Closetmaid Shelf Install

I wasn’t able to find a reference of this being done before (am I stupid for have done it?) Ceilings are 10 feet (120 inches). New construction home had pre-installed basic ClosetMaid system. Wanted to try a 3 tier closet system before I do a full custom wood built-in closet (a high rod works for me because I work from home and don’t need access to my business clothes regularly). Used single Boaxel suspension rail on each wall + long vertical rails. Mounted shelf at the top and bottom of the Boaxel verticals, which allowed for hanging space of 36” / 36” / 41” (measuring from the rod to the bottom of shelf/floor). To install the shelf flush to the ceiling: I attached the brackets to the shelves before placing them on the vertical rails. I used painters tape wrapped tightly around the brackets and shelves to manage any separation of the parts while mounting them to the vertical rails. This worked like a charm! (I used this technique with all the shelves as I was really struggling to install the shelves onto the brackets already mounted to the vertical rail. For shelves that are connected with a single bracket in the middle - the tape needs to be removed from the center bracket before installing the second horizontal aligned shelf. Only one bracket would be pre-attached to the second shelf before mounting it onto the vertical and connecting it to the already hung bracket and shelf.) Screws used: - Horizontal Suspension Rail Screws: Ez-Ancor Stud Solver 50 lbs. Drywall and Stud Anchors - Vertical Wall Upright Rail Screws: Walldriller Plus #6 x 1-1/2 in. Nylon Self Drilling with Screw Phillips Head 105lbs. Hollow Wall Anchor submitted by /u/p33k-a-b00- to r/IKEA [link] [comments]

I’ve got these 25 inch standards that were previously screwed into wooden studs. Now I’m planning to install them in a finished basement that has metal studs. Bottom bracket is 16 inches. The other two are 12 inches. The guy at the hardware store told me that the standard should extend below the bottom shelf by the same amount as the depth of that bottom shelf. I expect I will be using Molly bolts to secure the standards to the studs. The bottom shelf will probably be holding 50 to 80 pounds, across three studs. The other shelves will not be holding anywhere close to that. Do I really need to go with longer standards to get more leverage against those studs. If I just use what I’ve got, am I at risk of my shelves pulling out of the wall? submitted by /u/JumpPsychological602 to r/HomeImprovement [link] [comments]

Just kidding. How are you appreciating your century heating this week? submitted by /u/sfgabe to r/centuryhomes [link] [comments]

Hello, The other night, I was awoken by a loud crash. After a quick investigation, it seemed that the track shelving that was being used to hold lumber/metal/stuff in the basement collapsed. Big mess, glad I wasn't there when it happened. The previous owners had evidently (once we had torn everything apart) used, well, ClosetMaid 'ShelfTrack'. I hadn't considered how they installed or what they installed as they had already used it for heavy things before, so I assumed that they had done it well. This was a poor assumption given that almost nothing they did in the house was done well. Importantly, the screws that they'd anchored it with - which they only used 3 for two ~75" tracks each - only went into the studs (which themselves are installed... oddly) about 1/2" (my wife showed me with great displeasure). Several of the screws had pulled out, and all but one track crumpled with the top hanger not doing anything, and one track not being damaged. The fact that it had held this load for about 2 years - if not a bit more - without failing before is... a bit surprising. For various safety reasons (couldn't access things like the breaker box anymore), we needed to clean it up and get storage back in place. We removed their shelving, and replaced it with what I could get on short notice - John Sterling HEAVYWEIGHT. We installed 3 tracks along with the hanger, and installed both the hanger and each track with GRK #10 x 2 1/2" cabinet screws - they engage roughly to a depth of 1 3/4", and there are significantly more of them. I was a bit limited in what I could do as I'm also recovering from shoulder surgery. Presently, only the lower three shelves have anything on them, and what's on them isn't particularly heavy - no more than a few hundred lbs total. The issue I'm running into is that I don't actually know how to calculate what the pullout force of the shelving actually is when loaded, and thus don't know what pullout strength is required. I also am well aware that the weak point is the wood itself, since it will give well before the screws. My intent was to put the largest pieces of wood - mostly red oak and some long pieces of fir - on the top shelf, since it would extend a bit too far to be lower, and being on the top shelf would put it above my head so I wouldn't walk into it. However... I'm pretty sure that this also puts the greatest pullout load on the system, and those are also the heaviest pieces of wood. I don't believe that it's more than ~200lbs that will be on that shelf, but I haven't weighed these (nor am I equipped to). I really just don't want it to collapse again, and certainly not while we're there (I don't think it would have killed us, but it wouldn't have been pleasant). So, I'm looking for a bit of advice on this and how to approach it. I usually tend to overbuild things dramatically, but I don't actually know enough specifics about this to be confident in my approach at all, and I've already dealt with it collapsing once... and I'm a pretty neurotic person. submitted by /u/Ameisen to r/DIY [link] [comments]

Hello, The other night, I was awoken by a loud crash. After a quick investigation, it seemed that the track shelving that was being used to hold lumber/metal/stuff in the basement collapsed. Big mess, glad I wasn't there when it happened. The previous owners had evidently (once we had torn everything apart) used, well, ClosetMaid 'ShelfTrack'. I hadn't considered how they installed or what they installed as they had already used it for heavy things before, so I assumed that they had done it well. This was a poor assumption given that almost nothing they did in the house was done well. Importantly, the screws that they'd anchored it with - which they only used 3 for two ~75" tracks each - only went into the studs (which themselves are installed... oddly) about 1/2" (my wife showed me with great displeasure). Several of the screws had pulled out, and all but one track crumpled with the top hanger not doing anything, and one track not being damaged. The fact that it had held this load for about 2 years - if not a bit more - without failing before is... a bit surprising. For various safety reasons (couldn't access things like the breaker box anymore), we needed to clean it up and get storage back in place. We removed their shelving, and replaced it with what I could get on short notice - John Sterling HEAVYWEIGHT. We installed 3 tracks along with the hanger, and installed both the hanger and each track with GRK #10 x 2 1/2" cabinet screws - they engage roughly to a depth of 1 3/4", and there are significantly more of them. I was a bit limited in what I could do as I'm also recovering from shoulder surgery. Presently, only the lower three shelves have anything on them, and what's on them isn't particularly heavy - no more than a few hundred lbs total. The issue I'm running into is that I don't actually know how to calculate what the pullout force of the shelving actually is when loaded, and thus don't know what pullout strength is required. I also am well aware that the weak point is the wood itself, since it will give well before the screws. My intent was to put the largest pieces of wood - mostly red oak and some long pieces of fir - on the top shelf, since it would extend a bit too far to be lower, and being on the top shelf would put it above my head so I wouldn't walk into it. However... I'm pretty sure that this also puts the greatest pullout load on the system, and those are also the heaviest pieces of wood. I don't believe that it's more than ~200lbs that will be on that shelf, but I haven't weighed these (nor am I equipped to). I really just don't want it to collapse again, and certainly not while we're there (I don't think it would have killed us, but it wouldn't have been pleasant). So, I'm looking for a bit of advice on this and how to approach it. I usually tend to overbuild things dramatically, but I don't actually know enough specifics about this to be confident in my approach at all, and I've already dealt with it collapsing once... and I'm a pretty neurotic person. submitted by /u/Ameisen to r/Carpentry [link] [comments]

First before most ( yes my wife has a lot of clothes) At first I thought it was the screws not having any wall anchors to support them but shortly afterwards I kinda just loosen up again. We don’t have any more room to store clothes so I’m making the most of it. But I’m just delaying the inevitable so I need tips on how to secure this closet rack so that it’s firm into the wall but the wall is also thin from what I can hear. Any thoughts or opinions. Also it’s only held up by two metal thingies and a pole in which I believe is inside those wooden slabs. The white board is easy to take off. I appreciate all and any help as we are a young couple living together submitted by /u/EnjuAtCostco to r/drywall [link] [comments]