Rolling Tool Box

... and ensure the "Quick Format" box is checked. Use a Different... by rolling back to a slightly older, more stable version of the tool (like... the internal installation of the tool, which modifies the system's boot ...

... to think outside of the box. Faced with this problem of ... sends to Kamutoke. His Cursed Tool. Seeing three columns of shadows ... of Vows into his Cursed Tool and then just throwing it ... Genbu's Domain opens, Sukuna's Cursed Tool recognises that it has lost ... Genbu's Domain opens, Sukuna's Cursed Tool sends a bolt of lightning ... and immediately bounces back up, rolling backward a moment before Suzaku's ...

..., before a sword, the first tool of self-defense pressed into her... Grimm as a trap and tool before. What would happen if... to teaching. As an external tool, it had its place, but... the padlock to the grimy box freezer against the wall, and... her torso into the ice box. Shocked, Weiss could only stare... fingers into a fist, knuckles rolling on the plastic of their ...

... December. I picked up a rolling tool box, and evaluated different "realistic" brands... went with a Yukon brand tool chest from HB because the...

... HF and examined closely the rolling tool cart (I think it is... thicker than the equivalent Snap-On rolling cart. This really surprised me... do not see the Snap-On rolling cart being 5 times better... double or triple bay bottom box. There are exceptions. I think...

... reasonable sized tool box with decent drawer quality and smooth rolling sliders with...

Hey everyone, I’ve been working on something for the past few months and wanted to finally share it here. It started out of frustration with existing development timers—I messed up a few rolls myself, and most tools felt incomplete or not really built for how I shoot and develop. I wanted something simpler and more reliable. While building that, I realized tracking rolls and managing film inventory was just as annoying—forgetting what’s loaded in which camera, losing track if I don’t shoot regularly, opening boxes just to check stock… I’m sure many of you can relate. So I decided to combine everything into one place. I had to start from scratch, learn as I went, and slowly shape it into something actually usable. It took longer than expected, but I finally feel ready to share it. 👉 https://www.milesonfilm.com It’s not a traditional app (no downloads needed). Just open the link and use it. If you like it, you can add it to your home screen and use it like an app. Would genuinely love for you all to try it out and share feedback—what works, what doesn’t, and what you’d want to see next. I already have a few more ideas planned. Thanks 🙌 submitted by /u/Milesonfilm2024 to r/AnalogCommunity [link] [comments]

I’m not a tradesman so I’m not rolling a large base of pack outs every day. Love the drawer design for ease of access though I don’t imagine stacking more than one extra Packout drawer system. Still appreciate the design of the drawer. I’m currently torn between which to get since I should really be practical and get the box and use the $75 saved for some smaller Packout organizers. That honestly would be enough for my current set of tools. Anyone want to sway me one way or another. I see most people here really need the system and my use case is waaaayyy lighter. submitted by /u/ImSorryImSoFat to r/Packout [link] [comments]

I got this 3d printed tool box and I installed a plug in the box so I can swap batteries without having to take the body off. I also had to add latch to keep the box shut In case I roll it lol. submitted by /u/programmerOfLife to r/crawling [link] [comments]

Il start off by saying as a child I would build really complex Lego’s and airfix models the last time I touched an airfix model was when I was 13, it’s a 1:24 scale spitfire with electric motor. My paint jobs were shit but it is what it is, and it’s probably why I jumped straight into this. I’m not saying mine is the best but I’m damn happy with it, and feels good to reconnect with a past hobby. I didn’t do any painting either only some markers panel lining water decals and lots of top coat! Also if anyone knows where I can get a good display case let me know thank you! I’m going to include all the tools I purchased for this because I think if any novice wants to get into this it’s perfectly ok to start here and better to know total cost to achieve this result than doing what I did which is thinking it would only cost me what I paid plus some minor tools. The build was extensive. I really enjoyed the details of building the inner frames. It’s a really therapeutic process too. Finding the runner, the. Cutting the part off, sanding it making sure it’s good before placing and snapping to fit. Organisation is key also. Once I got to the amour stage I got aluminium trays and cut each body part into a dedicated tray. Left leg and another one for right leg ect. The reason I did this was that after I did the water slides I would be able to get a body part topcoateded and the. Place back into the same box and repeat. So I would know what each part is and where it belongs. Once all the pieces were sanded and clean I went and rescribed the panel lines to make deeper grooves. I did not add new lines but I did purchase panel line tape to make sure I didn’t get scratches (I had scratches) I used the pour type panel line markers and 70iso alcohol with a cotton bud to clean the excess. I would say the scribing was annoying only when coming to oddly angled lines and cleaning the crud is not easy. However cleaning the ink was way worse as too much liquid and your ink goes and not enough but poor cleaning technique and the ink goes too. Take your time sanding with the Gunprimer raser and also use the grey sanding stick and white where needs be. The grey I used 2 sticks in my build and also the sandloop flex 800 grit on the red shield part as it comes kinda scratched and with injection squiggly thingy so if you sand it with the 800 grit then go over with the grey balance stick then the white stick use the Gunprimer cloth and then go over with the grey stick again dust all the parts and cloth it again you’ll be good to go! That brings me to things I did not like. DECALS! Man they were a pain in the ass to align must use a toothpick to align after taking out of water with tweezers. I found that certain decals would move around even when rolling your cotton ear swab thingy (not all the time but enough that it would happen multiple times per section. It’s kinda hard to align decals that need “connect” to another side or look uniform across opposite sides but getting as close as possible to perfect is good and an accomplishment. Also do yourself a favour and order two decal sheets. Keep in mind sometimes using the mr mark setter or softener will make your ink leak or disappear even if it has been days so less is more! Also what is great with the extra decal sheets is you can add extra decals to your gundam I added decals onto his sword gun and left leg since it felt iquite empty. That said by far the worse the worst part was using topcoat. Few things I will say. I did not have a spray booth. I used a cardboard box I had the GSI Cross GT90 clips and sprayed each part in that cardboard box. My doors or windows were not open due to the cold weather in london I had the heating on and my kitchens extractor fan on that was too far away to do anything. My god does this thing go everywhere the dust will spread across your house even if you’re spraying in a box. Like I said I’m new to spraying I also did not think it would be so bad or that I would end up creating a dust sandstorm. If i was to spray again I would get one of those fancy boxes with a fan that sucks all the air out too. So a few things about spraying. You will need more than 36 clips, I only bought one pack and while I was good to go for each leg. If you leave one part drying for 12h and want to spray another part you won’t have enough clips for all the parts you need like an extra 5 clips or so. Just get two packs. Find a place to put those sticks. I just shoved them through another box to keep them upright. Second point. I highly highly recommend you get the MR TOPCOAT PREMIUM MATT UV! Firstly the uv protection is great but the premium Matt is wayy smoother and cleaner looking than normal Matt and the premium Matt. This can is worth the price. And thirdly get more bottles than you think you need. I had originally purchased two cans… then I purchased 4cans… then I purchased an extra can.. to only realise that’s not enough and it’s the weekend. Thankfully there was a gentleman selling on eBay who was 45mins by car. Drove to him and purchased two more cans only to get to the last body part and there was not enough spray. I drove to him the next day once more to purchase another can. And I still think I could have purchased one more to be safe as that did run out. So in total 10 cans+1 small can… when spraying it’s toxic and kn95 masks are useless. Also definitely do a light coat first make sure it’s wet but not that wet and those dots disappear also blow on parts and dust them off before spraying. Any dust will stick to the part permanently unless you scratch it out! After 15 min passes usually it will take you longer to spray each section, you can then spray once again slower and more wet than before. This is your final layer. Leave to dry 12h plus. Important to note. Warm can first spray away from part before onto part and a distance of 20cm or so. Second pass can be closer but not that much or you will get forsting. I unfortunately had on a few parts. To fix this mistake I waited 12h purchased a small can of premium topcoat glossy sprayed it and let it cure. After it dissolved some of the frost I went over it with matt twice or 3 times depending on how it felt to touch. The top coat is a game changer makes the biggest difference and it takes your toy from looking like a toy to a display piece and custom. Using the premium gloss can I had I decided to spray only the guns sight finder in it. Covering any internal parts either yellow tape. Before attaching each part onto his body I sort of soft placed parts to see what clips are visible as there are clip holes visible from the outer armour. These I used a thicker GM marker in gold silver or gun metal for accent lining. Really simple go over that section with said marker like a sharpie and wait to dry 45 mins and place part ontop. What is left is like bolt parts. And pegs that go through colour. I did mostly gold his body. Some areas I forgot to do and had already placed body panels on him. These will nap if you are not careful. Make sure you test before fully securing! Anyway build enjoy and display. Also get the Gunprimer gate remover gate with the raser filer plus god hands these are a must. List of parts. I’m not including all the shipping but for all the items from OEShop I paid £13.47 and the ones where I paid a lot to have next day I’ve included it in the list. A huge thank you to OEShop. You made purchasing tools I knew nothing about simple. Your prices are the best and the customer service is above and beyond. Thank you for holding items and not sending things out so that I could add more to my order later on and save on shipping costs. You guys are great. Tamiya cutting mat A3 - £17.93 OEShop Tamiya 87066 Modelling Brush - £4.50 OEShop Tamiya 74093 Nipper - £12.99 OEShop Gunprimer gate remover set - £44.99 OEShop Gunprimer dust brush stick - £7.99 OEShop Gunprimer balancer white pack- £5.49 OEShop Gunprimer balancer gray pack - £5.49 OEShop Gunprimer sandloop flex 800 grit - £6.50 OEShop DSPIAE PT-TH PRO "WING" Tungsten Steel Broach 0.15mm (mainly use this) - £17.99 OEShop DSPIAE PT-TH PRO "WING" 0.2mm- £17.99 OEShop DSPIAE PT-TH PRO "WING" 0.5mm- £17.99 OEShop DAPIAE PT-TH pen holder - £9.99 OEShop DSPIAE CG Adhesive Backed Tape Measure with Hard Edges 30m 5mm + 2mm - £5.98 OEShop DSPIAE MT Washi Masking 20mm - £2.99 OEShop DSPIAE BOX Storage Box set 2+M1- £4.28 OEShop Bandai part separator - £3.99 OEShop GSI Mr.Hobby GM303 250 marker - £2.99 OEShop GSI Mr.Hobby GM301 250 marker - £3.49 OEShop GSI Mr.Hobby GM302 250 marker - £4.99 OEShop GSI Mr.Hobby XGM05 marker - £3.49 OEShop (gunmetal used only for under feet in my build) GSI Mr.Hobby GM04 250 marker - £2.99 OEShop (used for all gold detailing! Great marker) GSI Mr.Hobby GM05 250 marker - £2.99 OEShop (Used for all silver detailing) GSI Mr.Hobby GM12 250 marker - £ 2.99 OEShop (Did not use) GSI Mr.Hobby GM300P 250 eraser - £3.49 OEShop (Didn’t use much) GSI Mr Mark Setter - £4.85 OEShop GSI Mr Mark Softer - £4.85 OEShop GSI Mr almighty clip single clip type- £11.75 OEShop Mr White Putty R-P-123 low viscosity- £8.94 Jadlam EVO E-pg20 (uv) rx78 PGU decal- £4.48 x2 OEShop ChemLab isopropanol Alc 70% - £5.90 Amazon Godhand nipper 5.0 SPN120 - £39.99 Amazon (now being sold for 50 ish) Creahaus 12.5in 3 layer storage box £20.99 Amazon Mr Hobby B-604 Aqueous premium top coat matt smooth clear uv cut 170ml - £16.95 x2 (25% off on orders on two and above) so paid £25.44 - Jadlam Mr Hobby B-604 Matt x2 - £33.59 (paid extra for next day delivery so should have been £26.60) - hobby workshop Mr Hobby B-604 Matt x2 - £26.60 total - hobby workshop (added to previous order so shipping included on other order) Mr Hobby B-604 Matt -£13.30 - Hobby workshop Mr Hobby B-601 topcoat premium glossy 88ml - £10.99 - hobby workshop - total £31.28 Mr hobby b604 Matt - £13.30 x 3 total £39.90 - eBay seller “model-gear” (thank you you’re a life saver) if you have to get these cans please purchase from him. Great person. PGU RX78-2 Gundam set sealed - £229.50 - eBay seller. Total 713.52. submitted by /u/Particular_Lawyer_86 to r/Gunpla [link] [comments]

I probably go “poop” atleast 5 times a day for 30min. The rest of my day consists of, walking back and forth, talking with people. Going to the office and talking with people (talking about nothing work related) The 10% of my job where I actually HAVE to do something is actually super essential. Most days I wonder “why am I even here? Can’t they just call me in when they need something?” ( I am a robotics and hydraulic mechanic/programmer for a factory) they only time I’m needed is when something breaks or goes wrong, yet I’m here for 8 hours a day 5 days a week. I’m not complaining, but I’m just wondering, is this normal? Does anyone else have this experience? (I’m currently at work in the bathroom “pooping”) To note- in my 5 years here, of me doing this consistently everyday, nobody has ever, not even once, mentioned anything about my bathroom time, noticed I was gone too long, nothing. Infact I’ve received multiple raises, been told I’ve been doing a good job, but in reality, I pretty much have no idea what I’m doing here. Edit- I see a lot of people saying that this is an office job. I just want to clear the air and say it is not an office job I walk into work into a Walmart sized open floor factory, with giant machines and robots making parts 24/7. I have a big tool box that rolls around, and a laptop inside. When I say that I go to the office to talk to people, I mean the other people that have offices. I wish I had an office. I wish I was legitimately busy so I could go home feeling like I accomplished something, but I’m at a point in my life where I’ve reached stability and the job pays the bills and provides for my family and 401k building I can’t really jump ship and start over somewhere else. And for what it’s worth, I always dreamed of being an Astronomer or Marine Biologist. Instead I fix machines that make garbage cans. Life and some stupid irreversible decisions took me on a path and here I am, that’s why I made this post, because I feel like my job lacks meaning, I’m bored out of my mind, everyone is “so proud” of me for turning my life around and getting a decent job, but I’m not proud of myself, because what I’m doing has no sense of wonder or meaning, just making more garbage cans for corporations. submitted by /u/ArcBlamer to r/antiwork [link] [comments]

I live in an apartment with rules preventing me from working on my car there. My parents live close by, so I pack up my tools and work on vehicles in their driveway. I bring several Dewalt Toughsystem drawer boxes, and a couple HFT free buckets. One bucket is always ready to go with expendibles, my rubber gloves, shop rags, blue paper towels, zip ties, wheel chocks, pinch weld adapters, PB Blaster, and brake cleaner. The second bucket is usually filled with tools from other drawers I'm not bringing, I have a 14 tool roll I fill with pliers galore, also a little zipper case full of trim tools, and the magnetic mat all fit with the lid on. Depending on the task being tackled, a third bucket may join, such as if I'm draining the coolant. Who else uses their free buckets for hauling around their tools? submitted by /u/skingld to r/harborfreight [link] [comments]