0% credit card. They're usually for approximately two years. Then I treat that £2,000 or £3,000 as a 0% loan, which means I pay it off over two years. But that also means the money that I would have put in it over time actually goes into a savings account and earns anything between 4 and 10%, depending on, you know, where our investments are. So even though it's actually a small amount, I think I am saving between 4 and 10% on large purchases with this method. I know this sounds like a proper, "banks hate him," but it's one of those things that I do that I don't see mentioned here very often for medium-sized purchases. submitted by /u/smickie to r/FIREUK [link] [comments]

Was thinking recently about the financials for home automation, and I'm sure many of us are far underwater as far as money saved vs money spent on home automation. Don't bother with the convenience angle, I already agree with you. But I was wondering if anyone has any genuine ways to save money with home automation? I have one but don't want to poison the well to start. (I.e. you first, please!) Indirect and direct methods of saving with home automation are both good! (I.e. "I prevent this bad thing from happening that would cost me $X" is valid, along with "HA saves me money by doing X instead of Y".) Lights on motion sensors count but don't get Internet points -- everybody does that! submitted by /u/3-2-1-backup to r/homeautomation [link] [comments]

I'm gonna be studying in Antwerp and I want to save as much money as possible for certificates in my domain. Give me your most outrageous and extreme money saving methods. submitted by /u/Own-Advantage-5255 to r/Antwerpen [link] [comments]

I know we see these alot but it always just seems to be "make coffee at home" I'm looking to hear your unique or unhinged methods. For example, whilst I started this purely for health I've been doing 48 hour fasts every week, which works out to be about 3.4 months per year of not eating, which if you spend $100 a week on food saves you about $1487 a year or $29,740 over a 20 year period 😂👌 submitted by /u/Cultural_Catch_7911 to r/AusFinance [link] [comments]

It doesn’t have to be something super original or super inventive just so long as it saves you money in the long run. Something you do that you don’t notice many people around you doing. I know that what’s obvious, even intuitive for some, is far from obvious to others of course, but this isn’t a brain picking contents so just give some budgeting methods do you feel have worked for you in your particular circumstances. No one lives the same, and differences in avg salary, prices, taxes, and misc. deductibles can vary so wildly that I don’t it’s fair to speak on a global level. But still, I think most of my personal “hacks” (hate that word though) can apply to *most* people on the sub at least. So here goes 2 of my humble takes (the first one is probably the most useful to me right now) Postponing a big purchase till the end of the month (but putting the money for it aside) - a weird one but it works wonders. I put money aside for all non-necessary things that I want in my “savings” box (literally, a box in my bedroom) and take it out and buy what I want only if my “main” account can handle it. This also goes for luxury stuff like new PC parts, new clothes, new perfumes… etc. In the case of all three, I also watch for discounts and usually try to buy off-brand stuff that’s inexpensive but still quality. That means second hand (but still quality) clothes, barely-used PC parts that I even resell sometimes, and clone perfumes like Chez Pierre (my recent find) or something on Fragrantica that basically all give me the same goods (or like 9.5/10 of what I want) but save me so much money in the long run Learning to fix all basic household appliances - can’t stress enough how much money I saved by knowing how to fix my AC alone. Example: this summer the AC fan broke. I watched a tutorial, and learned how to tape it up good with asbestos duct tape and super glue. Two months later, it’s still spinning and I’ve probably saved more than a 100 bucks (spent maybe $10 on the tape and glue and voila…) submitted by /u/OneHamster1337 to r/budget [link] [comments]

Shoplifting from Walmart has bought down the cost of this hobby significantly submitted by /u/Motor-Soup6913 to r/AnalogCommunity [link] [comments]

I didn't really know how to word this question / discussion so please bear with me. I have a 2 year-old kid and like a lot of people with children I want to save a bit each month for their future. I started the simple route of a monthly amount of X through my bank with the odd cash thrown in a squirrel spot when I'm able to spare it. Do you think it's worth swapping this strategy for one that partly involves crypto? Obviously only looking at BTC, possibly ETH as I can't see it budging. While I totally appreciate and would take onboard the risk, the growth potential (we hope) over the next 15-20 years against normal banking is making me wonder if I'd be silly to miss that train. Would be interesting to hear what people's thoughts are or if they are doing this themselves already. If I'm just being a plank and it's a stupid idea I'll welcome the abuse too. My hope is by the time they get to use the amount - whichever way it comes - crypto will be an everyday part of their lives. submitted by /u/KnackeredParrot to r/CryptoCurrency [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/TwasAnChild to r/mildlyinfuriating [link] [comments]

No-Saving/Saveblock method V1 [Improved Repost] Having issues with enabling/disabling the script? Please check out this video for the manual method! PSA: THIS METHOD STILL WORKS FOR GTA ONLINE EXPANDED & ENHANCED VERSION! IF IT STOPS WORKING, THIS POST WILL BE UPDATED! Now, before we begin, this isn't the original post, nor am I the creator of this method/script. I have full permission from the original poster (further in this post, "OP"), to use his script and create a new summarized thread for it. Dont be scared of the long thread/text. I added a lot of info, so people that arent as tech savvy could maybe understand. Also just added a lot of extra info so people don't have as many questions. I could of easily made this really short, but then there would be a lot of questions in the comments and would have to help a lot of people. Since I answered a bunch of questions already, there should be less comments with questions. This script is considered as a depreciated method by the OP and since he deleted his old post, so I decided to make a new thread for it since it still works great and people need to know about this, but OP won't be supporting, updating it anymore. This thread is much bigger, has more info than OP's thread, so that's why it's an improved repost and should abide by the subreddit rules. Disclaimer: As always, I, nor the OP of this script, do not take any responsibility for any bans, resets, warnings, damages, etc, that you get while using this script. The chances of something happening because of this script or you screwing something up are nearly impossible. You 99.9% wont get banned for using this. FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions): > How does this method work? Well, there are 2 kinds of answers. Short answer - it uses your PC's Windows Firewall to block your PC from accessing R*'s servers and preventing them to save your game progress to their servers. The more technical answer - the AHK script creates a Windows Firewall rule, which blocks R*'s servers IP that is responsible for heist progress and other data (except money). > How safe is this method, am I going to get banned? Well, there is always some kind of risk involved when using these methods/glitches/exploits, unless it's really OP and it really makes a big spike in your GTA Online bank account, you should be fine. Unless you earn like 3m+ in 1 minute or something with another glitch, you don't have a risk of getting banned. In fact, doing most things in GTA Online won't get you banned straight away, but reset or warned or just the money reset first. With that being said about this method, it doesn't directly interfere with the game's files in any way, so it would be really hard for R* to detect it in that way. But people have used the regular replay method and I haven't really heard of cases of people getting banned or reset. I myself have been doing this for a while and I haven't had a problem. With that being said - the risk is there of course just like all the other methods, but it's super super unlikely. > How do I know that the script is not malicious and safe? You can check the script's source code by simply downloading the file and right-clicking on it, then click "Edit Script" or "Open with Notepad" (this does NOT run the code, you are only viewing it with a text editor!). Here are the virustotal scan results for this file as well. AHK scripts cannot launch or do anything by themselves if you just download the file, unlike other file types or malware, so if you want to download and check the file without running the code, you can safely do so. > Why is there an IP address in that script? Are you hacking me? No, that is the IP address to one of the R*'s servers. Heres the IP lookup scan results, as you can see the server is owned by Take-Two Interactive. The IP address is the same for everyone no matter where you are from. > Does this work for all heists? It does NOT work for apartment heists, but it should be working for all other heists. Cayo perico has a payout limit for around 4.18m per 30 minutes. Meaning, once you finish the first cayo heist, the countdown starts. If you exceed the limit, you would not receive a single dollar until the cooldown is over. > Will this work on console? No, this exact script is PC (Windows) only, as it requires a piece of software called AutoHotKey (AHK), which isn't available on other platforms. This method also utilizes the Windows Firewall which isnt used on other platforms or operating systems. > What's so special about this method, why can't I just cut my internet and replay the heist the normal way? Well, it's pretty simple. Usually, whenever you replay heists, you have to disconnect your internet at a certain timing and if you miss it or there's some unwanted lag/latency, you have a high chance of not getting paid or losing your target/preps. Sometimes even if you time it correctly, as I already mentioned, it could lag at that moment or latency could hop in. Now, with this method you do NOT require any timing at all, even if it lags or there's extra latency, you are guaranteed to get your money and keep the heist, giving that you do it right. > What else can I do with this script? This script can actually be used for some other things, not just replaying heists. For example, bypassing DSL (Daily Sell Limit), replaying time trials, using items like ammo, snacks, and such which won't subtract while the script is turned on, probably replaying CMM (haven't tested that yet 100%), etc. Though I have not explicitly tried these things myself so you are free to experiment yourself at your own risk. > Is this going to work for exactly my PC? This should work for your PC as well, but there are a few things that can prevent the script from working properly, like custom firewalls, 3rd party antivirus software, different software installations or settings, router settings, etc. You can try to follow the troubleshooting section to make sure that all the settings are correct to maximize the chances of this working. > Will I get RP and elite challenge money by using this? You should get the elite challenge money automatically right in your bank account, not hand, but unfortunately you won't get RP by using this, but thats only a small con. > How do I terminate the script? If you at any point want to exit/terminate the script, it should be in your system tray. Look for a green "H" icon (it could be hidden inside the small "^" icon button). Then right click on the "H" icon and press "Exit". Upon exiting/closing/terminating the script, any leftover firewall rules will also be deleted in case you forgot to or didnt disable nosave before. > Does this work with multiple people? Yes it works the exact same way with multiple people, the steps are the same and only the host has to do this method. Keep in mind that you should NOT join your friends after the heist or accept any invites, but join back into online ONLY from the pause menu. Setting up AHK and the script: Download AHK (AutoHotKey v1.1) and install it. While installing, choose "Express Installation". Then simply click "Exit". Download the script file (Check the end of this post for the link to the updated scripts). Double left-click on the script, it is going to ask you for administrative privileges, enter your password or click "Yes". The script now should be started and should be in your system tray, where you can right-click on it and further do several actions if needed, like exit the script. Testing the script to see if it's working as intended: Make sure you've launched the nosave script (check your system tray) and go into GTA Online. In game press CTRL+F9 to enable nosave. It should say on the top left of your screen "NO SAVING MODE ON" (unless your game is set to fullscreen). Then to test, press ALT+F4 which should immediately bring up a screen saying "Save failed, are you sure you want to quit now?". Just press "No" or escape to go back to the game. After that disable nosave by pressing CTRL+F12. This time it should say "NO SAVING MODE OFF" on the top left. To make sure it was disabled correctly press ALT+F4 once again, but this time it should say "Are you sure you want to quit Grand Theft Auto V? Any unsaved progress will be lost." Heres a short video demonstration. Manual method - If you have issues with the script not showing "NO SAVING MODE ON/OFF" or the hotkeys do not do anything when pressing them, please check out the video on the top of the post! How to use the script to replay heists: Make sure you have launched the script, you could do it during the heist, but just make sure to launch it before to be safe in case you forget. Now just simply play the heist like you normally do. Of course make sure you have tested the script before you start your heist. You don't have to test it every single time you start a heist, if it works one time it should work just fine in the future unless you install antivirus software or do other changes. Whenever you reach the end of the heist, make sure you activate nosave with CTRL+F9 at least 10-20 seconds before making it to the heist ending. Now simply finish the heist. Wait till all of the finishing cutscenes end and you gain control of your GTA Online character in freeroam again. Go to pause menu>Online>Leave GTA Online to go back to story mode. Once you are fully loaded into story mode (make sure there are no spinning circles or anything) then you can disable nosave with CTRL+F12. After you've disabled nosave, you can connect back into a GTA Online session and after joining back you should have your money and your heist preps should still be active. DO NOT ACCEPT JOIN INVITES OR OPEN THE ROCKSTAR GAMES LAUNCHER MENU (HOME BUTTON), WHILE IN STORY MODE AFTER DISABLING NOSAVE, AS THAT WILL FORCE SAVE YOUR GAME! ONLY JOIN A LOBBY FROM THE PAUSE MENU, PREFERABLY AN INVITE ONLY LOBBY! Troubleshooting/issues: 3rd party antivirus software - if you have any antivirus software installed, like Avast, Malwarebytes, Kaspersky, Norton, etc, there's a high chance, that they would come with an extra firewall enabled. These extra firewalls could interfere with the script and the default windows firewall and would make the script not work. So I'd recommend completely disabling these or even uninstalling the software completely. Cannot see the "NO SAVING MODE ON" popup, but script is on - make sure you try to activate/use it in Windowed borderless mode instead. If you still prefer fullscreen, you can activate the script and then ALT+TAB to a different tab, then you should be able to see the popup, just not in game. Just try switching different screen modes and see if it works. Windows firewall is off - make sure that the windows firewall is ON, since that's what the script uses to do this method and it requires the firewall. Different keyboard configuration - it is possible that you have a laptop keyboard or a smaller keyboard that works a little differently. Some of those keyboards require you to press and hold the Function key at the same time as the Ctrl key for the function keys to work (since the Function keys could have other features built in, like brightness, sound level, keyboard lighting, etc.). If holding Ctrl and pressing F9 or F12 doesnt work for you, try to press and hold Ctrl+Fn and then pressing F9 or F12. Opening the script does not do anything - make sure the script isnt already running, check your system tray for a green "H" icon (it could be hidden inside the small "^" icon button). If its already running, you wont be able to launch a second one. Script randomly stops working/stops responding to inputs - this could be an issue due to the new anticheat blocking inputs randomly. In case this happens you may try to reload the script by right clicking on the green "H" icon in your taskbar (it could be hidden inside the small "^" icon button) and pressing on "Reload This Script". Or alternatively just close it and reopen it manually. We are working on making it more reliable for everyone eventually. Credits/Extra info: Creator of the script and the original post - u/smugglercb - Big thanks to him, since he was the one who let me publicly make and release this thread once again. The original post was deleted for multiple personal reasons, but he let me release it once again. He wasn't the founder of this whole method, it was someone on a different game forum that wanted to be anonymous, but smuggler was the one who first created the script for PC. As I already mentioned, there is a chance that there is a weirder/deeper/different issue, that I don't know of and that would either be impossible to fix/hard to find and fix, that's the only con for this script. There are plans to migrate to a different programming language like Python, since AHK is quite old and inefficient compared to other modern languages. Of course, if anyone has any tips on what I could add to this thread, any troubleshooting findings, new discoveries, problems or questions, make sure to definitely shoot a comment, I'll be trying to read and reply to all of them. Updates/changes: [V1.2] 22/12/2024: Cleaned up the script to not have unnecessary code that isnt needed anymore, for example, for disconnecting internet. Adjusted the keybinds to work with the recent Garment factory update on GTAO. To prevent accidental presses, the keybinds have been changed to CTRL+F9 to enable nosave and CTRL+F12 to disable nosave. UPDATED DOWNLOAD LINK HERE In case you want to know further details of what was changed, you can read the update information post submitted by /u/ElectroBytezLV to r/gtaglitches [link] [comments]

submitted by /u/NB247 to r/LifeProTips [link] [comments]

Hi everyone! I've been meaning to make this post for a while now. I'm hoping to help everyone save hundreds or even thousands of dollars by taking care of their own vehicle. Once upon a time, long ago, this was the way things were done. Even in old owner's manuals from the 1920's they'd often have a paragraph in the beginning telling the owner "If something breaks, it's because you neglected basic care and maintenance!!" Even though Jay Leno is talking about a 1918 Cadillac in that clip, this is still true today. We have lost our ability to take care of cars as they became more complicated, taking longer and longer to have to learn each new piece and computerized part. But it's still very easy! The basics haven't changed much since then. Us here in r/povertyfinance aren't driving brand new 2019 Diesel trucks or Corvettes. I'd venture to say the average age of the typical redditor's vehicle here is at least 10 years old. You can do most work on most passenger car and trucks with nothing more than a $20 wrench set from Walmart, some pliers, screwdrivers, a hammer, and if you're feeling really fancy a $50 socket set from Autozone. I'm going to go over basic maintenance and repair. Your car may vary! The best resource for information about your specific vehicle or problem that's accessible to you is Youtube. I as a mechanic have a bunch of databases available that are very expensive to access so only shops pay out for it. I also suggest buying the Haynes or Chilton manual for your vehicle, available used on amazon for $2-5. You'll also need a jack, which your car SHOULD have (and if it doesn't, get one!). Don't use the jack that comes with your car by itself to work on your vehicle. You'll need something to support it so it doesn't crush you if\when your jack fails. Many people have died being crushed by their cars, just as many have lost limbs. Autozone has a tool rental service that is "free" in the sense that you pay a deposit for the tool and you get said deposit back when you bring the tool back. Even if you're so desperate you can't use a jackstand, put SOMETHING under the car to catch it if it falls. EDIT6: According to a couple of redditors in the comments, Alldata, Haynes and some automotive repair subscription services are available at public libraries. Public Libraries may also carry repair manuals for some vehciles! Alldata is amazing for finding wiring diagrams, and I'd give it an 8/10 on it's repair procedures. Sometimes it's spot on. Others, especially in cases where there are the same engine but many different options (Looking at you, Chevy...) can leave much to be desired (example: it tells you to take something out, but there's something else in the way that needs to be removed which wasn't listed in the procedure) EDIT7: How to use Youtube to find your fix. If you need general instructions for basic repairs (Suspension, brakes, oil or other fluid changes, etc) Check out ChrisFix. Easily the best auto repair channel on Youtube that I know of. If you need something specific to your year/make/model of car then you need some Google-Fu. Say I need instructions for how to do the trailing arms on my 1990 Honda Civic hatchback. Many videos will be labeled with the year range for that model (in this case, 1988-1991 or even more specifically 1988-1989 pre facelift, 1990-1991 post facelift). You can try 1991 Civic trailing arms, 1988-1991 Civic Trailing arms, 88-91 civic trailing arms, etc. etc. and get a bunch of different results each time. There are a ton of hobbyists out there who have repair videos made for all kinds of makes and models. I've seen a Ford Model T water pump repair video for f*** sake!! Watch plenty of videos and compare/contrast what's going on in each to gather as much information as possible. These will be great for finding out what part is which, where everything goes, etc because it will look just like your car, beat up and in need of fixing, instead of a flawless factory picture. It's great to have someone get a full screen video of a part and say definitively, "This is X" (X being what you're trying to find) "And X is right here under Y, 3 inches behind Z and you can see it when you stand RIGHT HERE" To review: You'll need wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, a hammer, a jack and jackstands, the tire iron that came with your car (get one if you don't have it!!), sockets if you can afford it, and other specialty tools as needed for rental from parts stores. Parts can be found for cheapest on Rockauto.com (I'm not shilling here, they legitimately have some stupidly low prices- I got the master cylinder, calipers, padsx4 and rotorsx4 for my car for less than $150 1991 Honda Civic). If you can wait and you need a few things, it's hands down the cheapest place for parts. Autozone, Oreilleys, Advance, Napa, etc. All have basically the same prices. Go with one thats close to you that has a good rewards program. Personally I use AZ- 5 $20 purchases gets you $20 credit in store. The junkyard is a decent place for some parts if you have the time to sift through the pick and pull places. If you're desperate, they also sell used tires if that's legal where you live. Inspect them thoroughly, there's plenty of sources out there on how to inspect tires. Not enough space here to give that lesson. Mount and balance services are usually $20-40 for a set of tires from a tire shop. Now that we've talked about what you'll need, and where to find parts, it's time to talk about diagnosing things. All of your routine maintenance instructions can be found in your manual, on youtube, on forums dedicated to your car, etc. But you need to know how to figure out what to fix. This is the Jedi-like powers that mechanics have where they can get in the car, drive it around the block and instantly know what's wrong. It involves a cause and effect style of thinking where by process of elimination you work from one end of the affected part to the other. For instance, working out where a sound is coming from. When does the sound happen? What are the road conditions, What speed? This also applies to figuring out that pesky Check Engine light/ Service Engine Soon light. For those of you who can't follow- A car is made up of several systems. Your Drivetrain (Engine, Transmission, and if you have a RWD or 4WD car, a differential), the Suspension (Shocks, control arms, sway bar and sway bar links, tie rods) Accessories (A/C, Power Steering, Alternator), Brakes and Tires, and the body. You need to first determine the affected system (Engine, suspension, brakes, etc) then determine the cause of the symptom (Vibration, noise, overheating, etc). Each part has a distinctive vibration and sound when it's starting to go bad. Once you know what a bad wheel bearing sounds like you'll be able to hear one from a mile away. Same goes for a bad strut mount, or blown shocks. Looking at how your tires wear tells you a ton about your suspension Again, a ton of this information can be found on Youtube and in your manuals. Diagnosing a No-Start situation is fairly simple. There's a flowchart you can follow. Does the Engine crank at all? Clicking sound? If no crank at all or a loud click, your battery is dead (or your starter is bad). If it cranks and cranks and cranks but doesn't start, you have an issue with the combustion triangle: Fuel, Air, Spark. You're lacking one of the three and you need to figure out which, and why. Lack of fuel is (in order of likelyhood) empty tank, dead pump (or blown pump fuse), clogged fuel filter/rail/injectors, bad fuel. Air is a completely clogged intake filter. Spark is tricky- It depends on how the spark is sent, if there is a distributor or whether the car is coil-over-plug. It could be bad plugs, bad coil(s), bad distributor cap or rotor, bad crankshaft position or engine coolant temperature signal, the list goes on. Fuel and air delivery is simple. Spark really depends on the car. I have been learning this stuff for over a decade now, working on my own vehicles as a way to save money before I became a professional mechanic. It can be very scary at first when you take everything apart and have to re-assemble this 2 ton hunk of steel that can go 90mph so that it doesn't fall apart while doing so. Organiziation is key. Having instructions helps a ton. Having pictures of the job before, during and after disassembly can aid greatly in reassembly. If you remove or replace any suspension components because they're worn out like shocks, control arms, etc. take it to an independent shop that does alignments. DO NOT TAKE YOUR CAR TO A NATIONAL CHAIN FOR ALIGNMENTS becuase they always always always half-ass their alignments. I am very knowledgeable about how to do full 4-wheel alignments and 9 times out of 10 the national chains like Midas, Brake Check, etc. will just "Toe and Go" which is to set the Toe of the car and do nothing else because the toe mostly determines how straight the car will drive. This is incorrect, because they also need to set the camber and caster but are too lazy to do so. So if you have to take it to a chain, TELL them you have replaced major suspension components and want a FULL 4-WHEEL alignment TO INCLUDE CASTER AND CAMBER ADJUSTMENTS and if they tell you that it is not adjustable, make them prove it. Sometimes it really isn't adjustable, most of the time it is, however. The machine will know and it will have a way to pull up the procedure to adjust it if it has a method of adjustment. If it doesn't, it will display that it cannot be adjusted. Alignments and tires are one of the only things that you should have to take your car in for if you do everything right taking care of your vehicle. The easiest jobs to do yourself are fluid changes, brakes, and some suspension work as well as many gaskets in the vehicle. Some jobs in some cars that are typically easy can be a complete nightmare. Read, read read!! These old vehicles have been taken apart and reassembled by so many people with access to the internet telling others how to do it. Don't get in over your head with a job that's too far outside your ability, because it will end up costing you more when you give up and have to take it to a professional. I'll try to add more to this if I can, and reply to any questions if you guys have any (No I won't diagnose your car over the internet. Sorry, not enough time for that and I don't diagnose cars without being right next to them with a scanner in my hands) EDIT: Some tips on diagnosing things. Scenario 1: When you start the car, there's a loud nails-on-chalkboard sound and it persists for some time after starting. Once warmed up it goes away though. Until you start turning the wheel, and putting demand on the power steering pump. So we've determined that A) A sound is coming from the engine bay and B) It happens when the car starts and when we turn the wheel, meaning that we're moving the power steering fluid through the rack and pinion, making the power steering pump have to work. We've already isolated the affected system- Accessories - and identified when it happens, so we've more specifically diagnosed it down to a problem with either the belt driving the pump, or the pump itself. Now that we know what's affected we need to check the condition of the system. Power steering fluid, the belt itself, the pulley, the power steering lines- inspect it all. In this case, the belt looks dry, cracked, and is missing a couple of teeth. A new belt is in order, which can be bought for very cheap and changed in minutes. After installing, the noise went away! And it seemed as though the P/S system was OK- no leaks and the fluid was the proper type and condition (some systems use generic P/S fluid, some use Transmission fluid, some use a proprietary power steering fluid specific to that brand. READ READ READ!!! Using the wrong type of fluid will ruin the entire system, costing thousands of dollars.) Scenario 2: Gas mileage seems really bad. The engine feels like it runs rougher than it used to. It takes a really long time to start the car on a cold day, and the exhaust smells like gasoline. There's a check engine light on. This is where things can get fun. You need to pull the codes that are registered- this could be P0420 (catalytic converter code) Or a bad O2 sensor causing a rich fuel situation, or a vacuum leak, or excessive carbon buildup, or a stuck injector, or a wiring harness issue, or... (you get the picture). Engine diagnosis can be difficult, but with the help of an OBD2 reader and knowledge and understanding of the combustion cycle of the engine, anyone can figure out a basic engine problem. Fuel issues can mean engine management sensors have gone bad (O2, MAF/MAP, etc). Figuring out whether is't a mechanical issue, or an issue with electrical wiring can be challenging. PRO TIP: ALWAYS ROUTE YOUR WIRES BACK THE WAY THEY WERE WITH ZIPTIES SO THEY DON'T RUB AND CAUSE PROBLEMS LATER ON!! EDIT2: Stuff to keep in your car for emergency repairs. Again, the tools I listed above (Wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, basic stuff). A Tire repair kit, NOT A CAN OF FIX A FLAT! FIX A FLAT IS TERRIBLE!! IT RUINS TIRES DON'T USE IT!!!!! Get the kit that has the rubber strips, rubber cement, a big handle with a poker and an awl. Learn how to use it I'd include a gas can just in case you run out, if you can afford to. Get a milk crate or a plastic tub to keep a few things in, to include: A gallon bottle of distilled water (99 cents, good for emergencies when you have a coolant leak and need water), wiper fluid, a quart of oil and quart of ATF, a stick of the epoxy putty that you mold together like mighty putty (RIP Billy Mays) that patches radiators or oil pans in emergencies, a can of brake cleaner to clean stuff with before applying said putty, a funnel, jumper cables, a jackstand, your jack (either the OEM garbage scissor jack your car is supplied with or a better small floor jack). Flares if you feel you may need it, or alternatively an orange safety triangle. That's about everything I'd carry, too much more and you're adding weight that affects mileage. EDIT3: Stuff to do for older vehicles. If you car is 7 years old or older, you could be looking at replacing quite a bit of rubber components over the next few years. Coolant hoses, gaskets, suspension bushings- all of these tend to last 7-10 years or 100-150K miles which is, surprise, about how long most auto warranties are. I suggest inspecting all of your rubber bits if you haven't done so on your own car, or haven't taken it to the shop in a while. Squeeze the hoses; they shouldn't feel very soft and squishy or alternatively, hard as a rock. Be gentle with vacuum lines because they like to harden to such a brittleness that they snap just by looking at them funny. I'd replace all of them if you own a vehicle older than 7 years old and haven't done so. A roll of appropriately sized line is usually very cheap. By the foot from a local parts store is very cheap too, and you have the bonus of being able to bring in the part to match it up and make sure its the size you need. EDIT4 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Something kind of important another redditor pointed out- How much to tighten something, and how not to strip your bolts and nuts. havingf a torque wrench is great, and using it to torque everything to specified values is even better. But what about those who don't have one? How much do you tigthen things? Here's how to not strip your bolts- Don't tighten it so much that you're struggling to get it even tighter. Yes, you do NOT want that lugnut coming off when you're entering the highway but conversely you want it to come off again sometime in the future. Basically, for critical suspension components and larger bolts (12mm and up) you don't want to use 2 hands on your torquing device; just one. And don't put everything you've got into it either, make it nice and snug and then a bit more. Check it by turning in the loose direction, and if you can't turn it with one hand and and minimal effort it should be plenty tight. For smaller (

I'm a tipped employee who takes home my main source of income on a daily basis, which can make it hard to budget correctly. It's easy to spend money when you constantly have a little cash in your wallet. Recently, I decided to crack down, and actually came up with a system that has worked spectacularly. I have very minimal expenses and make a decent living, but I'm still shocked and proud of myself that I managed to save nearly $1500 in less than a month following this method. This plan might not work as well for those who take home a bi-weekly paycheck, but as someone who has lived off tips for over 10 years, it has worked amazingly. I think of it as a mashup as the envelope formula and gamifying your money. I set a goal of putting away $55 every day from my tips, even on days I don't work. I set up an excel chart to track this. I used a basic knowledge of the program to set up formulas tracking my goal, the actual amount saved, and how "on track," i was based off how much money i decided to save for the day. The part that really gamified it for me was color coding the 'on track' column to either show red or green based on whether or not I was on par for my goal. It actually became fun to know how much money I needed to put away every day to see the little box turn green, and even more fun to know when I was well over my goal. For some reason, this color coded excel chart helped me save money quicker than anything I've ever tried before, and I'm looking forward to continue using this method and seeing how much I can potentially save. submitted by /u/BloopyBleepy to r/personalfinance [link] [comments]

It's back to school season again and for those incoming freshmen it may come as a bit of a shock to spend $500+ on a semester's worth of textbooks. Here's a comprehensive guide to avoiding that as much as possible. Preface: Unfortunately, if the class you're taking requires an online code or online service to turn in assignments, you're pretty much shit out of luck and need to bite the bullet and at least buy the access code for full price as they're typically tied to your name or school ID. The positive outcome of this case however is that the pdf of the book associated is found rather easily. With that said, for those that do not have online codes, here's how to save money. Digital books: Many books have pdf counterparts or Ebooks that others may have uploaded. Google will be your best resource for finding these PDFs. The first method to try is [title of book] filetype:pdf this brings up only pdfs related to the title you input, if that doesn't yield results (often links to powerpoint presentations or worksheets based on the book) try [isbn] filetype:pdf. While doing either of these, DO NOT CLICK THROUGH SITES THAT REQUIRE A PAYMENT TO ACCESS THE PDF, OR A PDF WITH AN EXTERNAL LINK. These are meant to trick gullible and desperate students and rarely have the book you're looking for. Last case scenario, here is a custom search engine that indexes several sites that may have your book this is also a good search engine. PDFs and ebooks are also great because you can read them on your tablet/smartphone and that's less weight to carry. Google didn't help? Try a request in r/scholar As with anything online, be careful and smart about what you download, be sure of the filetype you're downloading, avoid any and all .exe files for ebooks, and don't get tricked into paying for access to a site. If you still cannot find a pdf of your book, check Amazon or Chegg. They have several textbooks that you can rent via kindle or physical, often at a much cheaper rate than what your university may charge for renting. Amazon is perfect if you have prime (students get a 6 month trial). Also their kindle service is nice because it has a search engine as well as a flashcard generator for key terms and methods within a chapter. Physical books: Check your university's library. Many libraries have access to a service called International Library Loaning (ILL), this allows your library to request the book from any local libraries that may have it. The downside with this service is time is limited anywhere from 2 weeks to 11/2 months depending on your library's guidelines. Talk to your Professors. Many professors are well aware of the textbook extortion to students, and in some cases you can ask if the previous edition is acceptable to study from. These can usually be found used on Amazon for submitted by

submitted by /u/LHoT10820 to r/Frugal [link] [comments]